Interesting gap seal

[ryanglover1969[_2_]]

Friend of mine just bought John Seymour's Ventus 2 and it had a canopy
seal that was fixed to the edge of the canopy behind the pilot's
head...It operated like a mylar seal and that's probably the best way
to describe it... but it wasn't mylar. Is anyone familiar with this
set up? Anyone know where I can get some of this material?

[[email protected]]

On May 8, 5:18*pm, ryanglover1969 > wrote:
> Friend of mine just bought John Seymour's Ventus 2 and it had a canopy
> seal that was fixed to the edge of the canopy behind the pilot's
> head...It operated like a mylar seal and that's probably the best way
> to describe it... but it wasn't mylar. Is anyone familiar with this
> set up? Anyone know where I can get some of this material?

SM doesn't own gliders from the dark side. His '27 maybe?
UH

[Steve Leonard[_2_]]

Glider type and previous owner aside, I got a reply about how to do a
difficult sealing job on an older glass ship with a 6 foot long, one
piece, removeable canopy (Glasflugel BS1). It also has the problem of
the canopy becoming too long if it is in the sun and not installed on
the plane. Here is what I was told.

"This is an old problem, that only can be solved by making a gap on
the rear side of the canopy approx. 4mm when canopy is cool. This gap
is afterwards completely closed by adding a special mylar tape onto
the end over the top of the canopy bow. We call it V-band, it is made
by TESA company. Half of the width is covered with adhesive. This tape
does a perfect job, and the canopy is absolutely leak tight."

He sent me a small sample, that I have misplaced. The V-band is also
tapered slightly on one end to give a better blending into the
airstream. He said he has also used it on the front of his canopy
(stuck to the canopy, free end facing forward) and it works there and
does not lift and make a spoiler. Since your canopy is likely shorter
and doesn't have the expansion problem of the BS1, there is, of
course, no need to open up a 4 mm gap between the frame and fuselage!

I have also used just plane mylar on the back of the canopy on my Elfe
with good results. The drawback on the Elfe is there are pins on the
back of the canopy, and with the mylar on the canopy, you cannot see
the pins to get them to engage the holes on the fuselage.

Steve Leonard

[ryanglover1969[_2_]]

On May 9, 5:45*am, Steve Leonard > wrote:
> Glider type and previous owner aside, I got a reply about how to do a
> difficult sealing job on an older glass ship with a 6 foot long, one
> piece, removeable canopy (Glasflugel BS1). *It also has the problem of
> the canopy becoming too long if it is in the sun and not installed on
> the plane. *Here is what I was told.
>
> "This is an old problem, that only can be solved by making a gap on
> the rear side of the canopy approx. 4mm when canopy is cool. *This gap
> is afterwards completely closed by adding a special mylar tape onto
> the end over the top *of the canopy bow. We call it V-band, it is made
> by TESA company. Half of the width is covered with adhesive. This tape
> does a perfect job, and the canopy is absolutely leak tight."
>
> He sent me a small sample, that I have misplaced. *The V-band is also
> tapered slightly on one end to give a better blending into the
> airstream. *He said he has also used it on the front of his canopy
> (stuck to the canopy, free end facing forward) and it works there and
> does not lift and make a spoiler. *Since your canopy is likely shorter
> and doesn't have the expansion problem of the BS1, there is, of
> course, no need to open up a 4 mm gap between the frame and fuselage!
>
> I have also used just plane mylar on the back of the canopy on my Elfe
> with good results. *The drawback on the Elfe is there are pins on the
> back of the canopy, and with the mylar on the canopy, you cannot see
> the pins to get them to engage the holes on the fuselage.
>
> Steve Leonard

Thanks very much Steve. Very helpful. Can't wait to try it out

[johngalloway[_2_]]

On 9 May, 17:10, ryanglover1969 > wrote:
> On May 9, 5:45*am, Steve Leonard > wrote:
>
>
>
> > Glider type and previous owner aside, I got a reply about how to do a
> > difficult sealing job on an older glass ship with a 6 foot long, one
> > piece, removeable canopy (Glasflugel BS1). *It also has the problem of
> > the canopy becoming too long if it is in the sun and not installed on
> > the plane. *Here is what I was told.
>
> > "This is an old problem, that only can be solved by making a gap on
> > the rear side of the canopy approx. 4mm when canopy is cool. *This gap
> > is afterwards completely closed by adding a special mylar tape onto
> > the end over the top *of the canopy bow. We call it V-band, it is made
> > by TESA company. Half of the width is covered with adhesive. This tape
> > does a perfect job, and the canopy is absolutely leak tight."
>
> > He sent me a small sample, that I have misplaced. *The V-band is also
> > tapered slightly on one end to give a better blending into the
> > airstream. *He said he has also used it on the front of his canopy
> > (stuck to the canopy, free end facing forward) and it works there and
> > does not lift and make a spoiler. *Since your canopy is likely shorter
> > and doesn't have the expansion problem of the BS1, there is, of
> > course, no need to open up a 4 mm gap between the frame and fuselage!
>
> > I have also used just plane mylar on the back of the canopy on my Elfe
> > with good results. *The drawback on the Elfe is there are pins on the
> > back of the canopy, and with the mylar on the canopy, you cannot see
> > the pins to get them to engage the holes on the fuselage.
>
> > Steve Leonard
>
> Thanks very much Steve. Very helpful. Can't wait to try it out

I have this on the front and rear of my Discus 2cT canopy. I got the
tape from the UK agent who said then that it was "special mylar like
tape" - special in the sense that if heated it can be persuaded to
take the lateral "chordwise" curve necessary to go round the canopy
ends. The front is a very tight curve and only just achievable. I
did it by leaving the canopy and tape in an almost unbearably hot room
for a while and doing the whole procedure there. Once installed the
free overlapping part of the tape bends downwards so it makes a pretty
firm seal when flattened out as the canopy is closed so, as said
before, the front end doesn't lift. .

I did it because my canopy contracted and the ends lifted up, didn't
seal and it was unbearably noisy in subzero temperatures so some
fairing was needed as well as sealing. If it weren't for that aspect
I would concentrate on internal sealing rather than external tape.

John Galloway