Solo Rigging Equipment

[[email protected]]

I'm interested in being able to rig my glider by myself and have been
looking at the various kinds of equipment out there for this purpose.
Does anyone have any experience with Chip Bearden's WingMate? It
looks like an interesting design. Does anyone have one they are not
using and would like to part with? I tried contacting him about his
WingMate but haven't got a response.

Thanks,
Bob

[Kevin Anderson]

I have an UDO rig that works great the I will sell for $11,000.

It comes with a HP18 N77BF.

Email me if anyone is interested.

Kevin Anderson

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> I'm interested in being able to rig my glider by myself and have been
> looking at the various kinds of equipment out there for this purpose.
> Does anyone have any experience with Chip Bearden's WingMate? It
> looks like an interesting design. Does anyone have one they are not
> using and would like to part with? I tried contacting him about his
> WingMate but haven't got a response.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>

[gfoster07k]

On Apr 1, 9:09 am, wrote:
> I'm interested in being able to rig my glider by myself and have been
> looking at the various kinds of equipment out there for this purpose.
> Does anyone have any experience with Chip Bearden's WingMate? It
> looks like an interesting design. Does anyone have one they are not
> using and would like to part with? I tried contacting him about his
> WingMate but haven't got a response.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

I have made and/or used 4 different types of one man rigging systems.
All were quite different. All worked but some required a lot more
effort than the others. The first was one that was made by Minden Fab
and came with a Minden trailer. It consisted of two stands with
rollers on the top, one for each wing and a small tip dolly for each
wing. The second was a Udo type system that I made out of a Home
Depot outfeed stand, a Volvo jack, two bicycle kick stands and wheels
and axle. The wing saddle was made out of fiberglass with a small
steel frame. It was quite easy to make. The third was a system with
a "U" shaped saddle on a stand that was place next to the glider to
hold the spar and also let the wing be rotated into the horizontal
position. There was a tip dolly and a stand with a roller on the top
placed at the wing CG like the Minden stands. The fourth was used on
a Libelle and consisted of a fuselage dolly that allowed the fuselage
to tilt to one side. The wing was wheeled out of the trailer and with
a tip dolly the wing was wheeled around to the side and the spar put
on the tilted fuselage. The small wheels of the tip dolly required a
smooth surface. The tip dolly permitted the wing to be rotated into
the horizontal position almost lying on the ground. The wing was
lifted to the horizontal and put on a wing stand. The other wing was
wheeled out and into position and simply set on the fuselage and then
the tip was raised and pushed into place and a stand put under the
wing. This system took lots of lifting but worked. The Udo style
system was the best as long as the field was flat enough for the
wheels to roll OK. The biggest wheel possible would be best. The
Minden and "U" saddle systems worked best if the field was rough since
that was not an issue but the rollers tended to be hard on the wing
lower surface if the rubber rollers were not in perfect condition.
There is another Minden type that has two stands with tracks on the
top and little padded shuttle cars that go on the tracks. It is a big
system that disassembles for storage but it works on rough fields and
has no rollers to damage the wings. Both Minden types require that
the spar dollies in the trailer be designed to enable rotating the
wing to the horizontal while still attached to the trailer spar
dollies.

Greg

[Bill Daniels]

There is a variation on Bob's and Greg's systems that may work better for
some.

The key is a wing root dolly that allows the wing to swing out like a gate
once the wing root is rolled to the tailgate. It doesn't allow the wing to
rotate about its spanwise axis. You need a Udo-type 1-man rig dolly too.

The proceedure is to roll the fuselage off the trailer first. Then roll the
wing out until the root dolley hits a stop at the tailgate. Then swing the
wing out about 45 degrees - practice will determine the exact angle. Then,
set the wing on a tip stand with it still in the vertical plane. The Udo
dolly is rolled into position next to the wing between the fuselage and wing
just outboard the spanwise CG. The wing is then lifted onto the Udo dolly
and clamped into place.

With the wing in this position, set the tip stand aside and release the spar
from the root dolly. Pick it up and rotate it flat as you walk the spar to
the fuselage and slide it into place. The Udo dolly will only roll about 2
feet so only this ground needs to be flat. It takes less room around the
trailer and there is less chance to tip the wing over while rolling it out
past the tail.

If you have a REALLY heavy wing like a Lark or Lak-12, it's possible to fit
a jackable, castering wing tip dolly. Then, you don't have to lift anything
at all.

Bill Daniels


"gfoster07k" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> On Apr 1, 9:09 am, wrote:
>> I'm interested in being able to rig my glider by myself and have been
>> looking at the various kinds of equipment out there for this purpose.
>> Does anyone have any experience with Chip Bearden's WingMate? It
>> looks like an interesting design. Does anyone have one they are not
>> using and would like to part with? I tried contacting him about his
>> WingMate but haven't got a response.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bob
>
> I have made and/or used 4 different types of one man rigging systems.
> All were quite different. All worked but some required a lot more
> effort than the others. The first was one that was made by Minden Fab
> and came with a Minden trailer. It consisted of two stands with
> rollers on the top, one for each wing and a small tip dolly for each
> wing. The second was a Udo type system that I made out of a Home
> Depot outfeed stand, a Volvo jack, two bicycle kick stands and wheels
> and axle. The wing saddle was made out of fiberglass with a small
> steel frame. It was quite easy to make. The third was a system with
> a "U" shaped saddle on a stand that was place next to the glider to
> hold the spar and also let the wing be rotated into the horizontal
> position. There was a tip dolly and a stand with a roller on the top
> placed at the wing CG like the Minden stands. The fourth was used on
> a Libelle and consisted of a fuselage dolly that allowed the fuselage
> to tilt to one side. The wing was wheeled out of the trailer and with
> a tip dolly the wing was wheeled around to the side and the spar put
> on the tilted fuselage. The small wheels of the tip dolly required a
> smooth surface. The tip dolly permitted the wing to be rotated into
> the horizontal position almost lying on the ground. The wing was
> lifted to the horizontal and put on a wing stand. The other wing was
> wheeled out and into position and simply set on the fuselage and then
> the tip was raised and pushed into place and a stand put under the
> wing. This system took lots of lifting but worked. The Udo style
> system was the best as long as the field was flat enough for the
> wheels to roll OK. The biggest wheel possible would be best. The
> Minden and "U" saddle systems worked best if the field was rough since
> that was not an issue but the rollers tended to be hard on the wing
> lower surface if the rubber rollers were not in perfect condition.
> There is another Minden type that has two stands with tracks on the
> top and little padded shuttle cars that go on the tracks. It is a big
> system that disassembles for storage but it works on rough fields and
> has no rollers to damage the wings. Both Minden types require that
> the spar dollies in the trailer be designed to enable rotating the
> wing to the horizontal while still attached to the trailer spar
> dollies.
>
> Greg
>

[Wayne Paul]

Here is a look at Hugh Helick's solution to the one-man rigging problem.
http://www.soaridaho.com/Schreder/Construction/HP-18_RIGGING.html
Hugh also developed a laser alignment aide.
http://www.soaridaho.com/Schreder/Construction/LaserAlign.htm

A few years ago "Sailplane Builder" news letter had an article describing
construction of an "Udo" type wing dolly.
http://www.soaridaho.com/Schreder/Construction/Wing_Carrier/LWT-3.htm

Wayne
HP-14 "6F"
http://www.soaridaho.com/


"Bill Daniels" <bildan@comcast-dot-net> wrote in message
...
> There is a variation on Bob's and Greg's systems that may work better for
> some.
>
> The key is a wing root dolly that allows the wing to swing out like a gate
> once the wing root is rolled to the tailgate. It doesn't allow the wing
> to rotate about its spanwise axis. You need a Udo-type 1-man rig dolly
> too.
>
> The proceedure is to roll the fuselage off the trailer first. Then roll
> the wing out until the root dolley hits a stop at the tailgate. Then
> swing the wing out about 45 degrees - practice will determine the exact
> angle. Then, set the wing on a tip stand with it still in the vertical
> plane. The Udo dolly is rolled into position next to the wing between the
> fuselage and wing just outboard the spanwise CG. The wing is then lifted
> onto the Udo dolly and clamped into place.
>
> With the wing in this position, set the tip stand aside and release the
> spar from the root dolly. Pick it up and rotate it flat as you walk the
> spar to the fuselage and slide it into place. The Udo dolly will only
> roll about 2 feet so only this ground needs to be flat. It takes less
> room around the trailer and there is less chance to tip the wing over
> while rolling it out past the tail.
>
> If you have a REALLY heavy wing like a Lark or Lak-12, it's possible to
> fit a jackable, castering wing tip dolly. Then, you don't have to lift
> anything at all.
>
> Bill Daniels

[Eric Greenwell]

Bill Daniels wrote:
> There is a variation on Bob's and Greg's systems that may work better for
> some.
>
> The key is a wing root dolly that allows the wing to swing out like a gate
> once the wing root is rolled to the tailgate. It doesn't allow the wing to
> rotate about its spanwise axis. You need a Udo-type 1-man rig dolly too.
>
> The proceedure is to roll the fuselage off the trailer first. Then roll the
> wing out until the root dolley hits a stop at the tailgate. Then swing the
> wing out about 45 degrees - practice will determine the exact angle.

This would not be good solution in our area, where we frequently have
wind during rigging/derigging. We use the Udo/Cobra style dollies, with
the trailer pointed directly into the wind. The wing is pulled from the
trailer with the trailing up. After it is on the dolly adn still lined
up with the wind, it is maneuvered a little ways from the trailer, then
the wing is rotated until it is flat.

Once it is flat, the wind has much less effect on it, and the wing can
be moved perpendicular to the wind and the root slid into the fuselage.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
* "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

[[email protected]]

On Apr 2, 7:17 pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> Bill Daniels wrote:
> > There is a variation on Bob's and Greg's systems that may work better for
> > some.
>
> > The key is a wing root dolly that allows the wing to swing out like a gate
> > once the wing root is rolled to the tailgate. It doesn't allow the wing to
> > rotate about its spanwise axis. You need a Udo-type 1-man rig dolly too.
>
> > The proceedure is to roll the fuselage off the trailer first. Then roll the
> > wing out until the root dolley hits a stop at the tailgate. Then swing the
> > wing out about 45 degrees - practice will determine the exact angle.
>
> This would not be good solution in our area, where we frequently have
> wind during rigging/derigging. We use the Udo/Cobra style dollies, with
> the trailer pointed directly into the wind. The wing is pulled from the
> trailer with the trailing up. After it is on the dolly adn still lined
> up with the wind, it is maneuvered a little ways from the trailer, then
> the wing is rotated until it is flat.
>
> Once it is flat, the wind has much less effect on it, and the wing can
> be moved perpendicular to the wind and the root slid into the fuselage.
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
> * Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
> * "Transponders in Sailplanes"http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
> * "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" atwww.motorglider.org

Expanding on Eric's comments, I have used the Udo dolly for around
8-10 years. I place the dolly beside the fuselage with the trailer
pointed into the wind. This allows me to pull the wing out of the
trailer w/o any side forces on the vertical (and vulnerable!) wing. I
lift the wing over the dolly's saddle as I pull the wing out. After
the wing is all the way out, in the saddle and the dolly clamp
attached, I lift the wing tip and move the wing (and dolly) about a
foot away from the fuselage. This allows the dolly's tires to clear
the fuselage. From here on out it is the pretty standard procedure:
move the wing back until it is clear from the fuselage, rotate the
wing horizontal, manuevour the wing root into the fuselage, place wing
stand under the wing and repeat for the other wing.

I have used the Udo dolly on rough (dirt) surfaces and winds up to 20
kt successfully. It can also be used to rig and derig a glider that
isn't at the trailer (read "retrieve"). The only problem I have had
with it is the step of lifting the wing and dolly applies force on the
top of the hand crank, which eventually cracked. I had to have it
brazed to fix it and have not had any problems since.

Having a dolly that allows the fuselage to tip, or rock, slightly is a
huge advantage during one-man assembly. This eliminates the need for
an electric actuator on the dolly to raise and lower the wing (or a
lot of back and forth adjustments).

The key to a some rigging is good alignment. I have a DG-400 and the
position of the wing relative to the fuselage, both yaw and roll, is
critical. Get it right and it goes like a piece of cake. Get it wrong
and you will learn some new swear words.

Tom Seim
Richland, WA

[Frank Whiteley]

On Apr 3, 9:53 am, wrote:
> On Apr 2, 7:17 pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
>
>
>
> > Bill Daniels wrote:
> > > There is a variation on Bob's and Greg's systems that may work better for
> > > some.
>
> > > The key is a wing root dolly that allows the wing to swing out like a gate
> > > once the wing root is rolled to the tailgate. It doesn't allow the wing to
> > > rotate about its spanwise axis. You need a Udo-type 1-man rig dolly too.
>
> > > The proceedure is to roll the fuselage off the trailer first. Then roll the
> > > wing out until the root dolley hits a stop at the tailgate. Then swing the
> > > wing out about 45 degrees - practice will determine the exact angle.
>
> > This would not be good solution in our area, where we frequently have
> > wind during rigging/derigging. We use the Udo/Cobra style dollies, with
> > the trailer pointed directly into the wind. The wing is pulled from the
> > trailer with the trailing up. After it is on the dolly adn still lined
> > up with the wind, it is maneuvered a little ways from the trailer, then
> > the wing is rotated until it is flat.
>
> > Once it is flat, the wind has much less effect on it, and the wing can
> > be moved perpendicular to the wind and the root slid into the fuselage.
>
> > --
> > Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
> > * Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
> > * "Transponders in Sailplanes"http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
> > * "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" atwww.motorglider.org
>
> Expanding on Eric's comments, I have used the Udo dolly for around
> 8-10 years. I place the dolly beside the fuselage with the trailer
> pointed into the wind. This allows me to pull the wing out of the
> trailer w/o any side forces on the vertical (and vulnerable!) wing. I
> lift the wing over the dolly's saddle as I pull the wing out. After
> the wing is all the way out, in the saddle and the dolly clamp
> attached, I lift the wing tip and move the wing (and dolly) about a
> foot away from the fuselage. This allows the dolly's tires to clear
> the fuselage. From here on out it is the pretty standard procedure:
> move the wing back until it is clear from the fuselage, rotate the
> wing horizontal, manuevour the wing root into the fuselage, place wing
> stand under the wing and repeat for the other wing.
>
> I have used the Udo dolly on rough (dirt) surfaces and winds up to 20
> kt successfully. It can also be used to rig and derig a glider that
> isn't at the trailer (read "retrieve"). The only problem I have had
> with it is the step of lifting the wing and dolly applies force on the
> top of the hand crank, which eventually cracked. I had to have it
> brazed to fix it and have not had any problems since.
>
> Having a dolly that allows the fuselage to tip, or rock, slightly is a
> huge advantage during one-man assembly. This eliminates the need for
> an electric actuator on the dolly to raise and lower the wing (or a
> lot of back and forth adjustments).
>
> The key to a some rigging is good alignment. I have a DG-400 and the
> position of the wing relative to the fuselage, both yaw and roll, is
> critical. Get it right and it goes like a piece of cake. Get it wrong
> and you will learn some new swear words.
>
> Tom Seim
> Richland, WA

I had an Udo dolly with my LAK-12. The wings tend to be a bit leading
edge heavy and the root dollies are unstable. It can be rigged with
two, with the second person guarding against tipping. However,
lifting the tips in and out of the factory trailer saddles if a real
PITA. I intend to finish modifying the trailer as in the following
examples for a one person rig system. This means widening the axle
track and removing the inner wheel wells.

The first example came with Bob Faris' LS-3. I don't know who
designed it, but it is an elegant, aluminum solution.
http://www.coloradosoaring.org/rigging/rigging_plan_aluminum_example.pdf
(1.6mb)

The second example was derived from the first, but built in steel and
is used for a G-102.
http://www.coloradosoaring.org/rigging/rigging_plan_steel_example.pdf
(1.1mb)

Frank Whiteley

[Bill Daniels]

Note that in Bob's rig, the track of the one man dolly is MUCH greater than
those that must clear the tailboom/rudder. This makes it very hard for the
wind to overturn it. Also note that Bob rotates the wing level almost as
soon as the root is released from the root dolly. I've seen Bob de-rig his
very heavy LS3 in a 40 kt wind.

I think this system is WAY safer than the "do-si-do" of walking the wing out
past the tail especially in a high wind.

Bill Daniels


"Frank Whiteley" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> On Apr 3, 9:53 am, wrote:
>> On Apr 2, 7:17 pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > Bill Daniels wrote:
>> > > There is a variation on Bob's and Greg's systems that may work better
>> > > for
>> > > some.
>>
>> > > The key is a wing root dolly that allows the wing to swing out like a
>> > > gate
>> > > once the wing root is rolled to the tailgate. It doesn't allow the
>> > > wing to
>> > > rotate about its spanwise axis. You need a Udo-type 1-man rig dolly
>> > > too.
>>
>> > > The proceedure is to roll the fuselage off the trailer first. Then
>> > > roll the
>> > > wing out until the root dolley hits a stop at the tailgate. Then
>> > > swing the
>> > > wing out about 45 degrees - practice will determine the exact angle.
>>
>> > This would not be good solution in our area, where we frequently have
>> > wind during rigging/derigging. We use the Udo/Cobra style dollies, with
>> > the trailer pointed directly into the wind. The wing is pulled from the
>> > trailer with the trailing up. After it is on the dolly adn still lined
>> > up with the wind, it is maneuvered a little ways from the trailer,
>> > then
>> > the wing is rotated until it is flat.
>>
>> > Once it is flat, the wind has much less effect on it, and the wing can
>> > be moved perpendicular to the wind and the root slid into the fuselage.
>>
>> > --
>> > Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
>> > * Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
>> > * "Transponders in Sailplanes"http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
>> > * "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" atwww.motorglider.org
>>
>> Expanding on Eric's comments, I have used the Udo dolly for around
>> 8-10 years. I place the dolly beside the fuselage with the trailer
>> pointed into the wind. This allows me to pull the wing out of the
>> trailer w/o any side forces on the vertical (and vulnerable!) wing. I
>> lift the wing over the dolly's saddle as I pull the wing out. After
>> the wing is all the way out, in the saddle and the dolly clamp
>> attached, I lift the wing tip and move the wing (and dolly) about a
>> foot away from the fuselage. This allows the dolly's tires to clear
>> the fuselage. From here on out it is the pretty standard procedure:
>> move the wing back until it is clear from the fuselage, rotate the
>> wing horizontal, manuevour the wing root into the fuselage, place wing
>> stand under the wing and repeat for the other wing.
>>
>> I have used the Udo dolly on rough (dirt) surfaces and winds up to 20
>> kt successfully. It can also be used to rig and derig a glider that
>> isn't at the trailer (read "retrieve"). The only problem I have had
>> with it is the step of lifting the wing and dolly applies force on the
>> top of the hand crank, which eventually cracked. I had to have it
>> brazed to fix it and have not had any problems since.
>>
>> Having a dolly that allows the fuselage to tip, or rock, slightly is a
>> huge advantage during one-man assembly. This eliminates the need for
>> an electric actuator on the dolly to raise and lower the wing (or a
>> lot of back and forth adjustments).
>>
>> The key to a some rigging is good alignment. I have a DG-400 and the
>> position of the wing relative to the fuselage, both yaw and roll, is
>> critical. Get it right and it goes like a piece of cake. Get it wrong
>> and you will learn some new swear words.
>>
>> Tom Seim
>> Richland, WA
>
> I had an Udo dolly with my LAK-12. The wings tend to be a bit leading
> edge heavy and the root dollies are unstable. It can be rigged with
> two, with the second person guarding against tipping. However,
> lifting the tips in and out of the factory trailer saddles if a real
> PITA. I intend to finish modifying the trailer as in the following
> examples for a one person rig system. This means widening the axle
> track and removing the inner wheel wells.
>
> The first example came with Bob Faris' LS-3. I don't know who
> designed it, but it is an elegant, aluminum solution.
> http://www.coloradosoaring.org/rigging/rigging_plan_aluminum_example.pdf
> (1.6mb)
>
> The second example was derived from the first, but built in steel and
> is used for a G-102.
> http://www.coloradosoaring.org/rigging/rigging_plan_steel_example.pdf
> (1.1mb)
>
> Frank Whiteley
>

[5Z]

On Apr 3, 3:12 pm, "Bill Daniels" <bildan@comcast-dot-net> wrote:
> Note that in Bob's rig, the track of the one man dolly is MUCH greater than
> those that must clear the tailboom/rudder. This makes it very hard for the
> wind to overturn it. Also note that Bob rotates the wing level almost as
> soon as the root is released from the root dolly. I've seen Bob de-rig his
> very heavy LS3 in a 40 kt wind.
>
> I think this system is WAY safer than the "do-si-do" of walking the wing out
> past the tail especially in a high wind.

What helps a lot with the Udo rig is to have an assistant hold some
portion of the dolly while I do all the maneuvering. This person can
then provide whatever stabilization is necessary to keep it form
tipping over.

Never let someone help at the tip for two main reasons:
1) They will want to help by lifting, thus making the root end
heavier!
2) If the rig starts to tip it is very hard for the helper to realize
it's not the wingroot person making the move. I've dropped a wing due
to this method :(

I have also found the dolly itself is much more stable and the wing
doesn't slide around if the leading edge is kept down while
maneuvering. Of course, this means that a helper is mandatory if
there is any wind. I use the rig primarily to protect my back from
heavy lifting (ASH-26E wings are quite heavy) and to allow a more
leisurely and relaxed assembly that lets me pause to deal with any
glitches that come up during the assembly.

-Tom

[HL Falbaum]

--

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> I'm interested in being able to rig my glider by myself and have been
> looking at the various kinds of equipment out there for this purpose.
> Does anyone have any experience with Chip Bearden's WingMate? It
> looks like an interesting design. Does anyone have one they are not
> using and would like to part with? I tried contacting him about his
> WingMate but haven't got a response.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
I had a Wingmate a while back. It is not a "backsaver", but it is light and
compact, and works well in a plowed field. It is not good in high winds, but
OK in milder breezes. It is not for swept back wingtips. It worked well with
my ASW20 and a LS3. It would not work with my ASW27. Chip does not make them
anymore. I sold mine recently.

Hartley Falbaum

[toad]

I don't like the idea of adding 3 more pieces of equipment to my
rigging aids, but I bet that he can do it pretty quick.

I use Udo's dolly and only need a safety spotter over 25 knots or so.
I have them stand at the dolly, not at the tip.

I do rotate the wing to level, if you really crank down on the wing
clamp, then the wing doesn't move around.

One note about Udo's rig, get the lateral adjustment option, it really
improves rigging ease.

Todd Smith
3S

[Frank Whiteley]

On Apr 4, 7:00 am, "toad" > wrote:
> I don't like the idea of adding 3 more pieces of equipment to my
> rigging aids, but I bet that he can do it pretty quick.
>
> I use Udo's dolly and only need a safety spotter over 25 knots or so.
> I have them stand at the dolly, not at the tip.
>
> I do rotate the wing to level, if you really crank down on the wing
> clamp, then the wing doesn't move around.
>
> One note about Udo's rig, get the lateral adjustment option, it really
> improves rigging ease.
>
> Todd Smith
> 3S

The Udo dolly is a good design, but a LAK-12 wing is on the extreme
limit of what it's capable of handling stablely. The examples I've
linked to have much wider tracks and some other advantages, however,
because of that wide track you can't roll them next to the fuselage,
so they have to be considered part of an integrated system.

YMMV,

Frank Whiteley

[toad]

On Apr 4, 11:01 am, "Frank Whiteley" > wrote:
> On Apr 4, 7:00 am, "toad" > wrote:
>
> > I don't like the idea of adding 3 more pieces of equipment to my
> > rigging aids, but I bet that he can do it pretty quick.
>
> > I use Udo's dolly and only need a safety spotter over 25 knots or so.
> > I have them stand at the dolly, not at the tip.
>
> > I do rotate the wing to level, if you really crank down on the wing
> > clamp, then the wing doesn't move around.
>
> > One note about Udo's rig, get the lateral adjustment option, it really
> > improves rigging ease.
>
> > Todd Smith
> > 3S
>
> The Udo dolly is a good design, but a LAK-12 wing is on the extreme
> limit of what it's capable of handling stablely. The examples I've
> linked to have much wider tracks and some other advantages, however,
> because of that wide track you can't roll them next to the fuselage,
> so they have to be considered part of an integrated system.
>
> YMMV,
>
> Frank Whiteley

That's a good point, and the wide track would greatly add to
stability.

Todd



Toad

[Udo]

I followed this thread with interest.

A few comments in the way I use the dolly with an ASW24 and a cobra
trailer. Other gliders may need a some what different approach.

After I pull out the Fuselage from the trailer, I make sure it is
lined up with the centre line of the trailer. Reason : It give me the
same amount of manoeuvring room on both sides. I mark that tail wheel
spot, if I am assembling on that spot more then once,

I also mark the points where the spar line is by dropping a marker,
peace
of wood (painted red if you like). This is quickly and easily done by
stepping back 20ft from the fuselage and sighting the spar box
opening.

I place the dolly wheel against and behind the landing gear wheel but
not
further then 6" away from the landing wheel and leave the lateral
adjustment in the centre. In am able to get the wing and dolly wheel
clear with one move of the boom usually. If not a couple of short
shunts will clear the wheel away from the fuselage boom.

I always recommend before using the dolly the first time to adjust the
wing stand and dolly in a way that the tension or load under the wing
is such that the pin come out easily and the wing is level, (same
hight) from the ground if the ground is a bit on a slope), then mark
the position on your wing stand and on your dolly for future
reference. The idea here is to get the root spar stub into the fusebox
aligned.

As for using the dolly in windy condition it take some for thought.
In my case I move the lateral adjustment over against the wind to get
a longer moment arm before placing the wing into the saddle.

The track width of the dolly is a compromise and mostly we assemble
when the wind is not hauling. Most of the customers would like to
store the unit in the front compartment of the trailer, as I do, with
the saddle removed.
That way it is very quickly ready to use. Also all it takes is one
wing stand, thereby the equipment list is kept to a minimum.
Udo

[Eric Greenwell]

Bill Daniels wrote:
> Note that in Bob's rig, the track of the one man dolly is MUCH greater than
> those that must clear the tailboom/rudder. This makes it very hard for the
> wind to overturn it. Also note that Bob rotates the wing level almost as
> soon as the root is released from the root dolly. I've seen Bob de-rig his
> very heavy LS3 in a 40 kt wind.

Wow! I would not want to even remove my tailplane in a 40 knot wind,
much less have the wing perpendicular to the wind when it's removed from
the fuselage, even when it is flat. I don't care how wide the track is:
at 40 knots, my wing panel could easily lift off the dolly if it got
just a small angle of attack, or a gust/turbulence. I mean, it's almost
flying with the fuselage attached!
>
> I think this system is WAY safer than the "do-si-do" of walking the wing out
> past the tail especially in a high wind.

When I take the wing out of the trailer, it's parallel to the wind, so
there is very little force on it. Moving it aft until the dolly is just
past the tail doesn't change that. Once it's past the tail, the wing can
be rotated flat, which greatly reduces the effect of the wind. Then,
it's moved into position besides the fuselage.

So, the moving past the tail is the safest part; moving it perpendicular
to the fuselage and the wind is where things get riskier, and that part
of the operation sets the limit on the wind I can handle.

Fortunately, I've never had to derig in really strong winds; instead,
I've tied down the glider, or got it to hangar or a sheltered area. Two
big motorhomes nose-to-nose in front of the glider can really help!

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
* "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

[[email protected]]

One of the reasons I was interested in Chip's WingMate is it's small
size when collapsed. I have a 1985 vintage Cobra. With a wing wheel
and tow bar along with the other usual stuff there doesn't seem to be
much room left up front. The only one I've seen used is one of Udo's
carts. It seems very easy to use. I wasn't around when he derigged
and will need to see how he fits it in the trailer with the other
stuff.

I was thinking of making something that would utilize the trailer's
wing fixtures. They are rigid but are at a position where they are
over the aileron at the trailing edge. I'm wondering if the process
of rotating the wing as well as being horizontal would be too much
stress on the aileron. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks,
Bob

[toad]

On Apr 4, 11:46 pm, wrote:
> One of the reasons I was interested in Chip's WingMate is it's small
> size when collapsed. I have a 1985 vintage Cobra. With a wing wheel
> and tow bar along with the other usual stuff there doesn't seem to be
> much room left up front. The only one I've seen used is one of Udo's
> carts. It seems very easy to use. I wasn't around when he derigged
> and will need to see how he fits it in the trailer with the other
> stuff.
>
> I was thinking of making something that would utilize the trailer's
> wing fixtures. They are rigid but are at a position where they are
> over the aileron at the trailing edge. I'm wondering if the process
> of rotating the wing as well as being horizontal would be too much
> stress on the aileron. Any thoughts on that?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob

One trick that I have seen for storage is to put the wing saddle on a
wing in the trailer. That way, only the cross bar and wheels need to
fit up front.

Todd
3S

[Chip Bearden]

I was traveling on biz and missed this thread.

But all the salient points were covered. I'm not currently making the
WingMate but will eventually get back to it (i.e., when my job is less
consuming, the kids go off to college, and/or my life calms down). In
the meantime...

1. Udo's rig (and those like it) works pretty well based on what I've
seen and heard. I tried that approach but didn't like it because I
wanted something usable in the lousy fields I often pick (the WingMate
doesn't really roll so you can use it anywhere). And, at the time, I
was younger and didn't have a bad back. And I wanted to be able to
assemble in the same elapsed time as with a helper, and with equal or
better security. I found those easier to achieve once I gave up having
the wingstand carry the entire wing in a big-wheeled dolly.
2. As a result, the WingMate is NOT a "back saver"--you still must
lift the heavy end of the spar and carry it a few steps to the
fuselage. It does stabilize the wing in the vertical position so you
can carry with both hands without having to worry about it wobbling.
I've found it's easier on my back now to rig/derig using the WingMate
than with a helper for this reason. If I had a much heavier wing, I
might have to rethink my approach.
3. Wind is bad no matter what gadget you're using. I've used mine in
the 20+ kts. range but it requires a little more planning and care. If
the trailer is oriented the wrong way or it's really gusty, I'll grab
someone just to stand by the wingtip for the few seconds when the wing
is vertical (i.e., broadside to the wind). That partially defeats the
purpose of solo rigging but it's easier on my heart. There's no way
I'd attempt it at 40 kts.!
4. It's pretty easy to solo rig without expensive special wingstands.
I did it the first time using cushions and the hood of a car. Others
have used bar stools and homemade stands. Where the special equipment
comes in handy is speed (of setting up the equipment as well as
riigging the glider), safety (from dropping, from wind, from breaking
something), and the ease of storing it in the front of the trailer.
5. The WingMate works best with clamshell type trailers (Cobra, Komet)
and on 15M or longer spans. The Udo wingstand is probably more
adaptable to other combinations.

I've been solo rigging for 25 years with no plans to change and I'm
happy to respond to queries at this email address and often do. Sorry
I missed the original poster's email; it's possible AOL's spam filter
may have intercepted it. I do occasionally hear about used WingMates
for sale and have made several referrals that resulted in sales. I
nearly always have pilots asking about it so if you have one and don't
need it, let me know.

Chip Bearden
ASW 24 "JB"

[Ramy]

I have been using Chip's wingmate with my LS4 since 2000. Usually I
don't solo rig as it is a little quicker with a helper, but it is
always in my trailer when I need it on those self retreive landouts or
late landings when no one around. Never had a problem. It does not
take much place in the trailer so works perfect as a backup for me.

Ramy

On Apr 8, 10:31 am, "Chip Bearden" > wrote:
> I was traveling on biz and missed this thread.
>
> But all the salient points were covered. I'm not currently making the
> WingMate but will eventually get back to it (i.e., when my job is less
> consuming, the kids go off to college, and/or my life calms down). In
> the meantime...
>
> 1. Udo's rig (and those like it) works pretty well based on what I've
> seen and heard. I tried that approach but didn't like it because I
> wanted something usable in the lousy fields I often pick (the WingMate
> doesn't really roll so you can use it anywhere). And, at the time, I
> was younger and didn't have a bad back. And I wanted to be able to
> assemble in the same elapsed time as with a helper, and with equal or
> better security. I found those easier to achieve once I gave up having
> the wingstand carry the entire wing in a big-wheeled dolly.
> 2. As a result, the WingMate is NOT a "back saver"--you still must
> lift the heavy end of the spar and carry it a few steps to the
> fuselage. It does stabilize the wing in the vertical position so you
> can carry with both hands without having to worry about it wobbling.
> I've found it's easier on my back now to rig/derig using the WingMate
> than with a helper for this reason. If I had a much heavier wing, I
> might have to rethink my approach.
> 3. Wind is bad no matter what gadget you're using. I've used mine in
> the 20+ kts. range but it requires a little more planning and care. If
> the trailer is oriented the wrong way or it's really gusty, I'll grab
> someone just to stand by the wingtip for the few seconds when the wing
> is vertical (i.e., broadside to the wind). That partially defeats the
> purpose of solo rigging but it's easier on my heart. There's no way
> I'd attempt it at 40 kts.!
> 4. It's pretty easy to solo rig without expensive special wingstands.
> I did it the first time using cushions and the hood of a car. Others
> have used bar stools and homemade stands. Where the special equipment
> comes in handy is speed (of setting up the equipment as well as
> riigging the glider), safety (from dropping, from wind, from breaking
> something), and the ease of storing it in the front of the trailer.
> 5. The WingMate works best with clamshell type trailers (Cobra, Komet)
> and on 15M or longer spans. The Udo wingstand is probably more
> adaptable to other combinations.
>
> I've been solo rigging for 25 years with no plans to change and I'm
> happy to respond to queries at this email address and often do. Sorry
> I missed the original poster's email; it's possible AOL's spam filter
> may have intercepted it. I do occasionally hear about used WingMates
> for sale and have made several referrals that resulted in sales. I
> nearly always have pilots asking about it so if you have one and don't
> need it, let me know.
>
> Chip Bearden
> ASW 24 "JB"