Tost brake bolt shears off

[Jack Glendening[_2_]]

I am wondering if others have experienced the shearing of a Tost brake
bolt resulting in brake failure - I'm speaking about the bolt which
extends from the hub and is secured to the aircraft frame (not
the bolt which extends for the wire lever attachment). I experienced
such a failure on my latest landing with a month-old Tost unit - I was
puliing more strongly than usual on the brake but not nearly as hard
as I could, and certainly not as hard as I would if it had been an
emergency situation. I was amazed that such could produce a bolt
shear - I would have thought that some other brake part would fail
before such a
relatively thick bolt would, but I am no mechanic. It makes me wonder
about the quality of the parts Tost is using. Is this a known/common
point of failure?

Jack Glendening

[[email protected]]

On Sep 1, 6:40 am, Jack Glendening > wrote:
> I am wondering if others have experienced the shearing of a Tost brake
> bolt resulting in brake failure - I'm speaking about the bolt which
> extends from the hub and is secured to the aircraft frame (not
> the bolt which extends for the wire lever attachment). I experienced
> such a failure on my latest landing with a month-old Tost unit - I was
> puliing more strongly than usual on the brake but not nearly as hard
> as I could, and certainly not as hard as I would if it had been an
> emergency situation. I was amazed that such could produce a bolt
> shear - I would have thought that some other brake part would fail
> before such a
> relatively thick bolt would, but I am no mechanic. It makes me wonder
> about the quality of the parts Tost is using. Is this a known/common
> point of failure?
>
> Jack Glendening


I had not heard of that before. Is it possible someone substituted a
hardware quality bolt? Is it a disk brake or mechanical? The Tost disk
brakes used by DG are re-branded Cleveland parts available from
Aircraft spruce. Tost just changes the internal O-ring to make it
compatible with brake fluid. The Cleveland O-ring is for use with
hydraulic oil.

[Jack Glendening[_2_]]

The head of the bolt I am talking holds the brake pad plates inside
the
brake hub with its thread end extending outside the hub for
attachment
to the aircraft frame. So it is an integral part of the brake
assembly as
it comes from Tost and I can't imagine anyone substituting for it. It
is
_not_ a single bolt simply used for attachment. Jack

[[email protected]]

On Sep 1, 8:50 am, Jack Glendening > wrote:
> The head of the bolt I am talking holds the brake pad plates inside
> the
> brake hub with its thread end extending outside the hub for
> attachment
> to the aircraft frame. So it is an integral part of the brake
> assembly as
> it comes from Tost and I can't imagine anyone substituting for it. It
> is
> _not_ a single bolt simply used for attachment. Jack

The same thing happen to a DG 400 in HI 2 mo ago

Tom

[Tim Mara]

what kind of glider was this on? This would seem very unusual as literally
thousands of these wheels are in use on almost all glider types.
it would help to know this
tim

Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at www.wingsandwheels.com

"Jack Glendening" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>I am wondering if others have experienced the shearing of a Tost brake
> bolt resulting in brake failure - I'm speaking about the bolt which
> extends from the hub and is secured to the aircraft frame (not
> the bolt which extends for the wire lever attachment). I experienced
> such a failure on my latest landing with a month-old Tost unit - I was
> puliing more strongly than usual on the brake but not nearly as hard
> as I could, and certainly not as hard as I would if it had been an
> emergency situation. I was amazed that such could produce a bolt
> shear - I would have thought that some other brake part would fail
> before such a
> relatively thick bolt would, but I am no mechanic. It makes me wonder
> about the quality of the parts Tost is using. Is this a known/common
> point of failure?
>
> Jack Glendening
>

[Jack Glendening]

Tim Mara wrote:
> what kind of glider was this on?

This is a also a DG400. (the Tost assembly was purchased from W&W.) Jack

[[email protected]]

On Sep 1, 8:40 am, Jack Glendening > wrote:
> I am wondering if others have experienced the shearing of a Tost brake
> bolt resulting in brake failure - I'm speaking about the bolt which
> extends from the hub and is secured to the aircraft frame (not
> the bolt which extends for the wire lever attachment). I experienced
> such a failure on my latest landing with a month-old Tost unit - I was
> puliing more strongly than usual on the brake but not nearly as hard
> as I could, and certainly not as hard as I would if it had been an
> emergency situation. I was amazed that such could produce a bolt
> shear - I would have thought that some other brake part would fail
> before such a
> relatively thick bolt would, but I am no mechanic. It makes me wonder
> about the quality of the parts Tost is using. Is this a known/common
> point of failure?
>
> Jack Glendening

Hi Jack - I believe you are talking about a 4.50 tire mechanical
(ie non-hydraulic) Tost brake? The wonder is not that the bolt
sheared, rather that your brake shoes (actually, the one shoe
doing any work) generated enough force to shear the thing.
I don't think this is a common point of failure (though another
post here recounts another incident). For these brake
assemblies modified to servo-actuate, the torque load
is carried through the cast aluminum hub from the cam
to this bolt, and the cast hub has been known to fail...

Make sure that the end of the bolt isn't sloppy where it
attaches to the gear fork, which maybe could provoke
a failure, replace the bolt, and never point the plane at
anything valuable whilst expecting this brake to stop it...

Hope this helps,
Best Regards, Dave "YO" ("Miss August")

[John Sinclair]

Jack,
I believe you are describing the *anti-rotation* bolt
and I have seen them shear off when the hub was improperly
installed. This bolt must be mated with its receptical
on the side of the landing gear or the hub will spin
when brakes are applied, resulting in the hub spinning
almost 360 degrees before hitting the landing gear
with sufficient force to shear off the bolt.

This bolt must be mated before installing the axle
when re-installing the wheel. While we're talking about
wheels and tires, if after changing the tire, the axle
doesn't slide easily through the hub, you have probably
*pinched* the tube in between the hub halves.
JJ


At 00:48 03 September 2007, wrote:
>On Sep 1, 8:40 am, Jack Glendening wrote:
>> I am wondering if others have experienced the shearing
>>of a Tost brake
>> bolt resulting in brake failure - I'm speaking about
>>the bolt which
>> extends from the hub and is secured to the aircraft
>>frame (not
>> the bolt which extends for the wire lever attachment).
>> I experienced
>> such a failure on my latest landing with a month-old
>>Tost unit - I was
>> puliing more strongly than usual on the brake but
>>not nearly as hard
>> as I could, and certainly not as hard as I would if
>>it had been an
>> emergency situation. I was amazed that such could
>>produce a bolt
>> shear - I would have thought that some other brake
>>part would fail
>> before such a
>> relatively thick bolt would, but I am no mechanic.
>> It makes me wonder
>> about the quality of the parts Tost is using. Is
>>this a known/common
>> point of failure?
>>
>> Jack Glendening
>
>Hi Jack - I believe you are talking about a 4.50 tire
>mechanical
>(ie non-hydraulic) Tost brake? The wonder is not that
>the bolt
>sheared, rather that your brake shoes (actually, the
>one shoe
>doing any work) generated enough force to shear the
>thing.
>I don't think this is a common point of failure (though
>another
>post here recounts another incident). For these brake
>assemblies modified to servo-actuate, the torque load
>is carried through the cast aluminum hub from the cam
>to this bolt, and the cast hub has been known to fail...
>
>Make sure that the end of the bolt isn't sloppy where
>it
>attaches to the gear fork, which maybe could provoke
>a failure, replace the bolt, and never point the plane
>at
>anything valuable whilst expecting this brake to stop
>it...
>
>Hope this helps,
>Best Regards, Dave 'YO' ('Miss August')
>
>

[Tim Mara]

it would be most unusual that enough force could be supplied to shear the
anchor bolt unless it was not the proper anchor bolt ....
please send images of the wheel and bolt to myself and also to TOST

tim
Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at www.wingsandwheels.com



"Jack Glendening" > wrote in message
...
> Tim Mara wrote:
>> what kind of glider was this on?
>
> This is a also a DG400. (the Tost assembly was purchased from W&W.)
> Jack

[Jack Glendening]

Responding to several replies at once, yes this is the "anti-rotation"
nut on a mechanical Tost brake. Whether there should be any "wonder"
about the bolt failing depends a lot on how hard I was pulling on the
brake. While I braked harder than I normally do, it was with a
pressure I felt comfortable with and I was surprised that the brake
would break under those circumstances. I know I have on occasion
pulled harder on the brake in other gliders. And the failure did
_not_ occur at the time of maximum pull, so I guess some details of
this particular incident are in order.

The landing was on a old WW2 base with wide and long runways. I
misjudged my approach and landed faster than usual and beyond the
runway start markers where I normally touch down. I normally turn off
at the first turnoff (760 feet beyond the runway start) but did not
know if I could do that this time. So I pulled as hard as I felt
comfortable doing to see what would happen, intending that if I could
not get stopped by the first taxiway I would go to next one 300 ft
further down. But I did get slowed down enough to take the first
taxiway. I actually released pressure on the brake as I went into the
turn because I wanted to be sure of having enough speed to get to the
runway incursion markers on the taxiway (the turn is more than 90
degrees). After the turn was completed I could see I had more than
sufficient speed and tried to again pull on the brake but found no
response. So I think the bolt sheared during or just after the turn.
I found myself looking at the spinning prop of a facing airplane on
the same taxiway, just beyond a crossing (runway-paralleling) taxiway,
and thought "I'm going to have to do something drastic if this thing
does not stop before I get to that crossing taxiway!" Thankfully I had
correctly judged the speed needed prior to the turn and with full
spoilers I did stop about 20 feet beyond the runway incursion markers,
just before reaching the cross taxiway.

So possibly the additional side forces during the turn did something.
Another possibility is that heating of the brake by the heavy braking
prior to that point helped cause the bolt to fail. It has been
suggested by a private email that the bolt tempering may have been
faulty. FWIW the brake was newly installed by an aircraft mechanic
(not me) but one who has limited experience with gliders. I will plan
on taking some pictures the next time I visit the plane. All I know
at this point is that there is a nut on that bolt at the brake case
(as a spacer?) and the shearing occurred just outside that nut. I
assume that the missing bolt part was attached to the plate extending
from the fuselage for that purpose. I had had about 10 successful
landings since brake installation, but all with minimal braking.

My reason for bringing this failure to this forum was because I was so
surprised by the bolt breakage given the amount of force I applied, a
force I did not feel was undue based on my past experience with Tost
brakes, so was looking for comments by those who might have
knowledge/experience that I do not. I would be more understanding
about a bolt breaking if I felt I had pulled extremely hard. I really
believe that the force I applied was not unreasonable.

I would like to think my braking capability is limited only
by pad friction, not by the strength of some bolt or other part of the
brake! Certainly for my car that is the case - my car's braking is
not limited by part of my brake assembly failing. I certainly hope my
ailerons/rudders are that way - I don't want to think that if I yank
too hard on the stick my ailerons/rudder might break off ! If there
is some amount of pull beyond which a brake part will break, one will
never know just where that point is until a pull actually does go
beyond that point and the brake then breaks - so one never knows
exactly how much stopping power one has until after he's broken the
brake once.

Jack

[John Smith]

Jack Glendening wrote:

> at this point is that there is a nut on that bolt at the brake case
> (as a spacer?) and the shearing occurred just outside that nut.

I don't have a tost wheel in front of me right now, but I'm certain that
there is *no* nut on that bolt as a *spacer* (maybe a washer, I can't
remember). There is a nut on that bolt outside the "receptical" to
secure that bolt. So if your mechanic installed that bolt inside that
"receptical" (e.g. as a spacer), it's pretty clear that the bolt would
slip out, the plate would rotate and that bolt would eventually be
sheared off.

Just a guess based on your description, I may have understood you
completely wrong.

[Jack Glendening]

John Smith wrote:
> Just a guess based on your description, I may have understood you
> completely wrong.

To clarify, immediately next to the shear is a thin bolt (shiny, new
looking), then the large drum case - i.e. the bolt is outside the
case. I have since learned from Tom Stowers that the nut is standard,
so my guess that it might be a spacer was wrong (I was thrown off by
my inspection of the _old_ brake parts, given to me after the new
installation, which does not have any such nut outside the hub, so I
incorrectly guessed that perhaps the bolt threaded into the hub itself -
for whatever reason that old nut was not included with the old parts.)

Jack

[Mike Schumann]

"never point the plane at anything valuable whilst expecting this brake to
stop it..."??????????

Brakes need to work reliably. If there is more than one incident of this
type, there needs to be a service bulletin or AD issued to fix the problem.

Mike Schumann

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> On Sep 1, 8:40 am, Jack Glendening > wrote:
>> I am wondering if others have experienced the shearing of a Tost brake
>> bolt resulting in brake failure - I'm speaking about the bolt which
>> extends from the hub and is secured to the aircraft frame (not
>> the bolt which extends for the wire lever attachment). I experienced
>> such a failure on my latest landing with a month-old Tost unit - I was
>> puliing more strongly than usual on the brake but not nearly as hard
>> as I could, and certainly not as hard as I would if it had been an
>> emergency situation. I was amazed that such could produce a bolt
>> shear - I would have thought that some other brake part would fail
>> before such a
>> relatively thick bolt would, but I am no mechanic. It makes me wonder
>> about the quality of the parts Tost is using. Is this a known/common
>> point of failure?
>>
>> Jack Glendening
>
> Hi Jack - I believe you are talking about a 4.50 tire mechanical
> (ie non-hydraulic) Tost brake? The wonder is not that the bolt
> sheared, rather that your brake shoes (actually, the one shoe
> doing any work) generated enough force to shear the thing.
> I don't think this is a common point of failure (though another
> post here recounts another incident). For these brake
> assemblies modified to servo-actuate, the torque load
> is carried through the cast aluminum hub from the cam
> to this bolt, and the cast hub has been known to fail...
>
> Make sure that the end of the bolt isn't sloppy where it
> attaches to the gear fork, which maybe could provoke
> a failure, replace the bolt, and never point the plane at
> anything valuable whilst expecting this brake to stop it...
>
> Hope this helps,
> Best Regards, Dave "YO" ("Miss August")
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

[John Smith]

Jack Glendening wrote:

> To clarify, immediately next to the shear is a thin bolt (shiny, new
> looking), then the large drum case - i.e. the bolt is outside the
....

I fear that without a picture I won't understand what you're talking about.

[Bruce]

Anyone who relies on the ineffectual brake fitted to most older gliders is an
optimist of note.

On the 4.00 X 4 hub common to these aircraft you have a couple of square
centimetres of friction material, with non energising shoes trying to stop
around 300 - 350kg of glider moving at anything up to 100km/h. Most are good for
one retardation only, at best, then they fade severely.

In my experience, with a lot of fettling work one can achieve a brake that is
reliably weak - which is a whole lot better than the alternative. But experience
indicates that one should still discount it ever working effectively in an
emergency.

You would be distressed to see how much damage you can cause at walking speed
with a 15m single seater. Just think what a 26m+ motorised uber bug smasher
could do with all it's inertia. (although they tend to have halfway decent disk
brakes these days)

In any case the man has it right - Don't point your glider at anything you
intend to keep, especially on a downhill. There is no need to provoke Murphy.

Mike Schumann wrote:
> "never point the plane at anything valuable whilst expecting this brake to
> stop it..."??????????
> <snip>

[Chris Reed[_1_]]

My open Cirrus (1968, probably 400kg with me on board) has the 400 x 4
wheel and Tost brake.

The main purpose of the brake is to stop the glider overrunning the
aerotow rope in the Up slack/All out transition.

It also makes a scraping noise if I use it after landing.

I've never yet met a reliable glider wheel brake. I suspect the worst
kind are those which work *almost* all the time (K21 comes to mind)
because then you might get into the habit of pointing the glider at
expensive objects!

Bruce wrote:
> Anyone who relies on the ineffectual brake fitted to most older gliders
> is an optimist of note.
>
> On the 4.00 X 4 hub common to these aircraft you have a couple of square
> centimetres of friction material, with non energising shoes trying to
> stop around 300 - 350kg of glider moving at anything up to 100km/h. Most
> are good for one retardation only, at best, then they fade severely.
>
> In my experience, with a lot of fettling work one can achieve a brake
> that is reliably weak - which is a whole lot better than the
> alternative. But experience indicates that one should still discount it
> ever working effectively in an emergency.
>
> You would be distressed to see how much damage you can cause at walking
> speed with a 15m single seater. Just think what a 26m+ motorised uber
> bug smasher could do with all it's inertia. (although they tend to have
> halfway decent disk brakes these days)
>
> In any case the man has it right - Don't point your glider at anything
> you intend to keep, especially on a downhill. There is no need to
> provoke Murphy.
>
> Mike Schumann wrote:
>> "never point the plane at anything valuable whilst expecting this
>> brake to stop it..."??????????
>> <snip>

[01-- Zero One]

I agree, would someone please post a picture of this.



Thanks,



Larry

"zero one"

"John Smith" > wrote in message
:

> Jack Glendening wrote:
>
> > To clarify, immediately next to the shear is a thin bolt (shiny, new
> > looking), then the large drum case - i.e. the bolt is outside the
> ...
>
> I fear that without a picture I won't understand what you're talking about.

[Bob Backer]

I must say that I almost agree. I have had 4 gliders. My Astir CS had
a tost brake that was bad. My ASW17 had a tost brake that was a bad joke
considering the mass of the 17. My ASW22 had a disc brake that worked
pretty well after bleeding but it just did not like to stay bled.
Amazingly, the tost drum brake on my Ventus C works like a champ. I can
put the glider on its nose if I want.

Chris Reed wrote:
> My open Cirrus (1968, probably 400kg with me on board) has the 400 x 4
> wheel and Tost brake.
>
> The main purpose of the brake is to stop the glider overrunning the
> aerotow rope in the Up slack/All out transition.
>
> It also makes a scraping noise if I use it after landing.
>
> I've never yet met a reliable glider wheel brake. I suspect the worst
> kind are those which work *almost* all the time (K21 comes to mind)
> because then you might get into the habit of pointing the glider at
> expensive objects!
>
> Bruce wrote:
>> Anyone who relies on the ineffectual brake fitted to most older
>> gliders is an optimist of note.
>>
>> On the 4.00 X 4 hub common to these aircraft you have a couple of
>> square centimetres of friction material, with non energising shoes
>> trying to stop around 300 - 350kg of glider moving at anything up to
>> 100km/h. Most are good for one retardation only, at best, then they
>> fade severely.
>>
>> In my experience, with a lot of fettling work one can achieve a brake
>> that is reliably weak - which is a whole lot better than the
>> alternative. But experience indicates that one should still discount
>> it ever working effectively in an emergency.
>>
>> You would be distressed to see how much damage you can cause at
>> walking speed with a 15m single seater. Just think what a 26m+
>> motorised uber bug smasher could do with all it's inertia. (although
>> they tend to have halfway decent disk brakes these days)
>>
>> In any case the man has it right - Don't point your glider at anything
>> you intend to keep, especially on a downhill. There is no need to
>> provoke Murphy.
>>
>> Mike Schumann wrote:
>>> "never point the plane at anything valuable whilst expecting this
>>> brake to stop it..."??????????
>>> <snip>

[Bill Daniels]

I had my Nimbus drum brake reworked by Vintage Brake and, so far, it stops
the glider fine. However, I had a brake cable fail four flights ago. After
coasting to a stop I crawled under the wing with close-up glasses and found
a frayed cable end with the swaged thingie missing.

As a stopgap, since the Salida camp was coming up, I swaged another end on
the frayed cable and it works OK - so far. I searched for replacement cable
parts and found them at a motorcycle rebuilding shop. I'll need to braze
on a cable termination for the stick brake grip and swage on a solid ball at
the brake lever but it should be an easy project.

Lesson: There's lots of ways for a brake to fail. "Don't aim at anything you
want to keep".

Bill Daniels


"Bob Backer" > wrote in message
...
>I must say that I almost agree. I have had 4 gliders. My Astir CS had a
>tost brake that was bad. My ASW17 had a tost brake that was a bad joke
>considering the mass of the 17. My ASW22 had a disc brake that worked
>pretty well after bleeding but it just did not like to stay bled.
>Amazingly, the tost drum brake on my Ventus C works like a champ. I can
> put the glider on its nose if I want.
>
> Chris Reed wrote:
>> My open Cirrus (1968, probably 400kg with me on board) has the 400 x 4
>> wheel and Tost brake.
>>
>> The main purpose of the brake is to stop the glider overrunning the
>> aerotow rope in the Up slack/All out transition.
>>
>> It also makes a scraping noise if I use it after landing.
>>
>> I've never yet met a reliable glider wheel brake. I suspect the worst
>> kind are those which work *almost* all the time (K21 comes to mind)
>> because then you might get into the habit of pointing the glider at
>> expensive objects!
>>
>> Bruce wrote:
>>> Anyone who relies on the ineffectual brake fitted to most older gliders
>>> is an optimist of note.
>>>
>>> On the 4.00 X 4 hub common to these aircraft you have a couple of square
>>> centimetres of friction material, with non energising shoes trying to
>>> stop around 300 - 350kg of glider moving at anything up to 100km/h. Most
>>> are good for one retardation only, at best, then they fade severely.
>>>
>>> In my experience, with a lot of fettling work one can achieve a brake
>>> that is reliably weak - which is a whole lot better than the
>>> alternative. But experience indicates that one should still discount it
>>> ever working effectively in an emergency.
>>>
>>> You would be distressed to see how much damage you can cause at walking
>>> speed with a 15m single seater. Just think what a 26m+ motorised uber
>>> bug smasher could do with all it's inertia. (although they tend to have
>>> halfway decent disk brakes these days)
>>>
>>> In any case the man has it right - Don't point your glider at anything
>>> you intend to keep, especially on a downhill. There is no need to
>>> provoke Murphy.
>>>
>>> Mike Schumann wrote:
>>>> "never point the plane at anything valuable whilst expecting this brake
>>>> to stop it..."??????????
>>>> <snip>

[Vaughn Simon]

"Bob Backer" > wrote in message
...
>I must say that I almost agree. I have had 4 gliders. My Astir CS had a tost
>brake that was bad. My ASW17 had a tost brake that was a bad joke considering
>the mass of the 17. My ASW22 had a disc brake that worked pretty well after
>bleeding but it just did not like to stay bled.

Hah! Finally we have found something that the 2-33 does well. Every one I
have ever flown would stop on a dime.

Vaughn

[Mike Schumann]

Ineffective brakes is one thing. Brakes where bolts shear off during normal
use is a completely different category.

Mike Schumann

"Bruce" > wrote in message
...
> Anyone who relies on the ineffectual brake fitted to most older gliders is
> an optimist of note.
>
> On the 4.00 X 4 hub common to these aircraft you have a couple of square
> centimetres of friction material, with non energising shoes trying to stop
> around 300 - 350kg of glider moving at anything up to 100km/h. Most are
> good for one retardation only, at best, then they fade severely.
>
> In my experience, with a lot of fettling work one can achieve a brake that
> is reliably weak - which is a whole lot better than the alternative. But
> experience indicates that one should still discount it ever working
> effectively in an emergency.
>
> You would be distressed to see how much damage you can cause at walking
> speed with a 15m single seater. Just think what a 26m+ motorised uber bug
> smasher could do with all it's inertia. (although they tend to have
> halfway decent disk brakes these days)
>
> In any case the man has it right - Don't point your glider at anything you
> intend to keep, especially on a downhill. There is no need to provoke
> Murphy.
>
> Mike Schumann wrote:
>> "never point the plane at anything valuable whilst expecting this brake
>> to stop it..."??????????
>> <snip>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

[Eric Greenwell]

Chris Reed wrote:

> I've never yet met a reliable glider wheel brake.

You should meet a glider with a Cleveland wheel and brake, like those
used on Schleicher gliders from the ASW 20 B/C and later. These are the
same brakes used on thousands of airplanes, and they are effective and
reliable.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
* "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

[Martin Gregorie[_1_]]

Eric Greenwell wrote:
> Chris Reed wrote:
>
>> I've never yet met a reliable glider wheel brake.
>
> You should meet a glider with a Cleveland wheel and brake, like those
> used on Schleicher gliders from the ASW 20 B/C and later. These are the
> same brakes used on thousands of airplanes, and they are effective and
> reliable.
>
They're approved refits on some gliders in some countries: our (UK)
club's Puchacz was retro fitted with a Cleveland and now stops reliably
and the Williams SZD Junior also has a Cleveland brake and also stops.
This is something Juniors are not noted for with the standard brake.

Another advantage is the ease of brake adjustment.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

[Bruce]

Hi Eric - I have - but not one that fits a 4.00 by 4 ? If you know how there are
many who would benefit.

Bruce

Eric Greenwell wrote:
> Chris Reed wrote:
>
>> I've never yet met a reliable glider wheel brake.
>
> You should meet a glider with a Cleveland wheel and brake, like those
> used on Schleicher gliders from the ASW 20 B/C and later. These are the
> same brakes used on thousands of airplanes, and they are effective and
> reliable.
>

[mattm]

Anyone what the hydraulic disk brake system on the HpH 304C is? I had
trouble with one this past weekend -- right after having a shop
replace the inner tube. The owner's manual doesn't lend any light on
the issue.

[Tim Mara]

304CZ hydraulic disk brake is TOST system as pictured on my website
sounds to me like maybe your mechanic made a boo-boo

tim
Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at www.wingsandwheels.com


"mattm" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> Anyone what the hydraulic disk brake system on the HpH 304C is? I had
> trouble with one this past weekend -- right after having a shop
> replace the inner tube. The owner's manual doesn't lend any light on
> the issue.
>