wanted: hangar door tips

[Joa]

Our EAA chapter had a 40' hangar door that split in the middle and
folded sideways (each half). The ends were hinged and the center had
a single roller that ran in a track above. The bottom was not
attached in any way and just hung. It was held closed and open with
large steel pins that dropped into holes in the concrete/asphalt.

The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
(it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").

The trick is that this door was about as inexpensive a design as them
come so I want to use a similar design on a hangar I'm building.

What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
in weather.

Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?

Thanks folks.

J oa

[Paul Tomblin]

I saw the subject line, and was immediately struck by the thought that
LoPresti probably have a line of hangar door tips, and they claim to speed
up your hangar door by 2-3 knots.

--
Paul Tomblin > http://xcski.com/blogs/pt/
"Power corrupts. Powerpoint corrupts absolutely." - Vint Cerf

[Jean-Paul Roy]

Any link?

J.P.
"Paul Tomblin" > wrote in message
...
> I saw the subject line, and was immediately struck by the thought that
> LoPresti probably have a line of hangar door tips, and they claim to speed
> up your hangar door by 2-3 knots.
>
> --
> Paul Tomblin > http://xcski.com/blogs/pt/
> "Power corrupts. Powerpoint corrupts absolutely." - Vint Cerf

[Cy Galley]

I would use sliding Barn door track and instead of a single roller, use a
double. I would pickup the bottom end closure at least 3 to 4 inches with a
set of levers with an over center locking device. Might even rig up linked
hinge pins so that the top and the bottom close at the same time. Might not
be necessary if the bottom is clear and the top track is clean. If your
bottom closure come into the hangar you might have to have the hinge pins
offset into the hangar for clearance. Just remember anything that sticks
out will be run into in the dark.



"Joa" > wrote in message
om...
> Our EAA chapter had a 40' hangar door that split in the middle and
> folded sideways (each half). The ends were hinged and the center had
> a single roller that ran in a track above. The bottom was not
> attached in any way and just hung. It was held closed and open with
> large steel pins that dropped into holes in the concrete/asphalt.
>
> The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
> and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
> (it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").
>
> The trick is that this door was about as inexpensive a design as them
> come so I want to use a similar design on a hangar I'm building.
>
> What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
> smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
> in weather.
>
> Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?
>
> Thanks folks.
>
> J oa

[Joa]

Actually not a bad idea- bifold tips. Accordian them up to create a
winglet and extend them for increased span. Plus your plane would fit
through a smaller hangar door :)

Joa

(Paul Tomblin) wrote in message >...
> I saw the subject line, and was immediately struck by the thought that
> LoPresti probably have a line of hangar door tips, and they claim to speed
> up your hangar door by 2-3 knots.

[Mark Smith]

Cy Galley wrote:
>
> I would use sliding Barn door track and instead of a single roller, use a
> double.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
> "Joa" > wrote in message
> om...
> > Our EAA chapter had a 40' hangar door that split in the middle and
> > folded sideways (each half). The ends were hinged and the center had
> > a single roller that ran in a track above. The bottom was not
> > attached in any way and just hung. It was held closed and open with
> > large steel pins that dropped into holes in the concrete/asphalt.
> >
> > The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
> > and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
> > (it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").
> >
> > The trick is that this door was about as inexpensive a design as them
> > come so I want to use a similar design on a hangar I'm building.
> >
> > What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
> > smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
> > in weather.
> >
> > Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?
> >
> > Thanks folks.
> >
> > J oa


I have doors similar to those described ,,,,,,,,

My opening is roughed in at 42 wide, minus a bit for the 6 by6 posts at
each side,,,,,,

I broke the opening into 6 pieces,,,,

the end pieces are hinged on the face of the 6 by 6's, the next piece in
both sides, is hinged to that one, with a double roller at the inner end
of the pabnel,

the rest of the openeing, is broken into two even pieces hinged to the
second pieces,,,,,,

to open, fold the middle two pieces outward and hook to their respective
second pieces,

then bifold the remaining door assemblies, the middle two pieces riding
along,,,,,,,

some advantages are that the projection from the hangar is reduced a
bucnch with six panels than four,,,,

and the track need only extend to the end of the second panel rather
than all the way across the building,,,,,,

I made the panels from 2 by 4's, with drywall nails and truss plates for
corner assemblies,,,,,

over the years, abit of sagging has occurred, and if redone, i would use
1 1/2 square steel tubing,,,,,even though drilled holes might be
required to attach the steel facing,,,,,,,,,,

The hinges I used have moved a bit with age, allowing the doors to sag a
bit, making what were nice even gaps more at the top od bottom as the
supports vary across the building face,,,,,,,

i use drop pins at the middle of the bifolds on the outside of the
building, at the end of the bifold sections on the inside, and one at
the middle of the span and a latch at the top, the middle of the bifolds
also have an upper latch pin,

they work great, takes less than a minute to open them,

only major problem was one new years 'gota fly'day,one of the drop pins
was frozen into the piece of axle scrap used for a socket,,,,,,,,,,,,

--


Mark Smith
Tri-State Kite Sales http://www.trikite.com
1121 N Locust St
Mt Vernon, IN 47620

[Craig]

(Joa) wrote in message news:<
> What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
> smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
> in weather.
>
>

Look at the caster installation on a rolling stand.....they retract
when you step on the stand. You will need a larger caster and heavier
springs. You want enough spring pressure to keep the end of the door
off the ground, but not so much as to bind the door as it moves.

[Deckard]

I have a 40' opening. I used 4 10' doors as sliders. I have a 6x6 post on
each side of the building. The doors slide open and stick out 10' on each
side. I don't however open them on windy days.
Jerry
"Joa" > wrote in message
om...
> Our EAA chapter had a 40' hangar door that split in the middle and
> folded sideways (each half). The ends were hinged and the center had
> a single roller that ran in a track above. The bottom was not
> attached in any way and just hung. It was held closed and open with
> large steel pins that dropped into holes in the concrete/asphalt.
>
> The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
> and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
> (it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").
>
> The trick is that this door was about as inexpensive a design as them
> come so I want to use a similar design on a hangar I'm building.
>
> What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
> smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
> in weather.
>
> Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?
>
> Thanks folks.
>
> J oa

[ks_av8r]

"Joa" > wrote in message
om...
>
> The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
> and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
> (it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").
>
>
> Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?
>
> Thanks folks.
>
> J oa

Depending in what part of the country you are located, you may be
experiencing frost heave that causes the surface that the bottom roller
contacts to actually raise in the winter and settle back in the spring. We
had a hangar with rolling bypass doors and they were a real pain in the
winter.

If possible, you may want to see if there is a creative way to make the
height of the bottom rollers easily adjustable to compensate for paving
movement. If you live in Florida, nevermind.

Good luck.

[Cub Driver]

>Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?

Not exactly the same, but the main hangar at Andover NJ has a concrete
floor with steel tracks in it. The doors (which are extensive) consist
of at least six pieces say 10-12-foot wide. There were barn-door
rollers above and (I think) below. Sliding them open was a breeze, and
you could expose a limited amount of the hangar if you chose. I'm not
sure what would happen in a severe winter--would the bottom track get
frozen up?

all the best -- Dan Ford
email: (put Cubdriver in subject line)

The Warbird's Forum www.warbirdforum.com
The Piper Cub Forum www.pipercubforum.com
Viva Bush! blog www.vivabush.org

[pacplyer]

(Joa) wrote in message
>
> Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?
>
> Thanks folks.
>
> J oa

Yeah, get a bi-fold. It's worth it. My damn custom hydro door always
jams, and instead of working on an airplane, I get to spend all my
time doing maintenance to the property. Those segmented doors always
rattle and will drive you crazy.

pac

[Musky]

Rollers, folders.... all asking for trouble. Why not a garage-door
style door, single piece and folding upward with help from low-tech
springs? That's what we recommend for county hangars. Very low
maintenance, can be automated, and don't flop around in the wind.

My opinion only, of course.

[Jean-Paul Roy]

How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you imagine
one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
position?

J.P.
"Musky" > wrote in message
...
> Rollers, folders.... all asking for trouble. Why not a garage-door
> style door, single piece and folding upward with help from low-tech
> springs? That's what we recommend for county hangars. Very low
> maintenance, can be automated, and don't flop around in the wind.
>
> My opinion only, of course.
>

[Musky]

http://www.dpindustries.com/onepiecepartialcanopycounterweight.htm

more on doors:

http://www.hangartrader.com/aircraft_hangar_doors.htm

Jean-Paul Roy wrote:
> How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you imagine
> one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
> position?
>

[Jean-Paul Roy]

thank you very much, Very informative.

regards

Jean-Paul
"Musky" > wrote in message
...
> http://www.dpindustries.com/onepiecepartialcanopycounterweight.htm
>
> more on doors:
>
> http://www.hangartrader.com/aircraft_hangar_doors.htm
>
> Jean-Paul Roy wrote:
> > How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you
imagine
> > one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
> > position?
> >
>

[G.R. Patterson III]

Cub Driver wrote:
>
> I'm not
> sure what would happen in a severe winter--would the bottom track get
> frozen up?

Similar doors have frozen up at other airports in New Jersey. Sometimes an aircraft
can be locked in for months.

George Patterson
This marriage is off to a shaky start. The groom just asked the band to
play "Your cheatin' heart", and the bride just requested "Don't come home
a'drinkin' with lovin' on your mind".

[pacplyer]

"Jean-Paul Roy" > wrote in message >...
> How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you imagine
> one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
> position?
>
> J.P.
> "Musky" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Rollers, folders.... all asking for trouble. Why not a garage-door
> > style door, single piece and folding upward with help from low-tech
> > springs? That's what we recommend for county hangars. Very low
> > maintenance, can be automated, and don't flop around in the wind.
> >
> > My opinion only, of course.
> >

Mine is a single piece 50 ft "garage-type" steel door with a
residential door and six residential windows in it. It is suspended
on cables and guided by two parabolic curved tubes. Every time
there's an earthquake slight alignment problems delvelop and the side
rollers take huge stresses and snap apart the sides of the building.
The side rollers attract dust and are high mtc. But it allows me to
have windows and a man-door which is nice. But for dependability I'd
have gone with an electric bi-fold if I had to do it over again.

pac

[Ron Rosenfeld]

On 14 Apr 2004 10:17:59 -0700, (Joa) wrote:

>Our EAA chapter had a 40' hangar door that split in the middle and
>folded sideways (each half). The ends were hinged and the center had
>a single roller that ran in a track above. The bottom was not
>attached in any way and just hung. It was held closed and open with
>large steel pins that dropped into holes in the concrete/asphalt.
>
>The door worked OK but sometimes the bottom would scrape (seasonal)
>and be hard to close and the door also "racked" if you pushed it wrong
>(it would "rock" back and forth and cause it to open sort of "jumpy").
>
>The trick is that this door was about as inexpensive a design as them
>come so I want to use a similar design on a hangar I'm building.
>
>What I'm needing are ideas for making this style of door operate
>smoother (not rack) and prevent catching along the bottom with changes
>in weather.
>
>Any tips from those of you that have built or used this style of door?
>
>Thanks folks.
>
>J oa

Well, I built a hangar at my home airport about four years ago. I
purchased a kit from a steel company (Miracle Steel or Miracle Truss --
sounds like a hernia aid <g>) and had it erected by local folk.

It came with an electric bifold door.

In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.

I would do it again.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Mike Rapoport]

Why couldn't they use salt to melt the ice?

Mike
MU-2

"G.R. Patterson III" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Cub Driver wrote:
> >
> > I'm not
> > sure what would happen in a severe winter--would the bottom track get
> > frozen up?
>
> Similar doors have frozen up at other airports in New Jersey. Sometimes an
aircraft
> can be locked in for months.
>
> George Patterson
> This marriage is off to a shaky start. The groom just asked the band
to
> play "Your cheatin' heart", and the bride just requested "Don't come
home
> a'drinkin' with lovin' on your mind".

[Craig]

Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message >...
> It came with an electric bifold door.
>
> In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
> whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
> I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
>
> I would do it again.
>

Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
itself.

Craig C.

[G.R. Patterson III]

Mike Rapoport wrote:
>
> Why couldn't they use salt to melt the ice?

Someone would probably shoot them. I have enough problems with corrosion on my truck
caused by salt without someone adding to the situation at the airport.

George Patterson
This marriage is off to a shaky start. The groom just asked the band to
play "Your cheatin' heart", and the bride just requested "Don't come home
a'drinkin' with lovin' on your mind".

[Blueskies]

I've seen multiple overhead doors side by side that each runs on its own set of tracks. Once all the doors are open, the
vertical track portions of the doors that get in the way of the clear opening are removed via a couple of clips. The
open doors are fully supported by the overhead tracks still in place. You then re-install the vertical tracks when ready
to close the door.

--
Dan D.



..
"Jean-Paul Roy" > wrote in message ...
> How can you get a 40 ft garage style door to work properly. Can you imagine
> one track holding each end. Wouldn't the midlle colapse when in the up
> position?
>
> J.P.
> "Musky" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Rollers, folders.... all asking for trouble. Why not a garage-door
> > style door, single piece and folding upward with help from low-tech
> > springs? That's what we recommend for county hangars. Very low
> > maintenance, can be automated, and don't flop around in the wind.
> >
> > My opinion only, of course.
> >
>
>

[Blueskies]

Not these doors, which is what I have. They have the aux arms on the sides which allow them to open further with a given
opening...

http://www.hi-fold.com/



--
Dan D.



..
"Craig" > wrote in message om...
> Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message >...
> > It came with an electric bifold door.
> >
> > In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
> > whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
> > I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
> >
> > I would do it again.
> >
>
> Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
> makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
> a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
> minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
> it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
> along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
> biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
> itself.
>
> Craig C.
>

[Ron Rosenfeld]

On 16 Apr 2004 13:23:30 -0700, (Craig) wrote:

>Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message >...
>> It came with an electric bifold door.
>>
>> In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
>> whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
>> I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
>>
>> I would do it again.
>>
>
>Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
>makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
>a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
>minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
>it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
>along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
>biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
>itself.
>
>Craig C.


I really have no idea regarding door costs. The kit with a 40x10 bifold
door was about $13K (engineered for northern climes). That was less than
half the total construction cost. I have no idea what a larger hangar
would cost.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Cub Driver]

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 16:33:40 GMT, "Mike Rapoport"
> wrote: (about sliding doors with track
below):

>Why couldn't they use salt to melt the ice?

That ought to work, if done regularly and in advance of snowstorms.

I suspect what happened in the case mentioned was that the hangar was
left alone for a week or two. Pretty hard to melt ice from on top when
it has accumulated and there's an iron frost in the ground. (I assume
that New Jersey deep-freezes in winter. New Hampshire certain does ;)


all the best -- Dan Ford
email: (put Cubdriver in subject line)

The Warbird's Forum www.warbirdforum.com
The Piper Cub Forum www.pipercubforum.com
Viva Bush! blog www.vivabush.org

[Cub Driver]

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 01:52:50 GMT, "Blueskies" > wrote:

>http://www.hi-fold.com/

Dig the photo of the hangar-house on the right, on the "Applications"
page!

all the best -- Dan Ford
email: (put Cubdriver in subject line)

The Warbird's Forum www.warbirdforum.com
The Piper Cub Forum www.pipercubforum.com
Viva Bush! blog www.vivabush.org

[Blueskies]

My hi-fold was $3500 for 45 wide by 12' clear opening. That is just the cost of the frame, which then has the r-board
and metal exterior attached, not to mention the installation costs (hanging it, electrical hookup, etc.) It you have no
power a roller/track door is the way to go...

--
Dan D.



..
"Ron Rosenfeld" > wrote in message ...
> On 16 Apr 2004 13:23:30 -0700, (Craig) wrote:
>
> >Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message >...
> >> It came with an electric bifold door.
> >>
> >> In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
> >> whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
> >> I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
> >>
> >> I would do it again.
> >>
> >
> >Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
> >makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
> >a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
> >minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
> >it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
> >along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
> >biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
> >itself.
> >
> >Craig C.
>
>
> I really have no idea regarding door costs. The kit with a 40x10 bifold
> door was about $13K (engineered for northern climes). That was less than
> half the total construction cost. I have no idea what a larger hangar
> would cost.
>
>
> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Ron Rosenfeld]

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 10:42:56 GMT, "Blueskies" > wrote:

>My hi-fold was $3500 for 45 wide by 12' clear opening. That is just the cost of the frame, which then has the r-board
>and metal exterior attached, not to mention the installation costs (hanging it, electrical hookup, etc.) It you have no
>power a roller/track door is the way to go...
>
>--
>Dan D.

That is likely less than I paid for mine, but the price of my kit did not
have the door price listed separately. The kit included not only the door,
but also all of the other metal parts required to build the entire hangar.

I don't know all the names but that would include the hangar supports, door
framing, motor for the door, bolts, exterior metal sheathing.

On site we supplied some lumber which ran between the steel supports and to
which we nailed the exterior sheathing.

The rest of the erection costs had to do with labor, excavation, concrete
floor, and asphalt.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Mark Smith]

Ron Rosenfeld wrote:
>
> On 16 Apr 2004 13:23:30 -0700, (Craig) wrote:
>
> >Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message >...
> >> It came with an electric bifold door.
> >>
> >> In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
> >> whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
> >> I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
> >>
> >> I would do it again.
> >>
> >
> >Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
> >makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
> >a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
> >minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
> >it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
> >along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
> >biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
> >itself.
> >
> >Craig C.
>
>
> I really have no idea regarding door costs. The kit with a 40x10 bifold
> door was about $13K (engineered for northern climes). That was less than
> half the total construction cost. I have no idea what a larger hangar
> would cost.
>
> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

my folding doors cost me about 500 more than just building the original
wall,

anf they open in less than a minute, even with the electric power off,

13K for door, not doors ?

you guys have more money than brains !
--


Mark Smith
Tri-State Kite Sales http://www.trikite.com
1121 N Locust St
Mt Vernon, IN 47620

[Jean-Paul Roy]

Thanks for the link. Very helpfull

Jean-Paul
"Blueskies" > wrote in message
m...
> Not these doors, which is what I have. They have the aux arms on the sides
which allow them to open further with a given
> opening...
>
> http://www.hi-fold.com/
>
>
>
> --
> Dan D.
>
>
>
> .
> "Craig" > wrote in message
om...
> > Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message
>...
> > > It came with an electric bifold door.
> > >
> > > In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
> > > whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only
time
> > > I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
> > >
> > > I would do it again.
> > >
> >
> > Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
> > makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
> > a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
> > minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
> > it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
> > along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
> > biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
> > itself.
> >
> > Craig C.
> >
>
>

[Ron Rosenfeld]

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 06:54:06 -0500, Mark Smith > wrote:

>Ron Rosenfeld wrote:
>>
>> On 16 Apr 2004 13:23:30 -0700, (Craig) wrote:
>>
>> >Ron Rosenfeld > wrote in message >...
>> >> It came with an electric bifold door.
>> >>
>> >> In spite of winter ice and snow, the door has never given any trouble
>> >> whatsoever. No tracks in the ground to freeze up or buckle. The only time
>> >> I couldn't open the door was when the airport had a power failure.
>> >>
>> >> I would do it again.
>> >>
>> >
>> >Biggest problem with a bifold is tail height. For my aircraft, it
>> >makes the door framing a heck of a lot bigger than I really want. For
>> >a tail height of 15' on one of mine, it makes the bifold opening a
>> >minimum of 20' tall. When you couple that with a required span of 60',
>> >it makes for a very expensive door that has to be power operated,
>> >along with some significant structural needs. For my purposes, a
>> >biflod would end up costing nearly as much as the rest of the hangar
>> >itself.
>> >
>> >Craig C.
>>
>>
>> I really have no idea regarding door costs. The kit with a 40x10 bifold
>> door was about $13K (engineered for northern climes). That was less than
>> half the total construction cost. I have no idea what a larger hangar
>> would cost.
>>
>> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)
>
>my folding doors cost me about 500 more than just building the original
>wall,
>
>anf they open in less than a minute, even with the electric power off,
>
>13K for door, not doors ?
>
>you guys have more money than brains !

Perhaps I was unclear, but my message about the $13K said the kit
"included" the door. With my limited communication skills, I thought that
would be interpreted that the kit comprised a number of components, one of
which was the door; not that the kit was comprised *solely* of the door.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Ron Rosenfeld]

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 11:30:03 -0400, Ron Rosenfeld >
wrote:

>Perhaps I was unclear, but my message about the $13K said the kit
>"included" the door. With my limited communication skills, I thought that
>would be interpreted that the kit comprised a number of components, one of
>which was the door; not that the kit was comprised *solely* of the door.

Actually, it was my first message about the kit that used the word
"included". The second message, in which I mentioned the $13K, used a
different phraseology that might have been confusing had you not read my
first message.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Mark Smith]

Ron Rosenfeld wrote:
> >you guys have more money than brains !
>
> Perhaps I was unclear, but my message about the $13K said the kit
> "included" the door. With my limited communication skills, I thought that
> would be interpreted that the kit comprised a number of components, one of
> which was the door; not that the kit was comprised *solely* of the door.
>
> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)


sory, thought we were talking doors,

I don't 13K in both of my 40 by 42 hangars, including the trifold
doors,,,,,,,,
--


Mark Smith
Tri-State Kite Sales http://www.trikite.com
1121 N Locust St
Mt Vernon, IN 47620

[Ron Rosenfeld]

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 11:45:18 -0500, Mark Smith > wrote:

>Ron Rosenfeld wrote:
>> >you guys have more money than brains !
>>
>> Perhaps I was unclear, but my message about the $13K said the kit
>> "included" the door. With my limited communication skills, I thought that
>> would be interpreted that the kit comprised a number of components, one of
>> which was the door; not that the kit was comprised *solely* of the door.
>>
>> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)
>
>
>sory, thought we were talking doors,
>
>I don't 13K in both of my 40 by 42 hangars, including the trifold
>doors,,,,,,,,

And I doubt there's $13K in the other four hangars on the field here.


Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)

[Craig]

"Blueskies" > wrote in message >...
> Not these doors, which is what I have. They have the aux arms on the sides which allow them to open further with a given
> opening...
>
> http://www.hi-fold.com/

They don't gain as much headroom as you think. By their own spec's,
the vertical height of the door opening will need to be nearly 30"
over the height that I would need. Besides, here in the summer time
heat and wind, a bifold is a PITA. It's too hard to regulate airflow
through the hangar.

Craig C.

[Mark Smith]

Ron Rosenfeld wrote:
>
> On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 11:45:18 -0500, Mark Smith > wrote:
>
> >Ron Rosenfeld wrote:
> >> >you guys have more money than brains !
> >>
> >> Perhaps I was unclear, but my message about the $13K said the kit
> >> "included" the door. With my limited communication skills, I thought that
> >> would be interpreted that the kit comprised a number of components, one of
> >> which was the door; not that the kit was comprised *solely* of the door.
> >>
> >> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)
> >
> >
> >sory, thought we were talking doors,
> >
> >I don't 13K in both of my 40 by 42 hangars, including the trifold
> >doors,,,,,,,,
>
> And I doubt there's $13K in the other four hangars on the field here.
>
> Ron (EPM) (N5843Q, Mooney M20E) (CP, ASEL, ASES, IA)


sounds like a possible slum area ????

I'd move,,,,,,,,,,--


Mark Smith
Tri-State Kite Sales http://www.trikite.com
1121 N Locust St
Mt Vernon, IN 47620