Product to remove oil stains from concrete for painting?

[Scott]

I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?


--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article >,
Scott > wrote:

> I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
> of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?


Get the stuff from any automitive supply place, or try "Kitty Litter."

[Corky Scott]

On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 11:05:30 +0000, Scott >
wrote:

>I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
>concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
>mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
>floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
>"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
>of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?

Scott, any place that sells the paint for a concrete floor also sells
a product that will clean it. I think it involves washing the floor
with some sort of acid solution, then thorough rinsing, then extended
drying and finally the actual paint application.

Corky Scott

[Tim Ward]

"Orval Fairbairn" > wrote in message
.
...
> In article >,
> Scott > wrote:
>
> > I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> > concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> > mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> > floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> > "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
> > of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>
> Get the stuff from any automitive supply place, or try "Kitty Litter."

I've had good luck on my driveway using TSP.
That used to be tri-sodium phosphate, but now the label says it's sodium
carbonate and sodium sesquicarbonate.
I sprinkle it on fairly heavy, then keep it wet for awhile, scrub a little
with a stiff broom, and wash it off. It gets off the heavy deposits,
anyway.

Tim Ward

[Bingo]

I used lacquer thinner and it works great. Dries fast. You might consider
doing a tile floor. I did it in my garage and it works great. More
resistance to scratching, eay to clean, and won't peel up like a lot of the
painted hangars here at the airpark. Get the tile that they use in grocery
stores. I am talking about the stuff that is similar to what used to be
called VAT, or vinyl asbestos tile. You can get it in 16x16 tiles, and it's
easy to lay down. If you have the money, hire it done.

Jim
"Scott" > wrote in message
...
> I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
> of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>
> --
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Building RV-4
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Scott]

Thanks for the tip. I will check and see if they have any ideas...

Scott


Corky Scott wrote:

> On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 11:05:30 +0000, Scott >
> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
>>concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
>>mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
>>floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
>>"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
>>of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>
> Scott, any place that sells the paint for a concrete floor also sells
> a product that will clean it. I think it involves washing the floor
> with some sort of acid solution, then thorough rinsing, then extended
> drying and finally the actual paint application.
>
> Corky Scott

--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Scott]

Damn! Never thought about that. Unfortunately, the shop is 26' X 100'.
Lotsa tiles man! And too cheap to hire the job out. Fortunately,
the shop can be sub-divided, so I could tile approx. 26' X 36' and it
wouldn't be such a damn stressful weekend project! ;)

Scott


Bingo wrote:

> I used lacquer thinner and it works great. Dries fast. You might consider
> doing a tile floor. I did it in my garage and it works great. More
> resistance to scratching, eay to clean, and won't peel up like a lot of the
> painted hangars here at the airpark. Get the tile that they use in grocery
> stores. I am talking about the stuff that is similar to what used to be
> called VAT, or vinyl asbestos tile. You can get it in 16x16 tiles, and it's
> easy to lay down. If you have the money, hire it done.
>
> Jim
> "Scott" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
>>concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
>>mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
>>floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
>>"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
>>of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>>
>>
>>--
>>Scott
>>http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
>>Building RV-4
>>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
>
>
>

--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Mike Murdock]

http://www.pournrestore.com/

Just bought a bottle, haven't tried it yet.

-Mike

"Scott" > wrote in message
...
> I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
> of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>
> --
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Building RV-4
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Stan Kap]

Scott,

I watched a guy at an airport one time that took a 55 gal drum cut off both
ends then set it over the spot on the floor where the oil was, he then
poured some fuel on the stain inside the perimeter of the drum and set it on
fire. It burned away the oil stain completely. Later he epoxied the entire
hangar. It was a big hangar too, about 150 x 200 for King Airs and the
Citations.

Stan Kapushinski



"Scott" > wrote in message
...
> I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
> of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>
> --
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Building RV-4
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Bart D. Hull]

Scott,

I painted my floor 10 years ago and only have a spot the size of the
bottom of a pop can that came off under the
hot tire of my pickup truck. I used a strong TSP solution (use the REAL
stuff, not a TSP substitute) and then sanded
the entire floor real good with a 20" floor buffer from a local rental
shop. I used a 2 part epoxy floor paint from
Sherwin-Williams industrial paint store. (Don't know if they make the
stuff anymore.) I used 2 gallons for a deep
2 car garage. I suggest using the color flakes that you can sprinkle on
the wet epoxy to give it a bit of traction. My
floor is a bit slippery but I can easily clean it with a cloth broom and
every bit of composite dust is taken up with
little effort.

Don't skim on the prep or the paint or you'll end up like my friends
neighbor. After a month of not parking in the garage
the neighbor drove his new 'Vette into the garage and parked it after
the tires were good and warm. When he pulled out
of the garage the paint rolled up on his tires. He was seriously bummed.

Some visitors from the local metalworking club came over for a little
show and tell on composite construction and visited my
garage-shop. No one brought doughnuts like at the other meetings and I
inquired why afterwards. They mentioned they didn't
want to make a mess in my clean shop. Shoot, I would have thrown some
dirt down if I knew my shop and floor were gonna
cost me doughnuts! Floor must have looked a bit too good in my shop
photos. See links below if you want to see my shop
and floor.

Bart

--
Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.


Scott wrote:

> I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some
> sort of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>

[rich a.]

I work in the monument (gravestones) industry and we occasionally need
to remove oil spots on granite/marble monuments, usually caused by
careless lawn workers putting an oil can on a monument.

While the following method may not be suitable for an entire floor, it
works good for smaller spots. Make a poultice paste of common white
plaster and laquer thinner (or white gas) and slather it on the stain
with a trowel, leaving it approx 1/2" thick (thickness not critical).
As it drys the plaster will draw out the oil. When dry, scrape/sweep
it off. Be careful not to let the plaster get wet from water (if
outside cover with plastic sheet) or it will harden and will have to
be chipped off with a chisel. Like I said, this may not be practible
for a large floor....but will do the trick for smaller stains from
engine oil drips on a hanger floor. Deep stains may require more than
one treatment.

Usual disclaimer about being careful with fire/sparks near flammable
substances, etc.

Rich A.

[Scott]

I'm not sure I'd like to try that...probably would end up setting the
whole township on fire with my luck ;)

Scott


Stan Kap wrote:
> Scott,
>
> I watched a guy at an airport one time that took a 55 gal drum cut off both
> ends then set it over the spot on the floor where the oil was, he then
> poured some fuel on the stain inside the perimeter of the drum and set it on
> fire. It burned away the oil stain completely. Later he epoxied the entire
> hangar. It was a big hangar too, about 150 x 200 for King Airs and the
> Citations.
>
> Stan Kapushinski
>
>
>
> "Scott" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
>>concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
>>mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
>>floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
>>"Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
>>of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>>
>>
>>--
>>Scott
>>http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
>>Building RV-4
>>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
>
>
>
>

--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Clay]

(rich a.) wrote in message >...
> I work in the monument (gravestones) industry and we occasionally need
> to remove oil spots on granite/marble monuments, usually caused by
> careless lawn workers putting an oil can on a monument.
Try Klenztone #1 to clean the concrete or even limestone. IRT,
Lee's Summit, Mo. 816-795-1106, sells Klenztone. This stuff is
terriffic!!!!!!! I used it to clean up a 40 year old wearhouse floor
at a salt mine in Kansas. We used it clean and prep damaged areas of
the floor. Belzona 4111 (epoxy concrete) was used to repair the
floor. An outfit by the name of BB Casewell has had good luck putting
down epoxy floor finishes. I think they are out of St. Joseph, Mo.
The folks at IRT could direct you the them.
Tide detergent also works but is a mess to clean up. I have used the
method Rich talked about and it does work. You may also try the same
thing with fine sawdust and the solvent of your choice.

While the following method may not be suitable for an entire floor, it
> works good for smaller spots. Make a poultice paste of common white
> plaster and laquer thinner (or white gas) and slather it on the stain
> with a trowel, leaving it approx 1/2" thick (thickness not critical).
> As it drys the plaster will draw out the oil. When dry, scrape/sweep
> it off. Be careful not to let the plaster get wet from water (if
> outside cover with plastic sheet) or it will harden and will have to
> be chipped off with a chisel. Like I said, this may not be practible
> for a large floor....but will do the trick for smaller stains from
> engine oil drips on a hanger floor. Deep stains may require more than
> one treatment.
>
> Usual disclaimer about being careful with fire/sparks near flammable
> substances, etc.
>
> Rich A.
>

[Sid Sawyer]

I've had good luck with two unlikely products.
1. Cement. Straight out of the 94 pound bag. I use it as a sweeping
compound. It sucks the oil right out of the concrete. I've never tried
painting over it, though.
2. Liquid diswashing detergent. Not the kind you squirt in the sink, the
kind you squirt in the dishwasher. It works especially well outdoors where
the sun can later bleach it.


"Scott" > wrote in message
...
> I'm looking to find some product that can remove oil stains from
> concrete so that paint will stick. My shop used to be used by a car
> mechanic and now that I build airplanes in it, I'd like to paint the
> floor a very light gray or off-white. I don't think that just using
> "Gunk" will remove it enough to get the paint to stick. Maybe some sort
> of epoxy-like sealer first? Any ideas?
>
>
> --
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Building RV-4
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die

[Ed Wischmeyer]

http://www.pournrestore.com/


I used Pour 'n Restore to get the oil stains out of my concrete floor so I
could paint it. Worked great, I'm a believer. After I got the oil stains
up, then I did the acid etch.

IIRC, I used the Sherwin Williams garage floor treatment, and after they
sold it to me and I botched the application, they said it should only be
applied by professionals.

Oh, well.

Ed Wischmeyer

[Bart D. Hull]

Ed,

Didn't we talk about my experience in painting my garage
floor before you did yours?

What do you think got "botched" when you applied it.

I believe I used the same product and got awesome results.

Bart

Bart D. Hull

Tempe, Arizona

Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.



Ed Wischmeyer wrote:

> http://www.pournrestore.com/
>
>
> I used Pour 'n Restore to get the oil stains out of my concrete floor
> so I could paint it. Worked great, I'm a believer. After I got the oil
> stains up, then I did the acid etch.
>
> IIRC, I used the Sherwin Williams garage floor treatment, and after
> they sold it to me and I botched the application, they said it should
> only be applied by professionals.
>
> Oh, well.
>
> Ed Wischmeyer

[Ed Wischmeyer]

On 2004-09-12 22:36:04 -0700, "Bart D. Hull" >
said:

> Didn't we talk about my experience in painting my garage
> floor before you did yours?
>
> What do you think got "botched" when you applied it.

I have no idea what I did right or wrong. Other folks in the neighborhood
have used the same product, some got great results, some got poor results.
It might be the concrete, stains that didn't come out completely, or phase
of the moon. Totally flat learning curve on this one...

Ed

[George W. Shrub]

"Bart D. Hull" > wrote in message
...
> Ed,
>
> Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
> for my Subaru Engine Conversion
> Check http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
> for Tango II I'm building.
>

Looks like the website was more work than the plane! Thanks for all the
detailed photos & info.