Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
it?

In article >,
(Robert M. Gary) wrote:

> Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> it?

Just get some "paint thinner" at your local Home Depot and spray down
your engine, then wipe it down with a shop towel. Be sure not to have
any flame source around when you do this.

I use CRC Lectra Clean. It's great. About $6 a can, but it dries almost
instantly, leaves no residue and according to the label has no flash point,
though I wouldn't use it on a hot engine. Goes a long ways, too. I bought 3
cans when my engine was real greasy and only used 2, but it was spotless.
There's enough pressure and one of those little straw type inserts to reall
get it where you want it.

If you have a compressor, get a cleaner nozzle (the kind with a bottle or
pickup tube) and use paint thinner. Also works great.

My A&P suggested cleaning the engine with one of these and then powdering
the engine around the suspected leak area, fly it for a while adn look for
the leak in the powder. I didn't need to do this to find my leak, but it
sounds good.

mike regish

"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
om...
> Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> it?

"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
om...
> [...] He said to
> use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> it?

To expand on the existing replies: please make sure you are washing the
engine at a properly designed wash area, where the run-off is contained and
disposed of properly.

If you're worried about water getting into various components, you might
consider using duct tape and possibly some plastic bags/wrap/whatever to
seal things up. Make sure you log where you closed something up, and when
you're done, double-check and triple-check to make sure you removed all of
the coverings you added before washing.

Just be gentle with the water (with engine cleaner, it shouldn't take a lot
of pressure to actually rinse things off), careful where you point the hose,
and you should be fine.

Pete

There are nonflamable solvent availible that evaporate completely and you
can get a air fitting that draws small amounts of the solvent and sprays it
with a lot of air. It gets things clean quickly and doesn't make much mess.
The mechanics where I get my maitenance done use rubbing alchohol in a spray
bottle. It cuts oil well and drys quickly.

Mike
MU-2


"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
om...
> Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> it?

Thanks! That sounds like the way to go!
-Robert

"mike regish" > wrote in message news:<GQQwb.226134$mZ5.1711551@attbi_s54>...
> I use CRC Lectra Clean. It's great. About $6 a can, but it dries almost
> instantly, leaves no residue and according to the label has no flash point,
> though I wouldn't use it on a hot engine. Goes a long ways, too. I bought 3
> cans when my engine was real greasy and only used 2, but it was spotless.
> There's enough pressure and one of those little straw type inserts to reall
> get it where you want it.
>
> If you have a compressor, get a cleaner nozzle (the kind with a bottle or
> pickup tube) and use paint thinner. Also works great.
>

"Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
om...
> Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> it?

I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly flammable
and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner used.

Dry cleaning solvent or white spirit is an approved Mil spec cleaner and
won't damage paint, and it's relatively cheap. Put it in an atomiser bottle
on jet setting and have an old paint brush ready for stubborn areas, then
hose off.

Scet.

"Scet" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
> om...
> > Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> > Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> > where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> > use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> > guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> > I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> > it?
>
> I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly flammable
> and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner used.
>> Scet.
>
>
Paint thinner (mineral spirits) will NOT damage paint. It is flamable, but
unless atomized, it is not highly flamable.
--
Jim in NC

Scet wrote:
>
> I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly flammable
> and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner used.

Paint thinner in the U.S. is also called "mineral spirits". It's no more
flamable than kerosene (which you call "white spirit"), is less oily, and will
definitely NOT harm any paint that's likely to be on an aircraft.

George Patterson
Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they really
hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy lifting".

"Scet" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
> om...
> > Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> > Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> > where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> > use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> > guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> > I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> > it?
>
> I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly flammable
> and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner used.

Paint thinner is mineral spirits and is nearly if not the same as Stoddard
solvent. It WILL NOT damage paint. Flammability is not an issue unless you
spray it into an open flame. It is a very good low cost solvent available
almost anywhere.


> Dry cleaning solvent or white spirit is an approved Mil spec cleaner and
> won't damage paint, and it's relatively cheap. Put it in an atomiser
bottle
> on jet setting and have an old paint brush ready for stubborn areas, then
> hose off.
>
> Scet.
>
>

Maybe I'm just getting confused by the global nature of the discussion, but
I'm seeing a few things that are so obvious on their face that I felt I
should jump in...

Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product. It's
purpose is just as you would surmise from it's name: it is used to thin
paint to provide the proper viscosity for spraying or brushing. And it's
also used for cleaning brushes, spray nozzles, paint cups and similar items
after use. It does a really dandy job of removing paint! And you use
different paint thinners for different paint types. So you can't really make
too many generic comments about whether it will remove paint or it's
flammability.

Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol can.
You spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, then hose it off with a
moderate stream. I imagine this is the type of product your mechanic was
referring to. And if Gunk is not available worldwide, I'm sure your local
auto parts and supplies dealer carries something similar.

Sorry to but in, but when I saw a reference to paint thinner not removing
paint I just couldn't stay out of the chat...

"G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Scet wrote:
> >
> > I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly
flammable
> > and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner used.
>
> Paint thinner in the U.S. is also called "mineral spirits". It's no more
> flamable than kerosene (which you call "white spirit"), is less oily, and
will
> definitely NOT harm any paint that's likely to be on an aircraft.
>
> George Patterson
> Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they
really
> hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy
lifting".

Bill Denton wrote:
>
> Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product.

No, what is sold as "paint thinner" is a specific product also known as "mineral
spirits". It will NOT damage cured auto/aircraft paint. If you go to an auto
paint store, you can buy reducers used to thin specific paints, but those are
not commonly sold in a container labeled "paint thinner". If you go to just
about any other type of paint or hardware store and ask for paint thinner, they
will sell you mineral spirits.

> Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
> with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol can.

Many people use this. Pete Kupper, who ran the maintenance shop at Kupper
airport until a few years ago, bought mineral spirits in 55 gallon drums for
use cleaning engines and other parts.

George Patterson
Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they really
hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy lifting".

"Bill Denton" > wrote in message
...
> Maybe I'm just getting confused by the global nature of the discussion,
but
> I'm seeing a few things that are so obvious on their face that I felt I
> should jump in...
>
> Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product.
It's
> purpose is just as you would surmise from it's name: it is used to thin
> paint to provide the proper viscosity for spraying or brushing. And it's
> also used for cleaning brushes, spray nozzles, paint cups and similar
items
> after use. It does a really dandy job of removing paint! And you use
> different paint thinners for different paint types. So you can't really
make
> too many generic comments about whether it will remove paint or it's
> flammability.
>
> Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
> with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol can.
> You spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, then hose it off with a
> moderate stream. I imagine this is the type of product your mechanic was
> referring to. And if Gunk is not available worldwide, I'm sure your local
> auto parts and supplies dealer carries something similar.
>
> Sorry to but in, but when I saw a reference to paint thinner not removing
> paint I just couldn't stay out of the chat...
>

You still need to get your facts straight. I challenge you to go into any
retail outlet, and find anything labeled paint thinner, that is not pure
mineral spirits. It won't happen.

MINERAL SPIRITS WILL NOT REMOVE CURED PAINT! It will remove WET (not
cured) enamels, oils, alkalydes, and a few other types.Do not confuse paint
thinner with paint stripper, or remover. They have things like toluene,
MEK, and various other nasties.

Since you are so sure about this, and had to jump into the chat, perhaps you
would like to share your credentials, so we will all know how you are
qualified to refute what is being shared.

I, by the way, have held a general contracting license, and paint much of
what I build. I also spray many types of finish on cabinet work, have
sprayed automobiles, with paint as nasty as to need constant forced fresh
air supply for the painter (me).

Your turn.

Tell us where you can get this paint thinner that removes paint, also.
--
Jim in NC

"G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Bill Denton wrote:
> >
> > Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product.
>
> No, what is sold as "paint thinner" is a specific product also known as
"mineral
> spirits". It will NOT damage cured auto/aircraft paint. If you go to an
auto
> paint store, you can buy reducers used to thin specific paints, but those
are
> not commonly sold in a container labeled "paint thinner". If you go to
just
> about any other type of paint or hardware store and ask for paint thinner,
they
> will sell you mineral spirits.
>
> > Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
> > with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol
can.
>
> Many people use this. Pete Kupper, who ran the maintenance shop at Kupper
> airport until a few years ago, bought mineral spirits in 55 gallon drums
for
> use cleaning engines and other parts.
>
> George Patterson
> Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they
really
> hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy
lifting".

George , kerosene in Australia is called kerosene.

We are talking aircraft here George, if we want paint thinner for our
aircraft why are we going into a hardware store? In the very least I thought
we would be going into an automotive paint supplier, and if you asked for
paint thinner there you would not be given mineral spirits.

"Bill Denton" > wrote in message
...
> Maybe I'm just getting confused by the global nature of the discussion,
but
> I'm seeing a few things that are so obvious on their face that I felt I
> should jump in...
>
> Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product.
It's
> purpose is just as you would surmise from it's name: it is used to thin
> paint to provide the proper viscosity for spraying or brushing. And it's
> also used for cleaning brushes, spray nozzles, paint cups and similar
items
> after use. It does a really dandy job of removing paint! And you use
> different paint thinners for different paint types. So you can't really
make
> too many generic comments about whether it will remove paint or it's
> flammability.
>
> Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
> with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol can.
> You spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, then hose it off with a
> moderate stream. I imagine this is the type of product your mechanic was
> referring to. And if Gunk is not available worldwide, I'm sure your local
> auto parts and supplies dealer carries something similar.
>
> Sorry to but in, but when I saw a reference to paint thinner not removing
> paint I just couldn't stay out of the chat...
>
> "G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
> ...

Bill, thanks for your input, I did say "will remove paint dependent on the
type of thinner used", but as we're talking aviation or automotive thinner,
as I thought due to the nature of our newsgroups interest, then I didn't
think we would be discussing any paint thinners that would be used in
household paint.
We also use paint thinner for thinning paint and cleaning brushes etc.

> >
> >
> > Scet wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly
> flammable
> > > and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner
used.
> >
> > Paint thinner in the U.S. is also called "mineral spirits". It's no more
> > flamable than kerosene (which you call "white spirit"), is less oily,
and
> will
> > definitely NOT harm any paint that's likely to be on an aircraft.
> >
> > George Patterson
> > Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they
> really
> > hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy
> lifting".
>
>

"Scet" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Robert M. Gary" > wrote in message
> om...
> > Looks like I've got an oil leak in my 550 hr SFNEW IO-360-A3B6
> > Lycoming engine. My mechanic says I should clean the engine and see
> > where its coming from. I feel strange cleaning the engine. He said to
> > use an automotive engine cleaner and then wash it off right away. I
> > guess its not different than flying through a level 5 rain shower but
> > I can't see spraying my mags down with a hose. How do most of you do
> > it?
>
> I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly flammable
> and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner used.
>
> Dry cleaning solvent or white spirit is an approved Mil spec cleaner and
> won't damage paint, and it's relatively cheap. Put it in an atomiser
bottle
> on jet setting and have an old paint brush ready for stubborn areas, then
> hose off.
>
> Scet.

Sorry guys, in Australia paint thinner WILL remove paint and this paint
thinner is funnily enough used to THIN paint which in turn REDUCES the
viscosity.
If you get some acylic lacquer thinner and tip it on your CURED paint it
WILL remove it.
So what I can gather is that your paint thinner is mineral spirits or what
we call mineral turps.
We use this for house and general painting jobs.

In general discussion, when we talk about thinners, then the thinners used
in that particular industry is the one being discussed.

So it seems there are differences in terminology, between the US and
Australia (funny that) that can lead to some confusion.

Sorry if I put some folks off here; I was only trying to offer suggestions.

My thought was that someone who was not familiary with commercial engine
cleaning products might not be aware of the varying properties of what is
generically known as "paint thinner".

Over the years I have used the thinner for oil-based house paints, which I
believe was mineral spirits. I have also used enamel thinner and lacquer
thinner. And I have heard all of these referred to as "paint thinner" or
just plain "thinner".

And please remember that anyone who considers my advice to be worthless is
free to avoid using it.

"Morgans" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Bill Denton" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Maybe I'm just getting confused by the global nature of the discussion,
> but
> > I'm seeing a few things that are so obvious on their face that I felt I
> > should jump in...
> >
> > Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product.
> It's
> > purpose is just as you would surmise from it's name: it is used to thin
> > paint to provide the proper viscosity for spraying or brushing. And it's
> > also used for cleaning brushes, spray nozzles, paint cups and similar
> items
> > after use. It does a really dandy job of removing paint! And you use
> > different paint thinners for different paint types. So you can't really
> make
> > too many generic comments about whether it will remove paint or it's
> > flammability.
> >
> > Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
> > with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol
can.
> > You spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, then hose it off with a
> > moderate stream. I imagine this is the type of product your mechanic was
> > referring to. And if Gunk is not available worldwide, I'm sure your
local
> > auto parts and supplies dealer carries something similar.
> >
> > Sorry to but in, but when I saw a reference to paint thinner not
removing
> > paint I just couldn't stay out of the chat...
> >
>
> You still need to get your facts straight. I challenge you to go into any
> retail outlet, and find anything labeled paint thinner, that is not pure
> mineral spirits. It won't happen.
>
> MINERAL SPIRITS WILL NOT REMOVE CURED PAINT! It will remove WET (not
> cured) enamels, oils, alkalydes, and a few other types.Do not confuse
paint
> thinner with paint stripper, or remover. They have things like toluene,
> MEK, and various other nasties.
>
> Since you are so sure about this, and had to jump into the chat, perhaps
you
> would like to share your credentials, so we will all know how you are
> qualified to refute what is being shared.
>
> I, by the way, have held a general contracting license, and paint much of
> what I build. I also spray many types of finish on cabinet work, have
> sprayed automobiles, with paint as nasty as to need constant forced fresh
> air supply for the painter (me).
>
> Your turn.
>
> Tell us where you can get this paint thinner that removes paint, also.
> --
> Jim in NC

Hi Jim, I think you were referring to Bill, but I'll jump in if I may.
I'm a panel beater and spray painter licensed with the Motor Vehicle Repair
Industry Council, here in Australia
and am also a member of the Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers -
Spray Painting Division, so I guess by saying that I'm saying I have a bit
of an idea about painting.

If I was getting some paint for, let's say an aircraft, I wouldn't go into
any retail outlet now would I? And walking into an automotive paint supplier
to get some paint for your aircraft, (they may or may not have zinc chromate
primer, depending on location) and asking for some thinner will not get you
mineral spirits.
Of course you would have to stipulate the type of thinner you wanted, be it
2Pak, acrylic lacquer etc but being an aircraft and wanting a nice gloss off
the gun I would be asking for 2Pak, which would be the nasty paint you were
referring to. It contains icocyanites (SP?) which are readily absorbed by
the skin.
The point I am trying to make here Jim is, when you are talking shop, people
generally think along the lines of the products that are used in that
industry and to me saying you were cleaning your aircraft engine down with
thinner is a bad thing and brings up thoughts of badly damaged paint, not to
mention any rubber or plastics that have been affected.

The fact that you have a general contracting contracting license says to me
that you expertise lies within an area that would use paints that require
mineral turps as a thinner and would therefore refer to mineral turps when
discussing thinners. On the same token Jim, I bet you know more about
mineral turps, it's uses and applications than what I would.

Scet



>
>

You folks do realize, don't you, that if you don't snip the preceding message
that we just bypass any of your pearls of wisdom.

Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

Scet wrote:
>
> We are talking aircraft here George, if we want paint thinner for our
> aircraft why are we going into a hardware store? In the very least I thought
> we would be going into an automotive paint supplier, and if you asked for
> paint thinner there you would not be given mineral spirits.

If you go to an auto paint store and ask for paint thinner, you will get some
very odd looks here. They will ask you what you mean, since you could be asking
for what is usually called "reducer" or you could be asking for what is usually
called "hardener". None of the ones I've shopped in sell "paint thinner", but
I do happen to have a can of "acrylic laquer reducer" downstairs.

The poster who first mentioned paint thinner was referring to using it as a
cleaning agent, and nobody with the sense God gave a goose would go to an auto
paint supply shop for that.

As far a "white spirit" is concerned, I ran into the term in a book on wood
finishing years ago and asked a gent from the Britain Isles what it was. He told
me that he thought "white spirit" is called kerosene over here. Since that does
not appear to be the case, can you tell me what it would be called over here?

George Patterson
Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they really
hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy lifting".

"Jim Weir" > wrote in message
...
> You folks do realize, don't you, that if you don't snip the preceding
message
> that we just bypass any of your pearls of wisdom.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

Seems to me that I snipped the message before the one I was replying to, and
most all of the one I left was relevant to what I was responding to.

Would you want me to snip every bit of the preceding message, Jim?

--
Jim in NC

"Scet" > wrote
>
> In general discussion, when we talk about thinners, then the thinners used
> in that particular industry is the one being discussed.
>
> So it seems there are differences in terminology, between the US and
> Australia (funny that) that can lead to some confusion.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Zactly. In the US, paint thinner is mineral spirits, no matter where you
get it. In an automotive type supplier, if you want to reduce the
viscosity, you ask for reducer, then specify the slow medium or fast
reducer. Ask for paint thinner at one of those places, and you will still
get mineral spirits, but they probably will not have it.

I did not realize that this was yet another example of terminology
differences.
--
Jim in NC

"Bill Denton" > wrote in message
...
> Maybe I'm just getting confused by the global nature of the discussion,
but
> I'm seeing a few things that are so obvious on their face that I felt I
> should jump in...
>
> Here in the US, paint thinner is not a product, it's a type of product.

Bunk! I defy you to purchase paint thinner that does not say it is mineral
spirits in small print. The other produces are not paint thinner. They are
reducers or other type thinners such as lacquer thinner.

It's
> purpose is just as you would surmise from it's name: it is used to thin
> paint to provide the proper viscosity for spraying or brushing. And it's
> also used for cleaning brushes, spray nozzles, paint cups and similar
items
> after use. It does a really dandy job of removing paint! And you use
> different paint thinners for different paint types. So you can't really
make
> too many generic comments about whether it will remove paint or it's
> flammability.
>
> Now, here is the obvious: here in the states we clean automobile engines
> with a product called "Gunk Engine Cleaner" which comes in an aerosol can.
> You spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes, then hose it off with a
> moderate stream. I imagine this is the type of product your mechanic was
> referring to. And if Gunk is not available worldwide, I'm sure your local
> auto parts and supplies dealer carries something similar.
>
> Sorry to but in, but when I saw a reference to paint thinner not removing
> paint I just couldn't stay out of the chat...
>
> "G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> >
> > Scet wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't think paint thinner is appropriate to use. It is highly
> flammable
> > > and will damage paint, obviously dependent on the type of thinner
used.
> >
> > Paint thinner in the U.S. is also called "mineral spirits". It's no more
> > flamable than kerosene (which you call "white spirit"), is less oily,
and
> will
> > definitely NOT harm any paint that's likely to be on an aircraft.
> >
> > George Patterson
> > Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they
> really
> > hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy
> lifting".
>
>

White spirit is a synthetic version of turpentine (or at least it's used
interchangeably with turps). It's used for cleaning off wet or recently
dried paint from things. It's a solvent and I think it can be used to
thin oil based paints, but not sure.

Paul

"G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
...
> As far a "white spirit" is concerned, I ran into the term in a book on
wood
> finishing years ago and asked a gent from the Britain Isles what it was.
He told
> me that he thought "white spirit" is called kerosene over here. Since that
does
> not appear to be the case, can you tell me what it would be called over
here?

Paul Sengupta wrote:
>
> White spirit is a synthetic version of turpentine (or at least it's used
> interchangeably with turps). It's used for cleaning off wet or recently
> dried paint from things. It's a solvent and I think it can be used to
> thin oil based paints, but not sure.

Thanks. Turpentine is used here for thinning and cleaning oil paints (as in the
stuff Rembrandt used), but little else. Not sure if I've ever seen a synthetic
version on the market. I think the real stuff comes from pine trees, of which
we have plenty.

George Patterson
Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they really
hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy lifting".

"G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
...
> Paul Sengupta wrote:
> >
> > White spirit is a synthetic version of turpentine (or at least it's
used
> > interchangeably with turps). It's used for cleaning off wet or recently
> > dried paint from things. It's a solvent and I think it can be used to
> > thin oil based paints, but not sure.
>
> Thanks. Turpentine is used here for thinning and cleaning oil paints (as
in the
> stuff Rembrandt used), but little else. Not sure if I've ever seen a
synthetic
> version on the market. I think the real stuff comes from pine trees, of
which
> we have plenty.

White Spirit may not be a synthetic version. Maybe I thought that
because it's sometimes labelled "Turpentine substitute".

http://www.tipking.com/Tips/publish/tip_475.shtml

So "mineral spirits" is the same?

Ah, been google-ing. From:
http://www.peg2003.org/hardwood_garden_furniture_uk.html
HARDWOOD GARDEN FURNITURE UK : Turpentine is
a derivative of pine oil which is the proper solvent for varnish.
Mineral spirits are a derivative of coal tar distillates and white
spirit pertains to naptha which is also a coal tar derivative but
containing benzene which may be banned in your country.

Other websites say it's the same thing, including:
http://www.inchem.org/documents/hsg/hsg/hsg103.htm
which says "mineral spirit" is a synonym for white spirit.

So I guess we can use it! :-)

Paul

Paul Sengupta wrote:
>
> So "mineral spirits" is the same?

Nope. Completely different smell. It's used primarily here to thin oil-based
house paints and for cleaning stuff. It's an oilier substance than naptha,
which makes naptha better for cleaning applications that must be oil free. So
I used turpentine for oil painting (back when I did such things), I use mineral
spirits for paintbrush cleanup and cleanup of car and aircraft parts, and naptha
to clean items I'm preparing to paint.

I haven't found much on how they're made or what the chemical differences are,
but I did find a medical dictionary which lists them as different substances
and prescribes different treatments for cases of poisoning. That site is
http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency

As others have pointed out, mineral spirits is also called "Stoddard's Solvent".

George Patterson
Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they really
hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy lifting".

"G.R. Patterson III" wrote:
>
> Paul Sengupta wrote:
> >
> > So "mineral spirits" is the same?


Many (too) many years ago, we used a mix of Gunk and
Kerosene;
about 1 part Gunk to 5 parts Kerosene. Didn't have
EPA in
that time so there wasn't a restriction on disposal of
the
cleaning mixture and the residue from the cleaning.

We would spray the engine with the cleaning mix, leave
set 15
to 20 minutes then wash the engine down with straight
water.


Lou.

"Lou Ramsay" > wrote in message
...
> "G.R. Patterson III" wrote:


> cleaning mixture and the residue from the cleaning.
>
> We would spray the engine with the cleaning mix, leave
> set 15
> to 20 minutes then wash the engine down with straight
> water.
>

All washed down the drains into local rivers etc.:-(
--
---
Cheers,
Jonathan Lowe.
/
don't bother me with insignificiant nonsence such as spelling,
I don't care if it spelt properly
/
Sometimes I fly and sometimes I just dream about it.
:-)


>
> Lou.

Model Flyer wrote:
>
> "Lou Ramsay" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "G.R. Patterson III" wrote:
>
> > cleaning mixture and the residue from the cleaning.
> >
> > We would spray the engine with the cleaning mix, leave
> > set 15
> > to 20 minutes then wash the engine down with straight
> > water.
> >

I did not say this.

George Patterson
Some people think they hear a call to the priesthood when what they really
hear is a tiny voice whispering "It's indoor work with no heavy lifting".