Hangar Insulation & Lighting?

[B. Jensen]

I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from
this area have any vendors that they can recommend?

I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any
recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective
products would be greatly appreciated! :-)

Thank,

Bryan
Lakeville, MN

[G.R. Patterson III]

"B. Jensen" wrote:
>
> I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
> winter. What are my options, and what works the best?

Options tend to be fiberglass batts and foam panels. Fiberglass is cheaper and
doesn't burn as well. It can be held in place with spring wire placed between
joists or by stapling chicken wire to structures to hold it in (among other
techniques). One disadvantage is that rodents like to make nests in it. Many
types of foam are flammable, some highly so, but the panels can be glued in place
with construction adhesive.

> I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any
> recommendations here?

The most cost-effective lighting is fluorescent. Standard ballasts don't work
well below about 60 degrees, however, so you need commercial fixtures. Home
Depot in this area sells Simkar commercial units with ballasts that work down
to below freezing, but even that isn't going to be good enough for deep winter
where you are. Halogens work in about any temperature, but they put out lots
of heat. That's great in winter, but lousy the rest of the year. Possibly the
best choice would be some of those "yard security" lights that look and work
like streetlights.

George Patterson
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something that cannot
be learned any other way. Samuel Clemens

[Robert Little]

I insulated my 30 x 60 quonset with double bubble mylar/aluminum foil that
is really tough stuff and easy to put up. It comes in1/2 x 4 x 75(?) strips
and can be placed under the bolt's nut and held in place with the edges
sealed with 2" wided aluminum tape. R values vary from the vertical to the
horizontal but something in the R-14 area. It is highly reflective and I've
had it up now for 7 years with no complaints. Note: Don't stick weld close
to the wall though, you'll end up with a good sun burn on the back of your
neck. Hope this helps. I got this stuff at Barton's Lumber but can be had
cheaper at Home Depot and etc. R Little
"B. Jensen" > wrote in message
...
> I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
> winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from
> this area have any vendors that they can recommend?
>
> I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any
> recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective
> products would be greatly appreciated! :-)
>
> Thank,
>
> Bryan
> Lakeville, MN
>

[Dennis O'Connor]

Also, look into the cost of haivng the inside of the hangar foamed... You
get an air tight result, with superior R values... They may do the inside of
the door also, depending on your installation... Foam is a few more bucks,
but in ten years you won't miss the money and you have a superior product...
Denny
"G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> "B. Jensen" wrote:
> >
> > I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
> > winter. What are my options, and what works the best?
>
> Options tend to be fiberglass batts and foam panels. Fiberglass is cheaper
and
> doesn't burn as well. It can be held in place with spring wire placed
between
> joists or by stapling chicken wire to structures to hold it in (among
other
> techniques). One disadvantage is that rodents like to make nests in it.
Many
> types of foam are flammable, some highly so, but the panels can be glued
in place
> with construction adhesive.
>
> > I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any
> > recommendations here?
>
> The most cost-effective lighting is fluorescent. Standard ballasts don't
work
> well below about 60 degrees, however, so you need commercial fixtures.
Home
> Depot in this area sells Simkar commercial units with ballasts that work
down
> to below freezing, but even that isn't going to be good enough for deep
winter
> where you are. Halogens work in about any temperature, but they put out
lots
> of heat. That's great in winter, but lousy the rest of the year. Possibly
the
> best choice would be some of those "yard security" lights that look and
work
> like streetlights.
>
> George Patterson
> A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something that cannot
> be learned any other way. Samuel
Clemens

[Mike Rapoport]

FWIW I am currently building a 80'x79'6"x30' tall hanger. The cost for 4"
insulation is $6000. It is installed by screwing the sheeting over it. We
are using florescent lighting but I don't have the cost broken out.

Mike
MU-2


"B. Jensen" > wrote in message
...
> I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
> winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from
> this area have any vendors that they can recommend?
>
> I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any
> recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective
> products would be greatly appreciated! :-)
>
> Thank,
>
> Bryan
> Lakeville, MN
>

[Roger Halstead]

On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:15:33 -0500, "B. Jensen"
> wrote:

>I have a 48x60' hangar that I want to insulate for the upcoming MN
>winter. What are my options, and what works the best? Anyone from
>this area have any vendors that they can recommend?
>
>I will also be adding some much needed overhead lighting. Any
>recommendations here? I am not a millionaire, so cost effective
>products would be greatly appreciated! :-)
>

A lot depends on your zoning and ordinances.
One of the best I've seen for the old style all meal, rectangular
"pole barn" type hangers is a spray on fire retardant cellulose. As I
recall it takes a bit more to get the R-factor compared to some of the
others, but you can put the stuff into places that are normally
difficult to reach. They can even spray it on the ceiling as well as
around and under steel beams.

Fiberglass bats and roll insulation work well and are relatively
inexpensive., If you have steel support beams and uprights they can
prove to be tremendous heat losses unless wrapped with the insulation.

It's a lot of work, but if you can afford to put wood strips (I forget
the proper name) on the wall and finish the interior with rock lath,
or plasterboard then the walls can be blown full, or just filled with
batts

On mine, I insulated the walls with 3 1/2 inch batts and covered them
with finished barn metal. The ceiling is also barn metal with 16
inches of blown cellulose on top of that. However I'd guess to do the
entire inside of a 48 X 60' hanger with barn metal would run over
$2,000. OTOH it's a whale of a lot easier to install than rock lath.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)


>Thank,
>
>Bryan
>Lakeville, MN