Self-Riggers and disassembly of wings

[Stewart Kissel]

I use an Udo rigger and can put my Ventus B together solo-typically 20 to=
30 minutes from trailer open to finished taping and control check. Howe=
ver I have been unable to get the first wing out by myself when putting t=
he ship away. Without someone on the tip to oscillate the wing, I cannot=
get the spar to start out no matter how hard I pull on the root. I set =
up the Udo device to take the load off the wing-but still no luck. Anybo=
dy out there come up with a system to do this?

[Bob Johnson]

I dunno, Stewart, my Ventus is more of a bear to get together in the
first place!

You might try putting some kind of a pry thing in the spar bushings to
start the process a little. I know you'll be careful you don't booger
them.

Stewart Kissel wrote:
>
> I use an Udo rigger and can put my Ventus B together solo-typically 20 to=
> 30 minutes from trailer open to finished taping and control check. Howe=
> ver I have been unable to get the first wing out by myself when putting t=
> he ship away. Without someone on the tip to oscillate the wing, I cannot=
> get the spar to start out no matter how hard I pull on the root. I set =
> up the Udo device to take the load off the wing-but still no luck. Anybo=
> dy out there come up with a system to do this?

[Stewart Kissel]

Do you set neg flaps and use the spacing tool from the spoilers to the st=
ick? With that and making sure to lift a little on the trailing edge-it =
usually snaps together for me. Although sometimes I need a hand for the =
last 1/2" of the wings pulling together. =20

[John Galloway]

I don't have a Ventus but on other SH gliders (eg current
Duo and Cobra rigging aid) I find I can only manage
the initial pull out of the first wing if I go to the
tip end and apply upload and oscillate back and forwards.
I have assumed that the spar stub end pins need to
be unloaded in the opposite wing root. When using
the Cobra (like Udo's) rigging aid I wind it up to
give upload and then go to the tip and just lift a
bit more and wiggle the whole lot out the first three
inches or so and then go back to the wing root end
and do the rest from there.

John Galloway


At 15:18 14 August 2003, Stewart Kissel wrote:
>I use an Udo rigger and can put my Ventus B together
>solo-typically 20 to=
> 30 minutes from trailer open to finished taping and
>control check. Howe=
>ver I have been unable to get the first wing out by
>myself when putting t=
>he ship away. Without someone on the tip to oscillate
>the wing, I cannot=
> get the spar to start out no matter how hard I pull
>on the root. I set =
>up the Udo device to take the load off the wing-but
>still no luck. Anybo=
>dy out there come up with a system to do this?
>
>
>
>
>

[Bob Johnson]

Ah, the last 1/2", also my bugaboo. I find that pushing on the outie
just makes the other one an outie. This thing, the "space bar", what
manner of beast is this? It seems to be the one thing missing from my
kit. I do lift and push and neg flaps and the rest as the POH sez, but
occaisionally am still known to break a sweat and to utter rude words.

Stewart Kissel wrote:
>
> Do you set neg flaps and use the spacing tool from the spoilers to the st=
> ick? With that and making sure to lift a little on the trailing edge-it =
> usually snaps together for me. Although sometimes I need a hand for the =
> last 1/2" of the wings pulling together. =20

[Stewart Kissel]

Bob-

The "space bar" on a Ventus B fits into hole on the spoiler control rod-a=
bout 2" down from the locked position. It holds the spoilers just cracke=
d open and travels horizontally over to the front of the stick-holding th=
e stick neutral. If you do not have this device, check with some other V=
entus drivers-they should be able to show you what I am describing poorly=

[tango4]

One of the chaps at our club has a heavily tapered aluminium pin that he
fits into the mainpin slot of his ventus. The major diameter is somewhat
less than the mainpin and the tip diameter about 1 cm. By rocking the
tapered pin the last half inch pops into place very easily. He then removes
the Ali pin and pops the mainpin in. Every time I help him to rig I swear I
will turn up a similar pin for my Ventus Bt but never get round to it.

Ian

"Bob Johnson" > wrote in message
...
> Stewart --
>
> No no, you have described it perfectly. If Tommy the K doesn't stock,
> I'll by gosh whittle one myself!
>
> Thanks for the tip,
>
> Bob
>
> Stewart Kissel wrote:
> >
> > Bob-
> >
> > The "space bar" on a Ventus B fits into hole on the spoiler control
rod-a=
> > bout 2" down from the locked position. It holds the spoilers just
cracke=
> > d open and travels horizontally over to the front of the stick-holding
th=
> > e stick neutral. If you do not have this device, check with some other
V=
> > entus drivers-they should be able to show you what I am describing
poorly=

[Stewart Kissel]

Todd-Do you think this pin you described is a factory item?

[Eric Greenwell]

In article >,
says...
> Stewart Kissel >
> wrote:
>
> >Todd-Do you think this pin you described is a factory item?
>
> Not as far as I know.
> Todd Pattist - "WH" Ventus C
> (Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)

They are available from Cobra, at least for some gliders. The one I
saw is made from Delrin or similar plastic, reinforced with a metal
center, and seemed to work very well. I had one made from stainless
steel before I found out about the Cobra unit, which looks like a
better choice.
--
!Replace DECIMAL.POINT in my e-mail address with just a . to reply
directly

Eric Greenwell
Richland, WA (USA)

[John Morgan]

I recently made the tool Todd describes, copying the one provided by Cobra
for the 26E and adding some minor features. The "alignment tool" is made
from black Delrin plastic rod, about 2" OD. The head end has three 1/2"
holes drilled perpendicular to the tool main axis and at 60 degree spacing
around the head so the handle can be easily inserted in any of 6 positions.
The holes are offset from each other so they just clear one another as they
pass through the center of the rod.

The next step down diameter, adjacent to the head, is a few thousands
smaller than the spar bushing ID to provide a snug slip fit. The length of
this section is almost two bushing widths to allow it, once the spars are
pulled into alignment, to pass through one bushing and enter the next almost
all the way.

The final step down end pin is turned eccentric on the lathe and is small,
perhaps 3/4" OD so it will still enter the misaligned spars, as Todd
mentions, the outside of this pin has to be on the same plane as the OD of
the previous larger section. For strength, a 1/2" hole is center drilled in
the eccentric end pin and all the way into the main body of the tool. A 1/2"
steel rod (I used SS) is pressed flush into this hole and should be a snug
interference fit, but not so tight as to weaken the plastic. (I used a
hydraulic press to seat the pin.)

I added an index mark (drill depression - fill with white paint) on the tool
head so to tell were the eccentric pin is when the tool is inserted. This
helps as one can turn the tool by hand, feel for resistance and thus
determine exactly which way the wing dolly needs to move.

Even though the tool head has 3 indexing holes providing 6 handle positions,
I plan on making a 30 degree bend to one end of the handle. Thus, by
reversing the tool handle I can increase the possible insertion positions.
The current 60 degree spacing is okay, but my O2 bottle is mounted above the
spars and sometimes gets in the way.
--
bumper >
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
to reply, the last half is right to left
"Todd Pattist" > wrote in message
...
> "tango4" > wrote:
>
> >One of the chaps at our club has a heavily tapered aluminium pin that he
> >fits into the mainpin slot of his ventus. The major diameter is somewhat
> >less than the mainpin and the tip diameter about 1 cm. By rocking the
> >tapered pin the last half inch pops into place very easily. He then
removes
> >the Ali pin and pops the mainpin in. Every time I help him to rig I swear
I
> >will turn up a similar pin for my Ventus Bt but never get round to it.
>
>
> I've got a Ventus, and fortunately, it assembles with ease.
> My personal opinion is that I'd be uncomfortable using a
> "heavily tapered pin" and rocking it to draw the wings
> together. This process would place a relatively high load
> on the edge of the bushings that the pin fits into. Doing
> that repeatedly might tend to break the bond holding the
> bushings in place.
>
> If I needed to draw the wings together, I'd use the tool
> I've seen that has the end of the pin turned cylindrically
> to a smaller diameter with an offset (but parallel) axis.
> (One side of the pin is smooth and the other side has a step
> at the tip to the smaller diameter cylindrical tip.)
>
> When you insert this pin, the offset lets the smaller
> diameter end enter the second bushing fully (provided the
> pin is turned correctly). You then rotate the assembly pin
> 180 degrees and it pulls the wings together. The force is
> applied over the entire bushing.
>
> Hope that was clear.
> Todd Pattist - "WH" Ventus C
> (Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)


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[Stewart Kissel]

John-

I reversed the ten.tta as I have in the past, but your
address bounced. Maybe something to do with the switch
to comcast? If you get a chance could you email an
image of what you built? Thanks much, Stu

At 18:48 18 August 2003, John Morgan wrote:
>I recently made the tool Todd describes, copying the
>one provided by Cobra
>for the 26E and adding some minor features. The 'alignment
>tool' is made
>from black Delrin plastic rod, about 2' OD. The head
>end has three 1/2'
>holes drilled perpendicular to the tool main axis and
>at 60 degree spacing
>around the head so the handle can be easily inserted
>in any of 6 positions.
>The holes are offset from each other so they just clear
>one another as they
>pass through the center of the rod.
>
>The next step down diameter, adjacent to the head,
>is a few thousands
>smaller than the spar bushing ID to provide a snug
>slip fit. The length of
>this section is almost two bushing widths to allow
>it, once the spars are
>pulled into alignment, to pass through one bushing
>and enter the next almost
>all the way.
>
>The final step down end pin is turned eccentric on
>the lathe and is small,
>perhaps 3/4' OD so it will still enter the misaligned
>spars, as Todd
>mentions, the outside of this pin has to be on the
>same plane as the OD of
>the previous larger section. For strength, a 1/2' hole
>is center drilled in
>the eccentric end pin and all the way into the main
>body of the tool. A 1/2'
>steel rod (I used SS) is pressed flush into this hole
>and should be a snug
>interference fit, but not so tight as to weaken the
>plastic. (I used a
>hydraulic press to seat the pin.)
>
>I added an index mark (drill depression - fill with
>white paint) on the tool
>head so to tell were the eccentric pin is when the
>tool is inserted. This
>helps as one can turn the tool by hand, feel for resistance
>and thus
>determine exactly which way the wing dolly needs to
>move.
>
>Even though the tool head has 3 indexing holes providing
>6 handle positions,
>I plan on making a 30 degree bend to one end of the
>handle. Thus, by
>reversing the tool handle I can increase the possible
>insertion positions.
>The current 60 degree spacing is okay, but my O2 bottle
>is mounted above the
>spars and sometimes gets in the way.
>--
>bumper
>'Dare to be different . . . circle in sink.'
>to reply, the last half is right to left
>'Todd Pattist' wrote in message
...
>> 'tango4' wrote:
>>
>> >One of the chaps at our club has a heavily tapered
>>>aluminium pin that he
>> >fits into the mainpin slot of his ventus. The major
>>>diameter is somewhat
>> >less than the mainpin and the tip diameter about 1
>>>cm. By rocking the
>> >tapered pin the last half inch pops into place very
>>>easily. He then
>removes
>> >the Ali pin and pops the mainpin in. Every time I
>>>help him to rig I swear
>I
>> >will turn up a similar pin for my Ventus Bt but never
>>>get round to it.
>>
>>
>> I've got a Ventus, and fortunately, it assembles with
>>ease.
>> My personal opinion is that I'd be uncomfortable using
>>a
>> 'heavily tapered pin' and rocking it to draw the wings
>> together. This process would place a relatively high
>>load
>> on the edge of the bushings that the pin fits into.
>> Doing
>> that repeatedly might tend to break the bond holding
>>the
>> bushings in place.
>>
>> If I needed to draw the wings together, I'd use the
>>tool
>> I've seen that has the end of the pin turned cylindrically
>> to a smaller diameter with an offset (but parallel)
>>axis.
>> (One side of the pin is smooth and the other side
>>has a step
>> at the tip to the smaller diameter cylindrical tip.)
>>
>> When you insert this pin, the offset lets the smaller
>> diameter end enter the second bushing fully (provided
>>the
>> pin is turned correctly). You then rotate the assembly
>>pin
>> 180 degrees and it pulls the wings together. The
>>force is
>> applied over the entire bushing.
>>
>> Hope that was clear.
>> Todd Pattist - 'WH' Ventus C
>> (Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)
>
>
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>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.509 / Virus Database: 306 - Release Date:
>8/13/2003
>
>
>

[Andy Blackburn]

I agree with Todd -- it seems that a pin that rocks
rather than rotates could score the wing pin bushings.
Schleicher provides an offset pin for assembly that
is turned from nylon (or some similar plastic). It
works like a charm.

For a disassembly tool you'd need different offsets
for the front/aft (left wing/right wing) parts and
the design would be a bit different to promote getting
the bushings to 'un-align', but it should work.

At 14:36 18 August 2003, Todd Pattist wrote:
>'tango4' wrote:
>
>>One of the chaps at our club has a heavily tapered
>>aluminium pin that he
>>fits into the mainpin slot of his ventus. The major
>>diameter is somewhat
>>less than the mainpin and the tip diameter about 1
>>cm. By rocking the
>>tapered pin the last half inch pops into place very
>>easily. He then removes
>>the Ali pin and pops the mainpin in. Every time I help
>>him to rig I swear I
>>will turn up a similar pin for my Ventus Bt but never
>>get round to it.
>
>
>I've got a Ventus, and fortunately, it assembles with
>ease.
>My personal opinion is that I'd be uncomfortable using
>a
>'heavily tapered pin' and rocking it to draw the wings
>together. This process would place a relatively high
>load
>on the edge of the bushings that the pin fits into.
> Doing
>that repeatedly might tend to break the bond holding
>the
>bushings in place.
>
>If I needed to draw the wings together, I'd use the
>tool
>I've seen that has the end of the pin turned cylindrically
>to a smaller diameter with an offset (but parallel)
>axis.
>(One side of the pin is smooth and the other side has
>a step
>at the tip to the smaller diameter cylindrical tip.)
>
>When you insert this pin, the offset lets the smaller
>diameter end enter the second bushing fully (provided
>the
>pin is turned correctly). You then rotate the assembly
>pin
>180 degrees and it pulls the wings together. The force
>is
>applied over the entire bushing.
>
>Hope that was clear.
>Todd Pattist - 'WH' Ventus C
>(Remove DONTSPAMME from address to email reply.)
>