Trailer paint removal

[Chris Davison]

Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
on a streaky finished product.

Any help much appreciated.

Chris

[tango4]

For stripping paint use Nitromors paint stripper - great on timber,
glassfibre and metal.

Use gloves, an apron and eye protection - it stings like hell when you get
it on skin.

Use a plastic stripping knife to avoid damaging the anodised layer of the
aluminium.

Ian


"Chris Davison" > wrote in message
...
> Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
> from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
> paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
> off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
> this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
> brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
> on a streaky finished product.
>
> Any help much appreciated.
>
> Chris
>
>
>

[Bob Kuykendall]

Earlier, Chris Davison > wrote:

> I want to strip all the paint off
> and preferably leave the metal skin
> 'bare'.

I would strongly recommend that you paint the trailer white, with
whatever paint you can. A bare metal trailer makes a surprisingly
effective oven, and the elevated interior temperatures can prematurely
age your glider.

Thanks, Bob K.

[Craig Freeman]

Chris Davison > wrote in message >...
> Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
> from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
> paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
> off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
> this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
> brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
> on a streaky finished product.
>
> Any help much appreciated.
>
> Chris

I am guessing the trailer is aluminum. A good paint job is quite a bit of
work but here goes. The paint should be removed to get the best job.
Before paint remover you should remove all plastic parts or cover
them with foil and seal the edges with foil tape. I would also seal with
foil tape any gap or seam (like where a rear door would shut)to keep
paint remover out and away from any gasket or rubber seals. After preping
apply a liberal amount of paint remover to the trailer. A large brush works
well. Don't brush it any more than needed to aply it. Thicker works better.
The paint will either bubble or melt depending on what kind of paint it is.
After the paint is loosened use a hard plastic scraper and squeegee the
material off the trailer. Wash with plenty of water. Retreat any areas
that are not free from paint. Next scrub with a red 3m scuff pad and
lacquer thinner until your arm falls off. Now wash some more with your
other arm. Remove the foil tape and carefully strip the exposed paint
using a small brush and paint remover. Follow up with the scuff pad.
Now that the metal is clean go to your local auto paint store and use
a paint system from the metal out. Dupont, Jet Glow, Alumigrip, It does
not matter just use the whole system. Most have a wash primer/conversion
coating, primer and topcoat. If it sounds like a lot of work it's
because it is. Of course you could just hit it a couple of licks
with 220 sandpaper and roll on some house paint and it will look fine
from thirty or fourty feet. Until next year when it all peals off.
All that said I would first try to remove the paint just by washing
it with thinner and a scuff pad. If that works make a deal will with
a body shop to shoot the paint and you can prep it yourself.

Craig-

[Eric Greenwell]

Chris Davison wrote:
> Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
> from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
> paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
> off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
> this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
> brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
> on a streaky finished product.

Since it's poorly adhered, perhaps renting a good pressure washer would
take off most of it. I haven't tried this on an aluminum trailer. Paint
stripper could be used for the rest of it.


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Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

[Bill Daniels]

"Eric Greenwell" > wrote in message
...
> Chris Davison wrote:
> > Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
> > from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
> > paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
> > off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
> > this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
> > brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
> > on a streaky finished product.
>
> Since it's poorly adhered, perhaps renting a good pressure washer would
> take off most of it. I haven't tried this on an aluminum trailer. Paint
> stripper could be used for the rest of it.
>
I second this. The local "U-Squirt It" car wash can remove a lot of loose
paint.

Bob and Craig's points about painting it white with a good paint system are
also a very good ideas.

Bill Daniels

[Steve Hill]

Here's a few tips on paint removal...(yes I speak from experience)
First, pressure wash everything. Second Wash by hand the entire trailer with
a solution of Tide and Water in a bucket mixed 1 part Tide, 4 parts Water
Let dry completely.

Purchase any of the commercially available "Methyline-Chloride" Paint
strippers, I prefer the ones that are called "Aircraft Paint Remover"

Use a well ventilated area, as this crap stinks, and also use heavy duty
chemical resistant gloves as it burns the skin...what I do, is to purchase a
roll of painters masking plastic, it's 4 mils thick. I lay that under the
entire trailer or plane in my case....spread out enough so that you can wrap
the entire trailer....I go like crazy on a hot day putting the paint
stripper on and as soon as I have the whole thing covered LIBERALLY...( only
time you'll hear me use the word liberal by the way) Then wrap the plastic
around the trailer and tape it in place for a few hours...sit back with a
beer on your favorite lawn mower....and leave the crud alone till it's
dry....mostly you'll have large flaked areas which can be scraped easily
off....then you pressure wash the more tenacious stuff...and then you go
back and treat the clingy areas again....generally I can do an airplane in
two days with one helper...try to catch all the nasty paint crap in the
ruined plastic wrapper and discard of that once dry in an appropriate
method...

Easy huh...pressure wash, tide wash, stripper on...scrape, pressure
wash...and dispose....then you need to Alodine 1200 the entire
surface...then use a good "metal etching" primer ( I prefer Montana
Products) and re-paint the whole thing and WHITE....is really the only
choice....

Good luck...happy stripping!!

Steve Hill

[Tim Mara]

I sell and have used Staz-Wett paint remover....see
http://www.wingsandwheels.com/Stazwett.htm
works great
tim

"Chris Davison" > wrote in message
...
> Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
> from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
> paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
> off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
> this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
> brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
> on a streaky finished product.
>
> Any help much appreciated.
>
> Chris
>
>
>

[R Barry]

Purhase any of the commercially available "Methyline-Chloride" Paint>
strippers, I prefer the ones that are called "Aircraft Paint Remover"

Be extermely cautious when using any stripper or product that contains
any methyline chlorine, it will and can be absorbed through the skin
and cause liver and kidney damage, that's the burning sensation. You
should protect yourself from contact wheneve possible.

[Burt Compton]

Reminder: Take the glider out of the trailer. This may seem obvious - but I
know of a guy who stripped the paint from his old, leaky metal trailer - with
the glider inside. 'Nuff said.

Burt
Marfa, TX

[Tim Mara]

if you read the proceedures and normal warnings on the Staz-Wett paint removers you will notice that they claim you can do the removal with their product without even gloves !
Does NOT Contain: Methylene Chloride, Acids, Caustics or Lyes!!!
LOW Volatile Compound Emmissions
Removes:
Alumgrip, Lord's High Temp Paint, Polyurethanes, Epoxies, IMRON, DITZLER, Clearcoats, Lacquers, Acrylics, Enamels
Safe for:
Fiberglass, Kevlar, Graphite Fiber, Plastics, Polycarbon, Magnesium, Aluminum, Steel, Stainless Steel, Flexible Bumber, Trim
Removes Paint from Fabrics:
Cecnite 7600, Grade A Cotton, Dacron (aircraft grade), Polyester, Stits Poly-Fiber
Does NOT Burn or Blister Skin
Can Be Worked BARE HANDED!
Water Neutralizes Chemicals!
Staz -Wett Stripper Technical Manual
In Words & Pictures
I have used this bare handed myself and was amazed that I had no burning or skin irritation.....though I still cannot believe it myself and would regardless recommend anyone useing this use normal protective measures.....
The Staz-Wett remover did also do a far better job IMHO than any other (Aircraft finish remover, Zip-Strip) ect paint remover products I had ever used.. I also used this to remove painted N-Numbers, Contest numbers from gel-coated gliders and found no damage was done on my experiments to the original glider gel-coat
tim
www.wingsandwheels.com


"R Barry" > wrote in message om...
> Purhase any of the commercially available "Methyline-Chloride" Paint>
> strippers, I prefer the ones that are called "Aircraft Paint Remover"
>
> Be extermely cautious when using any stripper or product that contains
> any methyline chlorine, it will and can be absorbed through the skin
> and cause liver and kidney damage, that's the burning sensation. You
> should protect yourself from contact wheneve possible.

[Tom Seim]

Chris Davison > wrote in message >...
> Does anyone have experience of removing flaking paint
> from the skin of a metal trailer? About 1/3 of the
> paint is coming off...I want to strip all the paint
> off and preferably leave the metal skin 'bare'. Is
> this just 'buy a big can of paint remover and a large
> brush' or is it more complicated? Not really keen
> on a streaky finished product.

An alternative to chemicals is a heat gun (available at electronic
parts distributors such as Digi-Key). Just soften the paint with the
gun & scrape off with a plastic knife.

Do not try to sand blast!

Tom

[Andy Davey]

All sounds good stuff to me...
I used a jetwasher on my huge Oly trailer, and the
old paint came off in sheets. If you can get a steam
cleaner, then that'd probably do it even better.

Following all the advice listed here, <I'd be tempted
to try the jetwashing first-that'll get the loose stuff
off first, then nitromors or similar on the more stubborn
bits.

The advice about catching all the sh1t on a sheet is
a good advice, otherwise you could end up in serious
poo with the environmental laddies. Don't use the nitromors
with the trailer standing on your lawn, or on your
neighbours driveway either!

The most important thing once you've got the old stuff
off, is to get a good coat of etching primer on the
bare metal. Etching primer combines(don't ask me how!-no
doubt some spod will write and tell you exactly..)
with the Ally and forms a solid base for the top coats.

Have fun!

[Eric Greenwell]

Steve Hill wrote:

> Easy huh...pressure wash, tide wash, stripper on...scrape, pressure
> wash...and dispose....then you need to Alodine 1200 the entire
> surface...then use a good "metal etching" primer ( I prefer Montana
> Products) and re-paint the whole thing and WHITE....is really the only
> choice....

Years ago, I compared two nearly identical "Minden Fab" style aluminum
trailers, one painted white and the other without paint.

* for the skin in the direct sun, the unpainted aluminum did get
noticeably hotter to the touch than the painted skin

* out of the sun, both skins were the same temperature by touch

* The temperatures inside the trailers within 6" of the top were about
10-15 degrees F hotter in the unpainted trailer

* The temperatures at the gliders (inside the cockpit, near the major
fuselage and wing pieces) were essentially the same

* the top third of the fin was hotter in the unpainted trailer

These temperature comparisons didn't change significantly with the sun
directly overhead or from the side (with the sun at 10 am, for example).

My analysis:

* the hot air inside the trailer rises to the top, which forms an
insulating layer (that 6" of hotter air I measured)

* the sides of the trailer without sun (and the floor) conducted enough
heat away to keep most of the inside of the trailer only a few degrees
hotter than the outside air (both trailers)

I decided the effort and cost to paint the trailer would keep the glider
less than 5 degrees cooler, so I didn't do it.

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Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA