Canopy Care

[Guy[_7_]]

Have not seen this topic for some time. How to care for our expensive
canopies.
I use the Mequiar's products: for scratches #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner,
for very fine scratches #10 Clear Plastic Polish, and for daily care
#18 Clear Plastic Detailer.

What about the rest of you? Lots of new products to clean and care
for automotice clear plastic headlight covers and such.

Guy

[Doug Hoffman[_3_]]

On Mar 23, 12:27*am, Guy > wrote:
> Have not seen this topic for some time. *How to care for our expensive
> canopies.
> I use the Mequiar's products: for scratches #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner,
> for very fine scratches #10 Clear Plastic Polish, and for daily care
> #18 Clear Plastic Detailer.
>
> What about the rest of you? *Lots of new products to clean and care
> for automotice clear plastic headlight covers and such.

Maybe not what you were looking for but I once was able to take a very
old, scratched, hazy HP-14 center canopy and make it look like new
with a Micro-Mesh kit. I was amazed. Just follow the instructions.
2 hours of considerable elbow grease. Initially looks pretty scary
because you start with relatively coarse sandpaper. I guess this was
really canopy repair more than canopy care. FWIW

Regards,

-Doug

[November Bravo]

On Mar 23, 12:27*am, Guy > wrote:
> Have not seen this topic for some time. *How to care for our expensive
> canopies.
> I use the Mequiar's products: for scratches #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner,
> for very fine scratches #10 Clear Plastic Polish, and for daily care
> #18 Clear Plastic Detailer.
>
> What about the rest of you? *Lots of new products to clean and care
> for automotice clear plastic headlight covers and such.
>
> Guy

The advice I have been given is WATER, PLENTY OF WATER!!! When the
canopy gets marred with grease or fingerprints I first take the canopy
completely off, stand it on edge with the weight bearing portion on a
soft sponge and towel and let the hose run down the inside and outside
for quite some time. I get a new "Super Absorber" synthetic chamois
and wipe from front to back, avoiding swirling motions. If the canopy
is really clean with only a small smudge I use Plexus with a miracle
fabric cloth. I try not to clean the canopy on a daily basis for fear
of creating fine scratches that accumulate in number over time. I do
not routinely use a canopy cover simply to avoid scratching the
canopy. Do not use solvent near the canopy for fear of splashing. In
the Spring, avoid parking the glider near trees that are releasing
pollen as it sticks to the canopy. To recondition a canopy with many
scratches I have heard that Micro-Mesh is the treatment of choice.

Happy soaring this Spring,
John aka November Bravo

John aka November Bravo

[Grider Pirate]

On Mar 23, 6:08*am, November Bravo > wrote:
> On Mar 23, 12:27*am, Guy > wrote:
>
> > Have not seen this topic for some time. *How to care for our expensive
> > canopies.
> > I use the Mequiar's products: for scratches #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner,
> > for very fine scratches #10 Clear Plastic Polish, and for daily care
> > #18 Clear Plastic Detailer.
>
> > What about the rest of you? *Lots of new products to clean and care
> > for automotice clear plastic headlight covers and such.
>
> > Guy
>
> The advice I have been given is WATER, PLENTY OF WATER!!! *When the
> canopy gets marred with grease or fingerprints I first take the canopy
> completely off, stand it on edge with the weight bearing portion on a
> soft sponge and towel and let the hose run down the inside and outside
> for quite some time. *I get a new "Super Absorber" synthetic chamois
> and wipe from front to back, avoiding swirling motions. *If the canopy
> is really clean with only a small smudge I use Plexus with a miracle
> fabric cloth. *I try not to clean the canopy on a daily basis for fear
> of creating fine scratches that accumulate in number over time. *I do
> not routinely use a canopy cover simply to avoid scratching the
> canopy. *Do not use solvent near the canopy for fear of splashing. *In
> the Spring, avoid parking the glider near trees that are releasing
> pollen as it sticks to the canopy. *To recondition a canopy with many
> scratches I have heard that Micro-Mesh is the treatment of choice.
>
> Happy soaring this Spring,
> John aka November Bravo
>
> John aka November Bravo

I clean regularly with LOTS of water. About once every two years or
so, I spend several hours with a very fine plastic polish and many
cotton flannel polishing cloths to 'de-scratch'. For 'real' scratch
removal, I start with 600 grit, then 800, 1200, 2000, and buff with
plastic polish (Blue Magic, or Mothers). If ammonia is listed in the
ingrediants, (like Windex) or you smell even a whiff of it in a
cleaning product, don't use it on your acrylic.

[kirk.stant]

Water to get all dust, rock, animals off the plexi.

Plexus (or equivalent) before every flight, inside and out. Prevents
static that attracts dust. Makes canopy slick and easy to clean next
time.

Use a good cotton T-shirt or equivalent, wash often.

I never leave a canopy cover on for long (if tied down out west, put
the cover inside the cockpit, covering the instruments). Unless it's
blowing rocks, a cover does more damage than good, IMO.

After I clean the canopy (right after rigging), I put on a CLEAN
elastic cover to keep the cockpit cool until just before hookup (I
take it off from inside the cockpit while strapped in).

Kirk
66

[Guy[_7_]]

What about Pledge?

Guy

[Eric Greenwell]

kirk.stant wrote:
> Water to get all dust, rock, animals off the plexi.
>
> Plexus (or equivalent) before every flight, inside and out. Prevents
> static that attracts dust. Makes canopy slick and easy to clean next
> time.
>
> Use a good cotton T-shirt or equivalent, wash often.
>

My theory is dust doesn't cause scratches; it's rubbing dust that causes
scratches.

The glider is usually kept in the trailer, so it's protected from dust
except while flying, plus 2 hours for rigging/derigging. I don't clean
the outside of the canopy unless the dust becomes visible enough to see
in flight. That's 5 to 10 flights, typically. I don't clean the inside
of the canopy more than twice a year - it just doesn't get dusty.

To clean it, I remove the dust by dragging a soft, wet, folded rag along
the each side (left and right), front to back, just once. A fresh side
of the cloth is used for each drag. I then spray on Novus 1 or 210
plexiglas cleaner, and gently polish the canopy just enough to clear up
the spray.
> I never leave a canopy cover on for long (if tied down out west, put
> the cover inside the cockpit, covering the instruments). Unless it's
> blowing rocks, a cover does more damage than good, IMO.
>
I don't like to put a cover on, either, and I don't when it's in the
trailer. If I leave it tied down, I'll usually put the cover on it after
ensuring the canopy is dust free. At soaring camps, that might mean
cleaning it more often than when I put away in the trailer, as I do at
home. My cover is thick, very form fitting, has good elastic straps, and
does not move or flap in even strong winds.
> After I clean the canopy (right after rigging), I put on a CLEAN
> elastic cover to keep the cockpit cool until just before hookup (I
> take it off from inside the cockpit while strapped in).
>
Instead of putting cover of on it, I put a shade inside to cover the
cockpit area. I prop open the rear of the canopy with a "firm" foam
block (about 2" open) so air can circulate. It stays cool enough,
particularly if there is a breeze, but not quite as cool as a full cover
and some air circulation.

15 years later, the canopy has very few dust scratches. There are some
handling scratches, especially around the sliding vent.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me)

- "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl

- "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation Mar/2004" Much of what you need to know tinyurl.com/yfs7tnz

[Darryl Ramm]

On Mar 23, 9:08*pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> kirk.stant wrote:
> > Water to get all dust, rock, animals off the plexi.
>
> > Plexus (or equivalent) before every flight, inside and out. *Prevents
> > static that attracts dust. *Makes canopy slick and easy to clean next
> > time.
>
> > Use a good cotton T-shirt or equivalent, wash often.
>
> My theory is dust doesn't cause scratches; it's rubbing dust that causes
> scratches.
>
> The glider is usually kept in the trailer, so it's protected from dust
> except while flying, plus 2 hours for rigging/derigging. I don't clean
> the outside of the canopy unless the dust becomes visible enough to see
> in flight. That's 5 to 10 flights, typically. I don't clean the inside
> of the canopy more than twice a year - it just doesn't get dusty.
>
> To clean it, I remove the dust by dragging a soft, wet, folded rag along
> the each side (left and right), front to back, just once. A fresh side
> of the cloth is used for each drag. I then spray on Novus 1 or 210
> plexiglas cleaner, and gently polish the canopy just enough to clear up
> the spray.> I never leave a canopy cover on for long (if tied down out west, put
> > the cover inside the cockpit, covering the instruments). *Unless it's
> > blowing rocks, a cover does more damage than good, IMO.
>
> I don't like to put a cover on, either, and I don't when it's in the
> trailer. If I leave it tied down, I'll usually put the cover on it after
> ensuring the canopy is dust free. At soaring camps, that might mean
> cleaning it more often than when I put away in the trailer, as I do at
> home. My cover is thick, very form fitting, has good elastic straps, and
> does not move or flap in even strong winds.> After I clean the canopy (right after rigging), I put on a CLEAN
> > elastic cover to keep the cockpit cool until just before hookup (I
> > take it off from inside the cockpit while strapped in).
>
> Instead of putting cover of on it, I put a shade inside to cover the
> cockpit area. I prop open the rear of the canopy with a "firm" foam
> block (about 2" open) so air can circulate. It stays cool enough,
> particularly if there is a breeze, but not quite as cool as a full cover
> and some air circulation.
>
> 15 years later, the canopy has very few dust scratches. There are some
> handling scratches, especially around the sliding vent.
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me)
>
> - "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarmhttp://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl
>
> - "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation Mar/2004" Much of what you need to know tinyurl.com/yfs7tnz


I use a hose or carry a bucket of water and sponge to the glider and
eitehr hose down the canoy or squeeze a sponge above the canopy to wet
it. If needed I will gently wipe in a straight line with a clean bare
hand while appying the water. I'll then dry with a clean microfibre
towel again only using straight lines.

A wet sponge or dirty cotton material rubbed on a dusty canopy is just
wet sanding, but I see it done by others all the time.

If the inside is dusty I'll use a damp microfibre towel with straight
line wipes, turning the towel at each wipe to remove dust. Then small
spray with Plexus inside and out and wipe with clean microfiber
towels. The silicone in the Plexus really helps cut down static build-
up and dust attraction. Once dry and clean I put on a Franklin canopy
cap to keep the cockpit cool. That canopy cap is kept spotless clean
and only put on a canopy after the canopy has been cleaned and only
used briefly before flight (e.g. not overnight collecting dust in its
porous fabric) . Costco sells packs of microfiber towels and a usual
canopy cleaning I go through about four of them. They survive washing
well, but if I drop one in the dirt etc. I'll just toss it.

For the occasional fine scratch I'll use LP Aero acrylic polish (e.g.
I somehow scratched the inside of the canopy near the vent). Generally
avoid wiping the canopy unnecessarily.


Darryl

[Dave Nadler]

On Mar 24, 12:00*am, Guy > wrote:
> What about Pledge?
>
> Guy

Pledge has solvents in it that promote crazing.

Don't use it.

I had a flat-wrap canopy literally explode when
someone tried to clean it with Pledge. Quite
spectacular: stress cracks started after a
few weconds, gradually became very visible,
then BANG - pieces of canopy everywhere.
I still have some crazed fragments of that
canopy here as a souvenir..

Do not use this, despite what your local
"experts" may promote.
Use a product designed for plexi...

Hope this helps,
Best Regards, Dave

[tomcatvf51]

Due to a previous life where I had a plane captain give me a spotless canopy before every flight, I am particular about a clean canopy.
Our club Blanik is now 11 years old and the canopy is in immaculate condition. Any smudge is magnified when in the back seat and especially when landing to the west late on a summer day. It is always outside, the canopy is covered with a Bruce's canopy cover and it is cleaned at the start of each day of flying. We are on our second cover with the first cover lasting 7 years. I use a clean cotton T shirt and Pledge. I always clean in the direction of airflow. On my own PIK-20 using Sontara wipes and Plexus, I see no difference between the canopy conditions. There has been no yellowing of the Blanik canopy which some voice as an opinion for not using pledge.
In no case transport a glider with the canopy cover installed, I have personally seen the damage incurred.

- Barry Muhlenberg, CFI-G Cloudniners, O03

[Tim Mara]

if you want to yellow the canopy and add static to pick up dust and dirt
you'll wipe off later while scratching the canopy then go ahead and pledge
your canopy.....but please don't do mine!
tim

"Guy" > wrote in message
...
> What about Pledge?
>
> Guy
>
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[Andy[_1_]]

On Mar 24, 4:18*am, Dave Nadler > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 12:00*am, Guy > wrote:
>
> > What about Pledge?
>
> > Guy
>
> Pledge has solvents in it that promote crazing.
>
> Don't use it.

May need to specify which Pledge product. A few years ago a version
of Pledge, claimed to be formulated for transparent plastics, was
marketed. I used it for a while and then it became unavailable.

How you prep the canopy may depend on the conditions you operate in.
Arizona is very dusty and keeping the canopy static free is
important. I now use Plexus inside and out before almost every flight
(after removing any dust, grit and gravel).

Andy (GY)

[Bob Kuykendall]

On Mar 24, 4:18*am, Dave Nadler > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 12:00*am, Guy > wrote:
>
> > What about Pledge?
>
> > Guy
>
> Pledge has solvents in it that promote crazing...

I dunno, that sounds like urban legendry to me, but I'll believe it if
you can provide a cite.

I used Pledge on my HP-11 canopy for about a dozen years, and it
looked about the same before and after. Which is to say, far from
optically perfect but workmanlike and usable.

I also used Pledge on the acrylic HP-11 forward canopy section that
was supplied by Schreder, replaced by me and used as an oil drip tray
under my sports car, and then restored to service when it's Lexan
replacement was so brown I couldn't see the runway on final. Maybe the
Pledge and motor oil cancelled each other out.

Thanks, Bob K.

Thanks, Bob K.

[Dave Nadler]

On Mar 24, 12:14*pm, Andy > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 4:18*am, Dave Nadler > wrote:
>
> > On Mar 24, 12:00*am, Guy > wrote:
>
> > > What about Pledge?
>
> > > Guy
>
> > Pledge has solvents in it that promote crazing.
>
> > Don't use it.
>
> May need to specify which Pledge product. *A few years ago a version
> of Pledge, claimed to be formulated for transparent plastics, was
> marketed. *I used it for a while and then it became unavailable.

Sorry, IIRC this was aerosol lemon-freshened Pledge.
The canopy destruction incident was circa 1985.
Who knows if the formulation is the same these days.
I prefer not to find out the hard way...

Best Regards, Dave

[Dave Nadler]

On Mar 24, 12:20*pm, Bob Kuykendall > wrote:
> On Mar 24, 4:18*am, Dave Nadler > wrote:
> > Pledge has solvents in it that promote crazing...
>
> I dunno, that sounds like urban legendry to me, but I'll believe it if
> you can provide a cite.

I could send you a photo of the crazed fragment I saved...

See ya, Dave

[Pete Brown]

I agree with Bob... Pledge works well. I operate my Cessna 170 in a
dusty environment (construction dust and glacial silt) and have used
Pledge continuously nearly every weekend since 1997 on the same canopy
which still looks great.

I apply it after having throughly rinsed the canopy with lots of water
using only my fingertips to work off particles that do not wash off.
Lemon Pledge works great with never any of that dreaded yellow waxy
buildup. It's also popular with many commercial operators here.


Bob Kuykendall wrote:
> On Mar 24, 4:18 am, Dave Nadler > wrote:
>>
>>> What about Pledge?

>> Pledge has solvents in it that promote crazing...
>
> I dunno, that sounds like urban legendry to me, but I'll believe it if
> you can provide a cite.
>
> I used Pledge on my HP-11 canopy for about a dozen years, and it
> looked about the same before and after. Which is to say, far from
> optically perfect but workmanlike and usable.
>

> Thanks, Bob K.


--

Pete Brown
Anchorage Alaska

Going home after a long day
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1415/1325102827_f322928754_b.jpg

The fleet at Summit. Mt. McKinley is about 45nm away at 20,320 msl.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/187/437346531_a9cb8d2482_b.jpg

The 170B at Bold near Eklutna Glacier
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/168/437324742_a216d7bb75.jpg