Is it ever just "plug and play"?

[John Bojack[_2_]]

Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights working
correctly? Anyone with a success story ?

Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle.

Thanks!

J4

[Darryl Ramm]

On Nov 30, 9:32*pm, "John Bojack" > wrote:
> Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
> can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights working
> correctly? * Anyone with a success story ?
>
> Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle.
>
> Thanks!
>
> J4

I doubt it will be plug and play, you can thank the crazy combined
brake/turn signal lights used in the USA. I assume you mean both are
wired with a US 7-way RV plug (Europe uses a very different "large
plug"). I still had to change a few wires around when I picked mine up
(factory wired with a 7-way RV plug). I expect you have to change
wires to bulbs in the tail light assembly and maybe at the trailer
connection as well. It was easier to just work it out than try to have
people say what needed to me moved where. Print out this page
http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm and take it with you. You should
only need a few standard screwdrivers and worse case a pair of needle
nosed pliers to help persuade any (Faston) blade connectors on or off.
The worse thing with my trailer was they had cut the cable to the tow
vehicle really short and it would barely reach to the (offset) 7-way
RV socket on my SUV. I ended up pulling out some lengths of the
internal wiring and stretching it to give just enough cable out front.

I also like to carry several alligator and similar clips on reasonably
long cables. With the right ones it makes debugging these sorts of
things very easy. Just use the clip leads to steal 12V DC or a
flashing turn signal from the tow vehicle socket and clip to all the
trailer leads in turn and go look at which ones tail lights flash etc.
and use this to draw a quick circuit diagram.

Talk to your dealer, they should have the best info, I believe some
dealers and/or the glider manufactures ask the factory to do slightly
different things.

Darryl

[Tony Condon]

good luck with that. ive come to the conclusion that a total trailer
re-wiring starting from an unknowns state should be added to the private
pilot PTS, or at least the bronze badge requirements. ive gotten
amazingly good at diagnosing lighting problems and fixing them. you'd
think i was an electrician.


At 05:32 01 December 2008, John Bojack wrote:
>Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I

>can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights
>working
>correctly? Anyone with a success story ?
>
>Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle.
>
>Thanks!
>
>J4
>
>
>



-Tony Condon
Cherokee II N373Y

[Andy[_1_]]

On Nov 30, 10:32*pm, "John Bojack" > wrote:
> Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
> can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights working
> correctly? * Anyone with a success story ?

When I took delivery of my 28 with Cobra I was provided with
instructions for a minor wiring change. I've heard others have
avoided the wiring change by rotating the trailer rear lamp lenses 180
degrees.

The US idea that it's safe or appropriate to combine brake and turn
signals is insane.


Andy

[HL Falbaum[_2_]]

"John Bojack" > wrote in message
...
> Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
> can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights
> working correctly? Anyone with a success story ?
>
> Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle.
>
> Thanks!
>
> J4
Maybe--but mine wasn't.

I had the wiring digram from the Cobra (Spindlebarger) website, expecting to
make a Euro-to-7 blade RV pigtail.

The trailer came with a 7 Blade RV connector, and everything checked out
except that that the turn signals were reversed! (i.e. left turn on car --->
right turn on trailer) Customs security encouraged us to vacate the premises
ASAP--So I pulled into the nearest parking lot outside the gate and fixed
it--about a 2 minute job.

Hartley Falbaum USA "KF"

[TonyV]

> The US idea that it's safe or appropriate to combine brake and turn
> signals is insane.


Nah, just stupid.

Tony V.

[[email protected]]

> "John Bojack" > wrote in message
>
> ...> Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
> > can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights
> > working correctly? * Anyone with a success story ?
>
> > Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle..
>
> > Thanks!
>
> > J4

Here is a table I made for myself in case my wires ever came undone
(note to self: make sure the lights are unplugged before pulling away
from the trailer).

Function Trailer plug/wire US plug/wire

R Turn 4-R Green 6 Brown
R Running 5-58R Brown 3 Green
Brake 6-54 Red 2 Blue (electric brake)
L Turn 1-L Yellow 5 Red
Fog 2-54g Blue 7 Center
GND 3-31 White 1 White
L Running 7-58L Black 3 Green

Here is a link to a European trailer wiring diagram - equivalent to
the one already posted for the US plug. PRINT BOTH:

http://www.tridenttrailers.com/trailer-wiring-diagram.htm

As has been mentioned, the problem is that the US 7-wire plug gangs
together right turn and right brake, left turn and left brake while
the European system has separate turn and brake lights. This is true
even if your car/truck/RV has the European tail lights - unless you
run your own wiring direct from the lights. The common solution is to
wire up the turn signals but not the brake (which on the US plug is
used to control electric brakes on some trailers, not for lighting),
then switch the brake and turn leads in the trailer light housing at
the rear of the trailer. Some people have gotten away with switching
the left and right trailer light lenses instead of the leads, but this
may not fit, depending on the specific trailer light modules. If you
don't switch the wires/lenses your turn/brake lights will be yellow,
which can upset some local authorities. If you choose to run this way
to get home don't ride the brakes and call attention to yourself.
Another possible solution is to get some red transparent plastic to
put in the trailer lens to make it more red though I have not tried
this.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FEMALE FOR THE US PLUG OR YOU WILL BE S.O.L. AT
THE PORT AS THE US AND EUROPEAN PLUGS ARE PHYSICALLY DIFFERENT.

Best of luck,

9B

[[email protected]]

On Dec 1, 5:54*am, "HL Falbaum" > wrote:
> "John Bojack" > wrote in message
>
> ...> Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
> > can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights
> > working correctly? * Anyone with a success story ?
>
> > Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle..
>
> > Thanks!
>
> > J4
>
> Maybe--but mine wasn't.
>
> I had the wiring digram from the Cobra (Spindlebarger) website, expecting to
> make a Euro-to-7 blade RV pigtail.
>
> The trailer came with a 7 Blade RV connector, and everything checked out
> except that that the turn signals were reversed! (i.e. left turn on car --->
> right turn on trailer) Customs security encouraged us to vacate the premises
> ASAP--So I pulled into the nearest parking lot outside the gate and fixed
> it--about a 2 minute job.
>
> Hartley Falbaum USA "KF"

Oh, yes. Also remember to keep track of whether you are looking into/
out of a male versus female plug - particularly if you wire based on
positions around a clock on the diagram. If you stick to the numbers
on the plug itself you should be fine though the print can be small
and hard to read as it is usually molded into the plug itself. It can
be useful to have a flashlight, magnifying glass and of course your R
and L shoes on.

Good luck.

9B

[BB]

I think the best solution is to get the wiring diagram from the
spindelberger website, buy a female European connector from your
favorite glider vendor, and wire it up from the lights with separate
amber turn signals and red brake signals. It's a better system, and
means you don't modify your trailer, plus then you can come get me
from a field. This will be plug and play when you get to the port. The
Euro plug has spade connectors, so if you screw up it's easy to fix.
If your car is already wired, you just have to fish out the turn
signals. Most new cars come with a tailer harness plug with all seven
wires (and more) deep in there somewhere, so then you just call the
dealer and get the trailer wire plug.

John Cochrane

[Tuno]

When my dad and I picked up my new Cobra trailer in March we were
prepared for everything, and that's what we got. The trailer's wiring
did not even match the factory's diagram. My dad (who is a retired
electrical engineer) could not figure out how it ever worked in
Germany.

Take a complete set of tools and spare widgets.

~ted/2NO

[[email protected]]

On Dec 1, 10:58*am, BB > wrote:
> I think the best solution is to get the wiring diagram from the
> spindelberger website, buy a female European connector from your
> favorite glider vendor, and wire it up from the lights with separate
> amber turn signals and red brake signals. It's a better system, and
> means you don't modify your trailer, plus then you can come get me
> from a field. This will be plug and play when you get to the port. The
> Euro plug has spade connectors, so if you screw up it's easy to fix.
> If your car is already wired, you just have to fish out the turn
> signals. Most new cars come with a tailer harness plug with all seven
> wires (and more) deep in there somewhere, so then you just call the
> dealer and get the trailer wire plug.
>
> John Cochrane

You can only do this if your vehicle has amber turn signals separate
from the brake lights. Check your vehicle.

Of course no matter what you do there will always be some turn/brake
light incompatibility between those who made their trailer US-
compliant and those who were able to make their tow vehicle Euro-
compliant. That makes for lots of fun at contests for the crew-less
set. I used to run full Euro wiring, including the plug. Now I use a
use 7-pin US plug and Euro wiring so at least someone can get a half-
workable solution if they have to tow my trailer with a US-standard
vehicle. If you ever fly crew-less it also makes sense to have some
converter pigtails to the US 4-pin plug and even the Euro plug if you
are totally anal.

9B

[jcarlyle]

A word of warning - before you start tying trailer lights into your
car's brake/running/turn signal circuit, make sure your vehicle
doesn't have a computer connected to the lighting circuit. A clue of
the use of a computer is that you get a message on the dash when a
brake/running/turn signal light is out. If such a computer is being
used, you can blow it out if you draw too many amps.

Here's a link to a previous RAS discussion on trailer light wiring
that relates to the current topic: http://tinyurl.com/6kf9ab

-John

[Gary Emerson]

Back in 2002 I sent the kind folks at Cobra a note explaining that for
something like $30 in parts they could make any trailer headed for the
US plug and play.

Simply plug in an adapter to convert "euro" to the typical "flat four"
connector and flip a single switch at the back of the trailer. It only
would take 60 seconds at the port for the new owner to be driving away
and the lights would work. I suggested they just add $200 to each
trailer as "standard" and no one would ever bring up this subject again.

[ContestID67]

You can generally buy a what-ever-you-have-on-your-car to a what-ever-
you-have-on-your -trailer adapter at trailer stores. At least from
the car to a four-flat system.

A few suggestions if you rewire.

1) Go to a 4-flat system as that seems to be the most (least?) common
denominator, at least here in the US.
2) Go to LED lighting as they don't have nearly the corrosion issues
that incadescent lighting does.
3) Slather Dow Corning #4 dielectric grease on external connectors and
light bulb sockets to prevent corrosion and keep out water.
4) Use crimp connections instead of wire nuts or solder.

My $0.02.

Good luck, John

[JS]

The glider isn't always plug-and-play, so we shouldn't expect the
trailer to be either!
Starting with a tow vehicle that has tail lighting of the modern
international standard, not the 1950s 4-wire system illegal in most of
the world, makes the job easier. US auto manufacturers only stay with
the ancient way because it involves less wire. Intentionally having
only one working brake light while turning is a strange concept.
Then decide which "large connector" you'd like on both. The US 7-pin
is quite common, but ones installed at the dealer seem to get wired as
a 4-wire system and most are plastic. I use the 6-pin round "redondo
de 6 polos", which has a metal chassis but unfortunately comes without
the 6 chickens.
With the extra pin(s) you can hook up reversing lights or interior
lights.
Build adapters to and from everything you can imagine, then perhaps
add adapters to bare ends, spade connectors or alligator clips, and a
roll of electrical tape to your kit. Keep the appropriate set in the
tow vehicle and the other set in the trailer.
If you make the adapter from your vehicle to European round,
electrically it'll be plug and play at the docks.
As mentioned before, LED lights are the way to go. Couldn't find
them in the US due to the abundance of stone age trailer lighting. The
most convenient place I found red/amber LED lights was ebay in
Australia. The same LED lights are available at many parts suppliers
there, but they may not ship overseas. The square ones I have are a
couple of mm smaller than the round hole in a Cobra trailer, so some
home made parts are needed to cover the edge of the holes up. An
example of the lights and cost:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2-x-LED-STOP-TAIL-INDICATOR-LIGHTS-NUMBER-PLATE-LIGHT_W0QQitemZ250330387925QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_C ar_Parts_Accessories?hash=item250330387925&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
Of course you can find "buy now" ones too.
Jim

[Uri]

On Dec 3, 8:15*am, JS > wrote:
> The glider isn't always plug-and-play, so we shouldn't expect the
> trailer to be either!
> * Starting with a tow vehicle that has tail lighting of the modern
> international standard, not the 1950s 4-wire system illegal in most of
> the world, makes the job easier. US auto manufacturers only stay with
> the ancient way because it involves less wire. Intentionally having
> only one working brake light while turning is a strange concept.
> * Then decide which "large connector" you'd like on both. The US 7-pin
> is quite common, but ones installed at the dealer seem to get wired as
> a 4-wire system and most are plastic. I use the 6-pin round "redondo
> de 6 polos", which has a metal chassis but unfortunately comes without
> the 6 chickens.


It's "POLOS", nor "POLLOS" ... viva la diferencia!
Uri

[Dan Silent[_2_]]

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE..........
TELL US IT WAS REAL plug and play....................
It would be nice to learn it functioned properly....
after all this is the year 2008 ano domini
man was on moon, long ago.

else;
try plug and pray, before touching anything



At 21:57 01 December 2008, Gary Emerson wrote:
>Back in 2002 I sent the kind folks at Cobra a note explaining that for
>something like $30 in parts they could make any trailer headed for the
>US plug and play.
>
>Simply plug in an adapter to convert "euro" to the typical "flat
four"
>connector and flip a single switch at the back of the trailer. It only
>would take 60 seconds at the port for the new owner to be driving away
>and the lights would work. I suggested they just add $200 to each
>trailer as "standard" and no one would ever bring up this subject
again.
>

[Tim Mara[_2_]]

there are diagrams showing how to convert the European wiring to suite US
vehicles on my website "useful info page" and on my links to cobra trailers.
(From memory.....double check this)
actually converting the wiring is quite simple....the US 4 pin (flat plug)
wires are White, Brown Yellow and Green, the European trailer plug has all
these colors plus extra's for the separate amber and red lights.....connect
all of these 4 colors to the US connector, add the black wire from the
trailer to the brown wire, disregard the rest.....remove the tail light
lenses and disconnect the top bulb wire and connect it to the bottom bulb
(dual function bulb) leaving the top bulb disconnected and the original wire
from the bottom stop/turn bulb disconnected and you should have running
lights,side markers lights and stop and turn signal lights from the lower
bulbs.
again....double check this but I think this is going to work on almost any
European trailer with these separate amber and red tail lights..
also....even if you have a US vehicle that has separate amber and red tail
lights (most newer ones do today) the trailer wiring is set up for 99.999%
of the trailers in the USA that have only combination stop/turn signals!
And though some might want to put European trailer connectors on their tow
vehicles this is a really bad idea and something that we tried back in the
1970's to discourage since sometime you may need to have someone pull your
trailer to come get you out of a field and unless we all use a standard 4
pin plug there is little chance that you and you pal have the same connector
set ups.
tim

Please visit the Wings & Wheels website at www.wingsandwheels.com

"John Bojack" > wrote in message
...
> Picking up a new Cobra trailer at the port on Tuesday......wondering if I
> can expect just to plug it into my SUV motorhome and have the lights
> working correctly? Anyone with a success story ?
>
> Trailer and SUV are both fitted witht the new large plug and receptacle.
>
> Thanks!
>
> J4
>