Modifying Std Libelle with Tost Lilliput Wheel

[[email protected]]

Has anyone done a 337 to modify a Std Libelle with the Tost 4" wheel? Looking tech data for a 337 or a precedent of someone that has already done this.. I know the Tost Wheel Selection Chart shows compatibility and Streifeneder is ok with the substitution but that's probably enough to satisfy the FAA.

[Darryl Ramm]

On Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 5:32:43 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> Has anyone done a 337 to modify a Std Libelle with the Tost 4" wheel? Looking tech data for a 337 or a precedent of someone that has already done this. I know the Tost Wheel Selection Chart shows compatibility and Streifeneder is ok with the substitution but that's probably enough to satisfy the FAA.

Uh this has accommodation for a 4" wheel already right? You are talking off one tailwheel and replacing it with another, maybe with washers or axle spacers? Right?

What major modification is being made here and who is telling you a 337 is required?

[[email protected]]

Hmmmm........
Do you have the motorcycle wheel, the one that has spoke holes? If so, no 337 needed to replace with current factory unit in use (Stiefenater)
JJ

[JS[_5_]]

On Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 5:32:43 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> Has anyone done a 337 to modify a Std Libelle with the Tost 4" wheel? Looking tech data for a 337 or a precedent of someone that has already done this. I know the Tost Wheel Selection Chart shows compatibility and Streifeneder is ok with the substitution but that's probably enough to satisfy the FAA.

Mike et al:
If you are doing this to improve the brakes, a more simple approach would be to take the wheel to a motorcycle brake shop that still does drum brakes. There are not many places that do that sort of vintage stuff.
I've used Vintage Brake in Sonora, California. Mike does a great job of relining and arcing the shoes, but the shop normally has a waiting list. One method to secure a spot and not have your glider down for months is to pay up front and you'll be informed when to send your whole main wheel in.

Vintage Brake
Michael Morse
209 533-4346
info AT vintagebrake.com
www.vintagebrake.com

The last job I sent to them was a Libelle wheel. It could put the glider on the nose after the mod.
Jim

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

What is the long term brake performance?
My thoughts, limited in types, is "Tost" should be "Toast"......,good for one hard braking, then they're toast.
Not sure if it's the braking material or the drum. Pull it apart, sand (200 grit or so dry) on the shoes and drums, great for one hard braking event, repeat process.
I'm guessing the brake material.

Most recent experience is a 2 place Lark. In general, my experience is Tost drum brakes are weak other than the first application.

If you have a better experience, please share. I still think it's the shoe friction material from the OEM.
Maybe your motorcycle shop has a decent friction material that lasts for multiple hard stops, great!

This from someone that has done "band brakes" (1-26 brake against the tire tread.....sucks when the ground is wet) up to various ASW's where you grind the Gelcoat off the belly if you're not careful on pavement.

[[email protected]]

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 11:36:40 AM UTC-7, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
> What is the long term brake performance?
> My thoughts, limited in types, is "Tost" should be "Toast"......,good for one hard braking, then they're toast.
> Not sure if it's the braking material or the drum. Pull it apart, sand (200 grit or so dry) on the shoes and drums, great for one hard braking event, repeat process.
> I'm guessing the brake material.
>
> Most recent experience is a 2 place Lark. In general, my experience is Tost drum brakes are weak other than the first application.
>
> If you have a better experience, please share. I still think it's the shoe friction material from the OEM.
> Maybe your motorcycle shop has a decent friction material that lasts for multiple hard stops, great!
>
> This from someone that has done "band brakes" (1-26 brake against the tire tread.....sucks when the ground is wet) up to various ASW's where you grind the Gelcoat off the belly if you're not careful on pavement.

I never said anything about a braking issue, I said I wanted to replace the original wheel with the TOST wheel.
My A&P interprets the FAA regs as no different parts in a "Type Certificated " aircraft are allowed without an Supplimental Type Certificate issued approving the different part or a Tech Memo from the Certificate Holder (Streifeneder).

[[email protected]]

Later 201's came with a Tost wheel, Stiefanater holds the type certificates for all Glasflugel ships, he also sells Tost wheels. No 337 required, no supplemental type cert needed.
JJ

[[email protected]]

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 4:00:02 PM UTC-7, wrote:
> Later 201's came with a Tost wheel, Stiefanater holds the type certificates for all Glasflugel ships, he also sells Tost wheels. No 337 required, no supplemental type cert needed.
> JJ

Thanks you!

[[email protected][_1_]]

*1 for Michael "Mercury" Morse. Blueprinted and relined my -20A Tost wheel and braking was reliable and powerful. Smelled like rotted fish when applied, however. Small price to pay.

[Ross[_3_]]

I got really excited earlier this year and installed the Beringer wheel in my libelle. Now have a disk brake that works fantastic.
Not sure how you would get around it there, but Streifeneder does have a TM for it

[[email protected]]

On Tuesday, September 19, 2017 at 2:10:36 AM UTC-7, Ross wrote:
> I got really excited earlier this year and installed the Beringer wheel in my libelle. Now have a disk brake that works fantastic.
> Not sure how you would get around it there, but Streifeneder does have a TM for it

Yes...I saw that modification....think I'll stay with a drum brake for now until I get more experience with a tail dragger...My previous flying has been in either nose wheel gliders or skids up front.