WAX ?

[JJ Sinclair]

I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some say
NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE. Others
say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
confused, can anyone help?

One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate right
down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE, should I
ever break it.
Winter on RAS, is officially open,
JJ Sinclair

[Nolaminar]

This is easy,
There are those that are "pro" and some "con".
I have learned that the "Pro wax" people are for waxing and those opposed are
against the whole thing.
GA

[Bob Johnson]

Well JJ, if you such a youngster, you probably have never heard of
George Applebay, and therefore would have no reason to respect his
opinion of silicone's effects upon fibreglass structures. In my opinion
you would be wrong to take this position, but then I'm rather new to the
sport myself and am in no position to recommend anything...

BJ

JJ Sinclair wrote:
>
> I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some say
> NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE. Others
> say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
> confused, can anyone help?
>
> One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
> really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate right
> down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE, should I
> ever break it.
> Winter on RAS, is officially open,
> JJ Sinclair

[Bert Willing]

Can't we have a PW5/1-26 thread instead?

--
Bert Willing

ASW20 "TW"


"Nolaminar" > a écrit dans le message de
...
> This is easy,
> There are those that are "pro" and some "con".
> I have learned that the "Pro wax" people are for waxing and those opposed
are
> against the whole thing.
> GA
>

[BTIZ]

wax and weather protect..
slick wings don't like water on them.. if wet fly faster..
do not use silicone based waxes.. like automotive wax.. there was a
"Melgars7" ?? that did not have silicone..
silicone makes for future fiberglass work .. bonding of old and new.. very
difficult..

We use the WxBlocker and WxSeal process, you can see it on Tim's Wings and
Wheels site..

BT

"JJ Sinclair" > wrote in message
...
> I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some
say
> NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE.
Others
> say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
> confused, can anyone help?
>
> One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
> really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate
right
> down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE,
should I
> ever break it.
> Winter on RAS, is officially open,
> JJ Sinclair

[Kirk Stant]

I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including the canopy)
with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs and mud collected
at "low altitude", stops annoying glare (a definite safety plus!), and
when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work is already done.

Wax just gets in those pesky holes - "static ports" I've heard them
called by local pundits - but I usually fill them with epoxy anyway.
Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.

Kirk

[John Morgan]

"Kirk Stant" > wrote in message
om...
> I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including the canopy)
> with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs and mud collected
> at "low altitude", stops annoying glare (a definite safety plus!), and
> when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work is already done.
>
> Wax just gets in those pesky holes - "static ports" I've heard them
> called by local pundits - but I usually fill them with epoxy anyway.
> Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.
>
> Kirk

Kirk,

Sounds like you're using stone age technology. Might I suggest my method to
micro-turbulate the entire boundary layer for optimized drag reduction and
improved laminar flow. For this it's necessary to form omnidirectional,
sub-optical craters over the entire surface. The swirls and ridges left
behind in the use of steel wool just doesn't get it. So to remove bugs *and*
get a substantial reduction in L/D, sand blast the entire ship using baking
soda as the abrasive media. This is also strongly recommended prior to
instrument training . . . no need for "Foggles"anymore!

Can we talk about bovine mating habits, as it relates to gliders, now?
--
bumper - ZZ >
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
to reply, the last half is right to left


---
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[John Galloway]

I would advocate nature's own microturbulator system
and cover the wings with shark skin. Looks cool and
keeps uv and moisture out as well. Not as extravagent
as it sounds as countless sharks per year are thrown
back into the sea minus a dorsal fin for the soup market
and we don't need the fins - except two for the Maughmer
winglet covers of course.

John Galloway


At 18:00 05 October 2003, John Morgan wrote:
>
>'Kirk Stant' wrote in message
om...
>> I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including
>>the canopy)
>> with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs
>>and mud collected
>> at 'low altitude', stops annoying glare (a definite
>>safety plus!), and
>> when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work
>>is already done.
>>
>> Wax just gets in those pesky holes - 'static ports'
>>I've heard them
>> called by local pundits - but I usually fill them
>>with epoxy anyway.
>> Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.
>>
>> Kirk
>
>Kirk,
>
>Sounds like you're using stone age technology. Might
>I suggest my method to
>micro-turbulate the entire boundary layer for optimized
>drag reduction and
>improved laminar flow. For this it's necessary to form
>omnidirectional,
>sub-optical craters over the entire surface. The swirls
>and ridges left
>behind in the use of steel wool just doesn't get it.
>So to remove bugs *and*
>get a substantial reduction in L/D, sand blast the
>entire ship using baking
>soda as the abrasive media. This is also strongly recommended
>prior to
>instrument training . . . no need for 'Foggles'anymore!
>
>Can we talk about bovine mating habits, as it relates
>to gliders, now?
>--
>bumper - ZZ
>'Dare to be different . . . circle in sink.'
>to reply, the last half is right to left
>
>
>---
>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.521 / Virus Database: 319 - Release Date:
>9/23/2003
>
>
>

[Roger Druce]

Great stuff that steel wool. It really happened that a club in the back
blocks of Australia decided to brighten up the dulled finish on their L13
Blanik and polished it with steel wool. Needless to say they were peeved a
bit later to find all manner of rust spots and corrosion pits having
successfully destroyed the great finish on the aluminium sheet that the
manuafacturer had achieved.

Hmmm, so its winter over there and there's naught to do but lapse into
humour. How sad, well it just brings tears to my eyes. Of course, on the
real & important side of the world, summer is comming and its only a matter
(non-trivial actually) of getting the last of gliders out of the workshop
and then into some real flying.

Roger Druce



"Kirk Stant" > wrote in message
om...
> I prefer to vigorously go over the entire ship (including the canopy)
> with nice fine steel wool - gets rid of all the bugs and mud collected
> at "low altitude", stops annoying glare (a definite safety plus!), and
> when a refinish is finally due, most of the hard work is already done.
>
> Wax just gets in those pesky holes - "static ports" I've heard them
> called by local pundits - but I usually fill them with epoxy anyway.
> Anything that small can't be of much use, after all.
>
> Kirk

[BTIZ]

please do... because every time it comes up.. I get told the same thing..


"Bob Kuykendall" > wrote in message
om...
> Earlier, "BTIZ" > wrote:
>
> > silicone makes for future fiberglass
> > work .. bonding of old and new.. very
> > difficult..
>
> Ah, one of soaring's few Urban Legends. Maybe I should try to get
> David or Barbara Mikkelson to post a debunking on snopes...
>
> Bob K.

[Kevin Neave]

Can anyone tell me the best kind of wax to fill my
wings with to gain the greatest height on the pull
up?

Presumably the stuff is stiffer than water (At sensible
temperatures) so I can safely ignore those pesky flutter
limits.

And as long as I use German, rather than Czech wax,
the higher weight shouldn't cause any problems

:-)

(Thermals stopped in UK, waiting for the wave to start!)

[John Galloway]

Try the new colloidal lead impregnated wax for extra
weight and better height gain - allegedly. Wear gloves
when applying it.

There's nothing wrong with Czech wax - as long as you
actually apply enough of it.

John Galloway

(just spent a day off work going shopping)


At 19:18 06 October 2003, Kevin Neave wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the best kind of wax to fill my
>wings with to gain the greatest height on the pull
>up?
>
>Presumably the stuff is stiffer than water (At sensible
>temperatures) so I can safely ignore those pesky flutter
>limits.
>
>And as long as I use German, rather than Czech wax,
>the higher weight shouldn't cause any problems
>
>:-)
>
>(Thermals stopped in UK, waiting for the wave to start!)
>
>
>
>

[JJ Sinclair]

JJ sells a special brand of wax that will give you long life, good health and
maximum L/D, but it will peal right off if used over 80 knots and /or below 500
feet.
:>)
JJ Sinclair

[Dave Nadler \YO\]

Hey JJ - What about waxing a motor-glider ?
See ya, Dave

"JJ Sinclair" > wrote in message
...
> I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some
say
> NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE.
Others
> say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
> confused, can anyone help?
>
> One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
> really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate
right
> down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE,
should I
> ever break it.
> Winter on RAS, is officially open,
> JJ Sinclair

[Buck Wild]

(JJ Sinclair) wrote in message >...
> I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some say
> NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE. Others
> say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
> confused, can anyone help?
>
> One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
> really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate right
> down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE, should I
> ever break it.
> Winter on RAS, is officially open,
> JJ Sinclair

There's a product out there called "Lift-Off".
I was wondering if I should use it only on the spoiler blades, or
should I just wait & spray JJ's wings with it when he's not looking?
A good guide to see where your ship needs wax, is to take a long
flight, and when you return, check to see where the urine stains are
below the clearview. Apply wax there. Remember to use only ear wax on
the static ports. If you fly a Monarch, be sure to use plenty of wax
on the stabilizer, or it might stall & spin without warning.
Also, be sure to finish yer wax job by applying Rain-X, that way the
bugs slide neatly off the trailing edge.
I wonder if anyone has the polar for the PW5 with and without wax?
-Wax

[Tim Ward]

"JJ Sinclair" > wrote in message
...
> >
> >Hey JJ - What about waxing a motor-glider ?
> >See ya, Dave
>
> My wax works miracles on ALL Sailplanes, however it will peal off at the
first
> sound of a Put-Put. :>)
> JJ Sinclair

JJ only puts Whacks on a motor glider. :)

Tim Ward

[Mark Zivley]

Why not just wrap your wings with saranwrap. This way you won't have to
wash the wings, just remove the plastic (and the bugs with it) and put
new saranwrap on each morning. Probably has wonderful anti UV
protection too...

JJ Sinclair wrote:

> I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship. Some say
> NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE. Others
> say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV. I'm
> confused, can anyone help?
>
> One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone is
> really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate right
> down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE, should I
> ever break it.
> Winter on RAS, is officially open,
> JJ Sinclair

[Dave Nadler \YO\]

For "Lift-Off", you need a motor-glider.
See ya, Dave

"Buck Wild" > wrote in message
om...
> (JJ Sinclair) wrote in message
>...
> > I'm new to this sport and have a few questions about waxing my ship.
Some say
> > NEVER wax because if you ever get wet, you will come down like a STONE.
Others
> > say you MUST wax to ward off the TERRIBLE affects of moisture and UV.
I'm
> > confused, can anyone help?
> >
> > One more thing, what kind of wax is BEST ? I've been told that silicone
is
> > really BAD for fiberglass. Each little individual "cone", can migrate
right
> > down into each little "fiber" of my ship and render it UN-REPAIRABLE,
should I
> > ever break it.
> > Winter on RAS, is officially open,
> > JJ Sinclair
>
> There's a product out there called "Lift-Off".
> I was wondering if I should use it only on the spoiler blades, or
> should I just wait & spray JJ's wings with it when he's not looking?
> A good guide to see where your ship needs wax, is to take a long
> flight, and when you return, check to see where the urine stains are
> below the clearview. Apply wax there. Remember to use only ear wax on
> the static ports. If you fly a Monarch, be sure to use plenty of wax
> on the stabilizer, or it might stall & spin without warning.
> Also, be sure to finish yer wax job by applying Rain-X, that way the
> bugs slide neatly off the trailing edge.
> I wonder if anyone has the polar for the PW5 with and without wax?
> -Wax