ventus rigging visual clues

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I'd appreciate hearing advice on the best visual clues for getting the wings on a Ventus 2c aligned when rigging.

[Mike Philpott[_2_]]

I have a Ventus cT which is pretty similar for rigging. I previously had
a Duo which uses the same Schempp-Hirth system.

Firstly, before rigging ensure the water ballast dump lever is set to
shut. then unlock your airbrakes. I usually rig the left wing first. The
most important thing then, and before rigging the right wing is to
ensure that the left wing is properly in position, i.e the gap between
the wing and fuselage is small and uniform and most importantly, the
fuselage height should be set so when you look at the right side of the
fuselage, the left wing stub is exactly in the middle of the hole. If you
don't get this right, any S-H glider is a pig to rig. If you set the height

correctly, the whole aircraft goes together very easily.

Hope this helps.

Mike




At 06:47 20 April 2017, wrote:
>I'd appreciate hearing advice on the best visual clues for getting the
>wings on a Ventus 2c aligned when rigging.
>

[Craig Funston]

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 11:47:55 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> I'd appreciate hearing advice on the best visual clues for getting the wings on a Ventus 2c aligned when rigging.

Not sure that the Ventus is exactly the same as the Nimbus3, but I suspect they're similar and will chime in with a simple alignment trick.

Next time you have the ship rigged, make a pair of alignment marks between the end of the left panel spar butt and the fuselage. This will be on the front side of the spar where it sits near the right hand side of the fuselage opening.

I always install the left panel first and the purpose of the marks is to make sure the panel is rotated correctly relative to the fuselage. This really easy to check during assembly and saves lots of grief.

ymmv,
Craig

[[email protected]]

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 11:47:55 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> I'd appreciate hearing advice on the best visual clues for getting the wings on a Ventus 2c aligned when rigging.

Mine is a Ventus C. Try rigging it with the RIGHT wing going in first since that spar is behind the left spar. Then, when you insert the left wing, you can look in the fuselage and SEE the alignment of the left wing spigot with the hole in the right wing where it needs to end up. Its totally easy to see if you need to go fore or aft or up or down. It also helps to tape the top of the right wing before inserting the left to reduce the tendency to push the right wing out a bit when inserting the left.

Bob
BV

[Ron Gleason]

On Thursday, 20 April 2017 17:36:59 UTC-6, wrote:
> On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 11:47:55 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> > I'd appreciate hearing advice on the best visual clues for getting the wings on a Ventus 2c aligned when rigging.
>
> Mine is a Ventus C. Try rigging it with the RIGHT wing going in first since that spar is behind the left spar. Then, when you insert the left wing, you can look in the fuselage and SEE the alignment of the left wing spigot with the hole in the right wing where it needs to end up. Its totally easy to see if you need to go fore or aft or up or down. It also helps to tape the top of the right wing before inserting the left to reduce the tendency to push the right wing out a bit when inserting the left.
>
> Bob
> BV

I have a V2 CX. Agree with Bob, I insert right wing first. Also regarding the airbrakes, yes make sure they are unlocked, in fact SH now drills a hole in airbrake rod and a pin, actually a second threaded pin for the attaching the tip is inserted in this hole to keep them unlock during (dis)assembly. On mine I know the wing is aligned correctly when the airbrake (spoiler) is pushed up about an 1/8 of an inch.

[Dave Nadler]

Here's how I position my ArcusM wing:
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/schempp-hirth-arcus/3exDnET5nTw/gWQz_pyeDgAJ
With my V2C I didn't find the above necessary, but perhaps it will work for you...
Hope that helps,
Best Regards, Dave

[Mike Philpott[_2_]]

I have tried rigging the right wing first on my Ventus cT but in rigging
the left wing first, I have the benefit that I can partially insert the
main
pin. This helps prevent the left wing being pushed back out if the
rigging is not quite aligned when I rig the right wing.

As everybody else has said, it is vital that the wing stubs are properly
aligned. If you don't do this, there is going to be a helluva lit of
grunting and cursing. :-)

Mike

[Mike the Strike]

I'll give you one extra tip too. They are manufactured in Germany in a generally cool climate. My old Discus 2 and now my Ventus 2bx are pigs to rig in the Arizona heat, however careful the alignment - clearly something expands. They always rig easier in the cool mornings.

Mike

[George Underhill]

Not a V2, but I rig my 1981 Ventus b IAW the manual. Dump valve closed, flap handle in S, and horizontal stabilizer rigging pin inserted into the hole in the airbrake tube. Left wing first and main pin part-way in to hold in place. When inserting the right wing I find the key is to sight the relationship between the pin on the left spar and the bearing that it goes into on the right wing root. I look towards the right wing root from the fuselage at an angle. There's not much room, but it is possible to see how close the alignment is. If it's not close it'll never go together.

[Jonathan Walker]

The other thing that helps a lot is:
AFTER putting the Left wing in place
WITH the water dump valve closed
WITH the main rigging pin partially inserted
AND the airbrakes unlocked
WITH the left wing set at a hight such the the wing spigot is vertically
central within right hand fuselage opening IS.....

Put wing tape on the left hand upper surface fuselage/wing joint so that
when inserting the right hand wing it cant get pushed out.

This last step make rigging so much easier.

At 14:31 22 April 2017, George Underhill wrote:
>Not a V2, but I rig my 1981 Ventus b IAW the manual. Dump valve closed,
>fl=
>ap handle in S, and horizontal stabilizer rigging pin inserted into the
>hol=
>e in the airbrake tube. Left wing first and main pin part-way in to hold
>i=
>n place. When inserting the right wing I find the key is to sight the
>rela=
>tionship between the pin on the left spar and the bearing that it goes
>into=
> on the right wing root. I look towards the right wing root from the
>fusel=
>age at an angle. There's not much room, but it is possible to see how
>clo=
>se the alignment is. If it's not close it'll never go together.
>

[[email protected]]

Instead of tape on the right wing I put a piece of wood between the Pin handle and the inside of the fuselage so the left wing can not be pushed out/
Dan
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 6:15:04 PM UTC-4, Jonathan Walker wrote:
> The other thing that helps a lot is:
> AFTER putting the Left wing in place
> WITH the water dump valve closed
> WITH the main rigging pin partially inserted
> AND the airbrakes unlocked
> WITH the left wing set at a hight such the the wing spigot is vertically
> central within right hand fuselage opening IS.....
>
> Put wing tape on the left hand upper surface fuselage/wing joint so that
> when inserting the right hand wing it cant get pushed out.
>
> This last step make rigging so much easier.
>
> At 14:31 22 April 2017, George Underhill wrote:
> >Not a V2, but I rig my 1981 Ventus b IAW the manual. Dump valve closed,
> >fl=
> >ap handle in S, and horizontal stabilizer rigging pin inserted into the
> >hol=
> >e in the airbrake tube. Left wing first and main pin part-way in to hold
> >i=
> >n place. When inserting the right wing I find the key is to sight the
> >rela=
> >tionship between the pin on the left spar and the bearing that it goes
> >into=
> > on the right wing root. I look towards the right wing root from the
> >fusel=
> >age at an angle. There's not much room, but it is possible to see how
> >clo=
> >se the alignment is. If it's not close it'll never go together.
> >

[[email protected]]

Am Sonntag, 23. April 2017 00:15:04 UTC+2 schrieb Jonathan Walker:
> The other thing that helps a lot is:
> AFTER putting the Left wing in place
> WITH the water dump valve closed
> WITH the main rigging pin partially inserted
> AND the airbrakes unlocked
> WITH the left wing set at a hight such the the wing spigot is vertically
> central within right hand fuselage opening IS.....
>
> Put wing tape on the left hand upper surface fuselage/wing joint so that
> when inserting the right hand wing it cant get pushed out.
>

I insert first the left wing with all the advice given above. But I leave 1/2 inch of space between the fuselage and the left wing. That way I can visualy ceck the allignments of the pins and the bearings in both spars (left and ight) before I push in the right wing. Then with the right wing in place, I push the left wing in the last 1/2 inch.

[[email protected]]

On Monday, April 24, 2017 at 2:45:57 AM UTC-4, wrote:
> Am Sonntag, 23. April 2017 00:15:04 UTC+2 schrieb Jonathan Walker:
> > The other thing that helps a lot is:
> > AFTER putting the Left wing in place
> > WITH the water dump valve closed
> > WITH the main rigging pin partially inserted
> > AND the airbrakes unlocked
> > WITH the left wing set at a hight such the the wing spigot is vertically
> > central within right hand fuselage opening IS.....
> >
> > Put wing tape on the left hand upper surface fuselage/wing joint so that
> > when inserting the right hand wing it cant get pushed out.
> >
>
> I insert first the left wing with all the advice given above. But I leave 1/2 inch of space between the fuselage and the left wing. That way I can visualy ceck the allignments of the pins and the bearings in both spars (left and ight) before I push in the right wing. Then with the right wing in place, I push the left wing in the last 1/2 inch.


If I do the left wing first I find myself on the wrong side of the canopy when its time to pin.

DC

[[email protected]]

On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 11:47:55 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> I'd appreciate hearing advice on the best visual clues for getting the wings on a Ventus 2c aligned when rigging.

I got a lot of suggestions for easier rigging of my Ventus 2cxm. Thanks, they were all useful.

I also tried cooling the main-pin. I greased it, put it in a plastic ziplock bag, and left it in a cooler with some freeze-blocks for an hour. It was definitely cool to the touch when I took it out, and it did slide in easier.

The air temp was about 70F, and assuming the pin was cooled to 40F, the diameter would be reduced by about 0.4mil (thousandth of inch).