WAS: Laminating an Aileron Spar NOW: how much wood should I leave at narrowist point?

[Michael Horowitz]

Although I only have to add 1/4" to the edge of my spar to allow me to
cut a bevel, if I use that minimum, when I cut the bevel, I will leave
only the thinist piece of wood covering the joint. That strikes me as
not good, so I'm thinking after the bevel I need a substantial
thickness at the narrowist part.
Anyone have a feeling for how much wood should be left after the bevel
is cut? 1/8"? - Mike

[Morgans[_2_]]

"Michael Horowitz" > wrote

> Although I only have to add 1/4" to the edge of my spar to allow me to
> cut a bevel, if I use that minimum, when I cut the bevel, I will leave
> only the thinist piece of wood covering the joint. That strikes me as
> not good, so I'm thinking after the bevel I need a substantial
> thickness at the narrowist part.
> Anyone have a feeling for how much wood should be left after the bevel
> is cut? 1/8"? - Mike

Don't worry about how thin the piece is. The glue is stronger than the
wood, remember?

Pay attention to the run of the grain. You do not want any grain rising
quickly to the surface, especially on a thin piece.

What I would definitely NOT do, is cut the spar thinner, just so you can
have a thicker edge on your added bevel piece. Keep all of that spar
strength that there is, in one piece. You may need it someday. <g>
--
Jim in NC