Winter Care

[Ron Gleason]

For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).

What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?

What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?

Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?

Ron Gleason

[Richard[_9_]]

On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>
> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>
> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>
> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

I don't think you can go wrong with the following recommendations.

The recommended is to discharge the battery about 1/2 and then store do not leave on the charger. I don't think warm or cold will matter, but I would bring them in the house out of the condensation.

PDAs PNAs in the house on the charger every month or so.

Mouse poison I don't know.
You will find the mice in the summer when the dead ones heat up and stink.


Richard,
www.craggyaero.com

[Andy Blackburn[_3_]]

On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>
> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>
> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>
> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

I also put a dehumidifier in the trailer that has a pump and a hose to get the water outside so I don't have to dump the reservoir. Makes a big difference in humidity levels, which I track with a remote telemetry temp/humidity sensor. Lower humidity definitely reduces the rate of corrosion.

9B

[Ron Gleason]

On Saturday, 28 November 2015 16:23:35 UTC-7, Andy Blackburn wrote:
> On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
> > For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
> >
> > What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
> >
> > What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
> >
> > Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
> >
> > Ron Gleason
>
> I also put a dehumidifier in the trailer that has a pump and a hose to get the water outside so I don't have to dump the reservoir. Makes a big difference in humidity levels, which I track with a remote telemetry temp/humidity sensor. Lower humidity definitely reduces the rate of corrosion.
>
> 9B

Thanks Andy but here in UT the single digit humidity levels makes the dehumidifier unnecessary.

[Ron Gleason]

On Saturday, 28 November 2015 15:45:53 UTC-7, Richard wrote:
> On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
> > For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
> >
> > What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
> >
> > What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
> >
> > Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
> >
> > Ron Gleason
>
> I don't think you can go wrong with the following recommendations.
>
> The recommended is to discharge the battery about 1/2 and then store do not leave on the charger. I don't think warm or cold will matter, but I would bring them in the house out of the condensation.
>
> PDAs PNAs in the house on the charger every month or so.
>
> Mouse poison I don't know.
> You will find the mice in the summer when the dead ones heat up and stink.
>
>
> Richard,
> www.craggyaero.com

Thanks Richard

[[email protected]]

LiFeLO4's degrade the least when stored cold, not frozen, at 50% charge. IIRC, Naviter published research on this as guidance for extending Oudie IGC battery life, including temp vs degradation tables. Fridge is good, freezer is not.

CJ

[[email protected]]

From the Stark manual:

Store the battery at temperatures between 5 °C and 20 °C (41 °F and 68°F).

NOTE. The battery self-discharges during storage. Higher storage temperatures (above 25 °C or 77 °F) reduce the battery storage life.

[Mike Smith]

Mouse poison is a good idea. I always place some in the trailer during
winter storage.

I place a tray of mouse poison on a tray at the rear of my Cobra trailer.

Usually in the spring there is no sign of mice but 3 years ago I found that
all the poison has been moved by the mice into a nest made of kitchen roll,
at the front of the trailer. I have no idea how they got in.

I assume they had eaten some of the poison and died, but I never found dead
ones in the trailer.

No damage caused by the mice except part of a chewed up kitchen roll. I had
failed to remove this from the trailer.

I reckon that without the poison, I would have had some damage to anything
the mice like to chew such as wiring.

regards

Mike

At 00:52 29 November 2015, Ron Gleason wrote:
>On Saturday, 28 November 2015 15:45:53 UTC-7, Richard wrote:
>> On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
>> > For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for
a
>number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put
mouse
>poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze
(waxes,
>plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>> >
>> > What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's?
>Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house
or
>in a cold garage?
>> >
>> > What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the
>warm house?
>> >
>> > Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>> >
>> > Ron Gleason
>>
>> I don't think you can go wrong with the following recommendations.
>>
>> The recommended is to discharge the battery about 1/2 and then store do
>not leave on the charger. I don't think warm or cold will matter, but I
>would bring them in the house out of the condensation.
>>
>> PDAs PNAs in the house on the charger every month or so.
>>
>> Mouse poison I don't know.
>> You will find the mice in the summer when the dead ones heat up and
>stink.
>>
>>
>> Richard,
>> www.craggyaero.com
>
>Thanks Richard
>

[John Castle[_3_]]

>I also put a dehumidifier in the trailer that has a pump and a hose to
get
>=
>the water outside so I don't have to dump the reservoir. Makes a big
>differ=
>ence in humidity levels, which I track with a remote telemetry
>temp/humidit=
>y sensor. Lower humidity definitely reduces the rate of corrosion.
>
>9B
>
I have a similar dehumidifier which is great and really does stop any damp
etc. However to get best effect you must seal up the trailer as far as
possible to avoid trying to dry out the surrounding neighbourhood.
Mine also has a battery backup that means it will switch on again after a
power outage.

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

Good ideas put forth thus far.

It's also good to do a good cleaning of the ship.
-Remove any food/crumbs
-Remove paper (maps, contest sheets, etc., glider & trailer)
-Good wash & wax, don't forget the canopy
-Vacuum the interior, fuselage dollies, etc.
-Maybe wash the carpet/fabric in the interior (make sure they're DRY before putting back in, maybe even leave home in storage)
-At least sweep out the trailer
-Pump up tires, sailplane & trailer. Go a little harder than normal since air leaks through the tire itself

Part of this is to get dirt off, part is to seal the surfaces, removing "nesting material", removing/reducing things little critters may find enticing..
Salts from your body (you know, from sweat from that low save, etc.) corrode metal items. It can also attract critters.
Dirt here & there can also attract moisture, thus adding to corrosion. It can also promote mold growth.

As to, "How did the mice get in?", for small field mice, all it takes is an opening about the size of a dime. This can be trailer drains, poor fit of doors, etc.

If you won't be around the trailer all winter, maybe put the trailer axles up on blocks/stands to keep the load off the tires. If outside, tire covers can slow down UV/ozone aging. Most trailer tires die from aging/dry rot than wear. Those "little cracks & checkerboards" in the tires are from aging.

[bumper[_4_]]

Mouse poison carries the risk of collateral damage to raptors:

https://www.audubon.org/magazine/january-february-2013/poisons-used-kill-rodents-have-safer

[Craig Funston]

On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>
> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>
> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>
> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

I'd be particularly interested in hearing proven strategies from those who are storing gliders in their trailers in wet climates with no power available at the trailer.

[Steve Leonard[_2_]]

On Sunday, November 29, 2015 at 11:20:05 PM UTC-6, bumper wrote:
> Mouse poison carries the risk of collateral damage to raptors:
>
> https://www.audubon.org/magazine/january-february-2013/poisons-used-kill-rodents-have-safer

Agree on this one. I would much rather use the old snap traps, and throw out the dead ones. Yeah, they are vicious, and mice will eat their own dead.. But, I hear too many stories of hawks, owls, etc, being killed by poisoned mice. Oh, and the poison typically de-hydrates them, and they somehow think that inside your glider, they will find the water they are looking for.. If they dig deep enough.

Sorry, Craig. No advice on storing in damp without power. Get it dry. Grease up the metal parts, and wait for spring!

[Craig Funston]

On Monday, November 30, 2015 at 1:51:49 PM UTC-8, Steve Leonard wrote:
> On Sunday, November 29, 2015 at 11:20:05 PM UTC-6, bumper wrote:
> > Mouse poison carries the risk of collateral damage to raptors:
> >
> > https://www.audubon.org/magazine/january-february-2013/poisons-used-kill-rodents-have-safer
>
> Agree on this one. I would much rather use the old snap traps, and throw out the dead ones. Yeah, they are vicious, and mice will eat their own dead. But, I hear too many stories of hawks, owls, etc, being killed by poisoned mice. Oh, and the poison typically de-hydrates them, and they somehow think that inside your glider, they will find the water they are looking for. If they dig deep enough.
>
> Sorry, Craig. No advice on storing in damp without power. Get it dry. Grease up the metal parts, and wait for spring!

Thanks Steve. Mine's nice and dry in a heated workshop for the winter. I'm organizing a local seminar (Seattle WA, USA) though to share best practices for winter storage and maintenance tasks. Hoping to mine some community wisdom from RAS (I know, I'm an optimist).
Craig

[[email protected]]

On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-5, Ron Gleason wrote:
> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>
> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>
> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>
> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

Does anyone use mothballs?

[Dennis[_11_]]

Hard to collect enough moths to make it worthwhile

[[email protected]]

On Tuesday, December 1, 2015 at 8:03:45 PM UTC-5, wrote:
> On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-5, Ron Gleason wrote:
> > For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
> >
> > What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
> >
> > What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
> >
> > Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
> >
> > Ron Gleason
>
> Does anyone use mothballs?

Mice seem to hate moth balls and really hate mint.
UH

[Dan Daly[_2_]]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 9:05:02 AM UTC-5, wrote:
> On Tuesday, December 1, 2015 at 8:03:45 PM UTC-5, wrote:
> > On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-5, Ron Gleason wrote:
> > > For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
> > >
> > > What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
> > >
> > > What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
> > >
> > > Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
> > >
> > > Ron Gleason
> >
> > Does anyone use mothballs?
>
> Mice seem to hate moth balls and really hate mint.
> UH

I've had good luck with dryer fabric softener sheets; no critters since I started using them.

[Dan Marotta]

....And Bounce dryer sheets are the bomb for removing dried on bugs. Use
a wet Bounce sheet and watch the bugs melt. I learned that from a lot
of cross country on my Harley. Works great on the polycarbonate
windshield but I'd try a discreet area before using it on my canopy.

On 12/2/2015 7:07 AM, Dan Daly wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 9:05:02 AM UTC-5, wrote:
>> On Tuesday, December 1, 2015 at 8:03:45 PM UTC-5, wrote:
>>> On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-5, Ron Gleason wrote:
>>>> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>>>>
>>>> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>>>>
>>>> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>>>>
>>>> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>>>>
>>>> Ron Gleason
>>> Does anyone use mothballs?
>> Mice seem to hate moth balls and really hate mint.
>> UH
> I've had good luck with dryer fabric softener sheets; no critters since I started using them.

--
Dan, 5J

[Steve Leonard[_2_]]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 8:05:02 AM UTC-6,
>
> Mice seem to hate moth balls and really hate mint.
> UH

Interesting, Hank. Kansas Mice don't seem to mind them. In fact, they chewed through a sock that was holding them in one sailplane at my field! I tend towards Bounce fabric softener sheets and spring traps if I think I have mice already in the trailer. As with any solution, YMMV.

Steve Leonard

[[email protected]]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 12:08:38 PM UTC-5, Steve Leonard wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 8:05:02 AM UTC-6,
> >
> > Mice seem to hate moth balls and really hate mint.
> > UH
>
> Interesting, Hank. Kansas Mice don't seem to mind them. In fact, they chewed through a sock that was holding them in one sailplane at my field! I tend towards Bounce fabric softener sheets and spring traps if I think I have mice already in the trailer. As with any solution, YMMV.
>
> Steve Leonard

You gots some bad ass mice out there!
UH

[Mike the Strike]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 10:35:13 AM UTC-7, wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 12:08:38 PM UTC-5, Steve Leonard wrote:
> > On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 8:05:02 AM UTC-6,
> > >
> > > Mice seem to hate moth balls and really hate mint.
> > > UH
> >
> > Interesting, Hank. Kansas Mice don't seem to mind them. In fact, they chewed through a sock that was holding them in one sailplane at my field! I tend towards Bounce fabric softener sheets and spring traps if I think I have mice already in the trailer. As with any solution, YMMV.
> >
> > Steve Leonard
>
> You gots some bad ass mice out there!
> UH

I had a pack rat and mouse problem in my Ensign hangar until a rattlesnake moved in. I can recommend them - much better than poison or drier sheets! I have plenty on my lot - free pick-up from Tucson!


Mike

[glidergreg]

I use these. Work great and hold mutiple rodents. No poison needed. I keep one under my trailer and one inside. If you buy them by the dozen under the commercial tab the are very cheap.

VICTOR® TIN CAT® MOUSE TRAP

[IA DPE]

Rattlesnakes... <Like> :)

I've heard of guys in colder climates putting a small heater in the trailer of their fiberglass glider during the winter.

What are everyone's thoughts on that? Is it necessary?

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 6:39:18 PM UTC-5, IA DPE wrote:
> Rattlesnakes... <Like> :)
>
> I've heard of guys in colder climates putting a small heater in the trailer of their fiberglass glider during the winter.
>
> What are everyone's thoughts on that? Is it necessary?

I wouldn't (assuming LCD displays, batteries & water/freezable items were removed beforehand)..... Why?

1-Warm air hold more moisture (thus raising potential relative humidity..... bad thing for corrosion, etc.)
2-More inviting for critters to "show up and winter out"..... why would you do that?

Typical "inside trailer temps" would change slowly with weather changes. Thus limiting shock crazing of gelcoat and other materials.

Just my thoughts.

[Have you ever smelled mothballs?????........ what did you do, spread it's wings?!]
sick humor.... sigh.....

[sorta a "head nod" to the comment Dennis made.... ;-)]

[Craig Funston]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 4:00:43 PM UTC-8, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 6:39:18 PM UTC-5, IA DPE wrote:
> > Rattlesnakes... <Like> :)
> >
> > I've heard of guys in colder climates putting a small heater in the trailer of their fiberglass glider during the winter.
> >
> > What are everyone's thoughts on that? Is it necessary?
>
> I wouldn't (assuming LCD displays, batteries & water/freezable items were removed beforehand)..... Why?
>
> 1-Warm air hold more moisture (thus raising potential relative humidity..... bad thing for corrosion, etc.)
> 2-More inviting for critters to "show up and winter out"..... why would you do that?
>
> Typical "inside trailer temps" would change slowly with weather changes. Thus limiting shock crazing of gelcoat and other materials.
>
> Just my thoughts.
>
> [Have you ever smelled mothballs?????........ what did you do, spread it's wings?!]
> sick humor.... sigh.....
>
> [sorta a "head nod" to the comment Dennis made.... ;-)]

Your point #1 works in your favor if you can make the trailer slightly warmer than the outside air you avoid having the moisture in the air condense on interior surfaces.

Craig

[Dave Nadler]

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 6:39:18 PM UTC-5, IA DPE wrote:
> Rattlesnakes... <Like> :)
> I've heard of guys in colder climates putting a small heater in the trailer of their fiberglass glider during the winter.
>
> What are everyone's thoughts on that? Is it necessary?

Of course its necessary silly.
You need to keep your rattlesnake warm!

[George Haeh]

Darn! I just futzed around with a water
pipe heater when I could have just got a
reptile hot rock.

Remember your rattlesnake won't eat any
rodents unless it can find a warm spot to
digest. When finished digesting you have
to train your rattlesnake to do his business
away from the trailer. Good luck!

At 19:18 03 December 2015, Dave Nadler
wrote:
>On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at
6:39:18 PM UTC-5, IA DPE wrote:
>> Rattlesnakes... :)
>> I've heard of guys in colder climates
putting a small heater in the
>trailer of their fiberglass glider during the
winter.
>>
>> What are everyone's thoughts on that?
Is it necessary?
>
>Of course its necessary silly.
>You need to keep your rattlesnake warm!
>

[Burt Compton - Marfa Gliders, west Texas]

To minimize openings underneath your sailplane trailer, place a bright lightbulb inside and close the hatches. Works best in a dark hangar or in the evening. Roll under on a creeper with a piece of chalk or marker in hand. Mark anywhere you see light coming through the floor. Caulk or seal as needed. This will minimize the openings for the mice or snakes and reduce the road dust and water inside when trailering.

In my hangars I use Bounce fabric softeners generously (makes the sailplanes smell nice) and it seems to discourage mice. I've never had mice inside my sailplanes at Marfa, Texas, but a few inside my hangar. The Victor "Tin Mouse" humane aluminum box "one-way" trap works well although you need to release the critters at least two miles from your hangar. Recently upon releasing a mouse in the grasslands of the Marfa Plateau a Swainson hawk swooped down for a fast meal about 20 feet away from me!

I do not allow any food inside my hangars, ever. Gotta sit outside on my picnic tables for your peanut butter and jelly sandwiches or granola bars. No food trash or empty soda or Gatorade bottles are put in my hangar trash cans and no food inside the sailplanes except a banana or apple which can be tossed overboard in flight. No water bottles are ever left inside the sailplanes as I'm told mice can smell water, even in a container. Paper checklists and FAA aircraft certificates are encased in plastic sleeves. So no mice recently and hopefully no snakes in the hangars but ya never know. Interrupting the food chain seems to work.

Gotta go fly now.

[Dan Marotta]

Excellent advice!

On 12/4/2015 7:37 AM, Burt Compton - Marfa Gliders, west Texas wrote:
> To minimize openings underneath your sailplane trailer, place a bright lightbulb inside and close the hatches. Works best in a dark hangar or in the evening. Roll under on a creeper with a piece of chalk or marker in hand. Mark anywhere you see light coming through the floor. Caulk or seal as needed. This will minimize the openings for the mice or snakes and reduce the road dust and water inside when trailering.
>
> In my hangars I use Bounce fabric softeners generously (makes the sailplanes smell nice) and it seems to discourage mice. I've never had mice inside my sailplanes at Marfa, Texas, but a few inside my hangar. The Victor "Tin Mouse" humane aluminum box "one-way" trap works well although you need to release the critters at least two miles from your hangar. Recently upon releasing a mouse in the grasslands of the Marfa Plateau a Swainson hawk swooped down for a fast meal about 20 feet away from me!
>
> I do not allow any food inside my hangars, ever. Gotta sit outside on my picnic tables for your peanut butter and jelly sandwiches or granola bars. No food trash or empty soda or Gatorade bottles are put in my hangar trash cans and no food inside the sailplanes except a banana or apple which can be tossed overboard in flight. No water bottles are ever left inside the sailplanes as I'm told mice can smell water, even in a container. Paper checklists and FAA aircraft certificates are encased in plastic sleeves. So no mice recently and hopefully no snakes in the hangars but ya never know. Interrupting the food chain seems to work.
>
> Gotta go fly now.
>
>

--
Dan, 5J

[Soartech]

> I've heard of guys in colder climates putting a small heater in the trailer of their fiberglass glider during the winter.
>
> What are everyone's thoughts on that? Is it necessary?

I did that the first year I owned my sailplane. Had on a timer to run only at night. It was probably a waste of power as I opened the hatch in the morning and could not tell a bit of temperature differnece in there. Last few years I just stake down a 20'x40' tarp over the trailer to keep the snow off it and out of the air vents. This seems to work fine with no noticeable moisture inside.

[lynn]

On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 2:23:50 PM UTC-8, Ron Gleason wrote:
> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>
> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>
> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>
> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

I have an aluminum Schreder trailer (30' box length), and when parked for the winter, cover the entire trailer top with quilted moving blankets then two large (12' x 16')tarps. Fasten tarps with bungies across the trailer bottom side to side. The trailer is tipped nose high and tarps overlapped about 12" so no water infiltrates under the covering. Tarps extend beyond both trailer ends 6". Have a thermoset equipped heater set on low (750 watt setting)with tripping at about 45 degrees and have had zero condensation. Probably could dispense with the heater and just use a fan. All openings except for louvers have been sealed so no rodent problem has occurred. This is located in western Washington state with plenty of winter rain and some snow.

[CindyB[_2_]]

> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

What a great thread. Some new ideas! I'm gonna plant some mint around the gear legs of the ones tied out.....even in drought years, the dew can help it get going, and I like it. Some climates would have to think about mint's expanding invasive nature. Much more persistent than dryer sheets, but I need to be more regular about adding those to the evening tiedown protocol.

I've been using old-fashioned Victor products, outside, which makes a few customers squeamish. And please, no catch and release. I've been accused of being soft-hearted, but not in this regard.

For decades, the hangar kitty patrolled inside and outside under the trailer row. Despite his occasional proof-of-work-ethic trophies, He was worth his weight in kibble many times over. But I don't recommend packing one inside a trailer for the winter. RIP, Blackie.

[John Cochrane[_3_]]

A "bilge heater" or two from any boat supply is a good idea. it works like a 40 watt bulb but doesn't break or burn out. It's about $50 from any boat supply store -- or Bruno Vasse's Iboats.com. At night, everything cools and condensation forms, especially on cold metal parts. Those then rust. Inside a hangar can be worse than outdoors, as the cold concrete slab encourages the cold on humid early spring days, and the roof means your solar vent doesn't work. I just put two inside the trailer.

John Cochrane

[HGXC[_4_]]

On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-5, Ron Gleason wrote:
> For many or most of us, winter is here and the gliders are parked for a number of months. I have removed every battery from the cockpit, put mouse poison in the trailer and taken out anything that should not freeze (waxes, plexi-glass cleaners etc).
>
> What is the best way store glider batteries, specifically LiPO4's? Just plug them in the charger? Does it matter if they are in the house or in a cold garage?
>
> What the PDA's and PNA's? Again just keep them on the charger in the warm house?
>
> Any other items folks do to bundle up their gliders?
>
> Ron Gleason

Just put my Ventus away. I store it in a hanger at a not so local airport. I had the annual just before and everything is waxed and looking good. I have been told by some to remove my instruments because the LED lights will freeze. They haven't froze before....My toyota has them and I keep that car outside during the winter so do I really need to go thru the agony of removing instruments?

Dennis

[JS]

Believe the paranoia is at least partially due to the digital displays on Terra -D series radios and transponders, which have failed after not being heated up for a while. Something to do with the adhesive used on the back of the LCD?

Many times I have used electronic devices after storage at well below freezing for extended periods. Anything from voltmeters and tablet PCs to digital audio amplifiers and mixing consoles. The cables for all that crap might not lie flat when removed from their cases, but otherwise no problems.
Jim


On Saturday, December 5, 2015 at 7:22:13 AM UTC-8, HGXC wrote:
>
> Just put my Ventus away. I store it in a hanger at a not so local airport.. I had the annual just before and everything is waxed and looking good. I have been told by some to remove my instruments because the LED lights will freeze. They haven't froze before....My toyota has them and I keep that car outside during the winter so do I really need to go thru the agony of removing instruments?
>
> Dennis

[George Haeh]

My canopy gas strut failed hibernation last
winter after a couple weeks of - 30C as did
another owner's.

Took a few months to get a replacement
and a few days to squeeze it down enough
to get in.

In the fervent hope of not having to repeat
too soon, I picked up a 25W terrarium
heater wire from the local pet store, taped
it around some empty cans, tucked into
duct insulation to avoid hot spots on
expensive composite and put under panel
just behind rudder pedal.

Ran the wire out the canopy opening,
connected to extension cord and
alternated between pushing in the fuse
and pulling the extension cord. There's an
opening for the wire in the bottom of the
trailer when you pull out a rubber plug.
Reminder to self to close hole with plug if
possible, or steel wool if not. Neighbors'
cats patrol the garage in any case. No
signs of rodents, but can't underestimate
the attractiveness of a warm place with
ample nesting material.

Lots of insulation put around front cockpit:
life jackets, cushions, sleeping bag which
won't be otherwise needed until spring.

I left the heater wire on inside the house
overnight. You can hold it in your hand
comfortably.

[Dan Marotta]

I would suggest, rather than plugging and unplugging an extension cord,
to simply use a lamp timer.

For replacing those canopy struts, when the strut for my LAK-17a failed,
I contacted the manufacturer (of the glider) and got the part number for
the strut. After a bit of research, I found that it was the same strut
as used on a particular make and model of German car. I was able to
purchase one at a local auto parts store. I had to replace the socket
ends of the strut with the rod ends from the old unit, but that was not
difficult. This is probably not legal for a certificated glider, but
mine is experimental.

On 12/13/2015 9:32 PM, George Haeh wrote:
> My canopy gas strut failed hibernation last
> winter after a couple weeks of - 30C as did
> another owner's.
>
> Took a few months to get a replacement
> and a few days to squeeze it down enough
> to get in.
>
> In the fervent hope of not having to repeat
> too soon, I picked up a 25W terrarium
> heater wire from the local pet store, taped
> it around some empty cans, tucked into
> duct insulation to avoid hot spots on
> expensive composite and put under panel
> just behind rudder pedal.
>
> Ran the wire out the canopy opening,
> connected to extension cord and
> alternated between pushing in the fuse
> and pulling the extension cord. There's an
> opening for the wire in the bottom of the
> trailer when you pull out a rubber plug.
> Reminder to self to close hole with plug if
> possible, or steel wool if not. Neighbors'
> cats patrol the garage in any case. No
> signs of rodents, but can't underestimate
> the attractiveness of a warm place with
> ample nesting material.
>
> Lots of insulation put around front cockpit:
> life jackets, cushions, sleeping bag which
> won't be otherwise needed until spring.
>
> I left the heater wire on inside the house
> overnight. You can hold it in your hand
> comfortably.
>

--
Dan, 5J