LS3A flap/aileron mixer

[RV 6 Driver]

I am doing an annual inspection on a LS3A and have some concerns regarding the flap/aileron mixer. Just wondering if anybody has any knowledge on proper rigging procedures for this. I have the maintenance manual but it does not address this issue. All I get out of the manual is the deflections and tolerances for the ailerons in a given flap position. I am hoping that there are rigging pins for this but I just don't know. Any help would be appreciated.

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Never found anything in writing, but when I had a 3 that didn’t fly straight, I set the ailerons to match the wing tip fairing, then set the flaps to match the inboard end of the ailerons. Then I checked for semidry in all flap positions. Ship flew straight after that.
Hope this helps,
JJ

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Start with the flaps in zero and the stick in the middle. If the ship has seen major trauma, the stick may not be in the middle which is adjusted at the bottom of the stick. All flap angles must be the same left and right, I wouldn’t worry too much about the exact book angle, as long as they both read the same.
JJ

[RV 6 Driver]

Thanks JJ! I will take a look at it a 0 flaps

[Charlie Quebec]

I got laser cut templates and accurately marked the neutral point and deflection limits. Worked great.

[Charles Longley]

JJ do you think the same will work for an ASW-20? The ship I just bought had major trauma in the past.

[JS[_5_]]

On Monday, May 20, 2019 at 9:50:13 AM UTC-7, Charles Longley wrote:
> JJ do you think the same will work for an ASW-20? The ship I just bought had major trauma in the past.

Seen it used on ASW12 after the flap mod, and Ventus B (while becoming a C).
Jim

[BobW]

On 5/20/2019 10:50 AM, Charles Longley wrote:
> JJ do you think the same will work for an ASW-20? The ship I just bought
> had major trauma in the past.

Short of having the manufacturer's jigs available, "It's the best you can do."
Each ship, after all, was created *from* those jigs (& molds), and arguably
represents the best the manufacturer could do at the time each ship was built.

In piece part terms, the "core of the fuselage" (i.e. the wing root area)
arguably is going to be the most stable bit pulled from any mold, and as such
"naturally" becomes a reference base from which to measure (and set)
everything else...which is what JJ's method does. You gotta start SOMEwhere!

Have at it, and good luck!

Bob - former modeler/ex-aerospacey-engineer - W.

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Roger on the 20 which is even better because you have the end of the aileron as a reference and the flap/fuselage fairing as another reference point. I have found adjustments that were made to stop a turning tendency by cranking one aileron up or down to stop the turn, but that doesn’t work! Both ailerons will equal out the new setting by flying up (or down) a tad and the turn remains. The only way to stop a turn is by installing a small trim tap, bent up or down in the direction indicated.
JJ

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Or with eccentric wing carry through pins, as a few ASW 19s required back in the late 1970s. They altered one wing's angle of incidence. Or maybe both.. They apparently brought the two wings more into alignment. I've never understood how the main spar pins still went in. I suppose the adjustment was very small and one wing was very slightly twisted. Anyone recall this?

Chip Bearden
JB