lead tail ballast

[[email protected]]

Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
weight.
The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
still
within limits.

I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
to the rear
half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
lead tail
ballast?








------------

pik20_d9

[stephanevdv]

If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
with a metal rim!


schreef:

> Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
> weight.
> The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
> still
> within limits.
>
> I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
> to the rear
> half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
> lead tail
> ballast?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------
>
> pik20_d9

[Eric Greenwell]

stephanevdv wrote:
>
>
> schreef:
>
>> Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
>> weight.
>> The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
>> still
>> within limits.
>>
>> I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
>> to the rear
>> half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
>> lead tail
>> ballast?
> If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
> it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
> melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
> with a metal rim!

Is it important to keep the tail wheel balanced?

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

"Transponders in Sailplanes" on the Soaring Safety Foundation website
www.soaringsafety.org/prevention/articles.html

"A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

[bumper]

"stephanevdv" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
> it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
> melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
> with a metal rim!
>


Well, you probably won't get to add 6 lb this way - - at least on the
typical tailwheel (g). However, it is useful for balancing the tailwheel and
mainwheel/s too, assuming there's not a good spot for securing balance
weights with double sticky tape etc.

To balance wheels I use a static motorcycle wheel balance stand. Temporarily
balance wheel with modeling clay (plasticene). Weigh clay to determine
appropriate amount of lead to melt. Insert a small loop of safety wire into
the wheel cavity that is to hold weight, with loop of wire extending out of
cavity. Pour in molten lead, it will solidify almost immediately. Spray with
water to aid cooling (though I've not experienced any tire damage when not
cooling with water, as the aluminum wheel conducts heat away rapidly and the
amount of lead used to balance a wheel is typically small.

Remove lead weight using safety wire handle. Coat weight and wheel cavity
with contact cement and reinstall weight.

I've cast a lead weight in-place, using a mixture of lead shot, epoxy resin
and cut strands of fiberglass. Line the area, where the weight is to go with
Saran Wrap or plastic cling wrap to act as a release agent. Weigh the lead
shot and make an allowance for the weight of the epoxy resin. Mix epoxy
resin, lead shot and some cut glass fiber for strength (I cut strips of
fiberglass cloth and unwove it to get short strands) and pour mixture into
cavity. It will get warm as it cures. Be sure cavity is shaped so you can
later remove weight. If need be, you might install a suitable divider and
make weight in more than one piece if need be.

--
bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)>
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
Quiet Vent & MKII Yaw String

[bumper]

"Eric Greenwell" > wrote in message
news:naL1h.4040$pU3.3154@trndny08...
possible
>> with a metal rim!
>
> Is it important to keep the tail wheel balanced?
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
> Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
>
> "Transponders in Sailplanes" on the Soaring Safety Foundation website
> www.soaringsafety.org/prevention/articles.html
>
> "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

I suppose that depends on how big and/or how out of balance the tailwheel
is. When I owned a Stemme, I found that it made a difference. But there are
some that think I fuss needlessly over such minutia (g).

bumper

[[email protected]]

bumper wrote:
> "stephanevdv" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> > If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
> > it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
> > melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
> > with a metal rim!
> >
>
>
> Well, you probably won't get to add 6 lb this way - - at least on the
> typical tailwheel (g). However, it is useful for balancing the tailwheel and
> mainwheel/s too, assuming there's not a good spot for securing balance
> weights with double sticky tape etc.
>
> To balance wheels I use a static motorcycle wheel balance stand. Temporarily
> balance wheel with modeling clay (plasticene). Weigh clay to determine
> appropriate amount of lead to melt. Insert a small loop of safety wire into
> the wheel cavity that is to hold weight, with loop of wire extending out of
> cavity. Pour in molten lead, it will solidify almost immediately. Spray with
> water to aid cooling (though I've not experienced any tire damage when not
> cooling with water, as the aluminum wheel conducts heat away rapidly and the
> amount of lead used to balance a wheel is typically small.
>
> Remove lead weight using safety wire handle. Coat weight and wheel cavity
> with contact cement and reinstall weight.
>
> I've cast a lead weight in-place, using a mixture of lead shot, epoxy resin
> and cut strands of fiberglass. Line the area, where the weight is to go with
> Saran Wrap or plastic cling wrap to act as a release agent. Weigh the lead
> shot and make an allowance for the weight of the epoxy resin. Mix epoxy
> resin, lead shot and some cut glass fiber for strength (I cut strips of
> fiberglass cloth and unwove it to get short strands) and pour mixture into
> cavity. It will get warm as it cures. Be sure cavity is shaped so you can
> later remove weight. If need be, you might install a suitable divider and
> make weight in more than one piece if need be.
>
> --
> bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)>
> "Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."
> Quiet Vent & MKII Yaw String

It is a metal tail wheel with a pneumatic rubber tire. I would like to
keep the wheel as balanced as possible.
I think i've heard of someone bolting a strip of lead to the vertical
stabilizer spar. Is this a safe option?

D9

[Papa3]

wrote:
> Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
> weight.
> The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
> still
> within limits.
>
> I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
> to the rear
> half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
> lead tail
> ballast?
>
> ------------
>
> pik20_d9

Some ships (my LS8, for example) have an approved mounting bracket and
procedure. On the LS8, there's a convenient "pocket" between the aft
bulkhead on the vertical stab and the rudder.

The first place I'd look is the PIK maintenance manual.

If you don't have a tailwheel, I've seen some pretty slick designs
using the rubber tail skid. Essentially, part of the skid is hollowed
out and lead is poured in. You need to be a little careful in terms
of leaving enough wall thickness to take any side loads and maintain
the contour of the bonding surface, but it seems to work. It's hard
to get much more than a couple of pounds in there given the typical
skid dimensions.

[Jay]

One of our local PIK-20D pilots - who happens to own a machine shop -
replaced the aluminum tail wheel with a stainless steel tail wheel that
he manufactured himself. Perfectly balanced and just about exactly the
weight you are looking for. If you care to contact me directly, I will
put you in touch.

wrote:
> Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
> weight.
> The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
> still
> within limits.
>
> I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
> to the rear
> half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
> lead tail
> ballast?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------
>
> pik20_d9

[Frank Whiteley]

A friend recently got a brass tailwheel for his DG300. The specific
gravity of brass is about 8.5, stainless steel 7.7, aluminum 2.64.
Just might work if your PIK has a tail wheel and any voids in the
aluminum wheel could be filled in a brass or stainless replacement.

Frank Whiteley

Jay wrote:
> One of our local PIK-20D pilots - who happens to own a machine shop -
> replaced the aluminum tail wheel with a stainless steel tail wheel that
> he manufactured himself. Perfectly balanced and just about exactly the
> weight you are looking for. If you care to contact me directly, I will
> put you in touch.
>
> wrote:
> > Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
> > weight.
> > The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
> > still
> > within limits.
> >
> > I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
> > to the rear
> > half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
> > lead tail
> > ballast?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------
> >
> > pik20_d9

[Ron (RW)]

On 31 Oct 2006 16:18:23 -0800, "Frank Whiteley"
> wrote:

>A friend recently got a brass tailwheel for his DG300. The specific
>gravity of brass is about 8.5, stainless steel 7.7, aluminum 2.64.
>Just might work if your PIK has a tail wheel and any voids in the
>aluminum wheel could be filled in a brass or stainless replacement.
>
>Frank Whiteley
>
>Jay wrote:
>> One of our local PIK-20D pilots - who happens to own a machine shop -
>> replaced the aluminum tail wheel with a stainless steel tail wheel that
>> he manufactured himself. Perfectly balanced and just about exactly the
>> weight you are looking for. If you care to contact me directly, I will
>> put you in touch.
>>
>> wrote:
>> > Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
>> > weight.
>> > The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
>> > still
>> > within limits.
>> >
>> > I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
>> > to the rear
>> > half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
>> > lead tail
>> > ballast?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ------------
>> >
>> > pik20_d9


I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.

[Marc Ramsey]

Ron (RW) wrote:
> I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
> ~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
> weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
> itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.

That must have been long ago, or Oliver is clearing them out of his
shop, as they cost something like 350 euros new from the factory. I had
a local machine shop turn one for me a few years back for $120 (most of
the cost was the brass), they took some measurements off the plastic
wheel, and had it for me the next day...

Marc

[pbc76049]

"> Ron (RW) wrote:
>> I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
>> ~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
>> weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
>> itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.


I would be concious of the polar moments of the weight.
It is possible to be in the cg range and at the same time
exceeed the ability of the aircraft to make a spin recovery.
My first choice would be sliding the pilot back a bit by
making the chute and seat pan mode to get there. If
when you run out of rudder pedal adjustment, there is
always the use of "pads" on the pedals.

Have a great day

Scott

[Paul Remde]

Hi,

A few years back I wanted to add weight to the tail of the Ventus B I was
part owner in at the time. The US Schempp-Hirth dealer at the time (Knauff
and Grove) sold me a lead weight that fit between the top of the fin and the
bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. It was very easy to install and remove
quickly. It worked great. It made it possible for me to fly the glider in
a much better CG location. One of my partners in the glider was much
lighter than me so he flew without the weight installed.

However, I must admit that as a mechanical engineer I was concerned about
putting so much weight (5 to 10 lbs? - I don't recall) up high on the fin.
In a ground loop or hard off-airport landing it would put a lot of twisting
force onto the tailboom. But it was never a problem.

Paul Remde
Cumulus Soaring, Inc.
http://www.cumulus-soaring.com

"Marc Ramsey" > wrote in message
...
> Ron (RW) wrote:
>> I purchased a BRASS tailwheel from DG, out of Calistoga CA. Cost me
>> ~$90, but was plug and Play for my DG200's tailwheel. The entire
>> weight of the wheel, tube and tire came to 6.9 lbs, with the wheel
>> itself weighing in at 6 lbs even.
>
> That must have been long ago, or Oliver is clearing them out of his shop,
> as they cost something like 350 euros new from the factory. I had a local
> machine shop turn one for me a few years back for $120 (most of the cost
> was the brass), they took some measurements off the plastic wheel, and had
> it for me the next day...
>
> Marc

[Marc Ramsey]

pbc76049 wrote:
> I would be concious of the polar moments of the weight.
> It is possible to be in the cg range and at the same time
> exceeed the ability of the aircraft to make a spin recovery.
> My first choice would be sliding the pilot back a bit by
> making the chute and seat pan mode to get there. If
> when you run out of rudder pedal adjustment, there is
> always the use of "pads" on the pedals.

The DG factory will install a brass tailwheel, if you specify a high
enough minimum pilot weight when you order. Those of us who need a
brass tailwheel (or the more conventional block of lead in the tail) are
generally large enough that the seat back needs to be fully back, or in
some cases removed altogether. This really isn't all that unusual...

Marc

[P. Corbett]

wrote:
> Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
> weight.
> The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
> still
> within limits.
>
> I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
> to the rear
> half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
> lead tail
> ballast?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------
>
> pik20_d9
>
Is there an oxygen bottle tray in the boom as there is in the B model?
If so, could you add weight there? Of course, it would require more than
the 6 pounds that you planned on.

Paul

[hans]

If you have non metal rim you can't melt the lead and pour it in, but
you can mix resin with hardener and add lots of grained lead. Use this
mixture to fill the voids in the wheel rim.

If this will not allow to increase the mass of the rim sufficiently, get
a metal turner to build a rim made of brass. Alternatively you may buy a
brass rim for my favorite gilder manufacturer
http:\\www.schempp-hirth.com . I know that others offer the brass rim too.


stephanevdv schrieb:
> If possible with your tailwheel type, you can shape the lead weight so
> it can be attached inside the tailwheel rim. If necessary, you can even
> melt the lead and pour it, using the wheel rim as a mold. Only possible
> with a metal rim!
>
>
> schreef:
>
>> Over the years ,my PIK20D ,not to mention my self ,has gained some
>> weight.
>> The cg with me aboard is now located forward of the mid range although
>> still
>> within limits.
>>
>> I would like to add about 6 pounds of lead to the tail to shift the cg
>> to the rear
>> half of the allowable range. Anyone know the best way to attach the
>> lead tail
>> ballast?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------
>>
>> pik20_d9
>