Re: Painting is still tough work

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article >,
(Corky Scott) wrote:

> Good thing I like building airplanes so much or I'd think this is
> really work.
>
> Saturday and Sunday I decided to sand blast some parts and paint them.
>
> One of the parts was the second valve cover for the 3.8L Ford V-6 (did
> the other one last weekend). Painting the engine parts is easier than
> doing any of the fuselage stuff because engine parts require the
> special high temp paint and it comes in a spray can. All I have to do


Corky:

I hate to disillusion you, but the temperature specs for "engine enamel"
are the same as those for regular enamel.

I painted my cylinders, crankcase, etc. with PPG two-part, which is
great! All you have to do is wipe any oil off it -- it stays shiny and
chip-free after thre years.

--
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[Corky Scott]

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:28:37 GMT, Orval Fairbairn
> wrote:

>In article >,
> (Corky Scott) wrote:
>
>> Good thing I like building airplanes so much or I'd think this is
>> really work.
>>
>> Saturday and Sunday I decided to sand blast some parts and paint them.
>>
>> One of the parts was the second valve cover for the 3.8L Ford V-6 (did
>> the other one last weekend). Painting the engine parts is easier than
>> doing any of the fuselage stuff because engine parts require the
>> special high temp paint and it comes in a spray can. All I have to do
>
>
>Corky:
>
>I hate to disillusion you, but the temperature specs for "engine enamel"
>are the same as those for regular enamel.
>
>I painted my cylinders, crankcase, etc. with PPG two-part, which is
>great! All you have to do is wipe any oil off it -- it stays shiny and
>chip-free after thre years.

You mean the spray cans that say "specifically designed for hot engine
surfaces" aren't any different from Krylon?

Geeze, another bubble burst.

Corky Scott

[Ernest Christley]

Corky Scott wrote:
> All this blasting used up one entire 100 lb bag of Black Beauty.
> That's one valve cover, one seat support, one seat base, a couple of
> tiny pieces for the nose gear and one seat back, except that the seat
> back had already been painted, I only had to repaint the swivel area
> so that did not actually get blasted. A lot of sand goes very little
> ways.
>

Why are you blasting flat areas? Wrap a piece of abrasive cloth in a
shop cloth and sand down the large areas. If you're worried about
scratches showing through, make a second pass with a higher grit. It'll
still take much less time. I will also be blasting before long, but
only in the corners and crevices where sandpaper doesn't want to go.

--
----Because I can----
http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org/
------------------------

[Peter Dohm]

Corky Scott wrote:
>
> On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:28:37 GMT, Orval Fairbairn
> > wrote:
>
> >In article >,
> > (Corky Scott) wrote:
> >
> >> Good thing I like building airplanes so much or I'd think this is
> >> really work.
> >>
> >> Saturday and Sunday I decided to sand blast some parts and paint them.
> >>
> >> One of the parts was the second valve cover for the 3.8L Ford V-6 (did
> >> the other one last weekend). Painting the engine parts is easier than
> >> doing any of the fuselage stuff because engine parts require the
> >> special high temp paint and it comes in a spray can. All I have to do
> >
> >
> >Corky:
> >
> >I hate to disillusion you, but the temperature specs for "engine enamel"
> >are the same as those for regular enamel.
> >
> >I painted my cylinders, crankcase, etc. with PPG two-part, which is
> >great! All you have to do is wipe any oil off it -- it stays shiny and
> >chip-free after thre years.
>
> You mean the spray cans that say "specifically designed for hot engine
> surfaces" aren't any different from Krylon?
>
> Geeze, another bubble burst.
>
> Corky Scott

Wait a minute! I thought you switched to a Lycosaurus a while back.

Peter

[Pat Thronson]

C'mon Corky, I could blast the same stuff as you in 15 min., blow down and
prime in 15 min., clean up in 15 min, (just stirring it up) :)
Seriously dude, you should try Starblast tm ~40-60 size, (2.5-3.0 surface
profile 100 psi). It is a lot cleaner, looks and cuts a lot like silica but
very little dust. The only problem is the availability of it, as I believe
it is only made in Florida, or find a staging area. Copper/coal slag is
better for economy blasting.
If it was me, I would be more incline to use a complete 2-part coating
system including the top coat.

"The mask is on while mixing as this stuff too is dangerous."

I have seen painters throw cigs in paint cans and not go boom. I have seen
them smoke inside confined spaces (active ventilation) and not go boom,
although I have heard of them getting blown out of a tank, so take that as a
negative for smoking while painting. If you really want to get paranoid OSHA
requires your paint sprayer and lines to be grounded (static electricity).

"Even at 100 psi and decent sand flow, sand blasting anything takes time."

If a production blaster cannot blast 1,000 sq. feet to a SSPC-SP-10 in a day
he will be reconsidered for the position.
I would suggest using welding gloves to rotate your pieces while blasting,
less clamp time.
Other than adding my 2 cents, A worthy post.

Best advice; follow directions from the manufacture (read paint can),

And to the next post, blasting is always better than sanding (more even
surface profile), just takes longer for setup and disposal.


Pat Thronson NACE #1193

[Del Rawlins]

On 21 Jul 2003 05:25 PM, Ernest Christley posted the following:
> Corky Scott wrote:
>> All this blasting used up one entire 100 lb bag of Black Beauty.
>> That's one valve cover, one seat support, one seat base, a couple of
>> tiny pieces for the nose gear and one seat back, except that the seat
>> back had already been painted, I only had to repaint the swivel area
>> so that did not actually get blasted. A lot of sand goes very little
>> ways.
>>
>
> Why are you blasting flat areas? Wrap a piece of abrasive cloth in a
> shop cloth and sand down the large areas. If you're worried about
> scratches showing through, make a second pass with a higher grit.
> It'll still take much less time. I will also be blasting before long,
> but only in the corners and crevices where sandpaper doesn't want to
> go.

Because sandblasting does a better, more thorough job than sandpaper,
and provides the best possible surface texture for coating adhesion.

Corky, what sort of sandblasting equipment are you using? I've had
dismal results with cheaper siphon type units (the blast out of a bucket
type) and finally broke down and bought a pressure tank blaster, which
still uses a lot of sand (and air) but is about 3-4 times as effective
as any siphon unit I have seen. If one is available for rental,
consider renting a pressure blast unit. At the time I was living in a
remote Alaskan fishing town and my only option was to buy one and have
it shipped in.

Depending on how many items you will need to blast and paint, it may be
worth a few bucks to drop them all off at a powdercoater who is set up
to do the work efficiently.

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins-
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

[Corky Scott]

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003 02:39:59 GMT, "Pat Thronson"
> wrote:

>C'mon Corky, I could blast the same stuff as you in 15 min., blow down and
>prime in 15 min., clean up in 15 min, (just stirring it up) :)
>Seriously dude, you should try Starblast tm ~40-60 size, (2.5-3.0 surface
>profile 100 psi). It is a lot cleaner, looks and cuts a lot like silica but
>very little dust. The only problem is the availability of it, as I believe
>it is only made in Florida, or find a staging area. Copper/coal slag is
>better for economy blasting.
>If it was me, I would be more incline to use a complete 2-part coating
>system including the top coat.

I don't think so Pat. The items were intricate and spindly and sand
is sand. One type may be slightly more abrasive than another but
Black Beauty is designed for blasting and I've seen it tested
scientifically against three other abrasives and it won the blast off
by a wide margin.

>"The mask is on while mixing as this stuff too is dangerous."
>
>I have seen painters throw cigs in paint cans and not go boom. I have seen
>them smoke inside confined spaces (active ventilation) and not go boom,
>although I have heard of them getting blown out of a tank, so take that as a
>negative for smoking while painting. If you really want to get paranoid OSHA
>requires your paint sprayer and lines to be grounded (static electricity).

Whoops, you missed the point here Pat. I wasn't concerned about
explosions or fire, I was concerned about inhaling the vapors. Pretty
much that's what any spray painter is concerned with. Have you ever
spray painted using epoxies or urethanes? I still remember reading
about a builder who spray painted his tail feathers in a closed narrow
shop. He'd built several airplanes previously, but he apparently just
forgot to use a mask this time. He lingered on for several months
before dying.
>
>"Even at 100 psi and decent sand flow, sand blasting anything takes time."
>
>If a production blaster cannot blast 1,000 sq. feet to a SSPC-SP-10 in a day
>he will be reconsidered for the position.
>I would suggest using welding gloves to rotate your pieces while blasting,
>less clamp time.
>Other than adding my 2 cents, A worthy post.

I'm not a professional and this was just a backyard operation using a
cheapo Sears siphon feed blaster and an air compressor that could
barely keep up with demand. None of the pieces were clamped, I in
fact WAS doing exactly what you suggest: holding the pieces and
rotating them for complete coverage.

>Best advice; follow directions from the manufacture (read paint can),

I don't know where you read in my post that I was NOT following
directions. Did you actually read what I wrote?

>And to the next post, blasting is always better than sanding (more even
>surface profile), just takes longer for setup and disposal.

>Pat Thronson NACE #1193

To your last sentence, I agree.

Corky Scott

[Stealth Pilot]

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:30:32 GMT,
(Corky Scott) wrote:


Corky
I wear a boilersuit when beading.
just remember to empty the top pockets before taking it off :-)
also get yourself a pair of gauntlet style rubber gloves. they save
all the agony on the hands.
Stealth Pilot
Australia

[Pat Thronson]

Corky,



I was guessing you would do a Goggle search on items in my post, so I will
do it for you.

This is just one of the hits.

http://www.passonnopaints.com/Pages/Starblast.cfm

Although I do not agree with all which is stated.



I started using Black Beauty back in the late 70's (I still have a nice
tattoo from it imbedded in my arm). The last few years I have seen the
introduction of Starblast. It is the best stuff going for non-containment
jobs. I realize small projects like yours might not warrant the hassle of
acquiring such a product but in the new tank construction-painting phase
nothing beats it, so far.

Black Beauty is still used more for rehab jobs. And no, I have no interest
in Starblast, just telling it like I see it.

I know inhaling is bad, I have many times told the paint foreman's to have
his painters wear respirators. I believe it is true that most painters drink
to relieve the headaches after painting. They just don't drop dead because
of indirectly short time sniffing paint. I do know some painters have built
up a "sensitivity" into their body systems which means either they get sick,
quit painting or wear proper full face protection. Some I work with are into
their 60's. Note to self: Maybe that is why the painter's union in the
Chicago area is thinking about lowering their full retirement benefit plan
down to 55 instead of 62??

Yes, I did read what you posted, and no I did not direct the "follow
directions from the paint manufacture" to you but as a general common sense
reminder to all.

I have been in the blasting and painting industry for over 22 years, the
last 13 years as a Certified NACE and CWI inspector (goggle search if you
must). During the painting phase, my job is mainly to make sure the
contractor follows the specifications as directed by the Engineer and the
paint manufacture recommendations, so sorry if I offended you, this was not
my intent of my post.

I like to give back any information I have learned during my years of the
fight against corrosion. (My motto is rust never sleeps)

I am hanging out in news groups such as this to see what is going on, as I
too would like to someday get into the home building of an airplane. As a
private pilot I know the costs of renting.

..

regards,

Pat Thronson

Babb, MT