Replacing safety tapes and turbulator tapes - procedure?

[Movses Babayan]

Time to replace the safety tapes - mylars are still in good shape and are well attached.
Zigzag turbulators also have to be replaced.
Could somebody elaborate the procedure? Which adhesive remover, etc?

Thanks,
-MB

[K m]

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 1:07:54 PM UTC-6, Movses Babayan wrote:
> Time to replace the safety tapes - mylars are still in good shape and are well attached.
> Zigzag turbulators also have to be replaced.
> Could somebody elaborate the procedure? Which adhesive remover, etc?
>
> Thanks,
> -MB

Have you referenced your maintenance manual? The entire procedure is spelled out on many ships which came from the factory with Seals Fairings and turbulators. The best adhesive remover Ive found is wax and grease remover but you have to get the commercial stuff at an auto body supply and not the stuff at Autozone. If your manual does not specify the tapes types and dimensions just copy what you have. I find Williams has the best pricing of the Soaring vendors and stuff like the mylar safety tape is available from commercial or industrial hardware suppliers.

[Bob Kuykendall]

Sawzall.

[[email protected]]

Sharp chisel and wood mallet.

[Movses Babayan]

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 1:59:20 PM UTC-7, K m wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 1:07:54 PM UTC-6, Movses Babayan wrote:
> > Time to replace the safety tapes - mylars are still in good shape and are well attached.
> > Zigzag turbulators also have to be replaced.
> > Could somebody elaborate the procedure? Which adhesive remover, etc?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -MB
>
> Have you referenced your maintenance manual? The entire procedure is spelled out on many ships which came from the factory with Seals Fairings and turbulators. The best adhesive remover Ive found is wax and grease remover but you have to get the commercial stuff at an auto body supply and not the stuff at Autozone. If your manual does not specify the tapes types and dimensions just copy what you have. I find Williams has the best pricing of the Soaring vendors and stuff like the mylar safety tape is available from commercial or industrial hardware suppliers.

Nothing spelled out in the manual - the ship is question is Astir CS.
I figured I'd replicate the existing setup, of course. Tesa tape and matching turbulator tape is acquired from W&W.
I was wondering more about the procedure of cleaning/reapplying. Does 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner (red can) followed by acetone seem reasonable? I think that was the sequence of safety tape cleanup/reapplication I observed/helped with on a DG-1000 some time ago.
Of course, this is going to be done in a heated shop.

[[email protected]]

Use some kind of a guide to keep the zig-zag straight, taunt string or masking tape. Clean area just before applying ..........I have used acetone for over 40 years and have seen no adverse affects. (No hate mail please)
JJ

[K m]

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 6:22:54 PM UTC-6, Movses Babayan wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 1:59:20 PM UTC-7, K m wrote:
> > On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 1:07:54 PM UTC-6, Movses Babayan wrote:
> > > Time to replace the safety tapes - mylars are still in good shape and are well attached.
> > > Zigzag turbulators also have to be replaced.
> > > Could somebody elaborate the procedure? Which adhesive remover, etc?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > -MB
> >
> > Have you referenced your maintenance manual? The entire procedure is spelled out on many ships which came from the factory with Seals Fairings and turbulators. The best adhesive remover Ive found is wax and grease remover but you have to get the commercial stuff at an auto body supply and not the stuff at Autozone. If your manual does not specify the tapes types and dimensions just copy what you have. I find Williams has the best pricing of the Soaring vendors and stuff like the mylar safety tape is available from commercial or industrial hardware suppliers.
>
> Nothing spelled out in the manual - the ship is question is Astir CS.
> I figured I'd replicate the existing setup, of course. Tesa tape and matching turbulator tape is acquired from W&W.
> I was wondering more about the procedure of cleaning/reapplying. Does 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner (red can) followed by acetone seem reasonable? I think that was the sequence of safety tape cleanup/reapplication I observed/helped with on a DG-1000 some time ago.
> Of course, this is going to be done in a heated shop.

I don't know about the CS but there is a Factory Tech note for both the Astir and the twin. Look up Lindner in Germany which owns the Type Certificate..

[Bob Kuykendall]

On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 6:30:56 AM UTC-7, wrote:

> ...taunt string...

That's what Twitter is for. ;)

[[email protected]]

The type certificate holder TN on control surface seals is available at:

http://www.ltb-lindner.com/service-letter.html

Second from the bottom of the list on that page.

They specify a positive air seal on the controls "to prevent flutter". It's just a TN and with no AD associated with it so I believe the seals are optional rather than mandatory. I've not heard of any flutter problems with Grobs with the exception of the later "III" series 102's and that had nothing to do with seals but rather with a lack of mass balance. We own a Standard III and it now has huge hinges and big external mass balances as part of the AD that corrected that problem. That particular ship did in fact have elevator flutter once. Actually so did our Acro but that was the result of botched aerobatics which resulted in exceeding the VNE. On our two club Grobs we have sealed the surfaces in accordance with the TN in the simplest way - Tesa fabric tape on the hinge side of the control surfaces.

[CindyB[_2_]]

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 12:07:54 PM UTC-7, Movses Babayan wrote:
> Time to replace the safety tapes - mylars are still in good shape and are well attached.


I know this might seem overly simplistic, but if the mylars are in good shape, and well attached.... why, oh why, would you want to screw with it at all?
But you have already heard from the experts on which materials to use.

Warm air from a hair dryer helps lift the old double sided tape. If you can keep your fingers on it, it isn't too hot. Roll it with the grit of your finger prints. You will have smooth finger tips inside two hours.
Clean, clean, clean before you try to reinstall new double tape.
When you lay the mylar on top, use a smooth wood dowel end and rub firmly to
warm and remove bubbles and get good adhesion. But be kind to hinge spots.

PITA job, any way you look at it. :-)

Cindy

[Movses Babayan]

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:07:34 AM UTC-7, CindyB wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 12:07:54 PM UTC-7, Movses Babayan wrote:
> > Time to replace the safety tapes - mylars are still in good shape and are well attached.
>
>
> I know this might seem overly simplistic, but if the mylars are in good shape, and well attached.... why, oh why, would you want to screw with it at all?
> But you have already heard from the experts on which materials to use.
>
> Warm air from a hair dryer helps lift the old double sided tape. If you can keep your fingers on it, it isn't too hot. Roll it with the grit of your finger prints. You will have smooth finger tips inside two hours.
> Clean, clean, clean before you try to reinstall new double tape.
> When you lay the mylar on top, use a smooth wood dowel end and rub firmly to
> warm and remove bubbles and get good adhesion. But be kind to hinge spots.
>
> PITA job, any way you look at it. :-)
>
> Cindy

Not replacing the mylars, just the safety tapes over them.