Pad Heaters? Any comments recommendations, etc.?

[ben norton]

The local mechanic is suggesting we add a pad heater (glues
to the bottom of the oil reservoir on our A-65). He says if
we keep it plugged in all winter it will not only keep the
engine ready to start in cold weather, it will minimize temp
changes and inflow/outflow moist air exchange in the
cylinders, which will limit corrosion.

I'd appreciate comments or suggestions from those with
experience. The Aircraft Spruce website says no STC is
required for these. Why not?

Last, Are there any other inexpensive, safe solutions we
should consider that would hold the engine and/or oil at a
constant temp? I would think there might be some way to
cover the engine compartment with old blankets and set a 75
degree thermstatically controlled heater or light bulb in
there.

Thanks.

[Otis Winslow]

I've had Tanis systems on a couple planes. And I always left them
plugged in all the time unless I wasn't going to fly for a while.
But my take has always been that using the sump pad alone and
leaving it on all the time wouldn't be the best plan. The upper
part of the engine would be at a colder temp and you'd get
condensation. I've used the pad and the individual cylinder
heaters together though.




ben norton wrote:
> The local mechanic is suggesting we add a pad heater (glues
> to the bottom of the oil reservoir on our A-65). He says if
> we keep it plugged in all winter it will not only keep the
> engine ready to start in cold weather, it will minimize temp
> changes and inflow/outflow moist air exchange in the
> cylinders, which will limit corrosion.
>
> I'd appreciate comments or suggestions from those with
> experience. The Aircraft Spruce website says no STC is
> required for these. Why not?
>
> Last, Are there any other inexpensive, safe solutions we
> should consider that would hold the engine and/or oil at a
> constant temp? I would think there might be some way to
> cover the engine compartment with old blankets and set a 75
> degree thermstatically controlled heater or light bulb in
> there.
>
> Thanks.

[Morgans]

"ben norton" <nospam.com> wrote
>
> Last, Are there any other inexpensive, safe solutions we
> should consider that would hold the engine and/or oil at a
> constant temp? I would think there might be some way to
> cover the engine compartment with old blankets and set a 75
> degree thermstatically controlled heater or light bulb in
> there.

Heating pads, heat lamps, small quartz heaters; all have been used. If you
use something that does not have a thermostat, use an inline baseboard
heater thermostat, available at home stores.

Add a timer so that it does not run all of the time, and you have a system.
Of course for minimal condensation amounts, run them all of the time.
--
Jim in NC

[Rich S.]

"Morgans" > wrote in message
...
>
> Heating pads, heat lamps, small quartz heaters; all have been used. If
> you use something that does not have a thermostat, use an inline baseboard
> heater thermostat, available at home stores.
>
> Add a timer so that it does not run all of the time, and you have a
> system. Of course for minimal condensation amounts, run them all of the
> time.

Fellow I know also adds a small aquarium pump. The pump sucks outside air in
through a large plastic jar filled with Silica Gel and then exhausts it into
the crankcase breather, slightly pressurizing the crankcase with bone-dry
air.

Rich S.

[Kyle Boatright]

"Rich S." > wrote in message
. ..
> "Morgans" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> Heating pads, heat lamps, small quartz heaters; all have been used. If
>> you use something that does not have a thermostat, use an inline
>> baseboard heater thermostat, available at home stores.
>>
>> Add a timer so that it does not run all of the time, and you have a
>> system. Of course for minimal condensation amounts, run them all of the
>> time.
>
> Fellow I know also adds a small aquarium pump. The pump sucks outside air
> in through a large plastic jar filled with Silica Gel and then exhausts it
> into the crankcase breather, slightly pressurizing the crankcase with
> bone-dry air.
>
> Rich S.

I can't imagine that having much capacity. Even if you only pull (push?) 10
gph through the line, you're going to saturate the silica in a matter of a
few days, aren't you?

KB

[Kyle Boatright]

"ben norton" <nospam.com> wrote in message
...
> The local mechanic is suggesting we add a pad heater (glues
> to the bottom of the oil reservoir on our A-65). He says if
> we keep it plugged in all winter it will not only keep the
> engine ready to start in cold weather, it will minimize temp
> changes and inflow/outflow moist air exchange in the
> cylinders, which will limit corrosion.
>
> I'd appreciate comments or suggestions from those with
> experience. The Aircraft Spruce website says no STC is
> required for these. Why not?
>
> Last, Are there any other inexpensive, safe solutions we
> should consider that would hold the engine and/or oil at a
> constant temp? I would think there might be some way to
> cover the engine compartment with old blankets and set a 75
> degree thermstatically controlled heater or light bulb in
> there.
>
> Thanks.

I have a hotstrip by Reiff. It works well, but I don't leave it on
continually. If it is cold outside, I make a point of going by the airport a
day or three in advance and setting the timer so the heater works for 4-6
hours immediately before my intended flight.

The manufacturers of these products recommend against leaving them on 24/7
due to rust issues.

KB

[Rich S.]

"Kyle Boatright" > wrote in message
...
>
> I can't imagine that having much capacity. Even if you only pull (push?)
> 10 gph through the line, you're going to saturate the silica in a matter
> of a few days, aren't you?

10 gph???? Past the rings and valve seals?

Rich S.

[clipclip]

The local mechanic is suggesting we add a pad heater (glues
to the bottom of the oil reservoir on our A-65). He says if
we keep it plugged in all winter it will not only keep the
engine ready to start in cold weather, it will minimize temp
changes and inflow/outflow moist air exchange in the
cylinders, which will limit corrosion.

Thanks.

a pad heater glued to the bottom of the oil pan will keep the engine nice and warm through most temperatures if you have a blanket on the engine cowl. however, unless your system also heats the cylinders (like the tanis or reiff system) you'll be evaporating the dissolved and acidic water in the engine oil and then condensing it on the cold cylinders and camshaft (if you leave it on all the time).

if you only have an oil heater pad you should not leave it plugged in until you're ready to fly for at least 30-45 minutes within 12 hours. otherwise you might be in for some unscheduled internal corrosion and pretty expensive engine rework before TBO.

frank