Good degreaser?

[Michael Horowitz]

I have an oily surface I'd like to degrease.
Does anyone have a preferred degreaser, preferable from something like
Trac Auto? - Mike

[Michael Horowitz]

Sorry - sheet metal - Mike

"Jean-Paul Roy" > wrote:

>What kind of surface is it? aluminum, fabric, wood???????
>"Michael Horowitz" > a écrit dans le message news:
...
>>
>> I have an oily surface I'd like to degrease.
>> Does anyone have a preferred degreaser, preferable from something like
>> Trac Auto? - Mike
>

[Harry Burns]

Simple Green works wonders for me.

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article >,
(Harry Burns) wrote:

> Simple Green works wonders for me.

Not a good idea! Simple Green leaves corrosive residuals on aluminum.

For simple degreasing, I use mineral spirits (sold as "paint thinner" at
Home Depot, etc.) or lacquer thinner or MEK or acetone.

I also use "Carbon X," which is noncorrosive, on painted surfaces.

--
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[rip]

Just make sure you NEVER use an alkaline cleaner on internal engine
surfaces. The residue reacts with oil to make, in effect, soap. The
resulting frothy foam will destroy the engine in no time at all.
After all, soap is made from lye and fat (alkali plus oil).

Larry Smith wrote:

> "Harry Burns" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>Simple Green works wonders for me.
>
>
> Thanks, Harry.
>
> I like the proprietary degreasers like purple stuff and whatever else is
> sold as such. Dawn is good too, along with pressure and heat. We recently
> rebuilt an engine for our arcadian air museum here in WNC. I took the
> greasy glopped-up crankcase to the local Ford dealer where the garage
> manager generously let us stick it in their clam. It is a huge
> clamshell-like device like a dishwasher which cycles through several periods
> of washing and rinsing. The case came out sparkling. The manager said
> the secret was soap and water under pressure and 200 degrees F.
>
> And finally I share with you a secret. Best in-the-field degreaser I have
> found yet -- but you need to use a brush with it and mix it with hot
> water --is Citra-Solv, an extract of orange peel and other citrus products.
> Matter of fact the local tech school uses a similar citrus extract in its
> engine parts cleaners. Not quite as effective as Stoddard solvent or
> Varsol but passable, non-toxic, and water-soluble.
>
> I try to stay away from anything too alkaline when cleaning or degreasing
> aluminum, although I have seen people use that new Clorox with lye in it.
>
> Sometimes you need a chemical like methylene chloride, one of the
> ingredients in carburetor cleaner and paint remover, to get off varnish on
> engine parts. That's some nasty toxic stuff but it will do the job. Use
> special chemical-resistant gloves that reach up to your elbows, and don't
> get it on your skin or breath the fumes.
>
> Keep asking questions, Michael. Maybe you'll bring out a better crowd in
> RAH. I wonder how many of the people who post here are genuine
> homebuilders or restorers.
>
>
>
>

[Jerry Guy]

Back in the day, rebuilding the VW engine, I decided to use Moms 'Shout'
brand laundry pretreat to clean up the nasty case. Worked like a charm,
and I wasn't afraid when the gas furnace came on. Unlike when my brother
used gasoline for the same task. But, then again I'd never seen a fire
truck up close before. ;)

Jerry

rip wrote:
> Just make sure you NEVER use an alkaline cleaner on internal engine
> surfaces. The residue reacts with oil to make, in effect, soap. The
> resulting frothy foam will destroy the engine in no time at all.
> After all, soap is made from lye and fat (alkali plus oil).
>
> Larry Smith wrote:
>
>> "Harry Burns" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>
>>> Simple Green works wonders for me.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Harry.
>>
>> I like the proprietary degreasers like purple stuff and whatever else is
>> sold as such. Dawn is good too, along with pressure and heat. We
>> recently
>> rebuilt an engine for our arcadian air museum here in WNC. I took the
>> greasy glopped-up crankcase to the local Ford dealer where the garage
>> manager generously let us stick it in their clam. It is a huge
>> clamshell-like device like a dishwasher which cycles through several
>> periods
>> of washing and rinsing. The case came out sparkling. The manager said
>> the secret was soap and water under pressure and 200 degrees F.
>>
>> And finally I share with you a secret. Best in-the-field degreaser I
>> have
>> found yet -- but you need to use a brush with it and mix it with hot
>> water --is Citra-Solv, an extract of orange peel and other citrus
>> products.
>> Matter of fact the local tech school uses a similar citrus extract in its
>> engine parts cleaners. Not quite as effective as Stoddard solvent or
>> Varsol but passable, non-toxic, and water-soluble.
>>
>> I try to stay away from anything too alkaline when cleaning or degreasing
>> aluminum, although I have seen people use that new Clorox with lye in it.
>>
>> Sometimes you need a chemical like methylene chloride, one of the
>> ingredients in carburetor cleaner and paint remover, to get off
>> varnish on
>> engine parts. That's some nasty toxic stuff but it will do the
>> job. Use
>> special chemical-resistant gloves that reach up to your elbows, and don't
>> get it on your skin or breath the fumes.
>>
>> Keep asking questions, Michael. Maybe you'll bring out a better
>> crowd in
>> RAH. I wonder how many of the people who post here are genuine
>> homebuilders or restorers.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

[Ron Natalie]

"Corrie" > wrote in message om...
> Question - what is the difference between Stoddard and mineral
> spirits? They smell an awful lot alike. Come to think of it, so does
> charcoal-lighter fluid. I think I've seen Stoddard used to to
> jump-start a grill behind the hangar once or twice.

According to my docs, stoddard is described as being "similar" to mineral
spirits. My other source says charcoal starter is a micture of kerosene
and mineral spirits. Mineral spirits have more volatiles in it than straight
kerosene.

[Robert Bonomi]

In article >,
Ron Natalie > wrote:
>
>"Corrie" > wrote in message
om...
>> Question - what is the difference between Stoddard and mineral
>> spirits? They smell an awful lot alike. Come to think of it, so does
>> charcoal-lighter fluid. I think I've seen Stoddard used to to
>> jump-start a grill behind the hangar once or twice.
>
>According to my docs, stoddard is described as being "similar" to mineral
>spirits. My other source says charcoal starter is a micture of kerosene
>and mineral spirits. Mineral spirits have more volatiles in it than straight
>kerosene.
>
>
>

They're all 'light petroleum distallates'. the difference is in "how much
of what" is in the composite.

[Dan Thomas]

Laquer thinner rips off grease and oil faster than anything else. And
catches fire just about as fast as gasoline. And gets under your skin
and causes
b-b-b-brain duh-damage...

Dan

[Big John]

Jim

115-145 octane (purple color) used in WWII aircraft would burn you
also. I've had a fuel tank, after sitting in hot sun, gush out when
opened to check fuel level and I had to go in and shower and put on a
new flight suit to prevent burns and blisters on my chest and arms.

The 115-145 also worked in Zippo lighters. When I pre-flighted and
checked tanks for water I held Zippo in stream. When just filled
would flame up 3-4 inches even in strong wind. <G>

I've also had one filled fresh, leak at altitude (no cockpit
pressurization in P-51) and burn by ankle/leg.

Don't think they make that stuff any more even on special order?

Big John

On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 20:01:32 -0400, "Morgans"
<jisumorgan@charterdotjunkdotnet> wrote:

>
>"Dan Thomas" > wrote in message
m...
>> Laquer thinner rips off grease and oil faster than anything else. And
>> catches fire just about as fast as gasoline. And gets under your skin
>> and causes
>> b-b-b-brain duh-damage...
>>
>> Dan
>
>One time, I was visiting a small furniture factory, and the guy I went to
>talk to came out of the plant and into the break room. I didn't notice that
>he had a lacquer thinner soaked rag with him, and that he tossed it down on
>the picnic bench.
>
>You can see what is coming. I sat on it, unknowingly, and didn't realize it
>until it had soaked through a relatively large area, and had wetted my thigh
>down in the process.
>
>I danced around, and tried to get the jeans away from my leg, but the damage
>was done. I ended up having to go in the restroom and washing out the area
>with soap and water, and my leg also.
>
>Moral of the story: Don't get lacquer thinner on sensitive areas of your
>body. It really burns! :-(

[pragmatist]

Big John > wrote in message >...
> Jim
>
> 115-145 octane (purple color) used in WWII aircraft would burn you
> also. I've had a fuel tank, after sitting in hot sun, gush out when
> opened to check fuel level and I had to go in and shower and put on a
> new flight suit to prevent burns and blisters on my chest and arms.
>
> The 115-145 also worked in Zippo lighters. When I pre-flighted and
> checked tanks for water I held Zippo in stream. When just filled
> would flame up 3-4 inches even in strong wind. <G>
>
> I've also had one filled fresh, leak at altitude (no cockpit
> pressurization in P-51) and burn by ankle/leg.
>
> Don't think they make that stuff any more even on special order?
>
> Big John
>
> On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 20:01:32 -0400, "Morgans"
> <jisumorgan@charterdotjunkdotnet> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Dan Thomas" > wrote in message
> m...
> >> Laquer thinner rips off grease and oil faster than anything else. And
> >> catches fire just about as fast as gasoline. And gets under your skin
> >> and causes
> >> b-b-b-brain duh-damage...
> >>
> >> Dan
> >
> >One time, I was visiting a small furniture factory, and the guy I went to
> >talk to came out of the plant and into the break room. I didn't notice that
> >he had a lacquer thinner soaked rag with him, and that he tossed it down on
> >the picnic bench.
> >
> >You can see what is coming. I sat on it, unknowingly, and didn't realize it
> >until it had soaked through a relatively large area, and had wetted my thigh
> >down in the process.
> >
> >I danced around, and tried to get the jeans away from my leg, but the damage
> >was done. I ended up having to go in the restroom and washing out the area
> >with soap and water, and my leg also.
> >
> >Moral of the story: Don't get lacquer thinner on sensitive areas of your
> >body. It really burns! :-(

I once filled a motorcycle tank right up to the top, with cool gas on
a hot day.
When I hit the highway that cool gas expanded and came up to the top
of the tank and blew back. It felt cool at first.................
I now check the vent line for wasp larvae every so often.

Pragmatist.

[Barnyard BOb --]

Morgans" wrote:

>
>Moral of the story: Don't get lacquer thinner on sensitive areas of your
>body. It really burns! :-(
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Gee....
Who would have thunk you were a 'sensitive guy', too.


Barnyard BOb --

[Big John]

Richard

It's probaby all Nitro with a touch of lead to stop detonation <G>

Maybe some of our 'oil' company types can explain how the 115-145 was
made in WWII? We called it 115-145 octane not some other name.

The Hurricane is gone and back to normal summer Wx here in Houston
(Thunderstorms and rain showers).

Big John


On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 04:47:17 GMT, Richard Riley
> wrote:

>On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:42:27 -0500, Big John >
>wrote:
>
>:Jim
>:
>:115-145 octane (purple color) used in WWII aircraft would burn you
>:also. I've had a fuel tank, after sitting in hot sun, gush out when
>:opened to check fuel level and I had to go in and shower and put on a
>:new flight suit to prevent burns and blisters on my chest and arms.
>:
>:The 115-145 also worked in Zippo lighters. When I pre-flighted and
>:checked tanks for water I held Zippo in stream. When just filled
>:would flame up 3-4 inches even in strong wind. <G>
>:
>:I've also had one filled fresh, leak at altitude (no cockpit
>:pressurization in P-51) and burn by ankle/leg.
>:
>:Don't think they make that stuff any more even on special order?
>
>They must have it at Reno, at least. And there's a small refinery
>here in So Cal that sells racing fuel, I've heard of them doing up to
>150 octane (I don't know how that's chemically possible, but that's
>what they say)

[Ron Natalie]

"Big John" > wrote in message ...
> Richard
>
> It's probaby all Nitro with a touch of lead to stop detonation <G>
>
> Maybe some of our 'oil' company types can explain how the 115-145 was
> made in WWII? We called it 115-145 octane not some other name.
>
From the Wikipedia:

One interesting historical issue involving octane rating took place during WWII. Germany received the vast majority of
their oil from Romania, and set up huge distilling plants in Germany to produce petrol from it. In the US the oil was not
"as good" and the oil industry instead had to invest heavily in various expensive boosting systems. This turned out to
be a huge blessing in disguise. US industry was soon delivering fuels of ever-increasing octane ratings by adding more
of the boosting agents, with cost no longer a factor during wartime. By war's end their aviation fuel was commonly 130
to 150 octane, which could easily be put to use in existing engines to deliver much more power by increasing the
compression delivered by the superchargers. The Germans, relying entirely on "good" petrol, had no such industry,
and instead had to rely on ever-larger engines to deliver more power. The result is that British and US engines
consistently outperformed German ones during the war, playing no small part in the defeat of the Luftwaffe.

[Robert Bonomi]

In article >,
Richard Riley > wrote:
>On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:42:27 -0500, Big John >
>wrote:
>
>:Jim
>:
>:115-145 octane (purple color) used in WWII aircraft would burn you
>:also. I've had a fuel tank, after sitting in hot sun, gush out when
>:opened to check fuel level and I had to go in and shower and put on a
>:new flight suit to prevent burns and blisters on my chest and arms.
>:
>:The 115-145 also worked in Zippo lighters. When I pre-flighted and
>:checked tanks for water I held Zippo in stream. When just filled
>:would flame up 3-4 inches even in strong wind. <G>
>:
>:I've also had one filled fresh, leak at altitude (no cockpit
>:pressurization in P-51) and burn by ankle/leg.
>:
>:Don't think they make that stuff any more even on special order?
>
>They must have it at Reno, at least. And there's a small refinery
>here in So Cal that sells racing fuel, I've heard of them doing up to
>150 octane (I don't know how that's chemically possible, but that's
>what they say)

An octane "rating" of over 100 simply means that it has anti-knock
characteristics that are *better* than 100% octane. You graph the
knock resistance vs the % octane, and 'extrapolate the curve' right
of the 100% value. No big deal.

[Corky Scott]

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 08:43:11 -0600, "Bill Daniels"
> wrote:

>In the 1950's I saw a translated German report on the chemical analysis of
>fuel from allied aircraft shot down over Germany. It referred to "high
>levels of lead contamination from poorly make pipe joints in American
>refineries". It appeared, at least from this report, that the Germans
>completely failed to understand the implications of their lab tests and the
>benefits of tetraethyl lead as an octane booster.
>
>Bill Daniels

That just cracks me up Bill. For all their much vaunted and highly
admired military technology, the Germans continually shot themselves
in the foot during WWII. This is just one example. During the war,
the the British took incredible pains to prevent their airborn radar
technology from falling into the hands of the Germans so as to prevent
them from reverse engineering the same set and turning it against
them, or devising a homing device or warning device. Yet when the
centimetric radar actually DID end up in German hands when an
unfortunate airplane that had it went down, they completely
missunderstood how it worked and dismissed it.

From mid war on, German U-boats were harassed and sunk at increasingly
higher numbers by aircraft and the Germans appeared clueless as to why
this was happening.

It is said that the Germans never made small mistakes, they only made
big ones.

Corky Scott