Old Contest Letters

[Mhudson126]

I know this has been visited before, but it did not concern me, as I had no
glass airplane to adhere a set of letters too. As it stands, I am trying to
remove some painted on contest letters from both the wing and tail. I know
Acetone does the trick...But any suggested methods to apply it would be
appriciated!
-Mitch

[BTIZ]

Mitch... if you are flying a 1-26.. the contest number is the serial
number...

what glass bird did you get?

BT

"Mhudson126" > wrote in message
...
> I know this has been visited before, but it did not concern me, as I had
no
> glass airplane to adhere a set of letters too. As it stands, I am trying
to
> remove some painted on contest letters from both the wing and tail. I
know
> Acetone does the trick...But any suggested methods to apply it would be
> appriciated!
> -Mitch

[Dave Kuchenbecker]

(Mhudson126) wrote in message >...
> I know this has been visited before, but it did not concern me, as I had no
> glass airplane to adhere a set of letters too. As it stands, I am trying to
> remove some painted on contest letters from both the wing and tail. I know
> Acetone does the trick...But any suggested methods to apply it would be
> appriciated!
> -Mitch

Mitch

First go to rite aide and get your self a king size bottle of flexall
454 cause your gonna need it.

I went thru the same drill 2 years ago. It's all about elbow grease
and a well ventilated area.

I started out pretty sparringly on a clean shop rag and watched the
progress.

Good luck I think it took me about 12 hours to remove that numbers on
the fuselage and the underside of the wing.

Dave

[JJ Sinclair]

Hi Mitch,
In removing old painted numbers, I first try to get the surface level (wing
up-side-down and fuselage horizontal) Then lightly sand the old numbers with
220 (this will help the acetone to penetrate) Then saturate a shop rag with
lots of acetone and place it over the numpers (wear rubber gloves) After about
5 minutes, start scrubbing. This only works with numbers painted over gelgoat,
don't try it if the ship is also painted with something other than gelcoat.
Keep er-sanding with 220, as necessary. After all is gone, sand the whole area
with 600 wet and mask and paint your new numbers, then wet sand and buff out
with buffing compound and a wool pad OR use *stick-on* numbers this time.
JJ Sinclair

[Andy Durbin]

(Mhudson126) wrote in message >...
> I know this has been visited before, but it did not concern me, as I had no
> glass airplane to adhere a set of letters too. As it stands, I am trying to
> remove some painted on contest letters from both the wing and tail. I know
> Acetone does the trick...But any suggested methods to apply it would be
> appriciated!
> -Mitch

Lay paper towel wetted with acetone on the numbers. Wait one minute,
wipe off the numbers. Only works with laquer.


Andy (GY)

[Mark Wright]

At 15:36 19 December 2003, Jj Sinclair wrote:
OR use *stick-on* numbers this time.

Don't stick them on the wings! They really F**K the
performance up . Trust me, Been there , Done that.

[Marc Ramsey]

Mark Wright wrote:
> Don't stick them on the wings! They really F**K the
> performance up . Trust me, Been there , Done that.

How did you determine this?

[BTIZ]

must have come off in flight? or at least lifted a leading edge..

not stuck on right?

BT

"Marc Ramsey" > wrote in message
. ..
> Mark Wright wrote:
> > Don't stick them on the wings! They really F**K the
> > performance up . Trust me, Been there , Done that.
>
> How did you determine this?

[Tim Ward]

"BTIZ" > wrote in message
news:KyMEb.30176$m83.14271@fed1read01...
> must have come off in flight? or at least lifted a leading edge..
>
> not stuck on right?
>
> BT
>
> "Marc Ramsey" > wrote in message
> . ..
> > Mark Wright wrote:
> > > Don't stick them on the wings! They really F**K the
> > > performance up . Trust me, Been there , Done that.
> >
> > How did you determine this?
>

You might want to take a look at:
http://www.ssa.org/Johnson/90-1998-05.pdf

It's about an SZD-55, but there's a discussion in it on the effects of vinyl
contest numbers.

Tim Ward

[Simon Waddell]

I'm having mylar seals fitted to my glider over winter. I elected to have
them stuck on the wing rather than rebated into it (partly for cost, partly
because you can't undo a rebate) and they are thicker than vinyl letters,
but set much further back.

Anybody got any experience on the impact of mylar seals on wing performance
and whether it's important to rebate them. Is it more important for the
upper surface rather than the lower?


"Mark Wright" > wrote in message
...
> At 15:36 19 December 2003, Jj Sinclair wrote:
> OR use *stick-on* numbers this time.
>
> Don't stick them on the wings! They really F**K the
> performance up . Trust me, Been there , Done that.
>
>
>

[JJ Sinclair]

Simon,
I can give you one data point. My early LS-6 came with only the bottom of the
wing sealed (mylar type, venetian blind, I think) Anyway, she didn't get her
killer climb, until I added mylar to the top of the wing. These were just stuck
on and not recessed into the wing. As a general rule, I would say that
recessing is better, but a bunch of work and if done by unskilled hands, could
result in a mess. Use trailing edge guides on your router and monitor the depth
very closely.

Before you start, I would lay a straight edge across the wing / aileron
juncture, see if lowering the wing side (routing out) will cause the mylar to
be forced up as it hits the aileron. This should not be allowed and will lead
to mylar separation when left in a hot trailer. BTW, the mylar width should be
just wide enough to just touch the control surface and shouldn't be forced up
when the control surface is moved. If hinge gaps are too wide to allow the
mylar to completely cover the gaps, then use a *gap bridge* made of thin
plastic or wide tape. Thake a good look at an ASW-27, Schleicher's attention
to detail is something to behold and the cleanest set-up I have seen.
JJ Sinclair