eccentric wing pin tool

[[email protected]]

Is anyone still making eccentric wing pin tools,
I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.
With my self built electric wing rigger I can do everything but that last bit.
I am making her complete one man system

Gary

[[email protected]]

Contact MM Fabrication LLC. Price is $90 including shipping. I may need the diameter of your pin if it isn't in my database.

[[email protected]]

I just noticed the .NZ email address. Shipping will be higher, but I am not sure how much. There are also customs duty and taxes to be paid by the recipient.

[swinkelj]

Op vrijdag 10 juli 2020 14:02:01 UTC+2 schreef :
> Is anyone still making eccentric wing pin tools,
> I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.
> With my self built electric wing rigger I can do everything but that last bit.
> I am making her complete one man system
>
> Gary

https://www.cobratrailer.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=106&osCsid=43g5rn8db5sbvj9uu8g8gm5fv6

[Roy B.]

I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.

Gary:
Carefully examine the surfaces of the spar butts and the sills that the spar butts slide on during assembly and see where the fiberglass is scuffed and worn from assembly. Put a good automotive wax on all of those surfaces and don't wipe it off. This works pretty well with the problem you describe but needs to be repeated every 6-8 assemblies. try it.
Roy

[Dave Nadler]

On Friday, July 10, 2020 at 7:43:04 PM UTC-4, Roy B. wrote:
>... where the fiberglass is scuffed and worn from assembly.
> Put a good automotive wax on all of those surfaces and don't wipe it off.

Or Teflon tape on both sill and butt in scuffed areas.

[Tim Taylor]

There are several things you can do to make the rigging easier.
1. Clean the pins on the ends of the spars and the mounting pins with 00 steel wool.
2. Clean the bearings with with a good cloth or Q-tips using a solvent until they are clean and move easily.
3. Lube all of these surfaces with a good grease.
4. As Dave suggested, install Teflon or UHMW slides where the spars slide into the fuselage.
5. Clean the spar pin holes in each spar similar to the bearings.
6. Clean and lube the spar pin carefully.

[Tim Taylor]

Forgot to add:
7. Inspect both spars, outside of the single and inside of the fork, for any signs of rubbing. If you find any points of contact ensure that they are smooth, sand with find sandpaper (1500 or 2000). Use a paste wax on these surfaces to allow them to slide smoothly if needed.

[2G]

On Friday, July 10, 2020 at 8:41:40 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
> Forgot to add:
> 7. Inspect both spars, outside of the single and inside of the fork, for any signs of rubbing. If you find any points of contact ensure that they are smooth, sand with find sandpaper (1500 or 2000). Use a paste wax on these surfaces to allow them to slide smoothly if needed.

Lubing and cleaning, while a good thing to do, is not going to make much of a difference. The BIG deal maker/breaker is alignment - get it right and it goes together easy; get it wrong and you can have those pins dripping in lube and nothing is happening except bad words.

Tips on proper alignment:
1. Look at the root fairing how the wing is mating to the fuselage. The gap, although small, must be the same from leading to trailing edge. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap if not sure.
2. The gap MUST be the same on top and bottom.
3. Once assembled mark the position of the spar and mark its position on the rear bulkhead.
4. Note the height of the fuselage and wingtips once assembled - use marks on the wing stands to guide you. This is handy in getting the wing dihedral correct.
5. Use your finger gauge. This is your actual finger to feel for misalignment of the the spar bushings. If you feel a ridge on the top and bottom, a verticle adjustment is necessary (don't worry about the direct, just make an adjustment and see if it improves or makes things worse and correct accordingly). A ridge on the sides means the wing must be moved for and aft. A big deal is which wing to adjust - you may be tweaking the wrong wing! So, if nothing improves try the other wing.
6. A remotely adjustable wing dolly is a big help. I use the IMI electric dolly, but a purely mechanical dolly still gets the job done, just somewhat slower.

This stuff WORKS, I have done hundreds of self-assemblies successfully.

Tom

[Tim Taylor]

As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.

[[email protected]]

On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 12:02:01 AM UTC+12, wrote:
> Is anyone still making eccentric wing pin tools,
> I have a Nimbus 2 that is a bitch to get the wings in the last 15ml/ half inch even with everything aligned correctly on the marks.
> With my self built electric wing rigger I can do everything but that last bit.
> I am making her complete one man system
>
> Gary

I thank everybody for the suggestions which I will work through as soon as
the rain stops and the ground firms up again.
My engineer says that my ship has very tight tolerances on all metal components
(no wear) which pleases him!
She has relatively low hours for her years thus little wear.
There are a couple of small areas the flap teflon seal tapes are starting to lift slightly,any suggestions (glues) to extend their life?

Gary

[[email protected]]

> There are a couple of small areas the flap teflon seal tapes are starting to lift slightly,any suggestions (glues) to extend their life?
>

For mylar seals, new transfer and safety tape after cleaning out the old with acetone. Will be interested to see what answer shows up for teflon tapes.

[2G]

On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 8:20:27 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
> As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.

Your sarcasm is noted. Well, I have FORTY YEARS rigging a variety of gliders. Note that I said "lubing is not a bad thing" - what part of that did you miss? Go back and reread it. And when the lubing doesn't do the trick, follow the tips I gave (that is meant for the rest of you, Tim is obviously to thick headed to learn).

Tom

[Dan Marotta]

There can be other causes for rigging difficulties, e.g., the first time
I helped Tom Bjork rig his ASH-30 mi, we were absolutely unable to get
the second main pin inserted.Â* After a long struggle, we removed the
second wing inboard panel and found one of those tiny R-clips which are
used to secure l'Hotelier fittings on the shelf. That tiny thickness was
enough to prevent alignment of the pin bushings.

On 7/13/2020 10:16 PM, 2G wrote:
> On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 8:20:27 PM UTC-7, Tim Taylor wrote:
>> As always Tom, we are glad you know more than the rest of us. I am sorry I only have 30 years of rigging 4 different SH gliders, including a Nimbus 2, and have found that often lack of cleaning has made a major difference in the ability to get rig them. Alignment is critical, but it it is not going the last few mm it is often cleaning. But again you know everything and we mere beginners must know very little compared to your vast knowledge.
> Your sarcasm is noted. Well, I have FORTY YEARS rigging a variety of gliders. Note that I said "lubing is not a bad thing" - what part of that did you miss? Go back and reread it. And when the lubing doesn't do the trick, follow the tips I gave (that is meant for the rest of you, Tim is obviously to thick headed to learn).
>
> Tom

--
Dan, 5J

[[email protected]]

A few of us were helping a fellow pilot assemble his brand-new HpH 304 several years ago, and clearances were so tight that it was a real struggle. One British observer said, "Oh just take it out and ground-loop it a few times. It will loosen right up!"

[BobW]

On 7/14/2020 7:45 AM, wrote:
> A few of us were helping a fellow pilot assemble his brand-new HpH 304
> several years ago, and clearances were so tight that it was a real
> struggle. One British observer said, "Oh just take it out and ground-loop
> it a few times. It will loosen right up!"

Chortle! And maybe I'm bored this morning, but this bit of across-the-pond
wisdom ties right in with (e.g.) the "bedding in" process recommended by
(some? many? all?) manufacturers of semi-automatic shotguns, who suggest the
first 20 rounds or so should be magnum loads...by way of exercising the
precision sliding bits under maximum-routine, high-stress, conditions in
expectation of achieving the longest/smoothest operating lifetime.

Hey. Motorcar engines, shotguns, sailplanes. What's not to like?!?

I'll be leaving now. My work here is done.

Bob W.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

[[email protected]]

the "bedding in" process recommended by
> (some? many? all?) manufacturers of semi-automatic shotguns, who suggest the
> first 20 rounds or so should be magnum loads...by way of exercising the
> precision sliding bits under maximum-routine, high-stress, conditions in
> expectation of achieving the longest/smoothest operating lifetime.

Using that theory, a new automobile should be "broken in properly" by winding it up to max RPM and driven as fast as possible directly off the showroom floor until it loosens up. Or breaks.

However, I regularly test electronic components this way. If they are going to fail, they are likeliest to do so early in their life. If they succeed in passing a large number of cycles, they will probably last quite a while. We had a batch of relays that failed after a short stress test, but the next batch (probably from another production run) is still going strong a year later.

[Jonathan St. Cloud]

On Tuesday, July 14, 2020 at 7:52:02 AM UTC-7, wrote:
> the "bedding in" process recommended by
> > (some? many? all?) manufacturers of semi-automatic shotguns, who suggest the
> > first 20 rounds or so should be magnum loads...by way of exercising the
> > precision sliding bits under maximum-routine, high-stress, conditions in
> > expectation of achieving the longest/smoothest operating lifetime.
>
> Using that theory, a new automobile should be "broken in properly" by winding it up to max RPM and driven as fast as possible directly off the showroom floor until it loosens up. Or breaks.
>
> However, I regularly test electronic components this way. If they are going to fail, they are likeliest to do so early in their life. If they succeed in passing a large number of cycles, they will probably last quite a while. We had a batch of relays that failed after a short stress test, but the next batch (probably from another production run) is still going strong a year later.

I take the "Captain Ron" approach. "If it going to break, it is going to break out there." :)

[Chris Behm]

The boat i run usually never breaks at the dock, it breaks at the beginning of a longer trip usually. Murphy was a seaman.
My quote to the crew, "Only new parts and old parts are suspect. The ones in the middle of their service life are fine."