Crack canopy at the sliding glass screw hole.

[Tim Murphy[_2_]]

Does anyone know someone that is good at fixing cracked canopies.Need help getting it fixed,don't want to do it my self.

[SoaringXCellence]

On Sunday, October 13, 2013 7:10:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Murphy wrote:
> Does anyone know someone that is good at fixing cracked canopies.Need help getting it fixed,don't want to do it my self.

Tim,

Let's have a little more information: where are you and how far do you want to travel for the work to be done?

[[email protected]]

I live middle tennessee and will drive up to 300 miles.

[son_of_flubber]

Canopy maintenance question...

I have a chip (about 1/8" X 3/8") on the edge of the canopy where it meets the forward edge of the sliding window. The chip does not go all the way through the thickness of the canopy.

I'm thinking that a crack might eventually develop from this chip and that maybe I should sand the chip smooth or put a dab of "glue" on the chipped edge?? Both? Or should I just leave it alone?

Since the glider is new_to_me I do not know how long the chip has been there or how it happened. I don't know if the chip happened while I was owner of the glider or before.

Suggestions welcome. What glue to use, etc..?

[[email protected]]

I would suggest using Acrifix 192.

http://www.acrylglasprofi.de/Produktseite/Produktbeschreibung%20ACRIFIX%20192.pdf

[SoaringXCellence]

There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair.. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.

Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease.

Mike

[Dave Martin[_3_]]

There is only one cement for perspex that is two part:

Tensol 70 with a hardener.

Then a Micromesh kit from Wings and Wheels for polishing.

Tensol 70 works by dissolving the two sides of the crack, then
setting hard and basically forms new perspex.

Tensol 12 a similar adhesive will stick but has no strength. Other
acrylic adhesives will stick but again have no strength.
As SXC says below its should be taken with care and plenty of
caution. It is liquid and runs and as it sets form strings and they
stick to canopies. so care and masking.

The process is simple, time consuming and requires infinite
patience. Space does not permit a full description of how to do
it. But small cracks are well within the scope of an owner.

The first step is to drill the end of the crack with a fine drill. or
hot needle. To stop it spreading. A red hot needle will give some
form of seal.

Dave





At 21:58 14 October 2013, SoaringXCellence wrote:
>There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt
the
>materia=
>l. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic
needle to
>wick=
> it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will
easily
>dri=
>bble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good
distance via
>=
>capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting
them fuse
>tog=
>ether. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the
needle until you
>=
>are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to
prevent
>th=
>e solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't
want to
>repair=
>.. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens,
let it dry
>=
>completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something
similar. You
>sho=
>uld orient the canopy so that you can work from above the
surface, with
>the=
> crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work
from the
>i=
>nside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the
inner
>surf=
>ace.
>
>Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I
always go
>ver=
>y slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I
know about
>th=
>e "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes
think the cure is
>w=
>orse than the disease.
>
>Mike
>

[Craig Funston[_2_]]

On Monday, October 14, 2013 12:09:06 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> I would suggest using Acrifix 192.
>
>
>
> http://www.acrylglasprofi.de/Produktseite/Produktbeschreibung%20ACRIFIX%20192.pdf

Acrifix 2R 0190 is the two component version. The straight 190 relies on UV for the cure.
http://www.acrifix.com/product/acrifix/en/products/reaction-adhesives/acrifix-2r-0190/pages/default.aspx

It's listed on Wings and Wheels website

[Tim Murphy[_2_]]

On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
> There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.
>
>
>
> Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease.
>
>
>
> Mike

So where are you located and Are u still fixing them?

[Tim Murphy[_2_]]

On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
> There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.
>
>
>
> Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease.
>
>
>
> Mike

Thanks for all the inputs you Guys.Is there anyone that i can take it or send the canopy to that can repair it for me?

[Tim Murphy[_2_]]

On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, SoaringXCellence wrote:
> There are liquid acrylic "cements", actually solvents that melt the material. I have used it in the past, with a VERY small hypodermic needle to wick it into the crack. The solvent has very low viscosity and will easily dribble out of the tube. a very small amount will travel a good distance via capillary action, into the crack and soften the edges letting them fuse together. Keep something like a cloth under the point of the needle until you are really ready to start the wicking into the crack. this is to prevent the solvent from dribbling onto the canopy in places you don't want to repair. NEVER try to wipe off the dribble (BAD smear), if it happens, let it dry completely, and polish it out with Micro-Mesh or something similar. You should orient the canopy so that you can work from above the surface, with the crack parallel the horizon, to prevent running. I usually work from the inside, that helps to contain the solvent in the concavity of the inner surface.
>
>
>
> Having said all this, and having repaired several canopies, I always go very slowly and cautiously when even considering the attempt. I know about the "dribbles" and smears from experience and I sometimes think the cure is worse than the disease.
>
>
>
> Mike

[Frank Whiteley]

I've used this and it works very well. I don't find it available in the USA, but it appears to be available for export. There may be health or EPA reasons it's not available here. The trick with this is the balance between pot time and letting the bubbles rise out before application. It's a short window.

Acrifix 192 works well also, but I think the Tensol 70 is better. As Acrifix 192 cures with UV, you need a light or the ability to work outside on a sunny day.

Both require finishing kits. Although I was satisfied with my repairs, I've seen some brilliant examples where the cracks virtually vanished. Takes a lot work to do that.

Frank Whiteley

On Monday, October 14, 2013 5:27:45 PM UTC-6, Dave Martin wrote:
> There is only one cement for perspex that is two part:
>
>
>
> Tensol 70 with a hardener.
>
>
>
> Then a Micromesh kit from Wings and Wheels for polishing.
>
>
>
> Tensol 70 works by dissolving the two sides of the crack, then
>
> setting hard and basically forms new perspex.
>
>
>
> Tensol 12 a similar adhesive will stick but has no strength. Other
>
> acrylic adhesives will stick but again have no strength.
>
> As SXC says below its should be taken with care and plenty of
>
> caution. It is liquid and runs and as it sets form strings and they
>
> stick to canopies. so care and masking.
>
>
>
> The process is simple, time consuming and requires infinite
>
> patience. Space does not permit a full description of how to do
>
> it. But small cracks are well within the scope of an owner.
>
>
>
> The first step is to drill the end of the crack with a fine drill. or
>
> hot needle. To stop it spreading. A red hot needle will give some
>
> form of seal.
>
>
>
> Dave
>

[son_of_flubber]

Yes but...

Do chips at the edge of the window cutout in the canopy tend to develop into cracks, or can they be ignored?

If they are a future problem, how should they dealt with before the crack develops?

"Stitch in time, saves nine."

[Dave Martin[_3_]]

Probable answer is yes and no depends how you treat your
canopy and the size of the chip.

If they are small leave. maybe dress down the edges with very
very fine wet and dry. To prevent catching them.


If large use Tensol 70, Make a dam round the chip use blue tack
to form a reservoir and fill the dam. Then when set hard at least
a couple -- maybe a few days, polish out with wet and dry.

A micromesh kit is a good piece of equipment for your tool box
It contains the correct grit wet and dry and liquid polish
Perspex polishing is not difficult it just requires time and
patience with plenty of water. Polish in straight lines change
direction by 45 degrees as you change grit and keep the area as
small as possible. Use a hard foam pad especially on inside
curves.

One answer is to stop reaching through canopy windows

Dave

At 12:16 15 October 2013, son_of_flubber wrote:
>Yes but...
>
>Do chips at the edge of the window cutout in the canopy tend
to develop
>into cracks, or can they be ignored?
>
>If they are a future problem, how should they dealt with before
the crack
>develops?
>
>"Stitch in time, saves nine."
>

[Mike C]

On Monday, October 14, 2013 7:14:11 PM UTC-6, Craig Funston wrote:
> On Monday, October 14, 2013 12:09:06 PM UTC-7, wrote:
>
> > I would suggest using Acrifix 192.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > http://www.acrylglasprofi.de/Produktseite/Produktbeschreibung%20ACRIFIX%20192.pdf
>
>
>
> Acrifix 2R 0190 is the two component version. The straight 190 relies on UV for the cure.
>
> http://www.acrifix.com/product/acrifix/en/products/reaction-adhesives/acrifix-2r-0190/pages/default.aspx
>
>
>
> It's listed on Wings and Wheels website

I have used ACRYFIX 2R0190 and it works very well. Like it better than the single component version, I thought that it cured quicker with less shrinkage.