How do I remove white fog from canopy?

[Blake Miller[_2_]]

I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
this white fog?

If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
clearer view while soaring.

Blake S Miller

[mike]

On May 15, 7:50*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> this white fog?
>
> If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
> the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
> even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
> this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
> canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
> clearer view while soaring.
>
> Blake S Miller

Don't know about white fog Blake or the cause, but check out
Micromesh. If the canopy can be saved Micromesh can save it.

mike

[T8]

On May 15, 9:50*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> this white fog?
>
> If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
> the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
> even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
> this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
> canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
> clearer view while soaring.
>
> Blake S Miller

Meguiar's "PlastX" would be worth a try. It's widely sold (Walmart,
etc.) for clearing plastic headlight lens covers and it is
(relatively) quick, inexpensive. I've not tried this on a canopy, but
it works great on automotive plastic. If this works, it would be
about 1/10 the effort of MicroMesh.

-Evan Ludeman / T8

[mike]

On May 15, 7:50*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> this white fog?
>
> If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
> the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
> even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
> this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
> canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
> clearer view while soaring.
>
> Blake S Miller

Blake,

When it is time to replace your Phoebus canopy contact Thermotec.
They have a canopy mold for the Phoebus and made one for the "C"
that I owned several years ago. I would avoid a blown canopy.

http://www.thermotecusa.com/ThermoTec%20Canopy%20Mold%20Making.htm

Mike

[vaughn[_3_]]

"Blake Miller" > wrote in message
...
>I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> this white fog?

The problem is probably a microscopic pitting of the plastic. As others have
mentioned, the ultimate fix is Micromesh, time, elbow grease, and beer. (Use
the beer on yourself, not the canopy.) Various products are available,
primarily for headlight restoration, that use some clear substance to fill the
pits, which restores the clarity of the plastic. These products all work (to
some extent) and may be worth trying.

Vaughn

[Dave Nadler]

On May 15, 9:50*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> this white fog?
>
> If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
> the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
> even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
> this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
> canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
> clearer view while soaring.
>
> Blake S Miller

Careful with RAS advice !

If you are lucky that white haze is just some waxy
product turned to dust. Try a good canopy cleaner
(no, NOT lemon pledge or any other home-remedy).
Don't mess with MicroMesh unless you have a very
good reason and know what you're doing. Otherwise
you might destroy a perfectly good canopy.

For what its worth,
Best Regards, Dave

PS: Good luck with that pretty old bird !

[T8]

On May 16, 6:14*pm, Dave Nadler > wrote:
> On May 15, 9:50*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
>
> > I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> > but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> > cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> > this white fog?
>
> > If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
> > the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
> > even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
> > this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
> > canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
> > clearer view while soaring.
>
> > Blake S Miller
>
> Careful with RAS advice !
>
> If you are lucky that white haze is just some waxy
> product turned to dust. Try a good canopy cleaner
> (no, NOT lemon pledge or any other home-remedy).
> Don't mess with MicroMesh unless you have a very
> good reason and know what you're doing. Otherwise
> you might destroy a perfectly good canopy.
>
> For what its worth,
> Best Regards, Dave
>
> PS: Good luck with that pretty old bird !

What part of "cannot be removed by traditional cleaning" eluded you,
Dave :-)?

-T8

[bildan]

On May 15, 7:50*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> I just picked up a new - used Phoebus C and the canopy is not scratchd
> but has a slight white fog that cannot be removed with traditional
> cleaning, Does anyone know if a product is available that will remove
> this white fog?
>
> If anyone is wondering, this is the Phoebus C that was on W & W for
> the last 3/4 of a year. I am very pleased with the glider and was in
> even better condition than I thought it would be in. I plan on making
> this Phoebus like new over the next few years and replacing the
> canopy. But in the meantime I would like to remove the white fog for a
> clearer view while soaring.
>
> Blake S Miller

I've polished out some badly scratched canopys but it's not an hours
work - more like weeks or months of very patient work climbing a steep
learning curve. I consider it a winter project. The results can be
pretty nice though.

If you need it done in a hurry, see if a professional plastics shop
will take the project. These guys can work wonders with Plexiglass.
I've seen cracks and scratches from a loose canopy being blown across
a ramp made to totally disappear. They usually aren't too expensive
compared to the alternatives.

Bill Daniels

[Blake Miller[_2_]]

Thanks to all for such thoughtful responses.

Blake

[Chris Donovan]

On May 17, 9:52*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> Thanks to all for such thoughtful responses.
>
> Blake

I was stuck once...without 501 or some of the other products...used
crest, didn't have a choice, bad hazing right in front driving me
nuts...took about 6 hours over two days for a section about 12 x 12
inch's...still looks great...not for the feighnt of heart. years later
tried the headlight stuff...all of em...not worth the time of day
based on the results a month later. Found out the headlight cleaners
spread various chemicals and acylics...crest just filled with "marble"
dust from some place in Vermont...would trust the crest approach
before I would use the headlight things again. Check out sportys or
the pilot shop for the complete list of products...know in advance the
three step products use crest... :) (as part of the process) lots of
water and clean rags, a steady supply of clean rags ...I can not
emphasise enough... clean rags. Be very, very, carefull with the
products that rely on the foam cups and pads, just don't work as well.
It is so easy to make things worse with micromesh esp the pro kit and
a hand drill or power tool...learned from experience. Sonata or
whatever ...just as easy to use clean rags and use the rag once...I
mean for one wipe... till all the surface stuff is gone. then start in
with some joy or something really really mild, till the second layer
of crud is gone...I guess my main point here is NO shortcuts and any
product that says fast in the literature...run away from. Good luck.

[T8]

On Jun 3, 1:50*am, Chris Donovan > wrote:
> On May 17, 9:52*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all for such thoughtful responses.
>
> > Blake
>
> I was stuck once...without 501 or some of the other products...used
> crest, didn't have a choice, bad hazing right in front driving me
> nuts...took about 6 hours over two days for a section about 12 x 12
> inch's...still looks great...not for the feighnt of heart. years later
> tried the headlight stuff...all of em...not worth the time of day
> based on the results a month later. Found out the headlight cleaners
> spread various chemicals and acylics...crest just filled with "marble"
> dust from some place in Vermont...would trust the crest approach
> before I would use the headlight things again. Check out sportys or
> the pilot shop for the complete list of products...know in advance the
> three step products use crest... :) (as part of the process) lots of
> water and clean rags, a steady supply of clean rags ...I can not
> emphasise enough... clean rags. *Be very, very, carefull with the
> products that rely on the foam cups and pads, just don't work as well.
> It is so easy to make things worse with micromesh esp the pro kit and
> a hand drill or power tool...learned from experience. Sonata or
> whatever ...just as easy to use clean rags and use the rag once...I
> mean for one wipe... till all the surface stuff is gone. then start in
> with some joy or something really really mild, till the second layer
> of crud is gone...I guess my main point here is NO shortcuts and any
> product that says fast in the literature...run away from. *Good luck.

You guys seem to have confused the Meguiars PlastX I mentioned above
for the old school Mirror Glaze products. PlastX is a polish, i.e.
abrasive, silica gel by the look/smell/feel of it, in the same family
as 3M "Finesse It" see here http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G12310.

[Chris Donovan]

On Jun 3, 1:50*am, Chris Donovan > wrote:
> On May 17, 9:52*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all for such thoughtful responses.
>
> > Blake
>
> I was stuck once...without 501 or some of the other products...used
> crest, didn't have a choice, bad hazing right in front driving me
> nuts...took about 6 hours over two days for a section about 12 x 12
> inch's...still looks great...not for the feighnt of heart. years later
> tried the headlight stuff...all of em...not worth the time of day
> based on the results a month later. Found out the headlight cleaners
> spread various chemicals and acylics...crest just filled with "marble"
> dust from some place in Vermont...would trust the crest approach
> before I would use the headlight things again. Check out sportys or
> the pilot shop for the complete list of products...know in advance the
> three step products use crest... :) (as part of the process) lots of
> water and clean rags, a steady supply of clean rags ...I can not
> emphasise enough... clean rags. *Be very, very, carefull with the
> products that rely on the foam cups and pads, just don't work as well.
> It is so easy to make things worse with micromesh esp the pro kit and
> a hand drill or power tool...learned from experience. Sonata or
> whatever ...just as easy to use clean rags and use the rag once...I
> mean for one wipe... till all the surface stuff is gone. then start in
> with some joy or something really really mild, till the second layer
> of crud is gone...I guess my main point here is NO shortcuts and any
> product that says fast in the literature...run away from. *Good luck.

If it's a disaster see the EAA video...I checked and the crest
toothpast is about 5000 - 10000 grit,... but boy does it take a long
time...

[Larry Goddard]

"Chris Donovan" > wrote in message
:

> On Jun 3, 1:50*am, Chris Donovan > wrote:
> > On May 17, 9:52*pm, Blake Miller > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks to all for such thoughtful responses.
> >
> > > Blake
> >
> > I was stuck once...without 501 or some of the other products...used
> > crest, didn't have a choice, bad hazing right in front driving me
> > nuts...took about 6 hours over two days for a section about 12 x 12
> > inch's...still looks great...not for the feighnt of heart. years later
> > tried the headlight stuff...all of em...not worth the time of day
> > based on the results a month later. Found out the headlight cleaners
> > spread various chemicals and acylics...crest just filled with "marble"
> > dust from some place in Vermont...would trust the crest approach
> > before I would use the headlight things again. Check out sportys or
> > the pilot shop for the complete list of products...know in advance the
> > three step products use crest... :) (as part of the process) lots of
> > water and clean rags, a steady supply of clean rags ...I can not
> > emphasise enough... clean rags. *Be very, very, carefull with the
> > products that rely on the foam cups and pads, just don't work as well.
> > It is so easy to make things worse with micromesh esp the pro kit and
> > a hand drill or power tool...learned from experience. Sonata or
> > whatever ...just as easy to use clean rags and use the rag once...I
> > mean for one wipe... till all the surface stuff is gone. then start in
> > with some joy or something really really mild, till the second layer
> > of crud is gone...I guess my main point here is NO shortcuts and any
> > product that says fast in the literature...run away from. *Good luck.
>
> If it's a disaster see the EAA video...I checked and the crest
> toothpast is about 5000 - 10000 grit,... but boy does it take a long
> time...




I just refinished some badly hazed headlights last week (about 80 sq.
inches each) with Mothers PowerBall 4Lights Headlight Restoration Kit.
Dead simple to use. Just abrade with the 4 stages of abrasive pads and
then polish with the foam ball and special polishing liquid. Took maybe
10 minutes total time per headlight!!! Looks perfect. Would not
hesitate to use on a glider canopy.

My $0.02

Larry