transfer/ doublesdied tape.

[john firth]

Mylar seals continue to come loose from my PIK.
Some have been there for some years and leave a yellowish residue of dried
adhesive which can be easily scraped off as a powder;other sections have the carrying film left behind and a sticky adhesive layer on the wing; this needs solvent for removal.
At least two types of double sided tape have been used; one from W and W
came with a roll of mylar; the other source was a stationary supply store
product. Recently I found a dispenser of double sided film trade mark "Studio".
This is el cheapo and not to be trusted.

Any good brand experiences with double sided adhesive film?
It is always the mylar face which lets go.

I have till Sat to make a choice when replacing three lost sections.

cheers

JMF

[Tony[_5_]]

I've always used the Tesa double sided tape that W&W sells with mylar

[[email protected]]

John,
It's not the tape.........it's the surface preparation and cleaning prior to application. I sand both the Mylar (inside 10mm) and the wing area where the stickie stuff goes. Then wipe both surfaces and the Mylar with acetone just before application. Search this site for gobs of info on this subject.
JJ

[john firth]

On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 2:52:02 PM UTC-4, john firth wrote:
> Mylar seals continue to come loose from my PIK.
> Some have been there for some years and leave a yellowish residue of dried
> adhesive which can be easily scraped off as a powder;other sections have the carrying film left behind and a sticky adhesive layer on the wing; this needs solvent for removal.
> At least two types of double sided tape have been used; one from W and W
> came with a roll of mylar; the other source was a stationary supply store
> product. Recently I found a dispenser of double sided film trade mark "Studio".
> This is el cheapo and not to be trusted.
>
> Any good brand experiences with double sided adhesive film?
> It is always the mylar face which lets go.
>
> I have till Sat to make a choice when replacing three lost sections.
>
> cheers
>
> JMF

Ishould have noted that both surfaces have been cleaned with
MEK, then abraded with 400 Si-C and wiped off with MEK.
Maybe acetone has lower contaminents then commercial MEK?

thanks

JMF

[Tom Kelley #711]

On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 5:49:55 PM UTC-6, john firth wrote:
> On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 2:52:02 PM UTC-4, john firth wrote:
> > Mylar seals continue to come loose from my PIK.
> > Some have been there for some years and leave a yellowish residue of dried
> > adhesive which can be easily scraped off as a powder;other sections have the carrying film left behind and a sticky adhesive layer on the wing; this needs solvent for removal.
> > At least two types of double sided tape have been used; one from W and W
> > came with a roll of mylar; the other source was a stationary supply store
> > product. Recently I found a dispenser of double sided film trade mark "Studio".
> > This is el cheapo and not to be trusted.
> >
> > Any good brand experiences with double sided adhesive film?
> > It is always the mylar face which lets go.
> >
> > I have till Sat to make a choice when replacing three lost sections.
> >
> > cheers
> >
> > JMF
>
> Ishould have noted that both surfaces have been cleaned with
> MEK, then abraded with 400 Si-C and wiped off with MEK.
> Maybe acetone has lower contaminents then commercial MEK?
>
> thanks
>
> JMF

My personal experience is also use a bright light to check to see if any shiny areas appear where you sanded and cleaned. Also using the standard stuff might cause what your experiencing. Also use a wooden Popsicle stick to really press down the mylar onto the adhesive.
I use the Premium shown below as it has better adhesion quality's.
Best. Tom. #711.

Premium tesa® Transfer Tape Technical Data
Backing Material PP film
Color Transparent
Adhesive Tackified acrylic
Liner Type Glassine
Liner Color Brown
Total Thickness 8.7 mils 0.22 mm
Adhesion 118.8 oz/in 83.9 N/cm
Tensile Strength 28.6 lb/in 50 N/cm
Elongation to Break 150%

- See more at: http://wingsandwheels.com/tapes-seals/tesa-transfer-tape.html#sthash.O0yFCQ9f.dpuf

[[email protected]]

I've just mechanically removed the old adhesive. (Tool is a fingernail for something small, or a soft scraper like a credit card, or trimmed end of a wooden chopstick, for larger or hard to get to.)

Then clean with acetone and a clean rag, and let dry.

Then trim and put transfer tape down on the plane side.

Then remove the transfer tape cover.

Then push down the mylar, working towards the free end, and go over with the mechanical cleaning tool to make sure is sticks.

Then put an outer layer of speed tape.


Perhaps the MEK is too aggressive and is messing with the transfer tape adhesive.

For new mylar, I might also rough up with 1000 grit, but for old stuff, I figure this was done originally.

There could be something contaminating the surface, like silicone wax, which the solvent might not help with. If so, I might try a completely different solvent system like detergent and water might help. So far I haven't had this issue. Perhaps others here have?

[[email protected]]

On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 2:52:02 PM UTC-4, john firth wrote:
> Mylar seals continue to come loose from my PIK.
> Some have been there for some years and leave a yellowish residue of dried
> adhesive which can be easily scraped off as a powder;other sections have the carrying film left behind and a sticky adhesive layer on the wing; this needs solvent for removal.
> At least two types of double sided tape have been used; one from W and W
> came with a roll of mylar; the other source was a stationary supply store
> product. Recently I found a dispenser of double sided film trade mark "Studio".
> This is el cheapo and not to be trusted.
>
> Any good brand experiences with double sided adhesive film?
> It is always the mylar face which lets go.
>
> I have till Sat to make a choice when replacing three lost sections.
>
> cheers
>
> JMF

Regarding specialty adhesive removers. I notice there is different 3M product that may remove silicone as well as other adhesives. I've never used it myself:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-38984-Specialty-Adhesive-Remover/dp/B0054S5OOU/ref=pd_sim_469_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QT3M7MGQJ88R5766538R

[[email protected]]

Well, it's interesting to know that stuff exists, but it looks like it could turn a nice plastic structure into a pile of goo. Not sure I'm willing to go that far outside the POH. I'm kind of fond of the epoxy structures. A little elbow grease and mild solvents seems to have worked so far.


"Reactive adhesives include adhesives that require a hardener or catalyst in order for the bond to occur. Examples of reactive adhesives include, but are not limited to: epoxies; urethanes; silicones."

[[email protected]]

On Monday, October 2, 2017 at 1:07:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
> On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 2:52:02 PM UTC-4, john firth wrote:
> > Mylar seals continue to come loose from my PIK.
> > Some have been there for some years and leave a yellowish residue of dried
> > adhesive which can be easily scraped off as a powder;other sections have the carrying film left behind and a sticky adhesive layer on the wing; this needs solvent for removal.
> > At least two types of double sided tape have been used; one from W and W
> > came with a roll of mylar; the other source was a stationary supply store
> > product. Recently I found a dispenser of double sided film trade mark "Studio".
> > This is el cheapo and not to be trusted.
> >
> > Any good brand experiences with double sided adhesive film?
> > It is always the mylar face which lets go.
> >
> > I have till Sat to make a choice when replacing three lost sections.
> >
> > cheers
> >
> > JMF
>
> Regarding specialty adhesive removers. I notice there is different 3M product that may remove silicone as well as other adhesives. I've never used it myself:
> https://www.amazon.com/3M-38984-Specialty-Adhesive-Remover/dp/B0054S5OOU/ref=pd_sim_469_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QT3M7MGQJ88R5766538R

I have had good results with Prep Sol. It doesn't disolve the adhesive but makes it softer and keeps it from smearing and sticking back down. Likely other wax and grease removers would do the same. 3M adhesive remover smears when I have used it.
FWIW
UH

[[email protected]]

Applying heat helps a lot, I warm about 12" ahead with a heat gun, then roll the stickie up with my thumb.............slow, but it's the best way I've found.
JJ

[Papa3[_2_]]

On Monday, October 2, 2017 at 9:59:41 AM UTC-4, wrote:
> Applying heat helps a lot, I warm about 12" ahead with a heat gun, then roll the stickie up with my thumb.............slow, but it's the best way I've found.
> JJ

Same experience here, but sometimes use an old fashioned "pink pearl" eraser (rubber for folks across the pond) instead of the thumb.

P3

[krasw]

On Monday, 2 October 2017 16:59:41 UTC+3, wrote:
> Applying heat helps a lot, I warm about 12" ahead with a heat gun, then roll the stickie up with my thumb.............slow, but it's the best way I've found.
> JJ

Using heat gun for tape removal is also great for accidentally removing polyurethane paint from wing. Don't ask why I know.