Removing RTV

[John[_9_]]

I am trying to remove some RTV silicone sealant. I have carved and
scraped off most of it and am wondering what others have tried to
remove the residue left after mechanical removal. Paint stripper
doesn't work and I am trying some MEK now. Any thoughts?

John Dupre'

[Orval Fairbairn]

In article m>,
"John" > wrote:

> I am trying to remove some RTV silicone sealant. I have carved and
> scraped off most of it and am wondering what others have tried to
> remove the residue left after mechanical removal. Paint stripper
> doesn't work and I am trying some MEK now. Any thoughts?
>
> John Dupre'

Gasoline, lacquer thinner, MEK, TCE will lift it off, but it will
probably still need some mechanical removal.

[Peter Dohm]

> > I am trying to remove some RTV silicone sealant. I have carved and
> > scraped off most of it and am wondering what others have tried to
> > remove the residue left after mechanical removal. Paint stripper
> > doesn't work and I am trying some MEK now. Any thoughts?
> >
> > John Dupre'
>
> Gasoline, lacquer thinner, MEK, TCE will lift it off, but it will
> probably still need some mechanical removal.

TCE was the long time standard, since it wouldn't harm most other materials;
but where does one obtain it today?

Peter

[[email protected]]

Your local hardware store should have something to specifically remove
bathtub silicone.
It was invented about 20 yrs. ago.

[Morgans[_2_]]

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> Your local hardware store should have something to specifically remove
> bathtub silicone.
> It was invented about 20 yrs. ago.
>
Good luck with that!

The best I have found is a mechanical, if you wish, but specifically scotchbrite
pad with an abrasive, like valve lapping compound, or comet cleanser, or rubbing
compound.

Silicone caulk was invented partially for its high resistance to chemicals.
--
Jim in NC

[wright1902glider]

Last time I had to remove the high-temp stuff from the threads of SS
bolts in a boat motor, my Dad (an A&P for 35 years) made me use leaded
MOGAS. That was in 1979.

That loosened everything up, but I still wound up peeling most of it
off of the bolt threads, and then hitting it with an SS wire toothbrush
dipped in gas, followed by a red shop rag.

Knowing what we know now regarding shop safety, I don't think I'd go
that route again unless nothing else worked. And then, I'd be extremely
careful. Gasoline has some very nasty properties when it comes to vapor
pressures and flamibility. Maybe just a soak in a small amount of gas
poured into a coffee can, placed squarely in the middle of my
vegetation-free back yard, followed by a rinse in something less
flamible.

Harry

[Richard Riley[_1_]]

wright1902glider wrote:
> Last time I had to remove the high-temp stuff from the threads of SS
> bolts in a boat motor, my Dad (an A&P for 35 years) made me use leaded
> MOGAS. That was in 1979.
>
> That loosened everything up, but I still wound up peeling most of it
> off of the bolt threads, and then hitting it with an SS wire toothbrush
> dipped in gas, followed by a red shop rag.

My dad must have known your dad. A rag soaked (dripping wet) in about
3/4 motor oil and 1/4 gasoline laid on the RTV for a day. That made
the RTV swell up and get very weak, then mechanically removed with
whatever was handy. I got that lesson in 1981.