Plexiglass Glue

[Jim Vincent]

On my canopy side vent, one of the brackets broke where it meets the
rectangular vent. I tried super glue, epoxy, plexi sealant from Lowe's...no
luck.

Fixed it beautifully using Weld-On glue, available from
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Weld-On_binding_adhesive/1/Weld-On_Cement.html#details

Glue is $5.10 plus $8.25 shipping.

[bumper]

If the crack is close fitting and tight, then a water thin solvent cement
may be best, as it will "wick" into the crack to provide a maximum surface
area bond.

http://www.craftics.com/products.cfm?Category=80

The cement you mention is good too, as it has an acrylic filler it should be
better for bonding slight gaps.

In any case, it is advisable to remove the window track before gluing to
prevent glue getting on the canopy proper - - it will mar clear plexi if it
gets on the wrong spot. To help prevent this, the water thin solvent cement
is best applied with a syringe or similar as it takes very little.

bumper

McMaster Carr is also a source for this cement.
"Jim Vincent" > wrote in message
. ..
> On my canopy side vent, one of the brackets broke where it meets the
> rectangular vent. I tried super glue, epoxy, plexi sealant from
> Lowe's...no luck.
>
> Fixed it beautifully using Weld-On glue, available from
> http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Weld-On_binding_adhesive/1/Weld-On_Cement.html#details
>
> Glue is $5.10 plus $8.25 shipping.
>

[qfly]

One of our club instructors showed me a method that works well. Go to
the local hobby shop and buy a piece of brass angle, 1/8" X 1/8" X
12". Take the broken rail off of the canopy. Position the broken
pieces together and lay the brass angle on the corner edge of the rail
so that it will sit opposite of the sliding window and face inside the
canopy (toward the pilot not the canopy) when the rail is place. Cut
the brass to length so that there is plenty of surface area to bond
against the broken pieces. You may choose to cover the entire
length. If you need to notch out the brass where it meets a screw
hole, notch it with a file. With every thing lined up, glue it in
place with epoxy; take care not to get glue in the screw threads. The
other glues may work fine, we have always used epoxy. Let dry
completely and re-install the rail. Be careful not to over tighten
the screws. You won't be bothered by the brass when you fly because
it is located at a place where the thick rail distorts the view
anyway, so you won't notice a difference. This will hold for a long
time while you order a new rail. When the new rail arrives, give the
patched rail to someone that needs it or save it for next time a rail
breaks.

Jim DeRubeis
Greater Houston Soaring Association

On Mar 22, 10:51 pm, "bumper" > wrote:
> If the crack is close fitting and tight, then a water thin solvent cement
> may be best, as it will "wick" into the crack to provide a maximum surface
> area bond.
>
> http://www.craftics.com/products.cfm?Category=80
>
> The cement you mention is good too, as it has an acrylic filler it should be
> better for bonding slight gaps.
>
> In any case, it is advisable to remove the window track before gluing to
> prevent glue getting on the canopy proper - - it will mar clear plexi if it
> gets on the wrong spot. To help prevent this, the water thin solvent cement
> is best applied with a syringe or similar as it takes very little.
>
> bumper
>
> McMaster Carr is also a source for this cement."Jim Vincent" > wrote in message
>
> . ..
>
>
>
>
>
> > On my canopy side vent, one of the brackets broke where it meets the
> > rectangular vent. I tried super glue, epoxy, plexi sealant from
> > Lowe's...no luck.
>
> > Fixed it beautifully using Weld-On glue, available from
> >http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Weld-On_binding_adhesive...
>
> > Glue is $5.10 plus $8.25 shipping.

[bumper]

Jim
"qfly" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> One of our club instructors showed me a method that works well. Go to
> the local hobby shop and buy a piece of brass angle, 1/8" X 1/8" X
> 12". >
> Jim DeRubeis
> Greater Houston Soaring Association


Good idea, Jim.

Fortunately, preventing these cracks is straight forward. I deal with a fair
number of these little windows while installing Quiet Vent kits for people
on the Minden ramp (gorilla marketing). I always check the tightness of the
rail and flip out window screws and find many that are overtightened. They
should be just finger snug, a few inch pounds of torque. Any tighter and the
rail or canopy will develop cracks.

Also it's a good idea to clean and lubricate the sliding window channels to
prevent wear and tear. I use a Q-tip swab, moistened with silicone spray, to
wipe the sliding surfaces.

--
bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)>
"Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."

[01-- Zero One]

Hell Bumper, I had not ordered one of your Quiet Vent kits because of
the high price. But now that I know that it includes installation, I'll
get the check in the mail!



Larry

"zero one"

USA





"bumper" > wrote in message
:

> Jim
> "qfly" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> > One of our club instructors showed me a method that works well. Go to
> > the local hobby shop and buy a piece of brass angle, 1/8" X 1/8" X
> > 12". >
> > Jim DeRubeis
> > Greater Houston Soaring Association
>
>
> Good idea, Jim.
>
> Fortunately, preventing these cracks is straight forward. I deal with a fair
> number of these little windows while installing Quiet Vent kits for people
> on the Minden ramp (gorilla marketing). I always check the tightness of the
> rail and flip out window screws and find many that are overtightened. They
> should be just finger snug, a few inch pounds of torque. Any tighter and the
> rail or canopy will develop cracks.
>
> Also it's a good idea to clean and lubricate the sliding window channels to
> prevent wear and tear. I use a Q-tip swab, moistened with silicone spray, to
> wipe the sliding surfaces.
>
> --
> bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)>
> "Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."

[[email protected]]

On Mar 23, 10:11 am, "01-- Zero One" > wrote:
> Hell Bumper, I had not ordered one of your Quiet Vent kits because of
> the high price. But now that I know that it includes installation, I'll
> get the check in the mail!
>
> Larry
>
> "zero one"
>
> USA
>
> "bumper" > wrote in message
>
> :
>
>
>
> > Jim
> > "qfly" > wrote in message
> ups.com...
> > > One of our club instructors showed me a method that works well. Go to
> > > the local hobby shop and buy a piece of brass angle, 1/8" X 1/8" X
> > > 12". >
> > > Jim DeRubeis
> > > Greater Houston Soaring Association
>
> > Good idea, Jim.
>
> > Fortunately, preventing these cracks is straight forward. I deal with a fair
> > number of these little windows while installing Quiet Vent kits for people
> > on the Minden ramp (gorilla marketing). I always check the tightness of the
> > rail and flip out window screws and find many that are overtightened. They
> > should be just finger snug, a few inch pounds of torque. Any tighter and the
> > rail or canopy will develop cracks.
>
> > Also it's a good idea to clean and lubricate the sliding window channels to
> > prevent wear and tear. I use a Q-tip swab, moistened with silicone spray, to
> > wipe the sliding surfaces.
>
> > --
> > bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)>
> > "Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Some of these repair methods seem pretty involved to save the +\-
$65.00 for a new set of rails (screws included!). I use a plastic
screwdriver (intended for adjusting old electronic equipment) for
tightening the screws. The plastic screwdriver (tuning wand) also has
the advantage of not scratching your canopy when it slips out of the
slot in the screw.

[Jim Vincent]

For the flip out windows, gluing it is very cost effective. $65 for a new
rail set vs 20 minutes for fixing a side rail seems cost effective to me.
> wrote in message
oups.com...
> On Mar 23, 10:11 am, "01-- Zero One" > wrote:
>> Hell Bumper, I had not ordered one of your Quiet Vent kits because of
>> the high price. But now that I know that it includes installation, I'll
>> get the check in the mail!
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> "zero one"
>>
>> USA
>>
>> "bumper" > wrote in message
>>
>> :
>>
>>
>>
>> > Jim
>> > "qfly" > wrote in message
>> ups.com...
>> > > One of our club instructors showed me a method that works well. Go
>> > > to
>> > > the local hobby shop and buy a piece of brass angle, 1/8" X 1/8" X
>> > > 12". >
>> > > Jim DeRubeis
>> > > Greater Houston Soaring Association
>>
>> > Good idea, Jim.
>>
>> > Fortunately, preventing these cracks is straight forward. I deal with a
>> > fair
>> > number of these little windows while installing Quiet Vent kits for
>> > people
>> > on the Minden ramp (gorilla marketing). I always check the tightness of
>> > the
>> > rail and flip out window screws and find many that are overtightened.
>> > They
>> > should be just finger snug, a few inch pounds of torque. Any tighter
>> > and the
>> > rail or canopy will develop cracks.
>>
>> > Also it's a good idea to clean and lubricate the sliding window
>> > channels to
>> > prevent wear and tear. I use a Q-tip swab, moistened with silicone
>> > spray, to
>> > wipe the sliding surfaces.
>>
>> > --
>> > bumper ZZ (reverse all after @)>
>> > "Dare to be different . . . circle in sink."- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Some of these repair methods seem pretty involved to save the +\-
> $65.00 for a new set of rails (screws included!). I use a plastic
> screwdriver (intended for adjusting old electronic equipment) for
> tightening the screws. The plastic screwdriver (tuning wand) also has
> the advantage of not scratching your canopy when it slips out of the
> slot in the screw.
>
>
>