View Full Version : Finding German Spec Rivet replacement
I need to replace a rivet on my canopy latch on my LS-6. It is a DIN 7338 type B (semi tubular) 6mm diameter, with 15mm length from the drawing and emailing from DG. Its the rivet that handle pivots on when pushing the aft latch pin backwards. I think I can replace it with a bolt/washer/nut combo, but it won't look as nice, and I'd like to keep things to spec as possible.
I live in the USA, so its been a challenge from some googling, to finding german spec fasteners or american equivalents for a brake lining rivet with the needed dimensions. I can purchase the rivet from manufactures but I have to buy a minimum of 1000 rivets.
I was wondering if anyone had a source to buy a much more manageable amount of rivets, or if someone has found a good solution to a replacement since its the same latch used on LS-6/7/8.
Of course if someone has some extras around, I'd be happy purchase a couple and pay for shipping.
I understand the DG tax, and even if it was free, it still be a pain to get a replacement from DG since one rivet isn't close to their minimum for shipping something, for obvious reasons.
On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 2:54:17 PM UTC-4, wrote:
> I need to replace a rivet on my canopy latch on my LS-6. It is a DIN 7338 type B (semi tubular) 6mm diameter, with 15mm length from the drawing and emailing from DG. Its the rivet that handle pivots on when pushing the aft latch pin backwards. I think I can replace it with a bolt/washer/nut combo, but it won't look as nice, and I'd like to keep things to spec as possible.
>
> I live in the USA, so its been a challenge from some googling, to finding german spec fasteners or american equivalents for a brake lining rivet with the needed dimensions. I can purchase the rivet from manufactures but I have to buy a minimum of 1000 rivets.
>
> I was wondering if anyone had a source to buy a much more manageable amount of rivets, or if someone has found a good solution to a replacement since its the same latch used on LS-6/7/8.
>
> Of course if someone has some extras around, I'd be happy purchase a couple and pay for shipping.
>
> I understand the DG tax, and even if it was free, it still be a pain to get a replacement from DG since one rivet isn't close to their minimum for shipping something, for obvious reasons.
Those rivets also usually require a special tool to swage the end. Bushing,screw, and locknut may be an easier solution.
UH
RobKol
April 24th 20, 10:40 PM
https://valleyfastener.com/rivets/semi-tubular-rivets/
6 mm is .23622 inches. The hole is likely "ovalized" so ream (not drill!) the hole to a 0.25 inch round hole and put an inch rivet in it. Inch tubular rivets are widely available.
You will also need tools: Rivet squeezer (likely require a pneumatic device for a steel rivet) and the proper "roll" die. Local A&P may have the tools and install the rivet for you. It is a skill. Unlikely most people would get it right the first time. The tools are expensive.
I would and have done what UH suggested: Bolt, bushing, and locking nut, if space allows.
I replaced the rivet with a 1/4” Cleve’s pin with enough washers to make it snug, keep it there with a carter pin.
JJ
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 8:05:31 AM UTC-6, wrote:
> I replaced the rivet with a 1/4” Cleve’s pin with enough washers to make it snug, keep it there with a carter pin.
> JJ
Clevis pin. Cotter pin. Translated to English from whatever language was originally used.
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 11:10:57 AM UTC-4, wrote:
> On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 8:05:31 AM UTC-6, wrote:
> > I replaced the rivet with a 1/4” Cleve’s pin with enough washers to make it snug, keep it there with a carter pin.
> > JJ
>
> Clevis pin. Cotter pin. Translated to English from whatever language was originally used.
Translated from Californian.
LOL
UH
OK, you guys..........a Clovis pin looks just like the hollow rivet, but it’s solid and has a hole in one end where a carter pin and at least one washer is used to secure the device in place. Aircraft Mechanics know all about these things! While we’re here........I remember a UK Airworthiness Directive that read “ With a torch in one hand and a spanner in the other hand, remove the xxxx”
Took me a week to figure out a “torch” was a flashlight and a “spanner” was a Crescent Wrench!!!
JJ.
As usual, JJ's idea is a good one. If you go this route, ensure you carefully band the cotter pin ends over very well and neatly. They have the strong potential to impale the user, if not. Get your tetanus shot!
As I recall, I unbolted the canopy locking handle from the canopy rail, inserted the Clovis Pin with the hole facing outboard and then bent the Carter Pin so as to make it look like a gigantic Smiley Face! Therefore, preventing pilot lacerations!
Anybody in need of translation?
JJ
PS, the handle was reinstated by holding the little nuts with needle - nose pliers and driving the screw from its other end on the seal side of the canopy rail!
I'm not familiar with your exact installation but a hylock might work well?
I would use one if possible over a pin and cotter pin.
Fastener name correction...
Hi-lok.
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 7:53:49 PM UTC-4, wrote:
> I'm not familiar with your exact installation but a hylock might work well?
> I would use one if possible over a pin and cotter pin.
It's a hinge pin for crying out loud. Clevis pin, washer, and cotter pin would be excellent. Most people won't have the right length pin which is why I suggested a bushing made from 1/4 diameter tubing , retained with a screw and lock nut.
Sigh
UH
Dave Nadler
April 30th 20, 09:49 PM
On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 9:20:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
> It's a hinge pin for crying out loud. Clevis pin, washer, and cotter pin
> would be excellent. Most people won't have the right length pin which is
> why I suggested a bushing made from 1/4 diameter tubing , retained with
> a screw and lock nut.
> Sigh
> UH
Hank, doesn't it have to be titanium??
On Thursday, April 30, 2020 at 4:49:29 PM UTC-4, Dave Nadler wrote:
> On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 9:20:40 PM UTC-4, wrote:
> > It's a hinge pin for crying out loud. Clevis pin, washer, and cotter pin
> > would be excellent. Most people won't have the right length pin which is
> > why I suggested a bushing made from 1/4 diameter tubing , retained with
> > a screw and lock nut.
> > Sigh
> > UH
>
> Hank, doesn't it have to be titanium??
For some applications the bushing would need to be of unobtanium.
UH
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