Getting a handle on the tail dolly

[Tuno]

The tail dolly for my new WalletWhomper II came without a handle on
top. I want to add one. I am betting that drilling holes and using
flathead machine screws from inside will still endanger the fuse
boom.

Any hot tips? (Besides "If you have to ask, don't do it.")

2NO

[[email protected]]

On Apr 25, 9:27*am, Tuno > wrote:
> The tail dolly for my new WalletWhomper II came without a handle on
> top. I want to add one. I am betting that drilling holes and using
> flathead machine screws from inside will still endanger the fuse
> boom.
>
> Any hot tips? (Besides "If you have to ask, don't do it.")
>
> 2NO

Yeah, screws would probably be a bad thing. Fiberglass cloth and
Polyester Resin*(adequate for dollies) are usually readily available
and reasonably cheap. Cut/carve/sand a wooden handle to fit. Remove
the paint from the dolly for a couple inches around where the handle
will join it. Glue the handle to the dolly with some 5 minute epoxy
(so you won't have to chase it around while trying to get glass on).
After it sets, cut fiberglass to form a fillet joining the handle to
the dolly. I would want no fewer than 3 layers, ( more, time
permitting). Apply resin and cloth. Don't worry about the stray
strands the will inevitably end up sticking out. They're easy to sand
off.
One trick for getting the cloth to stay where you want it (IN NON
CRITICAL APPLICATIONS) is to dust the cut pieces of cloth with 3M 77
spray adhesive, wait a couple minutes, then rub them into place. The
resin will usually wet out a couple layers easily. The resin at least
partially dissolves the cement though, so 'working' it too much will
have the pieces sliding around.


* However, if you have epoxy resin handy, the working time is vastly
longer, it's mechanically stronger, and you can clean up with white
vinegar.

[sisu1a]

On Apr 25, 9:27 am, Tuno > wrote:
> The tail dolly for my new WalletWhomper II came without a handle on
> top. I want to add one. I am betting that drilling holes and using
> flathead machine screws from inside will still endanger the fuse
> boom.
>
> Any hot tips? (Besides "If you have to ask, don't do it.")
>
> 2NO

Another solution is to use T nuts, or rather Weld Nuts, mounted on the
inside of course, (you have to peal the padding back from that area),
and a quick solution to make it even more load-worthy would be to
epoxy a rectangle of .050 aluminum sheet (it will easily conform to
the contour) before drilling the holes, then use the weld nuts fed
from the inside. I am doing the same operation on my dolly right now,
but my ship being an SZD-59 the dolly is rather interesting were a
handle would mount (strake at base of vertical...). I am going to use
a cast aluminum oval x-section handle form McMaster Carr that is made
to through-bolt from the top, making it ideal to use with 1/4-20
weldnuts (after reeming the .250" holes to .315" or so... http://www.mcmaster.com/
, pg 2925, pull handle style 21, pick your own size) . Naturally ake
sure your cap screws are short enough not to protrude. This particular
handle feels very comfortable in the hand (I have the same type on my
Sisu trailer tongue) pulling/pushing all directions, and stays
surprizingly cool even after sitting in direct sunlight. Just a
suggestion, there are a million ways to go about this one.

Paul

[JJ Sinclair]

I have pealed the felt back and pop-riveted on a handle with the rivet
head on the inside and a washer on the outside, using 1/8" aluminum
rivets. Then contact cement the felt back in place. Worked for me.
JJ

Tuno wrote:
> The tail dolly for my new WalletWhomper II came without a handle on
> top. I want to add one. I am betting that drilling holes and using
> flathead machine screws from inside will still endanger the fuse
> boom.
>
> Any hot tips? (Besides "If you have to ask, don't do it.")
>
> 2NO

[[email protected]]

On Apr 25, 12:45*pm, JJ Sinclair > wrote:
> I have pealed the felt back and pop-riveted on a handle with the rivet
> head on the inside and a washer on the outside, using 1/8" aluminum
> rivets. Then contact cement the felt back in place. Worked for me.
> JJ
>
>
>
> Tuno wrote:
> > The tail dolly for my new WalletWhomper II came without a handle on
> > top. I want to add one. I am betting that drilling holes and using
> > flathead machine screws from inside will still endanger the fuse
> > boom.
>
> > Any hot tips? (Besides "If you have to ask, don't do it.")
>
> > 2NO- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Now see, that's why JJ's a professional. Simple, quick and effective.
Disregard my earlier reply!

[Gary Emerson]

Tuno wrote:
> The tail dolly for my new WalletWhomper II came without a handle on
> top. I want to add one. I am betting that drilling holes and using
> flathead machine screws from inside will still endanger the fuse
> boom.
>
> Any hot tips? (Besides "If you have to ask, don't do it.")
>
> 2NO
>


I bought from SH a dolly "shell" since the shell itself was WAY less
expensive than the complete dolly.

I'd recommend you peel back the padding and invest in a decent
countersink. Match drill the holes and install flat head screws AFTER
you countersink the inside of the dolly so that the head of the screw is
flush with the inside surface. Then use some contact cement and put the
felt back in place.

Gary

[Tuno]

I like simple and effective, and I have all the tools and materials
necessary!

Thanks JJ!!!

[brianDG303]

I did this mod. last year. I went to a good hardware store and bought
a concrete float, used for smoothing out concrete. It is a very hefty
handle with a metal plate attached to it with screws, the plate is
countersunk so that the screws don't contact the concrete. I pulled
the padding away, managed to bend the metal plate into the curve of
the dolly, screwed it all back together, and used 3M HS-90 spray
adhesive to glue the felt back on. I wanted the plate so the screws
wouldn't pull through the fiberglass. Very simple, cheap, looks really
good.