LS6-b Maintenance queries

[Ben C]

Hi all,

I am inspecting my LS6-b at the moment - a recent purchase. I have a few queries that hopefully others have come across previously. Any help appreciated!:
- I have partially dis-assembled the rudder pedals to remove the nose release for testing. There is an upper tube that the pedals slide along (which also supports the canopy gas strut) which is held in place with a large bolt at each end. The bolt was very difficult to undo and appears to be held by white threadlock. Should I re-threadlock and if so, what type of threadlock? Other bolts seem dry and some are lightly corroded, so that may be what I am seeing.
- I would like to remove the l'hotellier balls from the pushrods however they are firmly held in place (corrosion or threadlock). Is there a trick to removing? I am concerned about damaging the pushrod with a clamping force.
- The tail water ballast instructions refer to markings to determine fill level. I can't see any markings - how do I tell how much tail water ballast is on board?

Despite these issues I am impressed with the serviceablility of this aircraft. My previous experience is with SZD sailplanes which seem to require more work annually and double jointed arms.

Cheers, Ben

[kirk.stant]

On Jan 6, 9:25*pm, Ben C > wrote:
> Hi all,

> - The tail water ballast instructions refer to markings to determine fill level. *I can't see any markings - how do I tell how much tail water ballast is on board?

My LS6-b has a long rod with a float at the bottom, that passes
through the screened filler plug on the top of the tail tank. The rod
has liter markings on it. You unhook it from a little clip and let it
float up while filling the tank with water, then push it down and
secure it before installing the tail.

Congrats on getting a 6, they are wonderful gliders, and really fly
nice with a good load of water onboard. Tail ballast is important -
do a w&b in flight condition with you in the cockpit, dry and with
full legal wing and tail water, then adjust as necessary. 20 - 25 %
forward of the aft limit makes the 6 climb and run really nice without
getting twitchy.

Cheers,

Kirk
LS6-b "66"

[JJ Sinclair[_2_]]

On Jan 6, 7:25*pm, Ben C > wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am inspecting my LS6-b at the moment - a recent purchase. *I have a few queries that hopefully others have come across previously. *Any help appreciated!:
> - I have partially dis-assembled the rudder pedals to remove the nose release for testing. *There is an upper tube that the pedals slide along (which also supports the canopy gas strut) which is held in place with a large bolt at each end. *The bolt was very difficult to undo and appears to be held by white threadlock. *Should I re-threadlock and if so, what type of threadlock? *Other bolts seem dry and some are lightly corroded, so that may be what I am seeing.
> - I would like to remove the l'hotellier balls from the pushrods however they are firmly held in place (corrosion or threadlock). *Is there a trick to removing? I am concerned about damaging the pushrod with a clamping force.
> - The tail water ballast instructions refer to markings to determine fill level. *I can't see any markings - how do I tell how much tail water ballast is on board?
>
> Despite these issues I am impressed with the serviceablility of this aircraft. *My previous experience is with SZD sailplanes which seem to require more work annually and double jointed arms.
>
> Cheers, Ben

I wouldn't remove the Hotellier's unless you must. If you don't get
them back in the exact same setting, the control position will
change.........real bad news for spoilers where one could be in over-
center and the other not. You can lube them with spray lube, then
force the slide back and forth with a key (soft metal) until they move
freely. If you must remove one, tape around the push-rod then
carefully place vice-grips so that they just grip ahead of two
opposing rivets, then loosen the jam-nut.

If the manufacturer used lock-tite on some bolts then you should do
the same when re-installing. Most rusted bolt heads an nuts can be
wire-brush'ed and painted with a spray can. Cut a hole in a sock and
place it over the areas you dont want to spray or use a small paint
brush.

I filled the tail tank with a known amount of water or, you can add
one quart at a time and mark the clear platic filler tube held against
the fin as you fill from the dump port with the valve open.
Hope this helps,
JJ