Asw19 rudder bolt (evil)

[[email protected]]

Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?

[2G]

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:51:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?

I used to own a 19 many years ago and am trying to picture the bolt that you are talking about. Posting a photo someplace else would help my memory.

Tom

[JS]

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:51:10 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?

If it's the same as some other Schleicher rudders I've sworn at:
Hold the bolt near the bottom with long needle nose pliers. Access through the cutout in the right side of the rudder with the rudder hard left. If it works the first time, buy a lottery ticket.
Jim

[[email protected]]

I got it. I was about to invest in the long needle nose pliers. But that would have to be tomorrow, and I wanted to drop that bolt in today. So this was the trick. Straighten out a clothes hanger. Then put a 90 degree bend in the last 1/2 inch. Then use a small rubber band to hold the bolt onto the wire. Now you can use the long wire to drop the bolt into the hinge.. It took a couple of tries, but it's better than having to buy a new tool.. Or, maybe not..... I do like buying tools.

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 1:15:43 AM UTC-4, wrote:
> I got it. I was about to invest in the long needle nose pliers. But that would have to be tomorrow, and I wanted to drop that bolt in today. So this was the trick. Straighten out a clothes hanger. Then put a 90 degree bend in the last 1/2 inch. Then use a small rubber band to hold the bolt onto the wire. Now you can use the long wire to drop the bolt into the hinge. It took a couple of tries, but it's better than having to buy a new tool. Or, maybe not..... I do like buying tools.

A length of ~.020" SS safety wire wrapped a turn or 2 around the bolt just under the head, fish bolt into hole.
Once it's engaged into the hole, pull wire out (it will unwind itself) and tap bolt the rest of the way in.

Works great on the field where you may be tool limited.
;-)

[krasw]

On Friday, 25 March 2016 05:51:10 UTC+2, wrote:
> Does anybody know an easy trick to install the bottom bolt in the rudder of an ASW19? How do you get that blasted bolt in there so you can drop it down into the bottom hinge?

As others have written, try first which side access hole is bigger, it is not necessarily symmetrical. I've done it with long needle pliers or bent steel wire, and after ten annuals I'm pretty good at it. First tries took hours.

Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.

[Karl Striedieck[_2_]]

You need to first align the holes in the rudder and its bracket. Find a long rod the diameter of the 10mm bolt and insert that part way from the bottom. Then use forceps to push the bolt down.

[[email protected]]

John,

What you need are a pair of extended reach glidernutboltistats. I recommend buying 2. One to keep at the airport and one at home. Here is a link to a picture.

http://daziv.com/gliderdolly/tool.jpg

Since you live in Houston, the easiest thing is to go over to EPO (Electronic Parts Outlet) on Fondren. The specialty glider tool section is over on isle 7 just past the flux capacitors. Everything in that section is made from Pakistan stainless. I think the item shown was under $20 (even though it's worth $200 for a -19 rudder project).

Mark

[JS]

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 6:27:45 AM UTC-7, wrote:
> John,
>
> What you need are a pair of extended reach glidernutboltistats. I recommend buying 2. One to keep at the airport and one at home. Here is a link to a picture.
>
> http://daziv.com/gliderdolly/tool.jpg
>
> Since you live in Houston, the easiest thing is to go over to EPO (Electronic Parts Outlet) on Fondren. The specialty glider tool section is over on isle 7 just past the flux capacitors. Everything in that section is made from Pakistan stainless. I think the item shown was under $20 (even though it's worth $200 for a -19 rudder project).
>
> Mark

Excellent, Mark!
Unsure of Pakistani stainless steel, even after working near the Pakistan Steel works E of Karachi. Did try to buy a hat made in Pakistan, but the fellow in the shop said "let me get you a better hat". It was made in China.
So even a glider pilot may want to upgrade to the Chinese glidernutboltistats at the far end of aisle 7, bottom left.
Jim

[[email protected]]

Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a écrit*:
> Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.

I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel block" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally, you don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole through the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear of the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the front "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not integral with the plunger.

The problem is rather to compress the new gas spring to put it in place. This is the contraption we used last year:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/57691998/photo%201.JPG

[Papa3[_2_]]

Since we're drifting already anyway... the next level of hell is trying to remove the rudder from a Grob Twin Astir that's been stored outside. Cursing in 6 languages, ruptured blood vessels, gallons of penetrating oil, and entreaties to various deities didn't do it. All I remember is that we eventually ended custom-manufacturing what amounts to a bearing puller. Luckily, we have the world's best machinist in the club.

[krasw]

On Friday, 25 March 2016 18:33:31 UTC+2, wrote:
> Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a écrit*:
> > Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt. Even writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
>
> I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel block" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally, you don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole through the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear of the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the front "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not integral with the plunger.
>

That is all fine if you have a gas spring that you can be unscrewed from front fitting, mine was stamped fixed...

[Eric Munk]

Go to any medical hardware store and invest in a pair of lean long-reach
surgical pliers that can be locked into place. Even better than a pair of
bulky pliers. Have been using them for years now. Bought lots of
lottery-tickets since the rudder goes in in one go most of the time...

Gas strut for canopy: factory sells a handy compression tool. Use an allen
key to align the holes. Works even better if fuselage upside down for
access, and instrument panel removed.

At 18:08 25 March 2016, krasw wrote:
>On Friday, 25 March 2016 18:33:31 UTC+2, wrote:
>> Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a =E9crit=A0:
>> > Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt.
Even
>=
>writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
>>=20
>> I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel
>b=
>lock" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally,
>you=
> don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole
>through=
> the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear
of
>=
>the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the
>fro=
>nt "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not
>i=
>ntegral with the plunger.=20
>>=20
>
>That is all fine if you have a gas spring that you can be unscrewed from
>fr=
>ont fitting, mine was stamped fixed...
>
>

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 4:00:08 PM UTC-4, Eric Munk wrote:
> Go to any medical hardware store and invest in a pair of lean long-reach
> surgical pliers that can be locked into place. Even better than a pair of
> bulky pliers. Have been using them for years now. Bought lots of
> lottery-tickets since the rudder goes in in one go most of the time...
>
> Gas strut for canopy: factory sells a handy compression tool. Use an allen
> key to align the holes. Works even better if fuselage upside down for
> access, and instrument panel removed.
>
> At 18:08 25 March 2016, krasw wrote:
> >On Friday, 25 March 2016 18:33:31 UTC+2, wrote:
> >> Le vendredi 25 mars 2016 11:41:58 UTC+1, krasw a =E9crit=A0:
> >> > Next level of challenge is removing canopy gas spring front bolt.
> Even
> >=
> >writing about it gets my blood pressure up.
> >>=20
> >> I suppose you are talking about the transverse bolt through the "swivel
> >b=
> >lock" in the nose? I assume it's the same as on the ASW-20... Normally,
> >you=
> > don't have to unscrew that bolt (you might well have to cut a hole
> >through=
> > the side of the nose to take it out). If you undo the bolt at the rear
> of
> >=
> >the spring (canopy side), the gas spring can then be unscrewed from the
> >fro=
> >nt "swivel block". That block is tapped for the M8 plunger end, it is not
> >i=
> >ntegral with the plunger.=20
> >>=20
> >
> >That is all fine if you have a gas spring that you can be unscrewed from
> >fr=
> >ont fitting, mine was stamped fixed...
> >
> >

Better to look at a surgical supply (or "Medical marijuana supplier") and ask for "10" hemostats", or, "long roach clips". They lock in place.

The SS safety wire is cheap, does many things and won't tend to raise a ton of questions from "official looking types wearing official looking uniforms of various colors".