"Must Have" Tools for Christmas

[Eric Miller]

"Must Have" Tools for Christmas

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal
bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted
airplane part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and
hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say,
"Ouch...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they
can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the
wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly
under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off
a hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog poop off your boot.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything
you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has
an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which
is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main
purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm
howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle
of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,
as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power
plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by
hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts
last over-tightened 58 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off
their heads.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket
you needed to remove in order to replace a 50-cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used
as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from
the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents
such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.

[Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired]

Eric Miller wrote:
> "Must Have" Tools for Christmas
>
> DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal
> bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
> your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted
> airplane part you were drying.
>
> WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
> workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and
> hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say,
> "Ouch...."
>
> ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
> until you die of old age.
>
> PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
>
> HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
> principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
> and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
> future becomes.
>
> VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they
> can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
>
> OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
> objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the
> wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.
>
> WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
> motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
> socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
>
> HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
> you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly
> under the bumper.
>
> EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off
> a hydraulic jack handle.
>
> TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
>
> PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
> floor jack.
>
> SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
> spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog poop off your boot.
>
> E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
> drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.
>
> TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything
> you forgot to disconnect.
>
> CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has
> an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.
>
> AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
>
> TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
> drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which
> is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main
> purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm
> howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle
> of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
>
> PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
> paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,
> as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
>
> AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power
> plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by
> hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts
> last over-tightened 58 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off
> their heads.
>
> PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket
> you needed to remove in order to replace a 50-cent part.
>
> HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.
>
> HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used
> as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from
> the object we are trying to hit.
>
> MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
> cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents
> such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
> magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.
>
>

For the more advanced tool kit there's the

ENGLISH WHEEL: Used to squirt blood out from under a fingernail. Also
used for determining when metal should have been annealed.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[Flyingmonk]

A GE Minigun. :^) Well, it IS a tool...

[Rich S.]

"Flyingmonk" > wrote in message
oups.com...

>A GE Minigun. :^) Well, it IS a tool...

How about a calendar? http://tinyurl.com/dh7y7

Or the tee shirt? http://tinyurl.com/c88tk

Rich S.

[Ron Wanttaja]

On Fri, 16 Dec 2005 06:54:46 -0800, "Rich S." >
wrote:

>"Flyingmonk" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
>>A GE Minigun. :^) Well, it IS a tool...
>
>How about a calendar? http://tinyurl.com/dh7y7

Calendars? How 'bout:

http://www.bowersflybaby.com/calendar.html

Ron Wanttaja

[John Ousterhout]

Ron Wanttaja wrote:
>
> Calendars? How 'bout:
>
> http://www.bowersflybaby.com/calendar.html
>
> Ron Wanttaja

Nicely done Ron.

But you failed to include even ONE picture of the FlyBaby Biplane?

- John (two wings good, four wings better!) Ousterhout -

[Stuart & Kathryn Fields]

Add a sheet metal break that helps you find where the cracks are in the bend
of the last piece of aluminum available. They are also called
"Grain Finders".

--
Stu Fields


"Eric Miller" > wrote in message
...
> "Must Have" Tools for Christmas
>
> DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal
> bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
> your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted
> airplane part you were drying.
>
> WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the
> workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and
> hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say,
> "Ouch...."
>
> ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
> until you die of old age.
>
> PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
>
> HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
> principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion,
> and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
> future becomes.
>
> VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available,
they
> can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your
hand.
>
> OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
> objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
the
> wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.
>
> WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
> motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
> socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
>
> HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
> you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle
firmly
> under the bumper.
>
> EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward
off
> a hydraulic jack handle.
>
> TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
>
> PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
> floor jack.
>
> SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
> spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog poop off your boot.
>
> E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
> drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.
>
> TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on
everything
> you forgot to disconnect.
>
> CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has
> an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.
>
> AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
>
> TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
> drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin,"
which
> is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's
main
> purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105-mm
> howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle
> of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
>
> PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
> paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used,
> as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
>
> AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power
> plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by
> hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts
> last over-tightened 58 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off
> their heads.
>
> PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket
> you needed to remove in order to replace a 50-cent part.
>
> HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.
>
> HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used
> as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from
> the object we are trying to hit.
>
> MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard
> cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents
> such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
> magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.
>
>

[Darrel Toepfer]

Flyingmonk wrote:
> A GE Minigun. :^) Well, it IS a tool...

http://media.putfile.com/M60E41

[Flyingmonk]

>http://media.putfile.com/M60E41

Awesome!

[[email protected]]

Kind of gets you a woody!

Flyingmonk wrote:
>>http://media.putfile.com/M60E41
>
>
> Awesome!
>

[Eric Miller]

>A GE Minigun. :^) Well, it IS a tool...
>

It dimples at the same time as it drills... 8 holes per sec!
If only it shot clecoes and deburred at the same time.
Finding correct rivets is tough though... and hand squeezing them is out of
the question :-)

[Jim Carriere]

Eric Miller wrote:
>> A GE Minigun. :^) Well, it IS a tool...
>>
>
> It dimples at the same time as it drills... 8 holes per sec!

And if you make a mistake while fabricating a part, I can't think of a
better way of venting frustration.

> If only it shot clecoes and deburred at the same time.
> Finding correct rivets is tough though... and hand squeezing them is out of
> the question :-)

Ah, but the proverbial glass is actually half-full. You could yet
corner a niche market--right now nobody makes 7.62mm rivets or clecoes!

[Flyingmonk]

>Ah, but the proverbial glass is actually half-full. You could yet
>corner a niche market--right now nobody makes 7.62mm rivets or >clecoes!

I always respect a thinking man :^)

[Morgans]

"Eric Miller" > wrote

> It dimples at the same time as it drills... 8 holes per sec!
> If only it shot clecoes and deburred at the same time.
> Finding correct rivets is tough though... and hand squeezing them is out
of
> the question :-)

You are missing the point of operating it correctly.

The trick is to get the rivet in the hole before the second shot, and
getting the bucking bar in place. The second shot will start driving the
rivet! <g>
--
Jim in NC

[Roger]

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 23:54:28 -0500, "Eric Miller" >
wrote:
What? No Floor mill and Lathe? Those are the two most essential
tools you can have. A Bridgeport with about a 4' bed and about a 10"
Clausing (sp?) Of course I would need the acessories.

That's all I ask. Just two tools, unlike some of the more selfish who
have a big long lists. <:-))

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com.

[Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired]

Roger wrote:
> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 23:54:28 -0500, "Eric Miller" >
> wrote:
> What? No Floor mill and Lathe? Those are the two most essential
> tools you can have. A Bridgeport with about a 4' bed and about a 10"
> Clausing (sp?) Of course I would need the acessories.
>
> That's all I ask. Just two tools, unlike some of the more selfish who
> have a big long lists. <:-))
>
> Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
> (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
> www.rogerhalstead.com.


Gotta source for 660V 3 phase?

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[Scott]

Hey, that's how I can get around bucking 14,000 rivets! I'll turn out
an RV on a lathe! Why didn't I think of that before?? ;) I, too, lust
for a lathe...Happy Holidays to all!

Scott


Roger wrote:
> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 23:54:28 -0500, "Eric Miller" >
> wrote:
> What? No Floor mill and Lathe? Those are the two most essential
> tools you can have. A Bridgeport with about a 4' bed and about a 10"
> Clausing (sp?) Of course I would need the acessories.
>
> That's all I ask. Just two tools, unlike some of the more selfish who
> have a big long lists. <:-))
>
> Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
> (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
> www.rogerhalstead.com.

[Roger]

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 01:45:44 -0600, "Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired"
> wrote:

>Roger wrote:
>> On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 23:54:28 -0500, "Eric Miller" >
>> wrote:
>> What? No Floor mill and Lathe? Those are the two most essential
>> tools you can have. A Bridgeport with about a 4' bed and about a 10"
>> Clausing (sp?) Of course I would need the acessories.
>>
>> That's all I ask. Just two tools, unlike some of the more selfish who
>> have a big long lists. <:-))
>>
>> Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
>> (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
>> www.rogerhalstead.com.
>
>
> Gotta source for 660V 3 phase?

660? Where on earth are you seeing 660 three phase motors? We didn't
use motors that big to run 15 X 15 compressors. Those were three
phase 440 "Y" I think. The drive wheels were something like 7 or 8
feet in diameter while the ones on the motors were less than a foot
across. (8" I think) I think they used about a dozen V-belts.

I don't think I could afford the 660 VAC motor to build a phase
converter<:-))

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
>
>Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[LCT Paintball]

>
> Gotta source for 660V 3 phase?
>
> Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

Don't need it.
Mine are run from 240 3 phase.
It wouldn't be hard to swap out the motor for single phase either.

[Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired]

LCT Paintball wrote:
>> Gotta source for 660V 3 phase?
>>
>>Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired
>
>
> Don't need it.
> Mine are run from 240 3 phase.
> It wouldn't be hard to swap out the motor for single phase either.
>
>
I was poking fun, there are machines that require 660 VAC 3 phase,
but unless you are turning barrels for gunboats you aren't likely to
need one.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[Morgans]

"Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired" > wrote

> I was poking fun, there are machines that require 660 VAC 3 phase,
> but unless you are turning barrels for gunboats you aren't likely to
> need one.

There would be an advantage to using 660 3 phase, for machines of the size
we would use. Wires would be easy to run. You could run a piece of 22
gauge wire, and get all of the power you needed! <g>
--
Jim in NC

[LCT Paintball]

>>
> I was poking fun, there are machines that require 660 VAC 3 phase, but
> unless you are turning barrels for gunboats you aren't likely to need one.
>
> Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

Wow. I've seen lots of machines that run on 440, but never 660.


Dave Lyon
Bragging about his 4000 sq foot machine shop. :)

[Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired]

LCT Paintball wrote:
>> I was poking fun, there are machines that require 660 VAC 3 phase, but
>>unless you are turning barrels for gunboats you aren't likely to need one.
>>
>>Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired
>
>
> Wow. I've seen lots of machines that run on 440, but never 660.
>
>
> Dave Lyon
> Bragging about his 4000 sq foot machine shop. :)
>
>

Check out your local large ship building facilities. I visited the
Newport News yard when I was stationed near there in the 1970s. It made
me wonder about the shops they subcontracted to. Um, what is the
combination to the lock on your machine shop door?

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[LCT Paintball]

> Check out your local large ship building facilities. I visited the


Not too many of those here in Missouri.... :)


.. Um, what is the
> combination to the lock on your machine shop door?
>
> Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired


You don't need the combination. Come on by I'll let you in.

[Morgans]

"Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired" > wrote

> Um, what is the
> combination to the lock on your machine shop door?

You don't need a combination; only one of those gunbarrels, and umm, I would
say one projectile should do it! <g>
--
Jim in NC

[LCT Paintball]

>
> You don't need a combination; only one of those gunbarrels, and umm, I
> would
> say one projectile should do it! <g>
> --
> Jim in NC

I'm doubting my equipment would be nearly as much fun after the projectile
hit.


Dave

Who once had the privilege of touring the USS Wisconsin before it was
decommissioned.

[Morgans]

"LCT Paintball" > wrote in message
news:Chlqf.667095$xm3.321689@attbi_s21...
>
> >
> > You don't need a combination; only one of those gunbarrels, and umm, I
> > would
> > say one projectile should do it! <g>
> > --
> > Jim in NC
>
> I'm doubting my equipment would be nearly as much fun after the projectile
> hit.

Are you kidding? A Bridgeport would not even be scratched. I'm sure it
would take a several megaton explosion to even scorch the paint! <vbg>

Same goes with all of the other stuff you probably have in there.

One of these days, I'm going to get cozy with someone who really knows their
way around a machine shop. I'm a quick study for all things mechanical, and
would really like (and appreciate) the chance to learn how to do some stuff.

I've hacked around some of our equipment at our HS, but we don't teach
machining anymore, and there is not anyone who really knows how to use the
equipment. I am the closest thing to an authority, and that is sad. I
taught myself a few things, almost trial by error.

By the way, I'm officially envious. ;-))
--
Jim in NC

[Smitty Two]

someone wrote:


>
> One of these days, I'm going to get cozy with someone who really knows their
> way around a machine shop.

Perhaps by being polite, even when disagreeing, you might one day obtain
such an invitation.

Jon (whose shop just acquired a new HAAS machining center to replace one
of the Bridgeport CNC mills) in California

[Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired]

Smitty Two wrote:
> someone wrote:
>
>
>
>>One of these days, I'm going to get cozy with someone who really knows their
>>way around a machine shop.
>
>
> Perhaps by being polite, even when disagreeing, you might one day obtain
> such an invitation.
>
> Jon (whose shop just acquired a new HAAS machining center to replace one
> of the Bridgeport CNC mills) in California

So when are ya gonna get the good stuff like Central Machinery?
Y'know, I could get hurt asking questions like that :)

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[Smitty Two]

In article <UuAqf.67976$sg5.36718@dukeread12>,
"Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired" > wrote:


>
> So when are ya gonna get the good stuff like Central Machinery?
> Y'know, I could get hurt asking questions like that :)
>
> Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

I really don't know anything about the hobby machines, but I've always
been curious. In many cases I'm sure I could live with some reduction of
power and precision, - at least for making airplane parts - but I'd
suffer without the automation.

When digital readouts came along, I thought we were in tall cotton. Then
we got the Bridgeport EZ traks (cnc) and we felt like we'd emerged from
the dark ages. I don't think I could dial off a bolt circle anymore, let
alone use a rotary table to make an arc. And I can't remember the last
time we rotated a rotating vise.

I don't think the machining center is going to have an advantage over
the EZ trak for making one or two parts, but it'll sure speed up
production work.

Anyway for now, I don't have room (or money) at home for a machine, so
I'll have to continue to make the 3 1/2 mile drive down to the shop when
something that can't wait til Monday needs more than a file or a hand
drill.

[Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired]

Smitty Two wrote:
> In article <UuAqf.67976$sg5.36718@dukeread12>,
> "Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired" > wrote:
>
>
>
>> So when are ya gonna get the good stuff like Central Machinery?
>>Y'know, I could get hurt asking questions like that :)
>>
>>Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired
>
>
> I really don't know anything about the hobby machines, but I've always
> been curious. In many cases I'm sure I could live with some reduction of
> power and precision, - at least for making airplane parts - but I'd
> suffer without the automation.
>
> When digital readouts came along, I thought we were in tall cotton. Then
> we got the Bridgeport EZ traks (cnc) and we felt like we'd emerged from
> the dark ages. I don't think I could dial off a bolt circle anymore, let
> alone use a rotary table to make an arc. And I can't remember the last
> time we rotated a rotating vise.
>
> I don't think the machining center is going to have an advantage over
> the EZ trak for making one or two parts, but it'll sure speed up
> production work.
>
> Anyway for now, I don't have room (or money) at home for a machine, so
> I'll have to continue to make the 3 1/2 mile drive down to the shop when
> something that can't wait til Monday needs more than a file or a hand
> drill.


Hobby sized machines are not too shabby for one offs. If nothing
else it's good for keeping one's "feel." There's nothing they can do
that a full sized lathe can't do as well if not better. I sure wouldn't
use a home lathe to get four place precision. As for space I have mine
on a roll away cart.

I have tried CNC, it's really nice for production or complex parts. I
never do the former and rarely do the latter so I am doing alright.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

[wright1902glider]

JIG: A home-built device designed to misalign parts as they are
fabricated.

Table saw: efficient powered tool used to convert expensive spruce into
worthless dust.

Sewing machine: another power tool used to assemble an monstorously
large section of fabric into an impossibly large section of fabric.

Drill bit: a convenient way to fill holes in metal parts, or hardwood
such as white ash landing skids. Frequently used with power drills, the
pointed end is first inserted into the hole, and then the drill is used
to snap off the appropriate length of bit.

Transport trailer: a device for rotating your aircraft, airshow
displays, or both onto their side for more difficult access. Best used
on US 36 between Joe's, Colorado and Last Chance, Colorado in
crosswinds exceeding 50 kts.

Aircraft rib steamer: a good way to use up 161 lbs. of propane gas

Wright 1902 Glider: ancient and obscure device used to separate men
from US Dollars, roommates, neighbors, romantic partners and the
generally sane. other uses include vaccum-cleaner test module, storage
obsticle, transport trailer ballast, that thing hanging on my wall
above my bed, and my sole source of income for the last 3 months of
2003.

Merry Christmas,
Harry

[Morgans]

"wright1902glider" > wrote

> Transport trailer: a device for rotating your aircraft, airshow
> displays, or both onto their side for more difficult access. Best used
> on US 36 between Joe's, Colorado and Last Chance, Colorado in
> crosswinds exceeding 50 kts.

You didn't!!! Oh, you did?

That must have been a real (bad) experience. Mind sharing the story?
--
Jim in NC

[Roger]

On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 12:02:34 -0800, Smitty Two
> wrote:

>In article <UuAqf.67976$sg5.36718@dukeread12>,
> "Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired" > wrote:
>
>
>>
>> So when are ya gonna get the good stuff like Central Machinery?
>> Y'know, I could get hurt asking questions like that :)
>>
>> Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired
>
>I really don't know anything about the hobby machines, but I've always
>been curious. In many cases I'm sure I could live with some reduction of
>power and precision, - at least for making airplane parts - but I'd
>suffer without the automation.

When I studied that stuff we didn't have automation. No CNC, it was
set it up and one cut at a time, unless you had a turret and then you
*might* do up to 4 or 5. <:-))

From what I've seen, for a "one off part, or even a couple, it was far
faster than setting up a CNC machine.

>
>When digital readouts came along, I thought we were in tall cotton. Then
>we got the Bridgeport EZ traks (cnc) and we felt like we'd emerged from
>the dark ages. I don't think I could dial off a bolt circle anymore, let
>alone use a rotary table to make an arc. And I can't remember the last
>time we rotated a rotating vise.

The rotation isn't all that difficult, but cutting an arc with a
continuously varying radius is something else

>
>I don't think the machining center is going to have an advantage over
>the EZ trak for making one or two parts, but it'll sure speed up
>production work.

That's where they really shine.

>
>Anyway for now, I don't have room (or money) at home for a machine, so
>I'll have to continue to make the 3 1/2 mile drive down to the shop when
>something that can't wait til Monday needs more than a file or a hand
>drill.

At least you have access to a shop. When I worked as a technician oh
so many years ago before going back to college (after 26 years) I
could us all the tools in the shop and I could get scrap metal from
the junk pile.

After going back to school I didn't have access to the shop, but I
also worked nearly 7 years with only 3 days off. I still managed to
fly abut 130 years, but the other stuff was put off until retirement.

I had the order made out to get both a precision lathe with a 50 some
inch bed and a good floor mill. I should have sent it right away as
the stock market tanked about two days before I was going to send it.
I was also set to purchase a new K1A5, 300 HP IO-540 Lycoming an one
of the custom shops was going to redo it for me. Unfortunately....
I now have a core in good shape to rebuild though <:-))

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

[Flyingmonk]

Roger Halstead wrote:
>I should have sent it right away as the stock market tanked about two days before

Shsh... I know what you mean Roger, I lost many of my dreams, along
with my savings when all that mess took place.

The Monk

[Smitty Two]

In article >,
Roger > wrote:


>
> When I studied that stuff we didn't have automation. No CNC, it was
> set it up and one cut at a time, unless you had a turret and then you
> *might* do up to 4 or 5. <:-))
>
> From what I've seen, for a "one off part, or even a couple, it was far
> faster than setting up a CNC machine.
>

Did you have to whittle your own cutting tools, out of stone?

For milling, I've found the the Bridgeport EZ traks to be excellent for
one or two parts. There's really no "set-up" involved. In a few seconds
you can program the machine to make a hole pattern (It will do the math
for you,) mill a circle or a rectangle, or whatever.

[wright1902glider]

Jim,

Yep, it went over on its left side. I was only about a mile outside of
Byers, CO and the safety of a parking lot big enough to turn the beast
into the wind (it'll take over 120mph into he wind), but I had to turn
broadside to the wind to get there. There was no other shelter, the
squall was moving in... not too many options. Fortunately damage was
limited to the upper left corner sheet metal, the left hub dust cap,
the bolt-on fender, and the trailer coupler. Less than 3 minutes after
she went over, t was surrounded by no less than 3 cowboys, 2 farmers, a
trucker, and a cop. Where all of these folks came from, I'll never
know. Highway 36 just isn't that busy. But they were there, thank God.
Four of us lifted the trailer back onto its wheels (it weighs less than
600lbs. i'm guessing). One of the cowboys produced a 3lb. sledge from
his dually, gave the coupler a few good whacks, and restored my rig to
limp-into-town condition. I found a replacement coupler at a 24-hr
walmart in Denver, and was back on the road 4 hours later. Fortunately,
Byers is only about an hour from where I'm living now. When i finally
got the trailer door open, I was amazed to find everything still in its
place! No damage to the glider or show equipment at all!

The trailer is sealed up and tied down for the winter. It'll need
repairs and a good weight-balance check before its roadworthy again. I
was surprised to find its about 500 lbs. lighter than I had estimated.

[Roger]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 09:09:05 -0800, Smitty Two
> wrote:

>In article >,
> Roger > wrote:
>
>
>>
>> When I studied that stuff we didn't have automation. No CNC, it was
>> set it up and one cut at a time, unless you had a turret and then you
>> *might* do up to 4 or 5. <:-))
>>
>> From what I've seen, for a "one off part, or even a couple, it was far
>> faster than setting up a CNC machine.
>>
>
>Did you have to whittle your own cutting tools, out of stone?

It hasn't been all that long ago, BUT one test was to give you a file
and a chunk of metal. You were expected to make a sold cube using
nothing what you had been given. I've forgotten the tollerances, but
it was only a few thousandths.

In one class we ended up making our own files.
I was going to say we didn't use stone, but we did for sharpening.

>
>For milling, I've found the the Bridgeport EZ traks to be excellent for
>one or two parts. There's really no "set-up" involved. In a few seconds
>you can program the machine to make a hole pattern (It will do the math
>for you,) mill a circle or a rectangle, or whatever.

I'm looking for one of those as there were a couple of machine shops
that went out of business within 30 miles of here.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

[Montblack]

("Morgans" wrote)
> You know, if it was me having to haul such a light trailer, with such a
> high
> wind profile, I would consider putting a layer of 4" concrete block on the
> floor, with a layer of plywood on top to make a new floor. That would do
> wonders to lower the C of G, and make it much more pleasant to pull in all
> wind conditions, and corner better. I'll bet a little load on the springs
> would make it bounce and shake the load a lot less, also.


I had one of those as a kid in the early 70's. It had a home out in the
garage.

....we called it a rock tumbler.

http://www.rocktumblinghobby.com/


Montblack :-)

[Morgans]

"wright1902glider" > wrote

> Yep, it went over on its left side. I was only about a mile outside of
> Byers, CO and the safety of a parking lot big enough to turn the beast
> into the wind (it'll take over 120mph into he wind), but I had to turn
> broadside to the wind to get there.

> Four of us lifted the trailer back onto its wheels (it weighs less than
> 600lbs. i'm guessing).

You know, if it was me having to haul such a light trailer, with such a high
wind profile, I would consider putting a layer of 4" concrete block on the
floor, with a layer of plywood on top to make a new floor. That would do
wonders to lower the C of G, and make it much more pleasant to pull in all
wind conditions, and corner better. I'll bet a little load on the springs
would make it bounce and shake the load a lot less, also.

Glad everything turned out fairly well, anyway.
--
Jim in NC

[Morgans]

"Montblack" > wrote

> I had one of those as a kid in the early 70's. It had a home out in the
> garage.
>
> ...we called it a rock tumbler.

Might be a good idea to hold the plywood down, here and there! <g>

I too, had a rock tumbler. Takes way too long. I seem to remember putting
a bigger motor on it, or changing the drive ratio, to speed it up a "little"
bit. I had to put the right kind of rocks in it, or they could start a
fire! <;-))
--
Jim in NC