Powerpole assembly

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I've read the information on how to assemble Anderson PowerPoles, and have the proper crimper. I find the crimped contacts are extremely difficult to slide in. It takes so much wiggling and force that I feel I must be missing something. Are they supposed to slide into place with little force? Is there some secret to doing this? They seem to be obstructed by something before they get far enough in to do the 'click into place'.

[JS]

On Tuesday, March 7, 2017 at 5:29:37 PM UTC-8, wrote:
> I've read the information on how to assemble Anderson PowerPoles, and have the proper crimper. I find the crimped contacts are extremely difficult to slide in. It takes so much wiggling and force that I feel I must be missing something. Are they supposed to slide into place with little force? Is there some secret to doing this? They seem to be obstructed by something before they get far enough in to do the 'click into place'.

There are a couple of different crimpers, mine is the least expensive one - with no ratchet.
I use the crimper oriented so the dent is put in the opposite side of the terminal to the contact.
Jim

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

I tin the wire, then solder into the connector. If solder blobs out, dress down the diameter of the solder to that of the connector barrel.
The last little bit inserting it into the plastic housing can be tough since it's wedged between the plastic and the locking tang.
Soldering allows reusing the connector..
Between using them for glider power as well as electric RC, I have done hundreds of connections.

[Tom BravoMike]

raxy...

I think I know what you mean. I've been doing this for some time now and actually made two more Andersons today. I usually put the plastic part (sleeve) vertically on the table and push the contacts down with some force with the help of a small screwdriver that catches just the edge of the crimped part, where the cable enters the contact. It clicks in beautifully. But I agree, it's not so obvious.

Tom BravoMike

[Bill[_24_]]

There is an insertion tool for Powerpole connectors. Go to: https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-insertion-removal-extraction-tool
I found that the tool sometimes helps when direct force on the wire isn't enough. Sometimes.

As for tinning the wire before crimping, my experience is that manufacturers of crimp terminals recommend against it. If my memory serves me correctly, the solder will flow under crimping pressure and negatively affect the wire to terminal contact. Bottom line is to not tin unless the manufacturer specifically says to do it.

--Bill Mc

[[email protected]]

On Tuesday, March 7, 2017 at 7:43:41 PM UTC-8, Tom BravoMike wrote:
> raxy...
>
> I think I know what you mean. I've been doing this for some time now and actually made two more Andersons today. I usually put the plastic part (sleeve) vertically on the table and push the contacts down with some force with the help of a small screwdriver that catches just the edge of the crimped part, where the cable enters the contact. It clicks in beautifully. But I agree, it's not so obvious.
>
> Tom BravoMike

Thank you Tom, I find that using a small screwdriver as you described makes it quite easy. The metal crimp seems to be a very tight sliding fit in the plastic housing, and its next to impossible to slide it in just by pushing on the wire.

[Dan Marotta]

I solder them, also, and use a small screw driver or dental pick to aid
in inserting the wire into the connector. There's a definite "click"
when the terminal goes home.

On 3/7/2017 8:35 PM, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
> I tin the wire, then solder into the connector. If solder blobs out, dress down the diameter of the solder to that of the connector barrel.
> The last little bit inserting it into the plastic housing can be tough since it's wedged between the plastic and the locking tang.
> Soldering allows reusing the connector..
> Between using them for glider power as well as electric RC, I have done hundreds of connections.

--
Dan, 5J

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

You can crimp, you can solder. Don't accept my word, read the manufacturer.....
https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-assembly-instructions

..

[Craig Funston]

On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 8:28:16 AM UTC-8, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
> You can crimp, you can solder. Don't accept my word, read the manufacturer.....
> https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-assembly-instructions
>
> .

My reading of the manufacturer's recommendations is that crimping is preferred to soldering.

"crimping an Anderson Powerpole connector to wire is much preferred for better long lasting results"

https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-connectors#crimping

Craig

[Craig Funston]

On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 9:14:50 AM UTC-8, Craig Funston wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 8:28:16 AM UTC-8, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
> > You can crimp, you can solder. Don't accept my word, read the manufacturer.....
> > https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-assembly-instructions
> >
> > .
>
> My reading of the manufacturer's recommendations is that crimping is preferred to soldering.
>
> "crimping an Anderson Powerpole connector to wire is much preferred for better long lasting results"
>
> https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-connectors#crimping
>
> Craig

At $35 a good crimper isn't horribly expensive and seems like a worthwhile investment for a mission critical component.

https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Powerpole-TC-1-Ratcheting-Connectors/dp/B00F1OUD5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488994665&sr=8-1&keywords=anderson+power+pole+crimper

Craig

[[email protected]]

Buy the good crimping tool. A small hemostat attached to the back edge of the contact makes insertion effortless.

[[email protected]]

On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-8, wrote:
> Buy the good crimping tool. A small hemostat attached to the back edge of the contact makes insertion effortless.


I got one for $30 on ebay, with free shipping, seems to be the original item. It crimps 15, 30 and 45A contacts perfectly. There are six places where a contact can be inserted for crimping, only three are correct (hint: its not where the 15, 30 and 45 marks are). Its a nicely-made, complicated tool, and I can understand why it costs $30.