View Full Version : piston connecting rod bolt replacement
Dick
October 5th 03, 09:47 PM
Although finally successful at getting connecting rod pins pressed out with
our chapter's hydraulic press, I don't see how to "rig/jig" to drive out the
rod bolts.
Could someone provide some clarification? thanks.
Larry Smith
October 5th 03, 11:42 PM
"Dick" > wrote in message
om...
> Although finally successful at getting connecting rod pins pressed out
with
> our chapter's hydraulic press, I don't see how to "rig/jig" to drive out
the
> rod bolts.
>
> Could someone provide some clarification? thanks.
>
>
You should be able to remove piston pins and rod bolts with a suitable
drift, i. e., something soft like brass or delrin. Most piston pins will
push out with finger pressure, especially if they are still oily and you
apply a little heat from a hair dryer. Of course, you don't beat on piston
pins while the rod is still attached to the crank. You take the rod off
first, with piston attached, then drive out the pins by supporting the
piston on a piece of wood like a 4 by 4, with a big hole for the pin to go
down into.
WTH are you working on? If it's an aircraft engine, people with heavy
hammers should be kept away. Go by the book. Go buy the book.
Larry Smith
October 6th 03, 03:37 AM
"Dick" > wrote in message
om...
> Although finally successful at getting connecting rod pins pressed out
with
> our chapter's hydraulic press, I don't see how to "rig/jig" to drive out
the
> rod bolts.
>
> Could someone provide some clarification? thanks.
>
>
Hey, dude, I forgot to point out to you that a little heat from a hair dryer
or heat gun -- not much -- would have released those piston pins without
your having to use a hydraulic press. Aluminum (the piston) and steel (the
wrist pin) have differing rates of expansion when heated. With the least
bit of heat directed around the pins the aluminum would have let the pins go
in about 2 shakes of a sheep's tail.
A few light pecks on a brass drift with a machinist's hammer would have
finessed the rod bolts out. It's like sex, guy. You have to finesse it or
she won't respond.
clare @ snyder.on .ca
October 6th 03, 05:20 AM
On Sun, 5 Oct 2003 22:37:59 -0400, "Larry Smith"
> wrote:
>
>"Dick" > wrote in message
om...
>> Although finally successful at getting connecting rod pins pressed out
>with
>> our chapter's hydraulic press, I don't see how to "rig/jig" to drive out
>the
>> rod bolts.
>>
>> Could someone provide some clarification? thanks.
>>
>>
>
>Hey, dude, I forgot to point out to you that a little heat from a hair dryer
>or heat gun -- not much -- would have released those piston pins without
>your having to use a hydraulic press. Aluminum (the piston) and steel (the
>wrist pin) have differing rates of expansion when heated. With the least
>bit of heat directed around the pins the aluminum would have let the pins go
>in about 2 shakes of a sheep's tail.
UNLESS the pin is a press fit in the ROD and floats in the piston,
like on a CorvAir
>
>A few light pecks on a brass drift with a machinist's hammer would have
>finessed the rod bolts out. It's like sex, guy. You have to finesse it or
>she won't respond.
>
Corky Scott
October 6th 03, 02:56 PM
On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 04:20:18 GMT, clare @ snyder.on .ca wrote:
>On Sun, 5 Oct 2003 22:37:59 -0400, "Larry Smith"
> wrote:
>>Hey, dude, I forgot to point out to you that a little heat from a hair dryer
>>or heat gun -- not much -- would have released those piston pins without
>>your having to use a hydraulic press. Aluminum (the piston) and steel (the
>>wrist pin) have differing rates of expansion when heated. With the least
>>bit of heat directed around the pins the aluminum would have let the pins go
>>in about 2 shakes of a sheep's tail.
>
>UNLESS the pin is a press fit in the ROD and floats in the piston,
>like on a CorvAir
And the Ford V-6.
Corky Scott
Dick
October 7th 03, 02:34 PM
thanks, got pin out but still seeking thoughts on jigging connecting rod
bolt for removal..
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