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Bill D
June 13th 12, 02:52 PM
FYI...

The Cobra trailer for one of the two CAP ASK-21's had developed a
problem with the left tire and had a tendency to sway. The tire was
deteriorating rapidly, wearing on one side with severe cupping. The
tires were relatively new trailer rated bias ply. Theories ranged
from a bent axle to a bad tire with misaligned belting.

A trip to a professional trailer shop uncovered the real cause -
jammed left brake. The Cobra's surge brakes are purely mechanical
with a push-pull rod from the hitch to near the axle where two cables
run to the drum brakes. The left cable had become jammed with dirt
and wasn't releasing the brake causing it to drag until it could
barely roll. The asymmetrical braking was contributing to the
swaying.

There are no dust boots on the cable housing to keep dirt out so this
is likely to be a recurring problem.

All the towing vehicles have electric brake controllers installed so
I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.

sisu1a
June 13th 12, 03:33 PM
> I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.

+1 -and let me help you get it started...

Dear Mr Spindelberger, surge brakes suck. I'd rather have no brakes
than deal with the large range of well known and predictable nonsense
that accompanies that outdated overpriced unreliable system. Cobra
should at least offer electrics as a stock option, or at least without
any brakes so we can convert them ourselves with the extra 2 grand
that wasn't wasted on junk running gear. These aren't your father's
electric brakes...

-Paul (guy who's towed a lot of trailers a lot of miles and also knows
of accidents directly caused by Cobra brakes)

ps. I have a 10 point list I've thrown out a few times around here in
the past, of why electrics are clearly a better option for glider
trailers in case anyone still clings to the notion that their surgies
are better simply because that's what they have. I mean, the most
expensive glider trailer would obviously come with the best system,
right? ;)

Grider Pirate[_2_]
June 13th 12, 03:56 PM
On Jun 13, 7:33*am, sisu1a > wrote:
> > I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.
>
> +1 * -and let me help you get it started...
>
> Dear Mr Spindelberger, surge brakes suck. I'd rather have no brakes
> than deal with the large range of well known and predictable nonsense
> that accompanies that outdated overpriced unreliable system. Cobra
> should at least offer electrics as a stock option, or at least without
> any brakes so we can convert them ourselves with the extra 2 grand
> that wasn't wasted on junk running gear. * These aren't your father's
> electric brakes...
>
> -Paul (guy who's towed a lot of trailers a lot of miles and also knows
> of accidents directly caused by Cobra brakes)
>
> ps. I have a 10 point list I've thrown out a few times around here in
> the past, of why electrics are clearly a better option for glider
> trailers in case anyone still clings to the notion that their surgies
> are better simply because that's what they have. I mean, the most
> expensive glider trailer would obviously come with the best system,
> right? ;)

I totally agree! Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.

June 13th 12, 07:36 PM
On Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:52:11 AM UTC-4, Bill D wrote:
> FYI...
>
> The Cobra trailer for one of the two CAP ASK-21's had developed a
> problem with the left tire and had a tendency to sway. The tire was
> deteriorating rapidly, wearing on one side with severe cupping. The
> tires were relatively new trailer rated bias ply. Theories ranged
> from a bent axle to a bad tire with misaligned belting.
>
> A trip to a professional trailer shop uncovered the real cause -
> jammed left brake. The Cobra's surge brakes are purely mechanical
> with a push-pull rod from the hitch to near the axle where two cables
> run to the drum brakes. The left cable had become jammed with dirt
> and wasn't releasing the brake causing it to drag until it could
> barely roll. The asymmetrical braking was contributing to the
> swaying.
>
> There are no dust boots on the cable housing to keep dirt out so this
> is likely to be a recurring problem.
>
> All the towing vehicles have electric brake controllers installed so
> I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.

So- Failure to do some routine preventative maintenance constitutes a poor product result.
I've had excellent results with Cobra trailers with surge brakes over the last 15 years or so. Have 4 of them now and satisfied with them.
Just looked at the one in my driveway and it has boots where the cable enters the guides and is well closed off at the brake housing end.
Different experience being reported
It certainly would make sense for people to pick up on Bill's finding and take a look.
UH

Bill D
June 13th 12, 07:42 PM
On Jun 13, 8:56*am, Grider Pirate > wrote:
> On Jun 13, 7:33*am, sisu1a > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.
>
> > +1 * -and let me help you get it started...
>
> > Dear Mr Spindelberger, surge brakes suck. I'd rather have no brakes
> > than deal with the large range of well known and predictable nonsense
> > that accompanies that outdated overpriced unreliable system. Cobra
> > should at least offer electrics as a stock option, or at least without
> > any brakes so we can convert them ourselves with the extra 2 grand
> > that wasn't wasted on junk running gear. * These aren't your father's
> > electric brakes...
>
> > -Paul (guy who's towed a lot of trailers a lot of miles and also knows
> > of accidents directly caused by Cobra brakes)
>
> > ps. I have a 10 point list I've thrown out a few times around here in
> > the past, of why electrics are clearly a better option for glider
> > trailers in case anyone still clings to the notion that their surgies
> > are better simply because that's what they have. I mean, the most
> > expensive glider trailer would obviously come with the best system,
> > right? ;)
>
> I totally agree! *Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
> surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
> My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
> it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.

Are there any electric brake conversion options?

June 13th 12, 10:40 PM
I have a similar problem recently on my Cobra.
The extreme outer edge of contact area of the left tire is wearing and cupping.
The right tire is fine.
The trailer is from around 1997. Aluminum top.
I estimate I am doing about 1000 miles / year.
Behind my Blazer, this trailer runs rock solid, even significantly past 65mph.
No swaying.
I contacted Spindelberger, who replied immediately and suggested to check the bearing, wheel balance and alignment.
The bearings seem fine. No roughness in the bearing and no knacking sounds.
Also the break does not engage.
I have had no problems backing up.
I still need check the balance, the tire alignment, shocks and boots.

Any ideas how/where to check the alignment ?
And how do I test the shocks ? The suspension seems very stiff.

Paul, I would not endorse your "Letter to Spindelberger"

3U.

Peter Scholz[_3_]
June 13th 12, 11:37 PM
Am 13.06.2012 16:33, sisu1a wrote:
>> I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.
>
> +1 -and let me help you get it started...
>
> Dear Mr Spindelberger, surge brakes suck. I'd rather have no brakes
> than deal with the large range of well known and predictable nonsense
> that accompanies that outdated overpriced unreliable system. Cobra
> should at least offer electrics as a stock option, or at least without
> any brakes so we can convert them ourselves with the extra 2 grand
> that wasn't wasted on junk running gear. These aren't your father's
> electric brakes...
>
> -Paul (guy who's towed a lot of trailers a lot of miles and also knows
> of accidents directly caused by Cobra brakes)
>
> ps. I have a 10 point list I've thrown out a few times around here in
> the past, of why electrics are clearly a better option for glider
> trailers in case anyone still clings to the notion that their surgies
> are better simply because that's what they have. I mean, the most
> expensive glider trailer would obviously come with the best system,
> right? ;)

You have to take into account, that these trailers are fabricated for
the german/european market, and that the only brake system that you will
get approved in Germany are surge brakes. There are no things as
electrical brakes in Europe. We do have air pressure brake systems on
truck trailers, but on these light trailers we only have the brake
system that Spindelberger is using. And yes, they work very well if
properly maintained.

--
Peter Scholz
ASW24 JE

sisu1a
June 13th 12, 11:45 PM
>I've had excellent results with Cobra trailers with surge brakes over the last 15 years or so. Have 4 of them now and satisfied with them

The absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence. A lot of
people on this forum *have had problems, and continue to do so.
Electric brakes don't require anywhere near the amount of regiment to
keep from posing an unsuspected hazard on the road, and unlike surge
getups they're easily verified for full proper function *before
ramming someone, or burning off a wheel going down a hill, etc... I
was resistant to the idea too, but Dave Nadler ranting about them some
years back convinced me to look closer at them, and upon closer
inspection found a lot of merits in this system. I converted my
trailer and really grew to like the control and flexibility. In the
meantime, accounts of scary and almost-scary incidents with surgies
continue to pile up on this forum. Electric brakes are not a gimmick,
and in practice you have infinitely more control over them, besides
their other qualities that make them better suited to the realities of
glider trailer duty. I'm not suggesting everyone should immediately
rip their running gear off new trailers and go electric, but if you
ever need to replace the gear (comes up often enough...) it makes zero
sense to waste the extra money for a finicky, higher maintenance getup
with limited function a lot more gotchas and a shorter shelf life.

Would you say that horse owners care more about their horses than
pilots care about their gliders? Why don't they use surge brakes?
(well, other than one European manufacture that doesn't seem to get
it...)

Other than being 100% compatible with any suitable tow vehicle, are
there any advantages to surge brakes that I'm overlooking? The list of
disadvantages is kinda long, and the above advantage is of limited
value since our own vehicles are usually hooked to our trailers...

> Are there any electric brake conversion options?

Yes!

The easiest/cheapest I know of is a Dexter Torflex axle (now available
in galvanized flavor!). Most Cobras would use a #9 or #10, or possibly
a custom one in between. It has the same swingarm type independent
suspension and they all have custom welded mounting flanges made to
your specs. http://www.dexteraxle.com/torflex_axles

Here's the basics that need to be figured out to order a replacement:
http://www.humphrey****chandtrailerparts.com/torflex-selection-guide.htm
.... and a diagram kinda showing what they're talking about.
http://www.humphrey****chandtrailerparts.com/torflex-10-start-angle.htm

Once a few of these are done to a range of Cobras, the std formulas
for different years/gross weights will be well known and it will
become a cookie cutter operation. The axles are ~$200, and one needs
the brake equipped hub/drums to go with it, which are around $60-$80
apiece. Another $20-$50 on wiring, $50ish for a breakaway kit, and a
nice controller like a Tekonsha Prodigy or StopRight Intellistop (same
part, different manufacturer) is around $120. Rims/tires are planed
around the offset and hole pattern, and cost whatever you get them for
but these might as well be nice 14 or 15" wheels instead of those
12/13" toys they don't sell anywhere anyways. Wouldn't hurt to put
real (metal) fenders on there too... much more blowout and deer
resilient.

-Paul (who also doesn't endorse my "Letter to Spindelberger" ;)

ps, a quick google search of 'surge vs electric brakes' shows that I'm
far from alone in my dim view of surge brakes...

Bill D
June 14th 12, 01:38 AM
On Jun 13, 4:45*pm, sisu1a > wrote:
> >I've had excellent results with Cobra trailers with surge brakes over the last 15 years or so. Have 4 of them now and satisfied with them
>
> The absence of evidence is not the evidence of absence. A lot of
> people on this forum *have had problems, and continue to do so.
> Electric brakes don't require anywhere near the amount of regiment to
> keep from posing an unsuspected hazard on the road, and unlike surge
> getups they're easily verified for full proper function *before
> ramming someone, or burning off a wheel going down a hill, etc... * I
> was resistant to the idea too, but Dave Nadler ranting about them some
> years back convinced me to look closer at them, and upon closer
> inspection found a lot of merits in this system. I converted my
> trailer and really grew to like the control and flexibility. In the
> meantime, accounts of scary and almost-scary incidents with surgies
> continue to pile up on this forum. Electric brakes are not a gimmick,
> and in practice you have infinitely more control over them, besides
> their other qualities that make them better suited to the realities of
> glider trailer duty. I'm not suggesting everyone should immediately
> rip their running gear off new trailers and go electric, but if you
> ever need to replace the gear (comes up often enough...) it makes zero
> sense to waste the extra money for a finicky, higher maintenance getup
> with limited function a lot more gotchas and a shorter shelf life.
>
> Would you say that horse owners care more about their horses than
> pilots care about their gliders? Why don't they use surge brakes?
> (well, other than one European manufacture that doesn't seem to get
> it...)
>
> Other than being 100% compatible with any suitable tow vehicle, are
> there any advantages to surge brakes that I'm overlooking? The list of
> disadvantages is kinda long, and the above advantage is of limited
> value since our own vehicles are usually hooked to our trailers...
>
> > Are there any electric brake conversion options?
>
> Yes!
>
> The easiest/cheapest I know of is a Dexter Torflex axle (now available
> in galvanized flavor!). Most Cobras would use a #9 or #10, or possibly
> a custom one in between. It has the same swingarm type independent
> suspension and they all have custom welded mounting flanges made to
> your specs.http://www.dexteraxle.com/torflex_axles
>
> Here's the basics that need to be figured out to order a replacement:http://www.humphrey****chandtrailerparts.com/torflex-selection-guide.htm
> ... and a diagram kinda showing what they're talking about.http://www.humphrey****chandtrailerparts.com/torflex-10-start-angle.htm
>
> Once a few of these are done to a range of Cobras, the std formulas
> for different years/gross weights will be well known and it will
> become a cookie cutter operation. The axles are ~$200, and one needs
> the brake equipped hub/drums to go with it, which are around $60-$80
> apiece. Another $20-$50 on wiring, $50ish for a breakaway kit, and a
> nice controller like a Tekonsha Prodigy or StopRight Intellistop (same
> part, different manufacturer) is around $120. Rims/tires are planed
> around the offset and hole pattern, and cost whatever you get them for
> but these might as well be nice 14 or 15" wheels instead of those
> 12/13" toys they don't sell anywhere anyways. Wouldn't hurt to put
> real (metal) fenders on there too... much more blowout and deer
> resilient.
>
> -Paul (who also doesn't endorse my "Letter to Spindelberger" *;)
>
> ps, a quick google search of 'surge vs electric brakes' shows that I'm
> far from alone in my dim view of surge brakes...

I just got back from the 2nd trip to the trailer service shop. They
declared, "It can't be fixed". and recommended electric brakes (which
they don't sell). I took the trailer with partially working brakes
back to the airport where it will stay until we figure out a
solution. I noticed the brakes dragging after a stop. If I
accelerated hard enough to feel the "clunk" as the surge hitch
extended, the dragging went away. Obviously some 'stiction' there
somewhere.

I tend to think if the mechanical surge brakes ever worked, they can
be made to work again at least as well as when new. Then, maybe
diligent maintenance can keep them 'sort of' working. That prospect
doesn't leave me too happy.

One of the weird things is the brake drums carry the wheel bearings
which are two sealed tapered roller type. It would seem this would
lead to some seriously hot bearings under hard braking - I've seen
drums glowing cherry red. It appeared to me there was heat damage to
the bearings.

There's no doubt electric brakes are the absolute best solution. I'm
certain a new axle with electric brakes can be made up to fit the
original mounting holes for a few hundred dollars and this new setup
would be far more reliable and require far less maintenance. Selling
the idea to the people who write the checks, however, will be tough.

June 14th 12, 04:49 AM
I put a Dexter axle with electric brakes on my Cobra works great. I also **** caned those cheap plastic fenders now I can sit on the fender and change my shoes and socks with out falling over.

Ron Gleason
June 14th 12, 07:13 PM
On Wednesday, 13 June 2012 21:49:51 UTC-6, (unknown) wrote:
> I put a Dexter axle with electric brakes on my Cobra works great. I also **** caned those cheap plastic fenders now I can sit on the fender and change my shoes and socks with out falling over.

I am trying to understand how electric brakes function when not plugged into the vehicle. Are the brakes 'on' when unplugged? How do you deal with grand handling the trailer if you want to move it manually? Sorry of these seem like simple questions but I am trying to determine a cheaper way to add brakes to my trailer. The ALKO axle was replaced with non-braked axle.

Thanks Ron Gleason

Papa3[_2_]
June 14th 12, 08:07 PM
On Thursday, June 14, 2012 2:13:51 PM UTC-4, Ron Gleason wrote:
> On Wednesday, 13 June 2012 21:49:51 UTC-6, (unknown) wrote:
> > I put a Dexter axle with electric brakes on my Cobra works great. I also **** caned those cheap plastic fenders now I can sit on the fender and change my shoes and socks with out falling over.
>
> I am trying to understand how electric brakes function when not plugged into the vehicle. Are the brakes 'on' when unplugged? How do you deal with grand handling the trailer if you want to move it manually? Sorry of these seem like simple questions but I am trying to determine a cheaper way to add brakes to my trailer. The ALKO axle was replaced with non-braked axle..
>
> Thanks Ron Gleason

Ron,

Dexter for one makes an electric brake with a manual parking brake option. It is actuated by a cable which has to be hooked up to a lever. I suspect that the existing handle on a Komet/Cobra would work well enough. I saw this on a friend's high-end bass boat trailer, and it was pretty impressive.

sisu1a
June 14th 12, 08:53 PM
> I am trying to understand how electric brakes function when not plugged into the vehicle. * Are the brakes 'on' when unplugged? *How do you deal with grand handling the trailer if you want to move it manually? *Sorry of these seem like simple questions but I am trying to determine a cheaper way to add brakes to my trailer. *The ALKO axle was replaced with non-braked axle.

Brakes are not on when unplugged, so there are no extra procedures to
moving an unhooked trailer. These setups do use a 'breakaway kit'
however, which is a self contained battery/charger (with built in
indicator lights)/cable actuator on the trailer itself, that locks
them up in the unlikely event of trailer separation. This allows one
to temporarily use it as an e-brake when you need it to stay put for a
bit (and like their surge brethren are not a substitute for common
sense and wheel chocks...), and also provide one of two ways to test
them for function, the other being manually engaging the brakes from
the cab of the vehicle once hooked up. Also provides a tidy power
source for trailer interior lighting... In all fairness, the e-brake
on surge setups can also be used for a test, which due to my bias I
tend to forget.

Most elec brake controllers have automatic function (typically a gyro
stabilized pendulum actuator) that make them work similar to surge
brakes (but with in-cab/on the fly adjustability and work while
backing up) but also include an override 'throttle' lever that allows
one to manually modulate them from starting voltage to full-on, and is
displayed on an LED allowing one to quickly calibrate to the volt/
stopping power. Most have adjustable settings for the initial grabbing
pressure (by changing the initiation voltage), and a toggle button to
bump it up to three different 'boost' levels on the fly (open road/
congested road/city driving) in addition to the manual throttle lever
for engaging the trailer's brakes independently of the towing vehicle
(great to reduce sway after trucks/crosswinds, minor adjustments for
traffic spacing, taming curvy downhill sections, etc, -all without
affecting cruise control settings or eating into the gas mileage)

There is no cheaper way to add brakes then electrics, if that's what
you mean. You may be able to have the brake flanges welded to your non
braked axle (are you sure they're not there already?), and then you
need two drum/hub/brake components (sold as a unit), wiring,
controller and breakaway kit, assuming your rims/tires are compatible
with the brake equipped drum.

Take note here folks, even if you have no intention of equipping your
trailer with electric brakes (assuming you're not clinging to your
surge-ys...), if you ever change an axle, for god's sake buy one with
effin brake flanges already on it. The cost difference is near
nothing, and if you never wind up installing them they work exactly
the same as an axle without the flanges on it...

-Paul

June 15th 12, 01:34 AM
Yes the brakes are inop when unplugged. I opted for the manual levers for the parking and breakaway function and adapted it to the brake lever so when I park I can engage with the Cobra parking lever on the draw bar. I also found some LED marker liters that bolted right up and tail kites that are very brite and have low amp draw.

Eric Greenwell[_4_]
June 15th 12, 06:05 AM
On 6/13/2012 7:56 AM, Grider Pirate wrote:

> I totally agree! Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
> surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
> My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
> it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.

My understanding is the brakes release when the wheels turns backward.
Doesn't that happen when you back up a hill?

I have 170,000 miles on my Cobra trailer, and I can't recall ever having
trouble backing up; however, I don't recall how steep the inclines were.
I did have dragging brakes on one side from misadjusting the brake on
that side, but I don't know if that is also possible with electric brakes.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
email me)

Bill D
June 15th 12, 02:30 PM
On Jun 14, 11:05*pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> On 6/13/2012 7:56 AM, Grider Pirate wrote:
>
> > I totally agree! *Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
> > surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
> > My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
> > it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.
>
> My understanding is the brakes release when the wheels turns backward.
> Doesn't that happen when you back up a hill?
>
> I have 170,000 miles on my Cobra trailer, and I can't recall ever having
> trouble backing up; however, I don't recall how steep the inclines were.
> I did have dragging brakes on one side from misadjusting the brake on
> that side, but I don't know if that is also possible with electric brakes..
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
> email me)

The Cobra brakes have the traditional "star wheel" which automatically
tightens up the brake adjustment when applied in reverse or when
backing up hills with a surge hitch. Surprisingly, the trailer shop
tech said there was no hole in the back plate for manually adjusting
the brakes.

As I understand it, the surge hitch has an air spring inside which
must be overpowered before the brakes come on. If this is working
properly, brakes shouldn't activate anytime except on hard braking.

Grider Pirate[_2_]
June 15th 12, 02:37 PM
On Jun 14, 10:05*pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> On 6/13/2012 7:56 AM, Grider Pirate wrote:
>
> > I totally agree! *Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
> > surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
> > My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
> > it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.
>
> My understanding is the brakes release when the wheels turns backward.
> Doesn't that happen when you back up a hill?
>
> I have 170,000 miles on my Cobra trailer, and I can't recall ever having
> trouble backing up; however, I don't recall how steep the inclines were.
> I did have dragging brakes on one side from misadjusting the brake on
> that side, but I don't know if that is also possible with electric brakes..
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
> email me)

Perhaps the Komet brakes work differently, but mine don't release.

JS
June 15th 12, 07:48 PM
Perhaps the boots sealing the cable ends on the trailer in question were removed or never installed, but it's likely a one-off.
In the handful of Cobra and Komet trailers I've owned so far, the properly maintained surge brakes have not been a problem.
Paul, perhaps if you want German manufacturers to use electric brakes which nobody in the rest of the World uses, you should also campaign for 4-wire trailer lighting which nobody else in the World uses? Start by applying to the European equivalent of DOT for approval in your spare time.
ALKO in Indiana sell replacement axles for German trailers with different brake options. Dexter have options. You can buy a German mechanical brake axle or many of the parts involved from Williams Soaring.
Jim

Peter Scholz[_3_]
June 15th 12, 11:15 PM
Am 15.06.2012 15:30, Bill D wrote:
> On Jun 14, 11:05 pm, Eric > wrote:
>> On 6/13/2012 7:56 AM, Grider Pirate wrote:
>>
>>> I totally agree! Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
>>> surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
>>> My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
>>> it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.
>>
>> My understanding is the brakes release when the wheels turns backward.
>> Doesn't that happen when you back up a hill?
>>
>> I have 170,000 miles on my Cobra trailer, and I can't recall ever having
>> trouble backing up; however, I don't recall how steep the inclines were.
>> I did have dragging brakes on one side from misadjusting the brake on
>> that side, but I don't know if that is also possible with electric brakes.
>>
>> --
>> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
>> email me)
>
> The Cobra brakes have the traditional "star wheel" which automatically
> tightens up the brake adjustment when applied in reverse or when
> backing up hills with a surge hitch. Surprisingly, the trailer shop
> tech said there was no hole in the back plate for manually adjusting
> the brakes.
>

There are a few axle/brake system manufacturers on the market that may
work different in how to adjust, You can get detailed drawings and
instructions for almost all systems, all you need for that is the brake
type (you find that usually on a small type plate riveted onto the brake
base plate, near where the cable goes inside the brake), If you tell me
the type of your brake, I can give you a link to the drawings and tell
you more about it. I have worked with those brake system for several
decades on different trailers, and I can tell you for sure it is not
rocket sience, and usually very easy to fix.

> As I understand it, the surge hitch has an air spring inside which
> must be overpowered before the brakes come on. If this is working
> properly, brakes shouldn't activate anytime except on hard braking.

It is not a air spring, it is just a damper. If on a hard brake your
trailer quickly changes between full brake and no brake, that damper is
no longer working and has to be replaced. Takes about one hour of work
if you know how to do it.

--
Peter Scholz
ASW24 JE

Peter Scholz[_3_]
June 15th 12, 11:19 PM
Am 15.06.2012 15:37, Grider Pirate wrote:
> On Jun 14, 10:05 pm, Eric > wrote:
>> On 6/13/2012 7:56 AM, Grider Pirate wrote:
>>
>>> I totally agree! Ever tried to back up a hill with your mechanical
>>> surge brakes?? Good luck with that!
>>> My tow vehicle weighs roughly 5 times my trailer with the glider in
>>> it. I don't really think brakes are all that helpful.
>>
>> My understanding is the brakes release when the wheels turns backward.
>> Doesn't that happen when you back up a hill?
>>
>> I have 170,000 miles on my Cobra trailer, and I can't recall ever having
>> trouble backing up; however, I don't recall how steep the inclines were.
>> I did have dragging brakes on one side from misadjusting the brake on
>> that side, but I don't know if that is also possible with electric brakes.
>>
>> --
>> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
>> email me)
>
> Perhaps the Komet brakes work differently, but mine don't release.

This is normally due to wrong settings of the brake adjustment or some
parts inside the brake have corroded. Usually it is easy to fix, and I
can give you detailed isntructrions yif you give me the exact brake
type/manufacturer (look at the brake type plate near where the brake
cable goes into the brake)
--
Peter Scholz
ASW24 JE

June 16th 12, 04:11 PM
3 years ago, when a spring broke on my Schreder trailer, I knew it was time to replace everything.

I bought a new 2000 lb Reliable Rubber Torsion Axel, turbo-lube hubs, wheels, and radial trailer tires from Northern Tool. It all came right to my door. The cost was under $600.00. I had some custom welding done to get it to fit the trailer and spread out the load better.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_trailers-trailer-parts

I had the wheels spin balanced at a tire shop.

No need to worry about brakes. The trailer tows straight and does not sway at speeds up to 90 mph. It gives the glider a great ride. Standard American wheel bolt pattern and tire sizes so finding replacements is easy.

Steve Rathbun –R5

Eric Greenwell[_4_]
June 17th 12, 01:12 AM
On 6/15/2012 6:30 AM, Bill D wrote:
> The Cobra brakes have the traditional "star wheel" which automatically
> tightens up the brake adjustment when applied in reverse or when
> backing up hills with a surge hitch. Surprisingly, the trailer shop
> tech said there was no hole in the back plate for manually adjusting
> the brakes.

My 17 year old Cobra axle does not have self-adjusting brakes (they are
manual adjust only), and the brakes released automatically if the
trailer was backed up. This feature - automatic release - is why Cobra
trailers have a wheel chock mounted on each fender: you are supposed to
chock the back of each wheel when you are using only the parking brake,
otherwise the trailer can turn in the wind.

My 3 year old Cobra axles has exactly the same braking system: no
automatic brake adjust (manual adjust only), and releases the brakes
when backing up.

I suspect all Cobras have the manual adjustment opening, but the trailer
tech missed it on your trailer.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
email me)

Terry Walsh
June 17th 12, 08:08 AM
At 00:12 17 June 2012, Eric Greenwell wrote:
>On 6/15/2012 6:30 AM, Bill D wrote:
>> The Cobra brakes have the traditional "star wheel" which automatically
>> tightens up the brake adjustment when applied in reverse or when
>> backing up hills with a surge hitch. Surprisingly, the trailer shop
>> tech said there was no hole in the back plate for manually adjusting
>> the brakes.
>
>My 17 year old Cobra axle does not have self-adjusting brakes (they are
>manual adjust only), and the brakes released automatically if the
>trailer was backed up. This feature - automatic release - is why Cobra
>trailers have a wheel chock mounted on each fender: you are supposed to
>chock the back of each wheel when you are using only the parking brake,
>otherwise the trailer can turn in the wind.
>
>My 3 year old Cobra axles has exactly the same braking system: no
>automatic brake adjust (manual adjust only), and releases the brakes
>when backing up.
>
>I suspect all Cobras have the manual adjustment opening, but the trailer
tech missed it on your trailer.
>
>--
>Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
>email me)
>

The following is a link to a pdf document which describes the operation
and adjustment of the Alko brakes as used on Cobra Trailers. I have not
heard of many complaints against this system here in the UK and have not
seen many if any glider trailers using electric brakes.

http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/handbooks/overrun-braking-system-handbook.pdf

Terry Walsh

Peter Scholz[_3_]
June 18th 12, 07:31 AM
Am 17.06.2012 09:08, Terry Walsh wrote:
> At 00:12 17 June 2012, Eric Greenwell wrote:
>> On 6/15/2012 6:30 AM, Bill D wrote:
>>> The Cobra brakes have the traditional "star wheel" which automatically
>>> tightens up the brake adjustment when applied in reverse or when
>>> backing up hills with a surge hitch. Surprisingly, the trailer shop
>>> tech said there was no hole in the back plate for manually adjusting
>>> the brakes.
>>
>> My 17 year old Cobra axle does not have self-adjusting brakes (they are
>> manual adjust only), and the brakes released automatically if the
>> trailer was backed up. This feature - automatic release - is why Cobra
>> trailers have a wheel chock mounted on each fender: you are supposed to
>> chock the back of each wheel when you are using only the parking brake,
>> otherwise the trailer can turn in the wind.
>>
>> My 3 year old Cobra axles has exactly the same braking system: no
>> automatic brake adjust (manual adjust only), and releases the brakes
>> when backing up.
>>
>> I suspect all Cobras have the manual adjustment opening, but the trailer
> tech missed it on your trailer.
>>
>> --
>> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to
>> email me)
>>
>
> The following is a link to a pdf document which describes the operation
> and adjustment of the Alko brakes as used on Cobra Trailers. I have not
> heard of many complaints against this system here in the UK and have not
> seen many if any glider trailers using electric brakes.
>
> http://www.al-ko.co.uk/edit/files/handbooks/overrun-braking-system-handbook.pdf
>
> Terry Walsh
>

Excelent manual that describes everything you need to know. Following
these instructions will guarantee a working brake system on your
trailer. Thanks for the link.

And BTW, the wheel chocks on the trailers are legally required in
Germany, so you will find them also on trailers that do not have an
automated reversing feature.
--
Peter Scholz
ASW24 JE

June 18th 12, 01:29 PM
On Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:52:11 AM UTC-4, Bill D wrote:
> FYI...
>
> The Cobra trailer for one of the two CAP ASK-21's had developed a
> problem with the left tire and had a tendency to sway. The tire was
> deteriorating rapidly, wearing on one side with severe cupping. The
> tires were relatively new trailer rated bias ply. Theories ranged
> from a bent axle to a bad tire with misaligned belting.
>
> A trip to a professional trailer shop uncovered the real cause -
> jammed left brake. The Cobra's surge brakes are purely mechanical
> with a push-pull rod from the hitch to near the axle where two cables
> run to the drum brakes. The left cable had become jammed with dirt
> and wasn't releasing the brake causing it to drag until it could
> barely roll. The asymmetrical braking was contributing to the
> swaying.
>
> There are no dust boots on the cable housing to keep dirt out so this
> is likely to be a recurring problem.
>
> All the towing vehicles have electric brake controllers installed so
> I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.

Bill- could you please provide a bit more detail on where the cable got jammed.
Was it where it enters the guide at the center? My trailers have little wiper boots there- did yours, or were they worn out?
Second- what damage was incurred that could not be repaired?
Thanks for the info.
UH

Bill D
June 18th 12, 02:23 PM
On Jun 18, 6:29*am, wrote:
> On Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:52:11 AM UTC-4, Bill D wrote:
> > FYI...
>
> > The Cobra trailer for one of the two CAP ASK-21's had developed a
> > problem with the left tire and had a tendency to sway. *The tire was
> > deteriorating rapidly, wearing on one side with severe cupping. *The
> > tires were relatively new trailer rated bias ply. *Theories ranged
> > from a bent axle to a bad tire with misaligned belting.
>
> > A trip to a professional trailer shop uncovered the real cause -
> > jammed left brake. *The Cobra's surge brakes are purely mechanical
> > with a push-pull rod from the hitch to near the axle where two cables
> > run to the drum brakes. *The left cable had become jammed with dirt
> > and wasn't releasing the brake causing it to drag until it could
> > barely roll. *The asymmetrical braking was contributing to the
> > swaying.
>
> > There are no dust boots on the cable housing to keep dirt out so this
> > is likely to be a recurring problem.
>
> > All the towing vehicles have electric brake controllers installed so
> > I'm campaigning for converting the Cobra trailers to electric brakes.
>
> Bill- could you please provide a bit more detail on where the cable got jammed.
> Was it where it enters the guide at the center? My trailers have little wiper boots there- did yours, or were they worn out?
> Second- what damage was incurred that could not be repaired?
> Thanks for the info.
> UH

This is second hand in that I have an aversion to crawling under
trailers with the cactus and stinging insects (and occasional
diamondback). The mechanic at the trailer shop said the cable housing
was jammed full of road dirt and there are no boots to prevent more of
it getting in. This leads me to suspect the boots aged out or were
removed and not re-installed by some previous mechanic.

I also suspect the damper inside the tongue is shot even though it was
replaced three years ago. There is a very annoying "clunk" on braking
and acceleration as the tongue slides in and out.

I take it the statement from the trailer shop manager who said "It
can't be fixed" really meant HE couldn't fit it since the system is
German in origin. I don't doubt it's fairly easy to restore the
braking system to the point it works as well as new. I'm just not
sure I'll be happy with that especially since it will be ME keeping it
working.

These trailers live and operate in a far harsher environment than
Spindleburger imagined.

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