Wanted: FRONT nose Trim weights for LS gliders

[[email protected]]

Does anyone have nose trim weights for their LS-3 up to LS-10 glider that they do not use and would sell to me? They are 2.45 kg = 5.4 lbs each.

I need TWO more trim weights for the nose of my LS-8 that I can add when I fly and remove when my husband flies.

Thanks.

--Cathy

[Paul Kaye]

On Monday, 10 June 2019 17:00:03 UTC+1, wrote:
> Does anyone have nose trim weights for their LS-3 up to LS-10 glider that they do not use and would sell to me? They are 2.45 kg = 5.4 lbs each.
>
> I need TWO more trim weights for the nose of my LS-8 that I can add when I fly and remove when my husband flies.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --Cathy

I have some weights but I'd like to keep them (and I'm based in the UK)! However, I'd be happy to give you detailed dimensions; I'd sure you'd be able to get some made up by a local machine shop. They're just oblong blocks with a hole in them :).

[[email protected]]

Paul,

We were thinking of that. We actually have one already (I need three total), so we have a real-live model! So thanks for this post and offer to provide measurements. Maybe just hearing someone say to just get them made is what I needed to hear to just do that.

--Cathy

[Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)]

You can do a plaster cast of existing, then go to a fishing store and buy large sinkers. Melt them in a steel can (coffee can, etc.) using a small propane torch.
Pour into your plaster mold, let cool......done.
Yes, many variations on the theme, but all basically he same.

[Per Carlin]

Easiest way of doing nose trim weights is to make an dwg (cad-file) of the chunk and go to a local laser-/plasma- or water cutting work shop. They can plates in 5-10mm steel. As steel has lower density do you need a higher stack of plates to get the weight right, there are usually a lot of space for ballast in the LS-ships so this is not an issue.
If you do not have the skills to make the dwg file, just make a drawing in scale 1:1 on a paper and give it to the workshop. Most likely can the make their own drawing.

[[email protected]]

There are nice suggestions, thanks!

I am going to check with a machine shop that I found one town over from me to see what they'd want as input. I've never used a cad program myself, but know people and I have done mechanical drawing before albeit 43 years ago! Not a hard part to draw,

You are correct that the post that holds the ballast is pretty tall (double the height?) compared to the height that the maximum of three trim ballasts allowed would be.

Well, I've gotta get out to the airport to retrieve my existing ballast from the cockpit and then I can get started!

--Cathy

[[email protected]]

On Wednesday, June 12, 2019 at 8:14:35 AM UTC-4, wrote:
> There are nice suggestions, thanks!
>
> I am going to check with a machine shop that I found one town over from me to see what they'd want as input. I've never used a cad program myself, but know people and I have done mechanical drawing before albeit 43 years ago! Not a hard part to draw,
>
> You are correct that the post that holds the ballast is pretty tall (double the height?) compared to the height that the maximum of three trim ballasts allowed would be.
>
> Well, I've gotta get out to the airport to retrieve my existing ballast from the cockpit and then I can get started!
>
> --Cathy

You can also buy lead sheet from McMaster- Carr supply in a thickness that can be cut with tin snips. Stack up as many as needed.
UH

[George Haeh]

Cathy,

Be extremely careful about melting lead in the kitchen. You can contaminate your house and expose yourself and [grand]children to dust and fumes.

Lead weights get distorted from being bumped about and may no longer fit into an enclosure. Filing creates neurotoxic dust.

Consider brass.

DG uses it in the DG-1001

[[email protected]]

No worries, I am going to check out a machine shop to make them and they probably will not be lead! The most I’ll do at my kitchen table is to make a scale drawing if they want it!

Thanks everyone for the tips.

[Ray Lovinggood[_2_]]

On Monday, June 10, 2019 at 12:00:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
> Does anyone have nose trim weights for their LS-3 up to LS-10 glider that they do not use and would sell to me? They are 2.45 kg = 5.4 lbs each.
>
> I need TWO more trim weights for the nose of my LS-8 that I can add when I fly and remove when my husband flies.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --Cathy

Not an exact response to the original poster: My LS1-d is tail heavy and needs weight in the nose. Several years ago, an A&P shop built a ballast box per the Technical Note from LS, but made it out of sheet metal rather than fiberglass.

They cut a hole in the floor in front of the instrument panel, again according to the TN.

They bolted the box to the floor. Top of the open box is flush with the floor.

Okay, the ballast box wasn't quite the exact dimensions per the TN, but close. They modified the dimensions so I could get two sealed lead-acid batteries in the box.

Works great. I have room for two batteries. Depending on when and where I buy them, they are 10 ah or 10.5 ah "ballast weights".

[Paul Kaye]

Here's a shot of a ballast weight with the dimensions added:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/paul_kaye/70f1Xf

[[email protected]]

Thanks Paul, for the photo and measurements! I was able to retrieve the one that I have from my cockpit yesterday (before it rained!). But now I don't have to do so much! It IS really simple!

The corners on mine are also worn out/rounded off, and so I think this is an important feature---not to have sharp corners.

I will post what happens when I go to the machinist---depending on my work schedule, it may be a few days. It is always fun to have some project related to soaring going on.

[[email protected]]

After seeing the photo, I believe I have some LS-3/4 nose weights. 3.6 #, 4.0#, and 6.2#. Believe a couple of them will solve your problem. Have photo.
JJ