Favorite technique for removing rusted screws??

[Michael Horowitz]

I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.

Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
rusted screws? - Mike

[Vaughn Simon]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
>
> Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean.

Good so far. A tiny bit of tapping on each screw may be a good idea, or
may just be wasted effort.

>Then
> sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.

At that point stop! Get out your Dremel with one of those thin, fragile
little cutoff wheels and cut the slot a litle deeper and square it off at the
bottom before you try again. If it is a Phillips head, just cut a new flat slot
across the head.

Vaughn

[pbc76049]

Wipe the screw head with mek to remove the PB Blaster from the screw head.
Use a q Tip, and then SUPERGLUE THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT.
This really helps keep the slot together and stops camout. ALSO use the
correct screwdriver for the job. Straight slot screws need straight slot
screwdrivers.
Putting common screwdrivers in straight slots forces the screwdriver out
when you crank on it.

--
Have a great day

Scott


"Vaughn Simon" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
>> them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean.
>
> Good so far. A tiny bit of tapping on each screw may be a good idea,
> or may just be wasted effort.
>
>>Then
>> sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
>> slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
>
> At that point stop! Get out your Dremel with one of those thin,
> fragile little cutoff wheels and cut the slot a litle deeper and square it
> off at the bottom before you try again. If it is a Phillips head, just
> cut a new flat slot across the head.
>
> Vaughn
>
>
>

[Vaughn Simon]

"pbc76049" > wrote in message
...
> Wipe the screw head with mek to remove the PB Blaster from the screw head.
> Use a q Tip, and then SUPERGLUE THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT.

That is a new one on me! Now that you mention it, I have heard others say
they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver to
reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.

Vaughn

[Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
> round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
>
> Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
> sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
>
> Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
> rusted screws? - Mike

Use a fresh replacable bit instead of "regular" screwdrivers - they grip
better and can be replaced when they wear. Set your self up so you can apply
a lot of force into the screw before you start turning - a speed handle
(looks like a "brace" (hand drill) ) lets you apply a lot of weight on the
end. For a picture:


<http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944271000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes>
Craftsman 16 in. Speed Wrench
Sears item #00944271000 Mfr. model #44271

If the tube is reasonably solid, a hand impact driver will work real well.
You hit these with a hammer while applying a small turning force with your
hand - the trick is to not try to turn it too much. For a picture:
KD Tools SAE Impact Driver Set
Sears item #00999001000 Mfr. model #KDS1140

<http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?at=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00999001000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes>

Obviously, these can be found at other stores also...

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

[Robert Bates]

I'm not a fan of overpriced tools but the Snap On phillips screwdrivers are
better fitting than any other Phillips I have ever used and rarely strip the
heads out.

I'll second the tapping and it also sometimes helps to tighten the screw
slightly before trying to remove it.

[Tom Young[_2_]]

"Vaughn Simon" <...> wrote in message
...
>
> I have heard others say they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the
> tip of the screwdriver to reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.
>

I've used a product called "Screw Grab," which is a slurry of some kind of
abrasive powder in oil. Same idea. Works pretty well.

Tom Young

[Steve Foley[_2_]]

"Tom Young" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Vaughn Simon" <...> wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> I have heard others say they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the
>> tip of the screwdriver to reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.
>>
>
> I've used a product called "Screw Grab," which is a slurry of some kind of
> abrasive powder in oil. Same idea. Works pretty well.
>
> Tom Young

I've had good luck with valve gringing compound


>
>

[[email protected]]

I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952155000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
> I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
> round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
>
> Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
> sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
>
> Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
> rusted screws? - Mike

[[email protected]]

I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
well.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952155000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1

(copy and paste the address if it is too long)

I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
work well?

Regards,
Bud

Michael Horowitz wrote:
> I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
> round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
>
> Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
> sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
>
> Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
> rusted screws? - Mike

[[email protected]]

After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
to twist the head off!
Then you will need the extractors.

I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
the screw then take it
out with a vice grip.

Bill Hale


wrote:
> I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
> well.
>
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952155000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1
>
> (copy and paste the address if it is too long)
>
> I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
> under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
> handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
> small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
> some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
> the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
> Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
> good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
> susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
> groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
> or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
> replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
> Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
> work well?
>
> Regards,
> Bud
>
> Michael Horowitz wrote:
> > I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
> > round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
> >
> > Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> > them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
> > sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> > slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
> >
> > Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
> > rusted screws? - Mike

[Cy Galley]

Had a Cessna 172 come into Emergency Aircraft Repair at Oshkosh with a
damaged spinner. The lady pilot want it removed so pieces didn't fly off
during the flight back home.

Unfortunately, the spinner hadn't been removed in many years. The Screws
were rusted tight. Used all of the techniques that have been listed and
failed to remove a single screw. It looked hopeless as all the slots got
rounded out.

I got out a sharp cold chisel and after getting a good bite on the side of
the screw head, angled the chisel to rotate the screw. Took about a minute a
screw to get them started to have them protrude enough to grab with vice
grips and spin them the rest of the way out.

Lady pilot was a little perturbed when I said that the spinner should have
been removed at every annual time by the mechanic so as to check the prop
bolts. Her response was..."I'll tell that to my husband, the IA.! LOL

--
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A 45 Year Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot

" > wrote in message
ps.com...
> After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
> to twist the head off!
> Then you will need the extractors.
>
> I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
> the screw then take it
> out with a vice grip.
>
> Bill Hale
>
>
> wrote:
>> I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
>> well.
>>
>> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952155000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1
>>
>> (copy and paste the address if it is too long)
>>
>> I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
>> under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
>> handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
>> small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
>> some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
>> the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
>> Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
>> good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
>> susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
>> groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
>> or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
>> replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
>> Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
>> work well?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Bud
>>
>> Michael Horowitz wrote:
>> > I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
>> > round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
>> >
>> > Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
>> > them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
>> > sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
>> > slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
>> >
>> > Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
>> > rusted screws? - Mike
>

[[email protected]]

I've never encountered a protruding head screw that was too difficult
to get out using some method of cutting a slot or making some flat
areas so you can use a wrench as you say. Unless it was corroded along
the threads. I had to use a small file to make a slot in a spinner
screw several times (protruding head screw). I have twisted the head
off too many bolts. Don't remind me! But the problem here is usually
being able to get enough torque on the screw to remove it, as is often
the problem with countersunk screws. When the screw is located in thin
aluminum sheet as is often the case on aircraft, using a dremel around
the head of the screw is not an option! In my opinion, removing stuck
or broken screws is the toughest job a mechanic faces.

Bud


wrote:
> After you do all these things to the head, you will have enough torque
> to twist the head off!
> Then you will need the extractors.
>
> I've found you can use the dremel tool to make a square like head on
> the screw then take it
> out with a vice grip.
>
> Bill Hale
>
>
> wrote:
> > I have found these power extractors available at Sears to work very
> > well.
> >
> > http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952155000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1
> >
> > (copy and paste the address if it is too long)
> >
> > I had to use them on a 6-32 countersunk screw in an inspection plate
> > under the leading egde. They have a carbide drill on one end (left
> > handed), with the proper size fluted extractor on the other end. For
> > small screws, the drill set on reverse usually does it. In fact, in
> > some instances, the left hand drill backs the screw out without using
> > the extractor (you do need a reversing drill).
> > Also, the advice to use replaceable tips in the screwdriver is a
> > good one. Even the best screwdriver will eventually get worn and be
> > susceptible "cam out". There are tips that have small spikes in the
> > groves that really grip well, especially when you also use a good paste
> > or compound too increase friction. They are much cheaper than having to
> > replace the whole screwdriver. A good oil penetrant like Aerokroil or
> > Mousemilk is good too. I've never tried the penetrant you used. Does it
> > work well?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bud
> >
> > Michael Horowitz wrote:
> > > I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
> > > round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
> > >
> > > Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> > > them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
> > > sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> > > slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
> > > rusted screws? - Mike

[OtisWinslow]

Use a chisel to put a V shaped slot in the edge of the screw. Now put a
punch in the
slot on a tangent to the screw head and tap it with a hammer to turn the
screw.


"Michael Horowitz" > wrote in message
...
> I'm disassembling an alerion and am running into a lot of small steel
> round headed screws that attach aluminum sheet to steel tube.
>
> Before attempting to remove these screws, I apply PB Blaster and let
> them sit 24hrs. then I ensure the screwdriver slot is clean. Then
> sometimes the screw backs out nicely; other times the screwdriver
> slips out, beginning the process of rounding the head.
>
> Does anyone have a series of steps they'd care to share on removing
> rusted screws? - Mike

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The
philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so
I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great.
thanks again,
tom

Vaughn Simon wrote:
> I have heard others say
> they use a bit of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver to
> reduce cam out. Never tried it myself.
> Vaughn

[kd5sak]

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
> weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The
> philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so
> I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great.
> thanks again,
> tom
>
Using the term "POS" reminds me that I have a sterling example of truth in
advertising.
I'm using an old CB power supply to power my 2 meter transceiver. I've had
it for about 20 years and , within its limits it works quite well (12 volts
at 4 amps can only furnish 10 watts output with my FT-1500M transceiver but
that gets into the local repeaters just fine). To get back to the truth in
advertising point, the model number of the power supply is POS 124Z. How
could they be more honest than that.(G)

Harold
KD5SAK

[Vaughn Simon]

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Thanks for the tip. I helped my son work on his POS VW bus last
> weekend, and we needed to remove a number of very rusted screws. The
> philips head screwdriver kept torquing out and buggering the screw, so
> I tried your valve grinding compound trick, and it worked great.
> thanks again,

Kool! I will have to try it myself someday.

Vaughn