Tiedown Stakes (Article in SportAv.)

[Jim Weir]

Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.

The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
rod.

Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.

Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.

It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
better.

Thoughts?

Jim
Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

[Ben Jackson]

In article >,
Jim Weir > wrote:
>but says
>absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
>rod.

It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
a hammer and ruining the threads.

I was looking at those plans but figuring I'd just weld the head on.

>It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
>what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
>the nut from the rod without a torch.

I don't think you're ever supposed to get it off. Why would you? It
looks like it's only there to hold on the washer, which is only there to
give you something to pry it out by.

--
Ben Jackson
>
http://www.ben.com/

[Jim Weir]

(Ben Jackson)
shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:

->
->It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
->it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
->a hammer and ruining the threads.

Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".


Jim



Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
http://www.rst-engr.com

[Scott]

The "corkscrew" type of tiedown appear to be the most worthless type of
tiedowns. I use the tiedown set from Sporty's pilot shop. It comes
with 3 tiedown rods. They have an auger at the lower end that is about
3 or 4 inches in diameter. It is a miniature version of what is
commonly used as anchors for guy wires in tower construction. I keep
the box in the baggage compartment at all times. I also have a piece of
old ground rod about 12 to 14 inches long (so it also fits into the
box). It is a steel ground rod coated with copper. I use this to twist
the tiedowns into the ground. Works good at Oshkosh, where the ground
is usually pretty hard with a rock or two as well.

Scott, N0EDV
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die


Jim Weir wrote:
> (Ben Jackson)
> shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
>
> ->
> ->It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
> ->it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
> ->a hammer and ruining the threads.
>
> Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
> actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
> sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
> flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
> of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
> it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".
>
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Stealth Pilot]

On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:11:26 -0700, Jim Weir > wrote:

>Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.
>

>It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
>what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
>the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
>I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
>for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
>better.
>
>Thoughts?
>
Jim I use something similar but mine uses an eighth aluminium plate of
about 6" diameter instead of the chain. I made and welded an eye in
8mm rod for the centre. has a nut welded on the back to hold it into
the plate.
3 holes about 120 degrees apart at about 4 1/2" PCD to hammer the pegs
through..

the ends of the stakes take a fair hammering and you really should
think of welding them on. good fat solid welding. waste a rod or three
making the set. mine have a blunt tapered point turned on them.

the three stakes if splayed out have incredible holding power. mine
are about a cubit long.
they can be driven into soils ranging from loams, through limestone
gravel, to solid summer baked clay with the cheapest of claw hammers.

my pegs have a loop welded to the side of the head so that I can put a
spare peg through it and screw the peg loose in the ground.
in some soils they can really take hold enough to become permanent if
you let them. I have had to use all my might on a peg as a handle
through the side loop to get them free on a few occasions.

make it better? no, the idea is sound as presented. any more effort
making them and you'll really regret losing one.

for the tiedown rope I used one with the breaking strength equal to
the aircraft empty weight. run between tiedown and aircraft attachment
a few times and it'll never break.

must admit that the simplicity of the way he approached it impressed
me.
Stealth Pilot

[Veeduber]

>
>Thoughts?

-----------------------------------------------------

Gross over-kill.

Ever seen a bridge spike? It's a NAIL, 12" long, 3/8" diameter, typical
nail-head on one end, pointed on the other. Available from most hardware
stores. (The local Home Deepot carries them.) Cheap enough to leave behind
for the trip home.

Used with a large washer, bridge spikes are one of the few things able to get a
grip on really hard ground.

A couple of those molded black rubber bungees as gust snubbers, combined with a
hank of 1/4" poly rope and knowledge of a few basic knots, you can secure just
about anything right up to Full Gale force winds. And cheap enough to abandon
& replace as needed.

If you regularly fly into some truly wild & windy locales, buy yourself some
half-inch re-bar, cut it to 30" sections, heat it and bend the top 6" into a
hair-pin. Make as many as you need -- a dozen or so for a really windy site.
Drive those into your tie-down area leaving just the knuckle of the hair-pin
exposed. The tent may take off... with you in it... but the bird will still be
there.

I've found the most difficult tie-downs to be in sand or snow. Sand, I've used
chain attached to old car wheels. You have to dig them in; fix some driftwood
or something to the free end of the chain so you can find it again. I'll
leave the snow people to tell us the best solution there but a bridge spike
goes into frozen ground with the same ease as into a dry lake bed.

-R.S.Hoover

[FUji]

"Brian Southworth" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, Stealth Pilot
says...
>
> >an eighth aluminium plate
> >about 6" diameter
> >8mm rod
> >about 120 degrees
> >about 4 1/2" PCD
> >about a cubit long.
>
> What's that in furlongs?
>

1 cubit = 0.00227272727 furlongs

Hey, you asked... :-)

[Ross Richardson]

I thought it was brilliant. I am going to build some for my 172. So
simple, really.

Ross

Jim Weir wrote:
>
> Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.
>
> The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
> repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
> 3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
> absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
> rod.
>
> Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
> down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
> SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.
>
> Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
> admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
> (and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
> enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.
>
> It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
> what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
> the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
> I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
> for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
> better.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Jim
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Roger Halstead]

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 10:44:21 +0100, Scott >
wrote:

>The "corkscrew" type of tiedown appear to be the most worthless type of
>tiedowns. I use the tiedown set from Sporty's pilot shop. It comes

Actually the "corkscrew" tie downs made from spring steel work very
well. They came from Sporty's as well. I have three and have used a
three foot piece of pipe to get them in and out (Thanks Cy)

They held is some pretty stong winds.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

>with 3 tiedown rods. They have an auger at the lower end that is about
>3 or 4 inches in diameter. It is a miniature version of what is
>commonly used as anchors for guy wires in tower construction. I keep
>the box in the baggage compartment at all times. I also have a piece of
>old ground rod about 12 to 14 inches long (so it also fits into the
>box). It is a steel ground rod coated with copper. I use this to twist
>the tiedowns into the ground. Works good at Oshkosh, where the ground
>is usually pretty hard with a rock or two as well.
>
>Scott, N0EDV
>http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
>Building RV-4
>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
>
>
>Jim Weir wrote:
>> (Ben Jackson)
>> shared these priceless pearls of wisdom:
>>
>> ->
>> ->It mentions in one sentence near the end (last column) that he threaded
>> ->it, and warns to get the bolts tight before you start whacking them with
>> ->a hammer and ruining the threads.
>>
>> Got it. Completely missed that sentence. Am I reading that right? That he
>> actually EXPECTS the exposed rod threads to peen over against the top nut? I
>> sort of would like to be able to disassemble it because I'm sure that the
>> flatwasher (or is that a lockwasher?) is going to bend and break after a couple
>> of dozen uses. Or, I could simply hacksaw the threaded part off and rethread
>> it. I doubt 18" is going to hold much tighter than 17".
>>
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
>> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
>> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Morgans]

"Roger Halstead" > wrote comes
>
> Actually the "corkscrew" tie downs made from spring steel work very
> well. They came from Sporty's as well. I have three and have used a
> three foot piece of pipe to get them in and out (Thanks Cy)
>
> They held is some pretty stong winds.
>
> Roger Halstead

Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
spring steel.
--
Jim in NC


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[nauga]

Morgans wrote...

> The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.

Mmmmm...dog steaks.

Dave 'Homer' hyde

[Stealth Pilot]

On 21 Apr 2004 08:26:51 -0700, Brian Southworth
> wrote:

>In article >, Stealth Pilot says...
>
>>an eighth aluminium plate
>>about 6" diameter
>>8mm rod
>>about 120 degrees
>>about 4 1/2" PCD
>>about a cubit long.
>
>What's that in furlongs?

blame the bloody yanks. all the rest of the world went metric years
ago and so did I.
then I got into aviation and had to regress to an abortionate imperial
system. actually worse than that in australia, aviation here is a mix
of imperial and metric. (footric and metric as one of my mates calls
it) a nightmare tribute to the US dominance in aviation.

a cubit is actually a handy measurement. It is the length of your arm
from elbow to tip of longest finger. use it all the time for
guestimating things. =18"
Stealth Pilot

[Richard Riley]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 01:12:18 -0400, "Morgans"
> wrote:

:
:Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
:hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
:spring steel.

Or better. My wife got me a set of these
http://www.airtimemfg.com/

[Ernest Christley]

Stealth Pilot wrote:

> a cubit is actually a handy measurement. It is the length of your arm
> from elbow to tip of longest finger. use it all the time for
> guestimating things. =18"
> Stealth Pilot

Is that your arm, or mine?

Actually, I'm lucky in the biometric arena. My foot inside a New
Balance 604 shoe is EXACTLY 12". I can step off a room and get within
an inch of a tape measures reading nearly every time.
--
http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org/
"Ignorance is mankinds normal state,
alleviated by information and experience."
Veeduber

[alexy]

"nauga" > wrote:

>Morgans wrote...
>
>> The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.
>
>Mmmmm...dog steaks.
>
>Dave 'Homer' hyde

>

LOL! OSH catering to the tastes of some international visitors?
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.

[Richard Riley]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 21:22:41 +0800, Stealth Pilot
> wrote:

:blame the bloody yanks.

Everybody always does, why stop now?

:all the rest of the world went metric years
:ago

For which we should blame the French.

:and so did I.
:then I got into aviation and had to regress to an abortionate imperial
:system. actually worse than that in australia, aviation here is a mix
:of imperial and metric. (footric and metric as one of my mates calls
:it) a nightmare tribute to the US dominance in aviation.

We'd prefer cash.

:a cubit is actually a handy measurement. It is the length of your arm
:from elbow to tip of longest finger. use it all the time for
:guestimating things. =18"
:Stealth Pilot

Footric is much more logical than metric. 10 is a completely
irrational number to base a system on, the French only chose it
because we have that many fingers. How do you divide a meter in 3?
In footric it's easy. It's why eggs come in a dozen - it's easy to
split them up evenly.

Fortunately, metric is dying and slowly being replaced by a more
rational system. (ok, pun intended)
http://www.metricsucks.com/metric_land.html

[jerry Wass]

I used 7/16" rod, drilled out 1/2" nuts(to 7/16") & welded the h**l out of 'em--
actually got some 7/16" Spring steel from a spring mfg. co--nearly impossible to
bend!! for a Stinson 108.

Jim Weir wrote:

> Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.
>
> The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
> repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
> 3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
> absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
> rod.
>
> Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
> down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
> SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.
>
> Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
> admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
> (and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
> enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.
>
> It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
> what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
> the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
> I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
> for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
> better.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Jim
> Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
> VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
> http://www.rst-engr.com

[Dan Truesdell]

At OSH last year, I used 3/4" iron water pipe. I bought 4' sections
(threaded at each end) and sawed them in half at an angle (to make
ground penetration easier). Screwed a "T" connector on the end (for the
rope), and that was it. You need a hatchet or small ax to put it in
(carried anyway as part of my survival kit), but, when pounded in at an
angle, they do not come out. I probably spent a total of $15 on
everything. A bit heavy, but I don't use them much, so that's not a big
problem for me. You could probably use a smaller diameter, but I tend
to over-engineer things. (This was for a C172.)

jerry Wass wrote:
> I used 7/16" rod, drilled out 1/2" nuts(to 7/16") & welded the h**l out of 'em--
> actually got some 7/16" Spring steel from a spring mfg. co--nearly impossible to
> bend!! for a Stinson 108.
>
> Jim Weir wrote:
>
>
>>Sport Aviation (EAA Magazine), April issue, pages 110-112.
>>
>>The article shows a system of metal rod-stakes and the 3-part chain with the
>>repair link in the middle. The article goes into some detail on how to make a
>>3-part chain with a repair link (pretty trivial to figure that out) but says
>>absolutely nothing about how the hex head (nut?) and locking nut get onto the
>>rod.
>>
>>Now, my suspicion is that the top inch or so of the rod is threaded, a nut run
>>down to the bottom of the thread, a lockwasher, then another nut. That's my
>>SUSPICION. The article is silent on how this is done.
>>
>>Anybody wanna confirm my suspicions. If so, tell me how the guy, by his own
>>admission with a minimal shop, can thread a 5/16 rod. That's a pretty hefty
>>(and rather unusual) die/thread size. ¼-20 is pretty common, but I'm not a good
>>enough machinist to say whether or not 5/16 is a garden variety tool.
>>
>>It is also true that if you pound a lot on that hex nut at the top (if that is
>>what it is) there is no chance in hell that you will ever be able to separate
>>the nut from the rod without a torch. I mean, I think it is a great idea, and
>>I'd like nothing more than to get rid of those stupid corkscrews I've been using
>>for thirty years, but I'd like some of your comments on how we might make it
>>better.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>>
>>Jim
>>Jim Weir (A&P/IA, CFI, & other good alphabet soup)
>>VP Eng RST Pres. Cyberchapter EAA Tech. Counselor
>>http://www.rst-engr.com
>
>


--
Remove "2PLANES" to reply.

[Wright1902Glider]

Suggestion for tieing down in loose sand:

Start with a 24" x24" x 3/4" chunk of pressure-treated plywood. Drill a hole
in the center just large enough to pass through a 24" - 36" length of rope.
Pass the rope through the hole, and tie it off to a 3/8" x 6" bolt. Tie the
other end of the rope to a good (steel) caribeiner (sp?). Dig a hole in the
sand using a camp shovel, sand shovel stolen from that kid in the beach, ice
bucket from Holiday Inn, BigGulp cup, tablespoon, or whatever else ya have
handy. Plant your anchor. Cover with sand. For very winds conditions,
increase the size of your plywood to 36" sq.

Suggestion for tieing down inside a large hangar with frequently open doors:
(ok, so my plane only has a wing loading of 6oz. per sq. foot)

8 bags of cement, one Rubbermaid plastic tote bin, 4 24" sections of 3/8"
rebar, and 8 6" sections of 2" pvc pipe.

Dump 1 bag of cement into tote bin. Add water and mix. Tape over one end of a
pvc section using duct tape. Insert into center of wet cement. Wait one day.
Remove cement from tote bin and knock out tape. The result will be a nice neat
80lb weight block. Repeat 7 more times. While you're waiting, bend a loop
into one end of each rebar, small enough to fit into the pvc pipe. Bend the
other end 90 degrees. Stack your weight blocks on top of your rebar and tie
down. Oh yea, this method works best when you trailer your aircraft to your
flying site with dually pickup truck.

Harry

[John Galban]

(Wright1902Glider) wrote in message >...
>
> Suggestion for tieing down inside a large hangar with frequently open doors:
> (ok, so my plane only has a wing loading of 6oz. per sq. foot)
>
> 8 bags of cement, one Rubbermaid plastic tote bin, 4 24" sections of 3/8"
> rebar, and 8 6" sections of 2" pvc pipe.
>
Big chunks of concrete! I haven't seen that one in a while. I
recall an FBO along the Alaska Highway (Ft. Nelson I think) that had a
similar system. The guy rolls out a couple of tires filled with
concrete (about 100 lbs. each), with an anchor and rope attached. He
asked if I needed tiedowns. I mentioned that a couple of tires filled
with concrete were not likely to keep my plane from flying away in a
stiff wind. His response : "Yeah, I know that, but it seems to make
the pilots feel better when we use them".

John Galban=====>N4BQ (PA28-180)

[Bob Fry]

> > Or better. My wife got me a set of these
> http://www.airtimemfg.com/

Or yet better. A friend used these at OSH, they were the best I'd
seen:

http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php

[Ron Wanttaja]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 09:11:56 -0700, Richard Riley >
wrote:

>On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 21:22:41 +0800, Stealth Pilot
> wrote:
>
>> all the rest of the world went metric years
>> ago
>
>For which we should blame the French.

Well, the French were *responsible*...but I don't know if you can really
blame them. You see, they *had* the English system of measurement. With
one important difference: The inch was about 10% longer.

As you can imagine, this plays the very devil if you have any dealings with
other countries. Nautical charts, for instance...if the chart says the
depth is two fathoms, you'd like to know if they're ENGLISH or French
fathoms.

Probably the most enduring legacy of this is the popular perception of
Napoleon Bonaparte. Everybody jokes about how short he was. But his
height was recorded in *French* inches. He was actually about five feet
eight inches tall, about average for back then.

The mathematical relationships that formed the basis for the metric system
probably had less advantage than just getting rid of the old terminology.
No longer was there the danger that someone would assume the wrong "inch";
now *everyone* didn't know how long 25 centimeters was. :-)

A 20th century example of the same sort of confusion was solved by Stalin.
He'd been invited to attend a demonstration firing of the new 120 mm
artillery rocket, but when the soldiers opened the ammo case, it contained
120 mm howitzer shells. Stalin then ordered that the official designation
of ammunition caliber be unique. Those rockets, for instance, might be
designated 121 mm despite their being 120 mm across.

When I went to Space Camp three years ago, there were a couple of Aussies
there who did have trouble with the use of the English measurements used by
the program. I ended up doing a lot of quick conversions for them....

Ron Wanttaja

[Morgans]

"Richard Riley" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 01:12:18 -0400, "Morgans"
> > wrote:
>
> :
> :Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
> :hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
> :spring steel.
>
> Or better. My wife got me a set of these
> http://www.airtimemfg.com/

Nice!!!
--
Jim in NC


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[Morgans]

"nauga" > wrote in message
ink.net...
> Morgans wrote...
>
> > The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.
>
> Mmmmm...dog steaks.
>
> Dave 'Homer' hyde
>
>
>

Chuckle! Gim'e a brake! It was late! <g>
--
Jim in NC


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[Rick Pellicciotti]

Richard Riley wrote:

> On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 01:12:18 -0400, "Morgans"
> > wrote:
>
> :
> :Right. Just don't think that all corkscrews are created equal. The
> :hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH. They have to be
> :spring steel.
>
> Or better. My wife got me a set of these
> http://www.airtimemfg.com/
>

Richard,
You have the second best wife on earth!

Rick Pellicciotti
http://www.belleaireaviation.com

[alexy]

"Morgans" > wrote:

>
>"nauga" > wrote in message
ink.net...
>> Morgans wrote...
>>
>> > The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.
>>
>> Mmmmm...dog steaks.
>>
>> Dave 'Homer' hyde
>>
>>
>>
>
>Chuckle! Gim'e a brake!

So you can stop and not turn Fido into dog steaks? <g>
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.

[Dave S]

I bought my CLAW at OSH 93... I love it. I have added nylon
strap/buckle/hooks for the tie downs instead of the rope and have been
very happy with it.

Dave

Bob Fry wrote:
>>>Or better. My wife got me a set of these
>>
>>http://www.airtimemfg.com/
>
>
> Or yet better. A friend used these at OSH, they were the best I'd
> seen:
>
> http://www.theclaw.com/products/claw.php

[Richard Riley]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:00:30 -0500, Rick Pellicciotti
> wrote:

:Richard,
:You have the second best wife on earth!

You don't know the half of it.

Earlier this month on my birthday, she woke me up and told me that
from July 27 to Aug 2 she's taking the baby to her annual girl's
retreat in Ramona. And handed me an airline ticket to Oshkosh.

[Wright1902Glider]

Heh... I did mention that the chunks of concrete were for tieing down INSIDE
the hangar, right? For the record, my glider weighs 118 lbs and has 319 sq.
ft. of wing. Biplane wings, stalls at about 14kts. Tieing down is very
important to me. And wing walkers... gonna need wing walkers too...

Harry
Wright 1902 Glider #7
Wright 1899 kite
Wright 1878 Bat

Celebrate Freedom Festival, Camden, SC, Nov. 5-7, 2004. We'll be in one of
the big hangars.

[David Munday]

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 01:03:42 GMT, Ron Wanttaja >
wrote:

>The mathematical relationships that formed the basis for the metric system
>probably had less advantage than just getting rid of the old terminology.
>No longer was there the danger that someone would assume the wrong "inch";
>now *everyone* didn't know how long 25 centimeters was. :-)

So how many seconds of burn is that?

>A 20th century example of the same sort of confusion was solved by Stalin.
>He'd been invited to attend a demonstration firing of the new 120 mm
>artillery rocket, but when the soldiers opened the ammo case, it contained
>120 mm howitzer shells. Stalin then ordered that the official designation
>of ammunition caliber be unique. Those rockets, for instance, might be
>designated 121 mm despite their being 120 mm across.

And of course a .357 and a .38 are the same diameter.

>When I went to Space Camp three years ago, there were a couple of Aussies
>there who did have trouble with the use of the English measurements used by
>the program. I ended up doing a lot of quick conversions for them....

F-ing GE still uses english units in designing turbomachinery. (I
think Pratt does too.) There're extra g's and J's all over the place.
Getting rid of that crap is reason enough to put up with any amount of
French rationalism.

--
David Munday -
Webpage: http://www.ase.uc.edu/~munday
"Adopt, Adapt, and Improve" -- Motto of the Round Table

[B2431]

>From: "nauga"

>
>Morgans wrote...
>
>> The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.
>
>Mmmmm...dog steaks.
>
>Dave 'Homer' hyde


Just remember you have to marinade older dogs. If you stick with puppies you
shouldn't have any problem.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[B2431]

>From: "Morgans"

>"nauga" > wrote in message
ink.net...
>> Morgans wrote...
>>
>> > The hardware store, or dog steaks, "will" twist off at OSH.
>>
>> Mmmmm...dog steaks.
>>
>> Dave 'Homer' hyde
>>
>>
>>
>
>Chuckle! Gim'e a brake! It was late! <g>
>--
>Jim in NC
>
>

You have GOT to be kidding. With this bunch? You must have gone to medical
school to become an optimist.

I have a 24" bench brake if ya want it.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[B2431]

>From: Brian Southworth
>
>
>In article >, Stealth Pilot
>says...
>
>>an eighth aluminium plate
>>about 6" diameter
>>8mm rod
>>about 120 degrees
>>about 4 1/2" PCD
>>about a cubit long.
>
>What's that in furlongs?

Actually nowadays furlongs are only used in horse racing and measuring
velocity. A standard velocity would be in furlongs per fornight.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[B2431]

>From: Stealth Pilot
ominance in aviation.
>
>a cubit is actually a handy measurement. It is the length of your arm
>from elbow to tip of longest finger. use it all the time for
>guestimating things. =18"
>Stealth Pilot


Determined by a short arm inspection?

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[Del Rawlins]

In > David Munday wrote:

>>A 20th century example of the same sort of confusion was solved by
>>Stalin. He'd been invited to attend a demonstration firing of the new
>>120 mm artillery rocket, but when the soldiers opened the ammo case,
>>it contained 120 mm howitzer shells. Stalin then ordered that the
>>official designation of ammunition caliber be unique. Those rockets,
>>for instance, might be designated 121 mm despite their being 120 mm
>>across.
>
> And of course a .357 and a .38 are the same diameter.

Unless the .38 is a .38-40

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/