Straight restrictor fitting?

[nauga]

Van's used to sell straight restrictor fittings,
an AN416-4 nipple to 1/8 pipe fitting filled
and drilled with a teeny little opening. They
don't seem to carry the straight ones anymore,
and that's what I need. Neither does Wicks.
Anyone know where to find 'em?

Before someone says, "Make yer own!", my garage
floor is littered with AN fittings filled with
bolts, rivets, and solder, each one with a little
broken drill bit sticking out of the middle. I
didn't have much luck last time, so I'd prefer to
buy outright this time.

Dave 'fitting end' Hyde

[Cy Galley]

Put a piece of .020 SS Safety wire in fitting before soldering. Then pull
out the wire as solder doesn't stick to SS unless you use a special flux.



"nauga" > wrote in message
link.net...
> Van's used to sell straight restrictor fittings,
> an AN416-4 nipple to 1/8 pipe fitting filled
> and drilled with a teeny little opening. They
> don't seem to carry the straight ones anymore,
> and that's what I need. Neither does Wicks.
> Anyone know where to find 'em?
>
> Before someone says, "Make yer own!", my garage
> floor is littered with AN fittings filled with
> bolts, rivets, and solder, each one with a little
> broken drill bit sticking out of the middle. I
> didn't have much luck last time, so I'd prefer to
> buy outright this time.
>
> Dave 'fitting end' Hyde
>
>
>

[Tim Ward]

"nauga" > wrote in message
link.net...
> Van's used to sell straight restrictor fittings,
> an AN416-4 nipple to 1/8 pipe fitting filled
> and drilled with a teeny little opening. They
> don't seem to carry the straight ones anymore,
> and that's what I need. Neither does Wicks.
> Anyone know where to find 'em?
>
> Before someone says, "Make yer own!", my garage
> floor is littered with AN fittings filled with
> bolts, rivets, and solder, each one with a little
> broken drill bit sticking out of the middle. I
> didn't have much luck last time, so I'd prefer to
> buy outright this time.
>
> Dave 'fitting end' Hyde
>

Have you considered tubing with the ID you want, and just soldering it in
place?
You can get your precision diameter without ever getting near a drill.

Tim Ward

[GeorgeB]

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 02:06:41 GMT, "nauga" > wrote:

>Van's used to sell straight restrictor fittings,
>an AN416-4 nipple to 1/8 pipe fitting filled
>and drilled with a teeny little opening. They
>don't seem to carry the straight ones anymore,
>and that's what I need. Neither does Wicks.
>Anyone know where to find 'em?

The hydraulic (fluid power) industry uses standard orifices, usually
made from #10 or 1/4 setscrews, or 1/16 NPT (yeah, 1/16) plugs. Most
of t hem won't want to sell 1 or 2, but will if you insist. What
diameter do you need?

(side comment- 1/16 NPT and M8X1 are so close that they interchange in
plug applications)

[Veeduber]

Dear Dave,

Sounds like you're doing something wrong.

Usual method is to solder the fitting closed, file it flat then drill it out.
When soldering the interior of a brass fitting it was SOP to soot the surface
so the solder would NOT stick... then brighten up a ring of metal right at the
opening using steel wool on a toothpick or whatever, solder the thing on its
side, rolling it over or whatever to get a 'plug' of solder. Pre-heat with a
torch but the soldering was usually done with a prepperly dressed & tinned
copper or big electric iron.

I can't imagine what the problem might be with the drilling, other than failure
to clear the hole. Drilling solder with a small bit typically generates enough
heat to cause the solder to flow, so you have to use a coolant/lubricant and
take shallow cuts, retracting the bit and freeing it of swarf as the hole
progresses.

Small hole in a solder plug, I think most machinists would cut the thing with a
watchmaker's broach.

--------------------------------------------------------
Other methods of making primer nozzles:

Using a round-nose straking punch, peen the edges of the opening in a regular
brass fitting so as to reduce it's diameter. For 1/8" fittings this method can
be used to completely close the opening, after which it may be drilled or
reamed. (Typical reamer used here is a tapered three-sided, hollow-ground
clock-makers reamer... about as big as a kitchen match and sharp as a needle.)

------------------------------

Using annealed copper tubing, crush the end flat with a needle or wire in
place. Pull out the needle, there's your hole.

----------------------------------

Starting with thin brass sheet, well polished, use a punch to produce 'coins'
sized to match the end of the fitting. Solder to the fitting. Drill or ream
to the required size. Some prefer to tin the brass sheet first. If the end of
the fitting has been filed flat and tinned, with a bit of flux it takes only a
modest amount of heat to sweat them together.

-R.S.Hoover

[rip]

Hey Dave, not sure just how "restricted" you need to be, but if you're
trying to make a "snubber" for a hydraulic pressure gage, forget the
solder. Run a 10-32 tap into one of your male -4 fittings, and screw a
1/2 inch long set screw into it, tight but with no sealant (of course).
The leakage past the threads is more than enough to actuate the gage.

Rip

nauga wrote:
> Van's used to sell straight restrictor fittings,
> an AN416-4 nipple to 1/8 pipe fitting filled
> and drilled with a teeny little opening. They
> don't seem to carry the straight ones anymore,
> and that's what I need. Neither does Wicks.
> Anyone know where to find 'em?
>
> Before someone says, "Make yer own!", my garage
> floor is littered with AN fittings filled with
> bolts, rivets, and solder, each one with a little
> broken drill bit sticking out of the middle. I
> didn't have much luck last time, so I'd prefer to
> buy outright this time.
>
> Dave 'fitting end' Hyde
>
>
>