Preheating schemes?

[Michael Horowitz]

I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
pre-heating your engine.

One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
doors open. - Mike

[Edward Schrom]

I'm not anywhere near needing a preheater for my Sonerai project, but I have
thought about it. When the day (or decade!)comes, I might try using a
propane bottle, the kind you can buy in the hardware store for a couple of
bucks. It would be below the cowling, far enough away to ensure that the
flame doesn't get too close. Then there would be a duct of lightweight
insulating material to guide the warm air through a door in the bottom of
the cowling into the engine compartment. The torch nozzle might have to be
customized to get the best heat transfer to the rising column of air.

The advantages of this would be a) it's cheap, b) it doesn't require
electricity, and c) it's portable, so I could take it with me on
overnighters in cold weather.

As I said, I'm nowhere near testing this idea. Try it at your own risk.

Ed


"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
> pre-heating your engine.
>
> One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
> the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
> doors open. - Mike

[Model Flyer]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
> pre-heating your engine.
>
> One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
> the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the
a/c
> doors open. - Mike

Bad idea, there would be lots and lots of condensation from the
exhaust. Everything would be wet, including the inside of your
starter and magneto. I'm sure you could even get water buildup inside
the carb if your engine had one:-)
--

..
--
Cheers,
Jonathan Lowe
whatever at antispam dot net
No email address given because of spam.
Antispam trap in place

[[email protected]]

Michael Horowitz > wrote:
: I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
: pre-heating your engine.

: One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
: the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
: doors open. - Mike

This doesn't sound like a very good idea to me. A car's exhaust
has a tremendous amount of water in it, and not very much heat idling on a
cold day. You'll put lots of condensation on whatever you're trying to
preheat.

If you can deal with long-term (a couple of hours), try to put an
electric heater on it. If you want quicker (20 minutes or less), get a
kerosene-fired flame-thrower and duct that up.

These recommendations are worth exactly what you paid for them..
:)

-Cory

--
************************************************** ***********************
* The prime directive of Linux: *
* - learn what you don't know, *
* - teach what you do. *
* (Just my 20 USm$) *
************************************************** ***********************

[Larry Smith]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
> pre-heating your engine.
>
> One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
> the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
> doors open. - Mike

Gackkkkkk!, Michael. Build an aluminum plenum around an inexpensive
ceramic electric heater --- you know, the little cube-shaped things about 8
inches wide and 8 inches high and 8 inches deep. These little heaters have
a spark-less blower and are not hot enough to flash gasoline fumes. Round
out the business end of the plenum to fit dryer hose and run the hose into
your cowl. Blanket your cowl to hold in the heat. Go with it until your
oil temp cracks 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

[Michael Horowitz]

wrote:


>
> This doesn't sound like a very good idea to me. A car's exhaust
>has a tremendous amount of water in it, and not very much heat idling on a
>cold day. You'll put lots of condensation on whatever you're trying to
>preheat.
>
>-Cory


Cory - thanks for pointing that out; - Mike

[R. Hubbell]

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500
Michael Horowitz > wrote:

> I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
> pre-heating your engine.
>
> One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
> the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
> doors open. - Mike



Fly it out to the California coast? No pre-heating needed here! ;)


R. Hubbell

[Big John]

Michael

Lots of suggestions. Here are more.

1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.

2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times. Then
gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether fired
engine would start running and you could then warm up normally prior
to take off.

Still have one or two of the little cans of ether on my msc. shelf in
shop. Can be bought at any auto parts store.

Small and light weight so can be thrown in baggage compartment and
forgotten until needed.

Big John


On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> wrote:

>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>pre-heating your engine.
>
>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>doors open. - Mike

[JFLEISC]

>
>I'm not anywhere near needing a preheater for my Sonerai project, but I have
>thought about it. When the day (or decade!)comes, I might try using a
>propane bottle, the kind you can buy in the hardware store for a couple of
>bucks. It would be below the cowling, far enough away to ensure that the
>flame doesn't get too close. Then there would be a duct of lightweight
>insulating material to guide the warm air through a door in the bottom of
>the cowling into the engine compartment. The torch nozzle might have to be
>customized to get the best heat transfer to the rising column of air.
>
>The advantages of this would be a) it's cheap, b) it doesn't require
>electricity, and c) it's portable, so I could take it with me on
>overnighters in cold weather.
>
>As I said, I'm nowhere near testing this idea. Try it at your own risk.
>
>Ed
>
October 2001 'Kitplanes' article. Tells you how to do just that for under $50.

Jim

[Michael Horowitz]

BJ - Here is an article you may find interesting concerning cold
starts:
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Article-Busch.htm

- Mike


Big John > wrote:

>Michael
>
>Lots of suggestions. Here are more.
>
>1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.
>
>2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times. Then
>gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether fired
>engine would start running and you could then warm up normally prior
>to take off.
>
>Still have one or two of the little cans of ether on my msc. shelf in
>shop. Can be bought at any auto parts store.
>
>Small and light weight so can be thrown in baggage compartment and
>forgotten until needed.
>
>Big John
>
>
>On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> wrote:
>
>>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>>pre-heating your engine.
>>
>>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>>doors open. - Mike

[Drew Dalgleish]

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> wrote:

>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>pre-heating your engine.
>
>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>doors open. - Mike

When I had my rebel tied down outside I used a " Mr. heater" It's a
radiant heater that screws onto a BBQ tank. I built a box around just
the heater part out of aluminum and 2 galvanized furnace pipes coming
out of the top. wrapped it all up in reflective bubble pack
insulation. Just light it up stick a tube in each cowl inlet throw a
blanket over the cowl and wait 20-30 min. and the cylinders would be
warm to touch. Now that I have a hangar I can just plug in an electric
heater. I even have it on a timer so if I know when I'm going to fly I
can have the plane ready.
Drew

[Morgans]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
> pre-heating your engine.
>
> One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
> the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
> doors open. - Mike

Try starting your car, and feeling the temp at the end of the exhaust pipe.
Not too warm. Add to that, the volume is very low, compared to commercial
rapid pre-heaters.

Good attempt, but try again, IMHO.
--
Jim in NC

[Ernest Christley]

Morgans wrote:
> "Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>>pre-heating your engine.
>>
>>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>>doors open. - Mike
>
>
> Try starting your car, and feeling the temp at the end of the exhaust pipe.
> Not too warm. Add to that, the volume is very low, compared to commercial
> rapid pre-heaters.
>
> Good attempt, but try again, IMHO.

I would say this is one area where water cooled engines have an
advantage. When I drove a truck, we would have a heater that stuck into
the radiator. Plug that sucker in and the big diesel would kick right
over in the morning. Forget to plug it in, and you could spend a good
45min heating the oil pan and head with a propane torch and then
shooting ether in the intake.

--
http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org/
"Ignorance is mankinds normal state,
alleviated by information and experience."
Veeduber

[Errol Groff]

A long time back Alaska Flyer magazine had an article about
overnighting on frozen lakes. The authors used a old fashion plumbers
blow torch and a length of cheap stove pipe to duct the heat to the
engine cowling. The torch could be refueled from the wing tank drain
so no extra fuel needed to be carried.

Although I have one of those old timey torches I have never attempted
to fire it up. Too chicken I guess.

Errol Groff
EAA 60159



On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> wrote:

>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>pre-heating your engine.
>
>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>doors open. - Mike

[Model Flyer]

"Big John" > wrote in message
...
> Michael
>
> Lots of suggestions. Here are more.
>
> 1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.
>
> 2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times.
Then
> gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether
fired
> engine would start running and you could then warm up normally
prior
> to take off.
>

Friend of mine knew a chap who administered an excess of 'easy
start', (ether), blew the manifold and battery out the side of his
car. Something simmilar may happen with your favorite aircraft if
given too much.
--
Cheers,
don't bother me with insigniciciant nonsence such as spelling,
I don't care if it spelt properly



> Still have one or two of the little cans of ether on my msc. shelf
in
> shop. Can be bought at any auto parts store.
>
> Small and light weight so can be thrown in baggage compartment and
> forgotten until needed.
>
> Big John
>
>
> On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> > wrote:
>
> >I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
> >pre-heating your engine.
> >
> >One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust
into
> >the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the
a/c
> >doors open. - Mike
>

[- Barnyard BOb -]

>A long time back Alaska Flyer magazine had an article about
>overnighting on frozen lakes. The authors used a old fashion plumbers
>blow torch and a length of cheap stove pipe to duct the heat to the
>engine cowling. The torch could be refueled from the wing tank drain
>so no extra fuel needed to be carried.
>
>Although I have one of those old timey torches I have never attempted
>to fire it up. Too chicken I guess.
>
>Errol Groff
> EAA 60159
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Can I have it?

My Dad use to use one.
Of course, he's gone now.....


Barnyard BOb - accepting donations for S&H

[Larry Smith]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> BJ - Here is an article you may find interesting concerning cold
> starts:
> http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Article-Busch.htm
>
> - Mike

Interesting article. Then if I didn't have electricity and was out in the
boonies and the temp were below 30 I'd rig up a camper stove or catalytic
heater. If a 912 I'd remove the h2o and heat it, and the oil. If a
Taylorcraft I'd heat the oil to 200 degrees F.

[James Lloyd]

For a cont. eng. with the oil tank,I have used a small 12 volt bev.
warmer and put it into the oil tank with an extention for the cig.
ligter plug to my car.It heats up the oil in about 6 mins.

[James Lloyd]

Years ago,we would put some gas into the oil right after shutdown and
that would keep it loose for quite a while and then just burn off when
running again.Jim

[Big John]

James

That was called "dilution". There was a schedule for different
temperatures and it told you how much gas to put in oil prior to shut
down. It took about 30 minutes at cruise power to boil the gas out of
the oil next day. You could take off with diluted oil if you had oil
pressure in the green.

Oh the good ole days. Haven't thought about 'dilution' in years. Tnx
for bringing up :o)

Big John

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:29:40 -0500 (EST), (James
Lloyd) wrote:

>Years ago,we would put some gas into the oil right after shutdown and
>that would keep it loose for quite a while and then just burn off when
>running again.Jim

[Big John]

Errol

Haven't fired mine up for years either.

Technique for those who haven't ever seen and/or used.:

Fill with gas.
Pump pressure up..
Put hand over end of nozzle and crack valve.
Raw gas will hit your hand and fall into the preheat trough.
Shut valve off, remove hand (G) and light gas in preheat trough.
When most of this gas has burned, crack valve not pointing nozzle at
anything.
If hot enough will get the characteristic 'roar' and thin blue flame
that can be used to heat any thing (mine was used to heat a big old
soldering iron that you could almost weld with and to unfreeze frozen
water pipes up in Iowa.
If not preheated enough, will send a thin stream of fire (like a flame
thrower) out for three to ten feet depending on how much you open the
valve. Experience taught you how much you needed to pre heat to get
the gas to vaporize and burn properly.

When full of gas not a lot of room for the air pressure you pumped in
starting. After a little while of running that pressure would start
down. You just set on ground and pumped pressure back up while
running. You can't over pressurize and rupture tank as body made out
of heavy sheet metal and only has a little hand pump.

I need to get mine out of the corner pile of 'stuff' and rehab. You
never know when you might need something like that <G>

May get the buggy whip out at the same time.

Oh, those good ole days <G>


Big John


On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:13:22 GMT, Errol Groff >
wrote:

>
>A long time back Alaska Flyer magazine had an article about
>overnighting on frozen lakes. The authors used a old fashion plumbers
>blow torch and a length of cheap stove pipe to duct the heat to the
>engine cowling. The torch could be refueled from the wing tank drain
>so no extra fuel needed to be carried.
>
>Although I have one of those old timey torches I have never attempted
>to fire it up. Too chicken I guess.
>
>Errol Groff
> EAA 60159
>
>
>
>On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> wrote:
>
>>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>>pre-heating your engine.
>>
>>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>>doors open. - Mike

[Big John]

Having read yesterdays post today, need to explain a little more.

There was a spring loaded switch in cockpit that controlled a valve
that let the gas go into the oil system. With engine running before
shut down you held this switch in on poisition for the number of
seconds that handbook told you to do for the expected temperature the
next day.

For example, 30 seconds for freezing, 60 seconds for 20 degrees, etc
(these are just examples not real life figures).

After putting the gas in oil, you had to run engine for a few minutes
so would mix and then thined oil get to all parts of engine.

Way I wrote, sound like you opened the oil cap and poured gas in prior
to shut down <G> No, no, no.

Big John


On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 23:52:36 -0600, Big John >
wrote:

>James
>
>That was called "dilution". There was a schedule for different
>temperatures and it told you how much gas to put in oil prior to shut
>down. It took about 30 minutes at cruise power to boil the gas out of
>the oil next day. You could take off with diluted oil if you had oil
>pressure in the green.
>
>Oh the good ole days. Haven't thought about 'dilution' in years. Tnx
>for bringing up :o)
>
>Big John
>
>On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:29:40 -0500 (EST), (James
>Lloyd) wrote:
>
>>Years ago,we would put some gas into the oil right after shutdown and
>>that would keep it loose for quite a while and then just burn off when
>>running again.Jim

[James Lloyd]

Yeah,I know what you mean John.Nowadays all we think about is what the
electronic box is telling us to do and you find less and less people to
ask info. from that have done it before.

[Yoram Leshinski]

I've been following this thread for a while and I'm surprised that
nobody mentioned an other type of oil heater. I had installed it in my
Grumann Tiger. It' been ten years since I've bought this heater so
perhaps it's not in the market any more.

The heater looks like an electronic circuit board. I think it was
rated at 200W, but don't nail me on that. You had to clean the bottom
of the oil pan and then the heater was glued to it. You secure the
110V plug so that it can't rip out the heater when pulled. You plug it
in and leave it connected all the time. The heat from the oil pan
travels up and keeps the engine warm enough not to have to be worried
about cold start. I guess if you live in Alaska you may want to wrap
your engine cowl with a blanket. In 1992 I paid about US$130 for it.
It was all over Trade a Plane. Never had a problem with it up here in
Toronto.

Yoram Leshinski

If electricity comes from electrons...
does that mean that morality comes from morons?





On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 04:44:14 -0500, Michael Horowitz
> wrote:

>I'd be interested in any schemes you may have developed for
>pre-heating your engine.
>
>One idea I heard was to use flex ducting to direct car exhaust into
>the cowling; that does present CO concerns, but on could leave the a/c
>doors open. - Mike

[[email protected]]

Big John > wrote:
: If not preheated enough, will send a thin stream of fire (like a flame
: thrower) out for three to ten feet depending on how much you open the
: valve. Experience taught you how much you needed to pre heat to get
: the gas to vaporize and burn properly.

Sounds like this small camp-stove I've got. It was a garage-sale
special, but I love it. Runs on regular gasoline (Fill 'er up for $0.75
and go camping for two days). It isn't that big though, so it took a
helluva long time to boil water while winter camping in Fairbanks, AK in
-10 F... Ah... good times.. :)

-Cory

--
************************************************** ***********************
* The prime directive of Linux: *
* - learn what you don't know, *
* - teach what you do. *
* (Just my 20 USm$) *
************************************************** ***********************

[James Lloyd]

Sorry John,I forgot to say that we ran the eng. after adding the gas.Jim

[GeorgeB]

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 21:24:17 -0500 (EST), (James
Lloyd) wrote:

>For a cont. eng. with the oil tank,I have used a small 12 volt bev.
>warmer and put it into the oil tank with an extention for the cig.
>ligter plug to my car.It heats up the oil in about 6 mins.

Lloyd, very, VERY, bad practice. I deal with oils from a fluid power
standpoint, and the electric heaters for them have low "watts per
square inch" because of 2 things ... local high temperatures on the
element, and poor thermal conductivity of oil vs. water.

The 2 of these together cause oxidation of the oil which gets worse as
the heating element gets a buildup of partially burned oil.

And, if it does anything to (4 qts) of oil in 6 minutes, my guess
would be about 1 degree ... the calcs are not too hard with known
volume and wattage.

Typically from 10 to 30 watts/sq inch (lower for thicker, static
applications, higher for thinner, flowing situations) are used. Your
tank is static and probably has an SAE 50 fluid.

In contrast, long life elements (home water heater) are in the 40 to
70 w/in^2 range.

http://www.chromalox.com/Literature/TANK.PDF has much more than you
ever wanted to know.

If you use about 50 lbs/cu-ft and 0.5 BTU/lb/degreeF you will be
close.

The airplane you save may be your own ...

[Model Flyer]

"- Barnyard BOb -" > wrote in message
...
>

> >to fire it up. Too chicken I guess.
> >
> >Errol Groff
> > EAA 60159
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Can I have it?
>
> My Dad use to use one.
> Of course, he's gone now.....
>

I suppose he brought it with him.:-(
--
---
Cheers,
Jonathan Lowe.
/
don't bother me with insignificiant nonsence such as spelling,
I don't care if it spelt properly
/
Sometimes I fly and sometimes I just dream about it.
:-)

>
> Barnyard BOb - accepting donations for S&H
>

[James Lloyd]

Thanks for the info George.I have never talked to anyone about this
before.I got the idea one day and just tried it and it seemed to work
fine for me.Even on a 15 degree day,the oil would almost boil if you
left it in over 10 min. or so.I change my oil every 20 hrs. so I figured
that it would be okay.After your post,I think I will reconsider,Jim

[Big John]

Model Flyer

What do you fly by the way (C/L. FF. RC, etc) ? Raced for a while till
my caller called it a day.

On ether, could happen.

I just assumed that anyone smart enougah to get a license to fly would
be smart enough to not over do a good thing <G>

Big John


On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:21:16 -0000, "Model Flyer" >
wrote:

>
>"Big John" > wrote in message
...
>> Michael
>>
>> Lots of suggestions. Here are more.
>>
>> 1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.
>>
>> 2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times.
>Then
>> gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether
>fired
>> engine would start running and you could then warm up normally
>prior
>> to take off.
>>
>
>Friend of mine knew a chap who administered an excess of 'easy
>start', (ether), blew the manifold and battery out the side of his
>car. Something simmilar may happen with your favorite aircraft if
>given too much.

[Model Flyer]

"Big John" > wrote in message
...
> Model Flyer
>
> What do you fly by the way (C/L. FF. RC, etc) ? Raced for a while
till
> my caller called it a day.
>

Did some FF rubber powered models when I was 12, however powered
flight started with C/L at 16 or 17 and graduated to RC when I
reached 30 or so, so I could say that I've been flying for 40 years.

Always wanted to fly 'real planes', however got glasses when I was 14
and only recently 86 discovered that I could fly with glasses. So far
Ive got about 13.5 hrs logged and a few more in the right seat.
Getting back to training this year, the group plane has been approved
for use for training through the a club at another field providing we
are all members of that club. So I can continue learning on the
aircraft I'm most likely to fly for the next few years.

Out of the blue I got a job offer at 54 and took it, so at least I
shall be able to pay for my flying without depending on the family
income.:-)
--
---
Cheers,
Jonathan Lowe.
/
don't bother me with insignificiant nonsence such as spelling,
I don't care if it spelt properly
/
Sometimes I fly and sometimes I just dream about it.
:-)



> On ether, could happen.
>
> I just assumed that anyone smart enougah to get a license to fly
would
> be smart enough to not over do a good thing <G>
>
> Big John
>
>
> On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:21:16 -0000, "Model Flyer"
>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Big John" > wrote in message
> ...
> >> Michael
> >>
> >> Lots of suggestions. Here are more.
> >>
> >> 1. If I had to RON in cold country, paid for a hanger.
> >>
> >> 2. If parked outside, pulled engine through a dozen or so times.
> >Then
> >> gave the intake a shot or two of ether and cranked. When ether
> >fired
> >> engine would start running and you could then warm up normally
> >prior
> >> to take off.
> >>
> >
> >Friend of mine knew a chap who administered an excess of 'easy
> >start', (ether), blew the manifold and battery out the side of his
> >car. Something simmilar may happen with your favorite aircraft if
> >given too much.
>

[Big John]

Model Flyer

Started with the dime store and Jimmy Allen ones and then a Wakefield
(sp) rubber FF. Then Quaker Flash and Zipper (with Brown Jr) with
which I won the annual contest in my home town in southern Iowa. Had
recovered bird and it was sitting next to car when my 'good buddy'
launched and did a loop and crashed into my bird cutting it in half. I
rebuilt for next year with an Ohlson 60 and enlarged it to half a
Sailplane size. Next year at first contest in Des Moines, made a 3
second motor run test and caught a thermal and it was gone. That fall
a farmer called. He had found in his corn field 28 miles away.
Nothing during WWII then C/L. Won the Salt Lake City 'D' speed with
an original (no rudder) McCoy 60. Raised four daughters and flew
Fighters. About 15 years ago got into R/C. Have a bunch now all over
my 'play pen'. Biggest a quarter scale P-51 copy of 'my' '51 (Kathie
Kay).

Had cataract taken out several months ago and not seeing good. Hope to
get a good set of glasses (they've tried several times) next week so I
can read and fly again. Am driving like Wiley Post flew.

It's hell to get old.

Good luck on the GA flying. It's great.

Big John.



On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 23:32:17 -0000, "Model Flyer" >
wrote:

>
>"Big John" > wrote in message
...
>> Model Flyer
>>
>> What do you fly by the way (C/L. FF. RC, etc) ? Raced for a while
>till
>> my caller called it a day.
>>
>
>Did some FF rubber powered models when I was 12, however powered
>flight started with C/L at 16 or 17 and graduated to RC when I
>reached 30 or so, so I could say that I've been flying for 40 years.
>
>Always wanted to fly 'real planes', however got glasses when I was 14
>and only recently 86 discovered that I could fly with glasses. So far
>Ive got about 13.5 hrs logged and a few more in the right seat.
>Getting back to training this year, the group plane has been approved
>for use for training through the a club at another field providing we
>are all members of that club. So I can continue learning on the
>aircraft I'm most likely to fly for the next few years.
>
>Out of the blue I got a job offer at 54 and took it, so at least I
>shall be able to pay for my flying without depending on the family
>income.:-)

[Roger Halstead]

On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 15:52:56 -0600, Big John >
wrote:

<snip>
>
>Had cataract taken out several months ago and not seeing good. Hope to
>get a good set of glasses (they've tried several times) next week so I
>can read and fly again. Am driving like Wiley Post flew.
>
>It's hell to get old.
>
Yah, but it sure beats any present alternative.

Roger (K8RI)

>Good luck on the GA flying. It's great.
>
>Big John.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)