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View Full Version : Chewed-up coupling connector - How-to?


Michael Horowitz
July 13th 03, 01:02 PM
Folks - The oil pressure sensor/tube is secured to the engine block of
my A-65 by a brass connector which is getting pretty chewed up; Over
the years previous owners apparently using something other than the
correct tool to tighten it down.

I'm told (please correct me if my understanding is incorrect) one has
to replace the sensor and gauge in order to replace that connector.

Any suggestions on how to improve the lifespan of that brass
connector? - Mike

BD5ER
July 13th 03, 05:36 PM
>Any suggestions on how to improve the lifespan of that brass
>connector? - Mike

I assume your talking about that hollow brass fitting that holds the tube in
place. Unfortunatly other than replacing the unit and making sure a flare nut
wrench is used in the future I know of no, practical, way to make it pretty
again.

In cases like this I have found that a Vise-Grip with curved jaws and good
sharp teerh will get the things off with little additional damage.

Sometimes if the hex is large enough you can fill it down to the next smaller
size - either metric or Whitworth. I'm probably the only person in my state
with a set of Whitworth flare nut wrenc.. err... spanners so that may not be a
good option.

In either case the next guy that works on it will probably use a pair of
Vise-Grips after he rounds of the smaller size hex with the "correct" size
flare nut wrench.

Michael Horowitz
July 13th 03, 06:32 PM
Hmmmm thanks for mentioning metric. I might not have to take the
flats down to the next lower 1/16; it's possible there is a metic size
just below 11/16 - Mike



(BD5ER) wrote:

>>Any suggestions on how to improve the lifespan of that brass
>>connector? - Mike
>
>I assume your talking about that hollow brass fitting that holds the tube in
>place. Unfortunatly other than replacing the unit and making sure a flare nut
>wrench is used in the future I know of no, practical, way to make it pretty
>again.
>
>In cases like this I have found that a Vise-Grip with curved jaws and good
>sharp teerh will get the things off with little additional damage.
>
>Sometimes if the hex is large enough you can fill it down to the next smaller
>size - either metric or Whitworth. I'm probably the only person in my state
>with a set of Whitworth flare nut wrenc.. err... spanners so that may not be a
>good option.
>
>In either case the next guy that works on it will probably use a pair of
>Vise-Grips after he rounds of the smaller size hex with the "correct" size
>flare nut wrench.

Cy Galley
July 13th 03, 08:42 PM
If the proper sized flare wrench still fits, use it and forget it.

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> Hmmmm thanks for mentioning metric. I might not have to take the
> flats down to the next lower 1/16; it's possible there is a metic size
> just below 11/16 - Mike
>
>
>
> (BD5ER) wrote:
>
> >>Any suggestions on how to improve the lifespan of that brass
> >>connector? - Mike
> >
> >I assume your talking about that hollow brass fitting that holds the tube
in
> >place. Unfortunatly other than replacing the unit and making sure a
flare nut
> >wrench is used in the future I know of no, practical, way to make it
pretty
> >again.
> >
> >In cases like this I have found that a Vise-Grip with curved jaws and
good
> >sharp teerh will get the things off with little additional damage.
> >
> >Sometimes if the hex is large enough you can fill it down to the next
smaller
> >size - either metric or Whitworth. I'm probably the only person in my
state
> >with a set of Whitworth flare nut wrenc.. err... spanners so that may not
be a
> >good option.
> >
> >In either case the next guy that works on it will probably use a pair of
> >Vise-Grips after he rounds of the smaller size hex with the "correct"
size
> >flare nut wrench.
>

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