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Scott Alexander[_2_]
April 5th 10, 03:55 PM
Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
painted contest id from under the wing?


I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my
contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. Anybody
have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best?

Thanks!

Bob Kuykendall
April 5th 10, 04:17 PM
On Apr 5, 7:55*am, Scott Alexander >
wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
> painted contest id from under the wing?

Sawzall.

sisu1a
April 5th 10, 05:07 PM
On Apr 5, 7:55*am, Scott Alexander >
wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
> painted contest id from under the wing?
>
> I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my
> contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. *Anybody
> have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best?
>
> Thanks!

Sorry no help on removing your painted letters (what type of paint, on
what type of surface?), but why on earth would you not just use
plotted (or hand cut, it's your time...) vinyl letter/numbers for your
new ones once you have the old 'painted-on nightmare' off?

-Paul

ps. putting on new vinyl to look PERFECT is very easy. Tip- don't be
cheap with the soap water (10drops non-citrus detergent in 1pt of
water, spayed generously on your surface and the sticker back after
paper is pulled. Apply decal and slide it around till it's where you
want it, and then credit card 'squeegee' excess, from center
outwards). To be fancy, you run hose over your target surface first to
de-static it (you get about 5-10min of static free after rinsing)

Tim Taylor
April 5th 10, 05:07 PM
On Apr 5, 9:17*am, Bob Kuykendall > wrote:
> On Apr 5, 7:55*am, Scott Alexander >
> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
> > painted contest id from under the wing?

Start with a search of this group with words "contest numbers remove"
You will get lots of help.

Basically you get two options, solvent if it will work or sandpaper.
It depends on if your glider is gel-coat or painted and the type of
paint used for the numbers currently on your glider.

I would recommend getting vinyl letters rather than painting again
(you will save money and time in the long run, but if you paint use
Automotive Lacquerer not enamel or polyurethane.

Tim (been there done that too many times)

T8
April 5th 10, 05:20 PM
On Apr 5, 12:07*pm, Tim Taylor > wrote:

> Tim (been there done that too many times)

Which is why I'm 'T8'. I liked my old number better, but I just
couldn't see screwing with a good paint job.

Stencils: use self adhesive plastic single use stencils. There are
companies that do this specifically for airplanes. They work great.
I would not even consider using anything else.

Heard once that the stencils on many gliders applied at the factory
are painted on with butyrate.

-Evan Ludeman, the glider pilot formerly known as 3Z.

April 5th 10, 05:45 PM
On Apr 5, 11:17*am, Bob Kuykendall > wrote:
> On Apr 5, 7:55*am, Scott Alexander >
> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
> > painted contest id from under the wing?
>
> Sawzall.

Scott:

Hate to see it go, but you might call M&H Soaring. Heinz may have an
answer.

Moe Acee (AC)

T8
April 5th 10, 05:59 PM
On Apr 5, 12:45*pm, wrote:

> Scott:
>
> Hate to see it go, but you might call M&H Soaring. *Heinz may have an
> answer.
>
> Moe Acee (AC)

There's the solution -- leave it alone!

-T8

lanebush
April 5th 10, 06:32 PM
I removed the large registration numbers and painted small ones on XF
this winter. I also removed the competition numbers and repainted
them. My Cirrus has gelcoat and I used 600/800/1200 grit wet
sandpaper to remove the numbers. The gelcoat shined up so nice I did
the entire airplane! I then had my local sign shop cut me some vinyl
stencils for $50 (using old turquoise vinyl that they did not want).
Tape the top of your stencil in place with masking tape hinges. Spray
a soapy solution on the surface. Lift stencil from the bottom and
bending at the hinges. Remove transfer paper. Apply stencil and use
squeegee to remove water. Wait a while to remove top paper as the
vinyl will lift until the surface dries out. Then rough up the
surface to be painted with 360 grit dry sand paper and sprayed
polyurethane. It looks pretty darn good.

XF

noel.wade
April 5th 10, 06:41 PM
On Apr 5, 9:07*am, Tim Taylor > wrote:

> I would recommend getting vinyl letters rather than painting again

I think the big argument against vinyl numbers is that they're thick
enough to trip the boundary layer and mess up the laminar flow.
Moffat mentions this a couple of times in "Winning II", for example.

--Noel
(who _does_ agree that paint is a pretty big commitment!)

Tim Taylor
April 5th 10, 06:47 PM
On Apr 5, 11:41*am, "noel.wade" > wrote:
> On Apr 5, 9:07*am, Tim Taylor > wrote:
>
> > I would recommend getting vinyl letters rather than painting again
>
> I think the big argument against vinyl numbers is that they're thick
> enough to trip the boundary layer and mess up the laminar flow.
> Moffat mentions this a couple of times in "Winning II", for example.
>
> --Noel
> (who _does_ agree that paint is a pretty big commitment!)

Actually I think you will find that in theory that sounds good, but
most people will not be able to paint the numbers any thinner that you
can get vinyl and have the numbers look nice at all.

When you are losing contests by 0.01% maybe it is time to paint.

Barny
April 6th 10, 02:56 AM
> And don't worry if you leave small air bubbles. they will go away by
> themselves over time.
>
> Tony V.

Pin prick the air bubbles.

Eric Greenwell
April 6th 10, 04:40 AM
wrote:
> On Apr 5, 10:55 am, Scott >
> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
>> painted contest id from under the wing?
>>
>> I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my
>> contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. Anybody
>> have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
> Removal- try acetone first. If that doesn't work, sand off with 600
> wet.
> Plain old Rustoleum works just fine for numbers- or get your sign
> store to make numbers instead of template.
>
In the olden days, we needed contest numbers on the bottom of the wing
so the visual gate system would work. What is the reason for requiring
them now that we don't use a visual gate?

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me)

Darryl Ramm
April 6th 10, 04:45 AM
On Apr 5, 8:40*pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> wrote:
> > On Apr 5, 10:55 am, Scott >
> > wrote:
>
> >> Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
> >> painted contest id from under the wing?
>
> >> I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my
> >> contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. *Anybody
> >> have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best?
>
> >> Thanks!
>
> > Removal- try acetone first. If that doesn't work, sand off with 600
> > wet.
> > Plain old Rustoleum works just fine for numbers- or get your sign
> > store to make numbers instead of template.
>
> In the olden days, we needed contest numbers on the bottom of the wing
> so the visual gate system would work. What is the reason for requiring
> them now that we don't use a visual gate?
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me)

It helps at time to know who you are thermalling/cruising under and be
able call them etc.

Darryl

Eric Greenwell
April 6th 10, 05:15 AM
Darryl Ramm wrote:
> On Apr 5, 8:40 pm, Eric > wrote:
>
>> In the olden days, we needed contest numbers on the bottom of the wing
>> so the visual gate system would work. What is the reason for requiring
>> them now that we don't use a visual gate?
>>
>> --
>> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me)
>>
> It helps at time to know who you are thermalling/cruising under and be
> able call them etc.
>
Yes, it does, and it would be useful for the guy on top to be able to
call the pilot below him, but he can't see any number. If knowing the
call sign is important, there should be a requirement for a number on
top. Failing that, I suspect it's just habit and inertia that leaves the
lower wing contest number in the rules.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (netto to net to email me)

- "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl

- "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation Mar/2004" Much of what you need to know tinyurl.com/yfs7tnz

Andy[_10_]
April 6th 10, 06:30 AM
On Apr 5, 9:15*pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> If knowing the call sign is important, there should be a requirement for a
> number on top. Failing that, I suspect it's just habit and inertia that leaves
> the lower wing contest number in the rules.

The primary original reason for contest numbers was visual ID on
starts and finishes. The only contest-relevant reason for them today
is assessing penalties on infractions within line of sight of the CD
(e.g. finish penalties).

IDs are helpful in making traffic calls irrespective of their initial
logic for being. Most of the time these calls are for gliders turning
inside you (belly to you) or abeam of you. An ID on top of the wing
might help on occasion, but in most instances where it would be of
help the higher glider either doesn't have a clear line of sight
(can't look through your own fuselage), or is in a better position to
clear the conflict on its own.

9B

Mark Jardini
April 6th 10, 01:12 PM
Why not put the ID on the bottom of the fuse?

Mark

Lewis Hartswick
April 6th 10, 02:55 PM
Scott Alexander wrote: Anybody
> have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best?
>
> Thanks!

Use "Poster Paint" and wash it off after the contest. :-)
...lew...

MickiMinner
April 6th 10, 05:17 PM
>
> The primary original reason for contest numbers was visual ID on
> starts and finishes. The only contest-relevant reason for them today
> is assessing penalties on infractions within line of sight of the CD
> (e.g. finish penalties).
>

I was just remembering several pilots who decided to do a "top gun"
low and fast flyby's during contests, thinking it was funny...well
with the ID number on the bottom, they can't really get away with that
infraction can they? LOL

Ken Kochanski (KK)
April 10th 10, 12:01 PM
On Apr 5, 10:55*am, Scott Alexander >
wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to remove the old
> painted contest id from under the wing?
>
> I am planning on having a local sign store make me a template for my
> contest ID - SA so I can spray a new ID on under the wing. *Anybody
> have a suggestion on what type of paint would work best?
>
> Thanks!

1. Try solvents ... lacquer thinner then acetone ...
2. sand off with a 1400 grit wet dry (wet) ... . then polish ... and
wax if you are not going to paint new letters ...

I always paint letters using the thinnest coat of lacquer possible.

wait until dry ... then sand the edges of the letters until there is
no transition ... the edge may get a little wavy, but this is really
no problem for readability.

BTW, if your letters trip the BL on a four foot wide section of the
wing bottom ... a few inches from the LE ... you are incurring a
reasonable performance loss on that section of wing ... i.e. the
bottom of the wing has attached flow almost to the trailing edge on
newer ships ... and ~ 80% on older designs.

So, will your new x-mil vinyl letters actually do this ... in theory
yes - in actuality, I don''t know ... but why take the chance ...
painting is very easy ... relatively fast ... and much cheaper ...
IMHO ...

KK

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