Benchtops & Shelving

[Jim Weir]

I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar. After a lifetime of
building "manly" workbenches out of DF 4x4s milled to take 2x4 crossmembers, and
having the concomitant rot and deterioration of wood, I'm considering making the
framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The problem is what to use
for the bench tops and shelving underneath.

So far, all my "heavy duty" workbenches have been made out of 3/4" plywood with
a 2" doubler plate along the front and back, and my electronic workbenches have
been either solid core or hollow core doors with an appropriate varnish or Deft
coating on them.

However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.

Thoughts appreciated.

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

[Gary Thomas]

Jim Weir wrote:
>
> I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar. After a lifetime of
> building "manly" workbenches out of DF 4x4s milled to take 2x4 crossmembers, and
> having the concomitant rot and deterioration of wood, I'm considering making the
> framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The problem is what to use
> for the bench tops and shelving underneath.
>
> So far, all my "heavy duty" workbenches have been made out of 3/4" plywood with
> a 2" doubler plate along the front and back, and my electronic workbenches have
> been either solid core or hollow core doors with an appropriate varnish or Deft
> coating on them.
>
> However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> Jim
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

Just out of curiosity what's wrong with "manly" workbenches? And why
would DF 4x4's
rot away during your lifetime in a hanger that one presumes is dry
enough to do good
work on an airplane and/or anything else? I'd stick with the "manly"
frame and use
replaceable particle board tops. When driving something apart with a
"meanit" hammer
there's nothing like a good stout structure underneath. Shelving and
storage
compartments can be lighter duty but a workbench is for WORK. The first
time you set
something heavy on that pvc base you'll remember with fondness those old
"manly" benches:-)

Gary Thomas

[Mike Z.]

My favorite bench is still 2x4 legs, 2- 2x6 stringers under the top (add a couple cross braces) a top glued up of about 3-4 layers
of particle board to around 2+ inches thick. Then just nail a couple cross pieces in the legs and lay on a shelf.

Build it like a dock. Fast, easy, sturdy as heck and pretty cheap. You can stiffen up the shelf with a 2x4 glued and nailed on each
edge so it won't sag.

Probably can't in your hanger but even easier if you can nail or screw one stringer to the wall.

Mike Z

"Jim Weir" > wrote in message ...
> I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar. After a lifetime of
> building "manly" workbenches out of DF 4x4s milled to take 2x4 crossmembers, and
> having the concomitant rot and deterioration of wood, I'm considering making the
> framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The problem is what to use
> for the bench tops and shelving underneath.
>
> So far, all my "heavy duty" workbenches have been made out of 3/4" plywood with
> a 2" doubler plate along the front and back, and my electronic workbenches have
> been either solid core or hollow core doors with an appropriate varnish or Deft
> coating on them.
>
> However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> Jim
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Del Rawlins]

In > Jim Weir wrote:

> However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts
> on what you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches
> will be about 2' wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon
> would be best, but quick and cheap is high on the list of attributes
> I'm looking for.

I know you are looking for something other than wood, but these are my
favorite workbenches:

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

Cheap will depend on the cost of materials in your locality, but as for
quick I can knock out 3-4 of these in an afternoon/evening. I like to
paint them with cheap latex house paint more to make them easier to
clean rather than prevent rot. If they start to get messed up you can
just run a sander over the tops and paint them again. If you want a
special benchtop just lay some mdf over the top and when it gets messed
up, turn it over.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

[B2431]

>From: Jim Weir

>
>I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar. After a lifetime
>of
>building "manly" workbenches out of DF 4x4s milled to take 2x4 crossmembers,
>and
>having the concomitant rot and deterioration of wood, I'm considering making
>the
>framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The problem is what to
>use
>for the bench tops and shelving underneath.
>
>So far, all my "heavy duty" workbenches have been made out of 3/4" plywood
>with
>a 2" doubler plate along the front and back, and my electronic workbenches
>have
>been either solid core or hollow core doors with an appropriate varnish or
>Deft
>coating on them.
>
>However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on
>what
>you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
>wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
>and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
>
>Thoughts appreciated.
>
>Jim

As for the top a removable surface is nice. My bench has 2 layers of 1/2"
plywood glued together (it was free) and a layer of masonite screwed on on top.
If the surface gets damaged or wears I can easily remove and replace it. If I
were using it only for electronics I'd just lay a sheet of linoleum or similar
using no screws or glue. The frame of my bench is rabitted to accept the top so
the linoleum would not slide off if I used it. You can just lift it out to
replace it.

Dan, U. S. Air Force, retired

[Bill Daniels]

"Jim Weir" > wrote in message
...
> I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar. After a
lifetime of
> building "manly" workbenches out of DF 4x4s milled to take 2x4
crossmembers, and
> having the concomitant rot and deterioration of wood, I'm considering
making the
> framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The problem is what
to use
> for the bench tops and shelving underneath.
>
> So far, all my "heavy duty" workbenches have been made out of 3/4" plywood
with
> a 2" doubler plate along the front and back, and my electronic workbenches
have
> been either solid core or hollow core doors with an appropriate varnish or
Deft
> coating on them.
>
> However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on
what
> you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about
2'
> wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but
quick
> and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> Jim
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

The best workbench top I have ever seen was an old bowling alley. It seems
that a local alley was damaged by fire but several of the alleys survived.
A friend of mine talked the insurance company into giving him the alleys if
he would remove them to clear the site for rebuilding.

It took a lot of friends with chain saws and a rented truck with a crane but
two of the alleys made it back to his shop and became spar benches. They
were dead flat, about 6" thick, and made of very hard laminated wood. They
sat on welded 2" square steel tube frames. My friend is long dead but the
work benches are probably still in use.

Bill Daniels

[Jim Weir]

Oooookay, let me try again.

What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?

I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might want
to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a Harbor
Freight benchtop drill press.

Jim



Jim Weir >
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
->
->Thoughts appreciated.


Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

[G.R. Patterson III]

Jim Weir wrote:
>
> I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar.

Well, if the stuff is rotting on you, I would go to pressure-treated pine and
stick with the construction you usually use.

I've also found it impossible to get decent hollow-core doors these days. They
used to make the inexpensive ones out of luan plywood, but the stuff we get on
the dirty side is all masonite with a woodgrain finish these days. I've got
nothing against masonite, but the glue doesn't hold and they're way too flimsy
to use for tables.

That said, the last bench I built was put together from a set of plastic legs
that HD was discontinuing (on sale at $25) and a sheet of 3/4" particle board.
My lathe is on it now.

George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way that
you look forward to the trip.

[G.R. Patterson III]

Jim Weir wrote:
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?

Sorry, I misunderstood. Since you put it that way, none. I do have an old table
saw base and top that I use for metalwork, but I think you will not find one
that's six feet long. Anything else I can think of is either too flimsy or has
a wooden base structure (like Formica kitchen countertops).

George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way that
you look forward to the trip.

[[email protected]]

In rec.aviation.owning Jim Weir > wrote:
> Oooookay, let me try again.

> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?

> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might want
> to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a Harbor
> Freight benchtop drill press.

> Jim



> Jim Weir >
> shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

> ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> ->
> ->Thoughts appreciated.


> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

Well, I have a couple I covered with thin (about 16 Ga) sheet steel.

When I want a "soft" top, I drop a piece of plywood on top.

Of course, they are supported by a welded 1 inch steel tube frame, not
PVC pipe and spot welded to the frame.

The sheet steel was given to me and the steel tube cost about $30.

Got any friends in the scrap metal business?

--
Jim Pennino

Remove -spam-sux to reply.

[Don Tuite]

Has anybody mentioned prefabbed kitchen countertops?

I know, particleboard underneath. But if they don't rot out around
your sink, they must be pretty rot-proof.

Don

[G.R. Patterson III]

Don Tuite wrote:
>
> I know, particleboard underneath. But if they don't rot out around
> your sink, they must be pretty rot-proof.

They don't rot, but they will swell and disintegrate if they stay wet. They
stay together because the installer uses various tricks to make sure the water
stays where it's supposed to be.

George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way that
you look forward to the trip.

[Cy Galley]

Dip the ends of the legs in penta preservative and your rot problems are
over. If you can pick up your present benches, it can still be done.


"Jim Weir" > wrote in message
...
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?
>
> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might
want
> to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
Harbor
> Freight benchtop drill press.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> Jim Weir >
> shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
>
> ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts
on what
> ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be
about 2'
> ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but
quick
> ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> ->
> ->Thoughts appreciated.
>
>
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Cy Galley]

One thing that works very well are Formica kitchen counter tops. Find a
counter top place that removes old tops and you can get them fairly cheap.
They also may have some mistakes or customer rejections with wrong color
and dimensions that they will sell just to get rid of them.


"Jim Weir" > wrote in message
...
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?
>
> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might
want
> to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
Harbor
> Freight benchtop drill press.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> Jim Weir >
> shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
>
> ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts
on what
> ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be
about 2'
> ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but
quick
> ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> ->
> ->Thoughts appreciated.
>
>
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Jerry Wass]

1/4" steel plate works pretty good, you can glue down a thin short-nap outdoor
carpet,(or indoor for that matter)---that keeps screws etc from bouncing off onto
the floor--Kinda makes it hard to drive nails in, but It ain't wood!!

Jim Weir wrote:

> I'm about to start building the "furniture" for the hangar. After a lifetime of
> building "manly" workbenches out of DF 4x4s milled to take 2x4 crossmembers, and
> having the concomitant rot and deterioration of wood, I'm considering making the
> framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The problem is what to use
> for the bench tops and shelving underneath.
>
> So far, all my "heavy duty" workbenches have been made out of 3/4" plywood with
> a 2" doubler plate along the front and back, and my electronic workbenches have
> been either solid core or hollow core doors with an appropriate varnish or Deft
> coating on them.
>
> However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> Jim
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[[email protected]]

On 3-Mar-2004, Gary Thomas > wrote:

> Just out of curiosity what's wrong with "manly" workbenches? And why
> would DF 4x4's rot away during your lifetime in a hanger that one presumes
> is dry
> enough to do good work on an airplane and/or anything else? I'd stick
> with the "manly"
> frame and use replaceable particle board tops.


I agree. 25 years ago I built a workbench in my unheated garage. It has a
framework of untreated 2X4s and a screwed-down benchtop of 3/4 inch particle
board. Legs are 4X4s. Despite our damp Pacific Northwest climate, it seems
as strong today as when it was built.

--
-Elliott Drucker

[Del Rawlins]

In > Jim Weir wrote:
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
> work?
>
> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I
> might want to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill
> it with a Harbor Freight benchtop drill press.

The imported drill press may be a POS and undeserving of a nice bench
but it is still heavy and will hurt when it lands on your foot. Even my
substantially built lumber and plywood benches shift around more than I
would like during small forming tasks (yeah, I could bolt them down but
my small shop needs to be readily reconfigurable).

Out of curiosity, how long did your lumber workbenches last before they
rotted out?

8^)

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

[Mike Z.]

Well ok, but I like a bench I can bolt a vise to and beat the crap out of whatever is clamped in it without the bench changing
hangers.

Sounds more like you just need one of those stainless work tables from Sam's Club. (or are they just chrome?)

Or....hmmm, everything synthetic I can think of costs too much.

Mike

"Jim Weir" > wrote in message ...
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?
>
> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might want
> to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a Harbor
> Freight benchtop drill press.
>
> Jim
>

[Dick Meade]

"Jim Weir" > wrote in message
...
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?
>
> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might
want
> to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
Harbor
> Freight benchtop drill press.
>

8" C-purlin, 3 wide. Weld or bolt together. Cheap, sturdy and ugly as
hell. The radius between purlin is the only drawback, but it does keep
small parts from rolling off the back.

Dick

[G.R. Patterson III]

Del Rawlins wrote:
>
> Even my
> substantially built lumber and plywood benches shift around more than I
> would like during small forming tasks (yeah, I could bolt them down but
> my small shop needs to be readily reconfigurable).

I had the same problem with my main woodworking bench, which has a maple
"butcher block" top and rock maple legs. I took care of it for the most part
by building a removable cabinet for my small power tools that fits on the leg
stretchers. This only covers half the stretcher area, so I added a shelf on
the other half. Two loaded machinist's tool boxes on the shelf keep the bench
down pretty well.

If you don't have enough heavy stuff to do the job, a few bags of sand would
work just as well.

George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way that
you look forward to the trip.

[Jerry Wass]

Cy, Can you still find Pentachlorophenol ?? I thought the do-gooders outlawed
it.
But if you try a Farm &Ranch store they might have something.. S'funny,
everything I now like is either Illegal, Immoral, or fattening!

Cy Galley wrote:

> Dip the ends of the legs in penta preservative and your rot problems are
> over. If you can pick up your present benches, it can still be done.
>
> "Jim Weir" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Oooookay, let me try again.
> >
> > What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
> work?
> >
> > I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might
> want
> > to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
> Harbor
> > Freight benchtop drill press.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Weir >
> > shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
> >
> > ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts
> on what
> > ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be
> about 2'
> > ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but
> quick
> > ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> > ->
> > ->Thoughts appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> > VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> > http://www.rst-engr.com

[GeorgeB]

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 12:06:03 -0800, Jim Weir > wrote:

>I'm considering making the
>framing out of 1¼ PVC Schedule 40 pipe and fittings.

Since you left "cosidering" in here, I'd give some thought to using
EMT ... inexpensive, and stiffer, and fittings are easily obtained to
do lots of what youwould need.

> The problem is what to use
>for the bench tops and shelving underneath.

Thickness gives stiffness .... your hollow core door blanks sound
good. I've seen rolls and sheets of polyethylene that is fairly
thick, maybe .050 to .125 inch that would make a good waterproof
covering.

[nauga]

Jim Weir wrote...

> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
work?

NONLUMBER? For a 2'x6' top? Shoot, Home Despot has marble for, like,
$70/sf. Steel's probably too expensive too. If it doesn't have
to be super rigid you might try 0.064 AL. The short answer
is there probably isn't anything readily available and cheap.
Bricks, maybe, or patio pavers.

Me, I'd use plywood and slather epoxy on it. That's what
I do already. Whenever I have leftovers I just dump it on
one bench in particular and squeegee it over the top.
But that's not what you asked.

Dave 'hardtop' Hyde

[Blueskies]

Cast some concrete in a 2" form?

How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.



--
Dan D.



..
"Jim Weir" > wrote in message ...
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?
>
> I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might want
> to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a Harbor
> Freight benchtop drill press.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> Jim Weir >
> shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
>
> ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> ->
> ->Thoughts appreciated.
>
>
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[G.R. Patterson III]

Blueskies wrote:
>
> How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.

I used those on the last deck I built. It's like working with spaghetti. You'd
need lots of reinforcement, and it won't take any punishment.

George Patterson
A diplomat is a person who can tell you to go to hell in such a way that
you look forward to the trip.

[Don Tuite]

On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 03:27:40 GMT, "G.R. Patterson III"
> wrote:

>
>
>Blueskies wrote:
>>
>> How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.
>
>I used those on the last deck I built. It's like working with spaghetti. You'd
>need lots of reinforcement, and it won't take any punishment.
>
Trek? I'd have said it's like working with slippery iron and you need
a truss (for the hernia you'll get from lifting it). DO NOT BUILD
AIRPLANES OUT OF THIS STUFF. (ObContent)

Don

[Richard Lamb]

Don Tuite wrote:
>
> On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 03:27:40 GMT, "G.R. Patterson III"
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Blueskies wrote:
> >>
> >> How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.
> >
> >I used those on the last deck I built. It's like working with spaghetti. You'd
> >need lots of reinforcement, and it won't take any punishment.
> >
> Trek? I'd have said it's like working with slippery iron and you need
> a truss (for the hernia you'll get from lifting it). DO NOT BUILD
> AIRPLANES OUT OF THIS STUFF. (ObContent)
>
> Don

I'm building some walls in the shop using steel studs.

Light steel sections (maybe .020 thick?) rolled into the most
beautiful beams, channels, other odd shapes...

All three times too heavy.


Richard

[Leon McAtee]

Jim Weir > wrote in message >...
> Oooookay, let me try again.
>
> What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?
>

What are your operating parameters? How sturdy? Chemical resistance?
Impact resistance? Easy to clean? Non static? Humidity resistant
(no rot or rust)?

My favorite work bench is part of an old restaurant. 1" galvanized
steel structure, 14 ga stainless top with a nice rounded lip on the
back to keep things from rolling off. The only thing that I could
never clean off was some oil from a MB diesel. Nasty stuff. The oil
not the Merc.

[Corrie]

> However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.

Restaurant supply houses that specialize in used equipment will have
stainless steel tables. Size / price / condition will vary. Might be
able to find a butcher's table. I suspect that it's a sheet of
teflon-like stuff (those white plastic cutting boards) laid over SS.

Plexiglas / Lexan? You could stiffen it up with bracing on the
underside.

Foam board used for insulating houses and some a/c designs? You can
get it thick for stiffness, though it won't handle beating on. It'll
take pins well if you're building balsa models or laying out wiring
harnesses. Just don't try to solder on it. <;-^

Corian / synthetic stone counters. Not cheap, unless you can find one
salvaged or scrap. Some towns have architectural recycling centers
where you can get pre-owned building materials cheap. (Might even
find some old luan doors.) They might have a counter top or two;
likewise the manufacuter or an installer might have a damaged or
customer-rejected one they'd unload at cost.

Why do you want a non-wood top, anyway?

[Cy Galley]

You may be right but I still have most of a gallon in the garage. Just don't
tell the bunnyhuggers!

"Jerry Wass" > wrote in message
...
> Cy, Can you still find Pentachlorophenol ?? I thought the do-gooders
outlawed
> it.
> But if you try a Farm &Ranch store they might have something.. S'funny,
> everything I now like is either Illegal, Immoral, or fattening!
>
> Cy Galley wrote:
>
> > Dip the ends of the legs in penta preservative and your rot problems are
> > over. If you can pick up your present benches, it can still be done.
> >
> > "Jim Weir" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Oooookay, let me try again.
> > >
> > > What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might
> > work?
> > >
> > > I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I
might
> > want
> > > to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a
> > Harbor
> > > Freight benchtop drill press.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim Weir >
> > > shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
> > >
> > > ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like
thoughts
> > on what
> > > ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be
> > about 2'
> > > ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best,
but
> > quick
> > > ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> > > ->
> > > ->Thoughts appreciated.
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> > > VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> > > http://www.rst-engr.com
>

[Blueskies]

http://www.roscoemoss.com/specs.html

--
Dan D.



..
"Blueskies" > wrote in message .com...
> Cast some concrete in a 2" form?
>
> How about some of those new plastic deck 'boards'.
>
>
>
> --
> Dan D.
>
>
>
> .
> "Jim Weir" > wrote in message ...
> > Oooookay, let me try again.
> >
> > What NONLUMBER bench tops have you ever seen or considered that might work?
> >
> > I'm not making 747s, fellers, nor am I building spars. The worst I might want
> > to do is bend up a 4" x 6" bracket out of 5052H32 and drill it with a Harbor
> > Freight benchtop drill press.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Weir >
> > shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
> >
> > ->However, since I'm going to a new method of framing, I'd like thoughts on what
> > ->you have used as workbench/shelving materials. The benches will be about 2'
> > ->wide and 6' long. Yes, I know, solid moulded Teflon would be best, but quick
> > ->and cheap is high on the list of attributes I'm looking for.
> > ->
> > ->Thoughts appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> > VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> > http://www.rst-engr.com
>
>