Checklist for maintenance kit

[Tuno]

I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider,
and landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a
list for the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow
vehicle. I need to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer
between tow vehicles (I use a primary and two alternates).

Easy to start with:

Screwdriver(s)
Electrical tape
Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing
Pneumatic tubing and connectors
Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
Scissors
Multimeter
Fuses
Yaw string
Extra catheters
Lighter

What am I missing?

2NO (yeah ... software guy)

[Nyal Williams[_2_]]

Nut drivers/adjustable wrench/pliers
Spare wingtip skids
Footpump
Spare tube
Spare tire


At 01:52 18 January 2009, Tuno wrote:
>I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider,
>and landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a
>list for the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow
>vehicle. I need to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer
>between tow vehicles (I use a primary and two alternates).
>
>Easy to start with:
>
>Screwdriver(s)
>Electrical tape
>Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing
>Pneumatic tubing and connectors
>Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
>Scissors
>Multimeter
>Fuses
>Yaw string
>Extra catheters
>Lighter
>
>What am I missing?
>
>2NO (yeah ... software guy)
>

[Eric Greenwell]

Tuno wrote:

> I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider,
> and landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a
> list for the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow
> vehicle. I need to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer
> between tow vehicles (I use a primary and two alternates).
>
> Easy to start with:
>
> Screwdriver(s)
> Electrical tape
> Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing
> Pneumatic tubing and connectors
> Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
> Scissors
> Multimeter
> Fuses
> Yaw string
> Extra catheters
> Lighter
>
> What am I missing?

Why not just one box that stays in the trailer?

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

* Updated! "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* New Jan '08 - sections on Mode S, TPAS, ADS-B, Flarm, more

* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

[Bob Kuykendall]

Also include:

1/4" drive socket set with metric sockets 5mm through 13mm and SAE
sockets 1/4" through 1/2".

25 feet of .032" safety wire.

Small hacksaw, small fine-tooth file

[309]

You've left out:

Drill and bits
Soldering tool and solder
Trailer lighting repair materials
Volt Ohm Meter (esp w/continuity checker) -- oops, Tuno had it under
"multitester."
Tire/ballast bag repair kit (will duct tape suffice? probably not)
HAMMER.
SAE/metric combo wrenches (for us metal glider drivers)
Needle & Thread (for the FABRIC parts)
400 MPH Tape (REALLY Awesome stuff)
Bondo & hardener (two things that mix together to make awesome
stuff...)
Snake Bite Kit (I prefer the Glenlivet, my buddy prefers Chevas).

-Pete
#309

[Nyal Williams[_2_]]

Valve stem extension
Tail wheel items

At 05:18 18 January 2009, Bob Kuykendall wrote:
>Also include:
>
>1/4" drive socket set with metric sockets 5mm through 13mm and SAE
>sockets 1/4" through 1/2".
>
>25 feet of .032" safety wire.
>
>Small hacksaw, small fine-tooth file
>

[Darryl Ramm]

I'm with Eric, I'd leave anything glider related or spares for the
glider in the trailer. We both have the luxury of the 26E trailer
having a large area up front to carry stuff. What you might carry also
depends on what you are doing and how long you'll be away from base.
Personally I'll carry a log of stuff in the trailer and truck. My full
tool set and car spares stay in the car/truck. If I'm out in the great
basin etc. I'll carry things like a full set of belts, hoses and water
pump for the truck, many gallons of water, large capacity jumper
battery, jumper cables, tubeless tyre patch kit, spare oil,
transmission fluid, real factory service manual, heavy duty tow rope,
etc... and a roll of fencing wire. (fencing wire can fix about
anything).

Some other things you might want to consider for the glider are -

- I'm lazy and would carry a 12V compressor in my car/truck rather
than a foot pump. I carry one of the small ones designed for off-road
tire inflation, set up with an small 150PSI tank. Much more heavy
duty than the typical parts store junk. If needed I can charge the
tank and carry it to the glider.

- Tire pressure gauge (get a real quality needle or digital one not
the sliding indicator type).

- Entire spare tailwheel with tire already mounted

- Bicycle spare innertube (to fit wing wheel etc.)

- Bicycle innertube patch kit (for wing wheel, tail dolly wheel, etc.)

- Spare tire valves (spare innertubes may come with them, an extra
spare or two may not hurt)

- Tire valve removal tool

- Spare tire valve caps (replace any plastic crap ones with good
quality ones with a real o-ring seal.)

- Any tools required to adjust the wheel brake (try it to make sure
you have all the right size tools). I would really only bother for
cable brakes. Hydraulic brakes usually stay pretty well adjusted.

- 5 or 15 minute epoxy (I've found this awfully handy for misc
temporary repairs). I'd only use something like an unopened small
syringe type packaging and throw it away after opening so it does not
leak. Replace each year.

- A variety of multimeter leads, including alligator or fine clip on
leads that allow you to use the multimeter hands free while debugging
things.

- Specific adapter leads for multimeter - e.g. make up a set of leads
that allow the multimeter to be pluggged into various things e.g. if
your ship uses Anderson powerpoles then cut up a set of multimeter
cables and put PowerPole plugs on the ends. Carry similar cables or
adapters for any connectors e.g. Powerlet Plugs, various Molex
connects etc.

- Set of hex wrenches (if your glider uses hex headed bolts)

- Set of jewelers screwdrivers

- Bright flashlight (for looking inside things/working in the dark)

- Inspection mirror

- Telescopic magnetic parts picker (for when you drop things down
places they should not be - esp. for motorgliders))

- Claw style parts picker (snap-on make great ones)

- Spare fuse holder (esp for when you drop an end cap and can't find
it)

- Spare TE probe

- Assorted size nylon cable ties

- Spare electric switches

- Small rubber stoppers (suitable for blocking pneumatic instrument
lines).

- Small tip soldering iron and fine rosin core solder (only if stuff
has been soldered - check behind the panel).

- Might also consider a small butane powered iron if operating where
there really is no electricity.

- Long electrical extension cord

- Electrical power strip (I got into a habit of putting one of these
the trailer after seeing things like running out of power outlets for
battery chargers etc at some places.).

- A small flourescent (or LED ?) leadlight (for working at night/under
car etc.)

- 20' or so of wire in each of the different sizes used behind the
panel (hopefully Trefzel (oops that's another thread))

- Spare misc things like instrument mounting screws, etc. all the sort
of things you just collect after a while working on the glider a bit.

- Cloth tape and/or wide wing seal type tape - e.g. some gliders use
this to attach tail wheel fairings and other things. 1" wing tape may
work if needed, but I'd prefer the real cloth tape for some things.

- A can of WD-40

- Loctite 262

- A can of 3M adhesive cleaner

- Spare elestic cord (used for gear doors, engine bay doors, etc.)
and wire to make clips for (I also heatshrink the ends and/or dab with
epoxy to make sure they will not let go.). McMaster stocks a good
variety.

- Lengths of chain and shackles for tying the trailer down (esp. at
places like Minden or Parowan during Monsunal weather).

- Rolls of paper rag

- A tube of hand cleaner

- A small ground sheet or tarp to lie on (more useful for under car)

- Carry stuff in the car or trailer that can help get you out of being
bogged if venturing off-road in a retrieve. e.g. Folding metal blade
shovel, short planks of wood, nylon car tow rope, etc.

- Gettign off topic... Make sure your ground crew have AAA or similar
roadside assistance membership. Lots of navigation help, maps, GPS
etc. Carry lots of water and some survival gear. Consider giving them
a SPOT messenger in case they get stuck or lost.



Darryl

[Burt Compton - Marfa]

In my toolbox:

Spare set of Keys for all vehicles, trailer, hangar, airport gate,
etc.
Small bandages -- I usually nick myself fixing most anything. Gotta
slow down.
Tire plug kit for the trailer tires.

For straightening bent parts of the car or trailer such as fenders
damaged by road debris or off-road excursions, a long "wrecking bar".
Also good for killing rattlesnakes if unarmed.

Hmmm. This trailer's tongue weight is getting a bit heavy!

Burt
Marfa Gliders, west Texas

[Ed Winchester[_2_]]

Tuno wrote:
> I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider,
> and landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a
> list for the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow
> vehicle. I need to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer
> between tow vehicles (I use a primary and two alternates).
>
> Easy to start with:
>
> Screwdriver(s)
> Electrical tape
> Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing
> Pneumatic tubing and connectors
> Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
> Scissors
> Multimeter
> Fuses
> Yaw string
> Extra catheters
> Lighter
>
> What am I missing?
>
> 2NO (yeah ... software guy)
In addition to all the above, based on at least one incident at the
senior nationals a couple of years ago, bolt cutters and a padlock can
be quite useful.

Ed

[Roy Bourgeois[_2_]]

Somebody wrote:

Snake Bite Kit (I prefer the Glenlivet, my buddy prefers Chevas).

To steal a line from W.C.Fields:

"add snake"

Roy

[DRN]

On Jan 17, 8:52*pm, Tuno > wrote:
> I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider,
> and landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a
> list for the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow
> vehicle. I need to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer
> between tow vehicles (I use a primary and two alternates).
>
> Easy to start with:
>
> Screwdriver(s)
> Electrical tape
> Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing
> Pneumatic tubing and connectors
> Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
> Scissors
> Multimeter
> Fuses
> Yaw string
> Extra catheters
> Lighter
>
> What am I missing?
>
> 2NO (yeah ... software guy)

Stop screwing around.
Just bring a spare glider.
See ya, Dave

[[email protected]]

On Jan 17, 9:18*pm, Bob Kuykendall > wrote:
> Also include:
>
> 1/4" drive socket set with metric sockets 5mm through 13mm and SAE
> sockets 1/4" through 1/2".


Since you have a metric glider, I'd over-subscribe on the metric
wrenches. If you want to change a tailwheel tire, for instance, you
will need two sockets - one for the bolt end and one for the nut end.
I have always been fortunate to find someone to borrow from, but am
investing in a duplicate set.

I also carry enough electrical stuff to remake most of the connectors
in my panel.

Spare seat pan screws and washers - I don't know how those guys crawl
out of the cockpit, but they do

Spare yaw string

Rubbing and polishing compound and 400-1200 grit sandpaper

Battery-powered electric drill/screwdriver

Spare batteries for everything battery operated (EDS, Pulse/Ox, SPOT,
PDA - and glider of course). Spare glider battery connectors. Keep a
spare EDS battery in the cockpit too.

Instead of a tarp I use a cheap yoga mat (camping bed pads work too)
for taping under the wings in the dirt - it keeps the sharper stones
from sticking to my back.

110V power inverter - how else are you going to run the soldering iron
300 yards from the closest outlet? Radio Shack makes decent, compact
ones.


Ted, you going to post a Word doc with your summary?

Andy
We've wandered into spares and support equipment and away from tools

[Larry Goddard]

" > wrote in message
:

<<<SNIP>>>
> 110V power inverter - how else are you going to run the soldering iron
> 300 yards from the closest outlet? Radio Shack makes decent, compact
> ones.


I like the small propane powered soldering pencils. Work great. Even
with a extra small can of propane, it is much lighter, compact, and
versatile than an electric soldering iron and inverter.

Zero One

[TonyV[_2_]]

> I like the small propane powered soldering pencils. Work great. Even
> with a extra small can of propane, it is much lighter, compact, and
> versatile than an electric soldering iron and inverter.


Butane but, yes, I agree. I like it so much that I use if for
practically all of the light duty soldering that I do - partly because
it heats up so much faster than a standard electric soldering iron. And,
you can take it anywhere - it easily fits in your shirt pocket. See
http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/PICS/solder.jpg - the D cell battery
is for a size comparison.

Tony V.

[Larry Goddard]

"TonyV" > wrote in message
:

> > I like the small propane powered soldering pencils. Work great. Even
> > with a extra small can of propane, it is much lighter, compact, and
> > versatile than an electric soldering iron and inverter.
>
>
> Butane but, yes, I agree. I like it so much that I use if for
> practically all of the light duty soldering that I do - partly because
> it heats up so much faster than a standard electric soldering iron. And,
> you can take it anywhere - it easily fits in your shirt pocket. See
> http://home.comcast.net/~verhulst/PICS/solder.jpg - the D cell battery
> is for a size comparison.
>
> Tony V.

Yep, Butane. Works like a champ. You have a nice new one. I have been
using my old Radio Shack one for close to 20 years now. Like you,
unless I am in my shop, I prefer to use it.

Larry
Zero One

[Peter Wyld[_2_]]

At 19:52 18 January 2009, wrote:
>On Jan 17, 9:18=A0pm, Bob Kuykendall wrote:
>> Also include:
>>
>
>110V power inverter - how else are you going to run the soldering iron
>300 yards from the closest outlet? Radio Shack makes decent, compact
>ones.

far better to use a gas iron as suggested or a 12v solder iron which you
can run off the glider battery if necessary.
Using a 12-110 inverter for a solder iron is not ideal.

[309]

Somebody said "just leave it in the trailer."

I would agree, but I have a 1-26 with an OPEN trailer...those tools
would litter the highway...

Yes, I'd love an enclosed trailer. I'd love carbon wings, too.

Eventually I'll weld a semi-water tight toolbox to the trailer, have
it sandblasted and painted.

-Pete
#309

[[email protected]]

On Jan 23, 3:03*am, "Larry Goddard" > wrote:
> " > wrote in message
>
> :
>
> <<<SNIP>>>
>
> > 110V power inverter - how else are you going to run the soldering iron
> > 300 yards from the closest outlet? Radio Shack makes decent, compact
> > ones.
>
> I like the small propane powered soldering pencils. *Work great. *Even
> with a extra small can of propane, it is much lighter, compact, and
> versatile than an electric soldering iron and inverter.
>
> Zero One

I use the inverter for more than the soldering iron (and it's smaller
than two packs of cigarettes), but the propane iron is a cool
alternative.

[bagmaker]

I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider,
and landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a
list for the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow
vehicle. I need to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer
between tow vehicles (I use a primary and two alternates).

Easy to start with:

Screwdriver(s)
Electrical tape
Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing
Pneumatic tubing and connectors
Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
Scissors
Multimeter
Fuses
Yaw string
Extra catheters
Lighter

What am I missing?

2NO (yeah ... software guy)

and.....

1- Dollars, a hundred or so, stashed in a safe place within the toolbox,
2- Rum, whisky, a small bottle, wrapped in a
3- hand towel.

used in conjuction with other stuff mentioned, the above pretty much fixes everything

bagger

[Martin Gregorie[_4_]]

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 04:50:06 +0000, bagmaker wrote:

> -
> I've seen some excellent lists on this forum for the pilot, glider, and
> landout/emergency kit. I'm wondering if anyone has developed a list for
> the tools, parts & materials to always have in the tow vehicle. I need
> to assemble a single toolbox that I can transfer between tow vehicles (I
> use a primary and two alternates).
>
> Easy to start with:
>
> Screwdriver(s)
> Electrical tape
> Wire, wire cutter/crimper, heat shrink tubing Pneumatic tubing and
> connectors
> Gaffer tape (awesome stuff)
> Scissors
> Multimeter
> Fuses
> Yaw string
> Extra catheters
> Lighter
>
> What am I missing?
>
Small socket set to suit your glider
Vicegrips/Mole wrench
Needlenose pliers
Telescopic magnetic nut retriever
LED flashlight


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

[Eric Greenwell]

wrote:

>> Hi-Viz Jacket. When changing a wheel at night it makes you easier to see
>> (and hit).
>>
>> In some European countries (Spain?) this is mandatory equipment for a
>> car (in the boot/trunk does not count).
>
> Now required in most European contries if you get out of your car at
> the side of the road. In some places (Austria for example) you need
> them for all passengers too.

A couple years ago, driving the 200 miles from Parowan, Utah, to Ely,
Nevada at night, I had a flat tire on the trailer. No cell phone
service, and the only thing that tried to hit us was a crazed rabbit. A
Hi-Viz jacket would make your body easier to find if you chased that
rabbit into the desert (you can't always count on bumper finding you in
time).

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

* Updated! "Transponders in Sailplanes" http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
* New Jan '08 - sections on Mode S, TPAS, ADS-B, Flarm, more

* "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" at www.motorglider.org

[Darryl Ramm]

On Jan 26, 3:07*pm, Eric Greenwell > wrote:
> wrote:
> >> Hi-Viz Jacket. When changing a wheel at night it makes you easier to see
> >> (and hit).
>
> >> In some European countries (Spain?) this is mandatory equipment for a
> >> car (in the boot/trunk does not count).
>
> > Now required in most European contries if you get out of your car at
> > the side of the road. In some places (Austria for example) you need
> > them for all passengers too.
>
> A couple years ago, driving the 200 miles from Parowan, Utah, to Ely,
> Nevada at night, I had a flat tire on the trailer. No cell phone
> service, and the only thing that tried to hit us was a crazed rabbit. A
> Hi-Viz jacket would make your body easier to find if you chased that
> rabbit into the desert (you can't always count on bumper finding you in
> time).
>
> --
> Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
> * Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly
>
> * Updated! "Transponders in Sailplanes"http://tinyurl.com/y739x4
> * * * New Jan '08 - sections on Mode S, TPAS, ADS-B, Flarm, more
>
> * "A Guide to Self-launching Sailplane Operation" atwww.motorglider.org

You don't need to chase the rabbits on foot.... On a road trip from
Truckee to Parowan two years ago I helped out another glider pilot
who's car had broken down (we did a water pump replacement on the side
of the road). It ended up being 20 hours or so on the road and we got
into Parowan as the sun as coming up. For a couple of hours before
sunrise the roads out west of Parowan we had to deal with rabbits just
committing suicide by running in front of the car headlights. I lost
track of how many I hit. I was not going to swerve to try to miss
them, especially not hauling a heavy motorglider. By the time I
arrived at Parowan the front of my trailer was covered in a furry red
coating of bunny blood and guts.


Darryl

[ContestID67[_2_]]

All,

Great stuff. Thanks for all the suggestions.

asked the original author Tuno if he was going
to create a document with all this content. For the betterment of
mankind I decided to take the lists, clean them up, and post it to a
web site (with proper attributions of course). I thought it would be
a simple task but it took some time and effort. I hope you find it
useful. Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
you think would be valuable.

http://aviation.derosaweb.net/maintenance

Enjoy,
John DeRosa

[Big Wings]

I don't know about it being a maintenance kit - it looks more like a kit
to build a glider!

At 19:29 27 January 2009, ContestID67 wrote:
>All,
>
>Great stuff. Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
asked the original author Tuno if he was going
>to create a document with all this content. For the betterment of
>mankind I decided to take the lists, clean them up, and post it to a
>web site (with proper attributions of course). I thought it would be
>a simple task but it took some time and effort. I hope you find it
>useful. Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
>you think would be valuable.
>
>http://aviation.derosaweb.net/maintenance
>
>Enjoy,
>John DeRosa
>

[DRN]

On Jan 27, 2:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
> All,
>
> Great stuff. *Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
> asked the original author Tuno if he was going
> to create a document with all this content. *For the betterment of
> mankind I decided to take the lists, clean them up, and post it to a
> web site (with proper attributions of course). *I thought it would be
> a simple task but it took some time and effort. *I hope you find it
> useful. *Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
> you think would be valuable.
>
> http://aviation.derosaweb.net/maintenance
>
> Enjoy,
> John DeRosa

John ! You forgot some stuff !

tools and spices to clean and stew the rabbits (can't let them go to
waste)
replacement springs for the tow vehicle (they just broke hauling all
this junk)
spare glider

See ya, Dave

[Andy[_1_]]

On Jan 27, 12:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
> Enjoy,
> John DeRosa


If I need a tenth of that stuff I'll be going home in tears to file an
insurance claim!

That's from a person who managed to change the timing chain and
sprockets of a dead tow vehicle between landing one day and grid time
the next day. I didn't plan for it, but I still got it done thanks to
the local Checker store, the use of a club hanger, and the loan of the
few tools I didn't have with me. I did miss the July 4th fireworks
though.


Andy

[Darryl Ramm]

On Jan 27, 12:44*pm, DRN > wrote:
> On Jan 27, 2:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
>
>
>
> > All,
>
> > Great stuff. *Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
> > asked the original author Tuno if he was going
> > to create a document with all this content. *For the betterment of
> > mankind I decided to take the lists, clean them up, and post it to a
> > web site (with proper attributions of course). *I thought it would be
> > a simple task but it took some time and effort. *I hope you find it
> > useful. *Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
> > you think would be valuable.
>
> >http://aviation.derosaweb.net/maintenance
>
> > Enjoy,
> > John DeRosa
>
> John ! You forgot some stuff !
>
> tools and spices to clean and stew the rabbits (can't let them go to
> waste)
> replacement springs for the tow vehicle (they just broke hauling all
> this junk)
> spare glider
>
> See ya, Dave

This will show those motorglider critics that these things are good
for something...

You are hauling along that Antares 20E which is a great looking
electric stove power system. Convenient since starting a fire to cook
rabbits by the side of the road may be hazardous, especially in summer
around the great basin. Lets see 74 SAFT VL41M batteries. Each around
40Ah each at 3.6 nominal. All wired in series so you are in the ~250V
ballpark and could just use the element from a 250V electric stove
wired up to the Antares.

Lets assume a 1.5KW 240V stove element since it needs to be a
reasonable pot of stew as a nice glider pilot is going to cook some
rabbits for his friends as well. A reasonable large electric stove
element is 1.5kW, or for current 1.5kW/250V ~ 6 Amps @ 250V. Assume on
average the element is running at 1/3 power that's 2A @ 250V and very
low compared the 40Ah battery capacity so we'll ignore discharge rates
on battery capacity (and it's a Lithium anyhow where this is less of a
factor..) So our first guesstimate that an Antares 20E can make ~ 40Ah/
2A = 20 pots of rabbit strew before needing a recharge. Ha! Now I get
the 20E name.

Designing an efficient DC regulator for the stove may not be necessary
if the power management of the Antares has enough fine control (low
power settings) and could be used for this. You might want a control
interlock and marks for things like simmer settings on the throttle
lever. I hope amongst all that fancy Linux based control software we
could find something to use as a basic cooking timer.

For more accurate calculation of the battery capacity we would need to
model a "mission profile" of diferent power consumption while cooking
the rabbits. e.g. near full power for bronwning, then lower power
while stewing. It would also facter in controller inefficiency. While
it would be easy to add these to model I would not do so without the
ability to conduct experimental testing to validate the model. So if
you want to lend me an Antares 20E for a few months I *promise* all
I'll use it for is cooking rabbits.


Darryl

[Darryl Ramm]

On Jan 27, 5:53*pm, Darryl Ramm > wrote:
> On Jan 27, 12:44*pm, DRN > wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jan 27, 2:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
>
> > > All,
>
> > > Great stuff. *Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
> > > asked the original author Tuno if he was going
> > > to create a document with all this content. *For the betterment of
> > > mankind I decided to take the lists, clean them up, and post it to a
> > > web site (with proper attributions of course). *I thought it would be
> > > a simple task but it took some time and effort. *I hope you find it
> > > useful. *Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
> > > you think would be valuable.
>
> > >http://aviation.derosaweb.net/maintenance
>
> > > Enjoy,
> > > John DeRosa
>
> > John ! You forgot some stuff !
>
> > tools and spices to clean and stew the rabbits (can't let them go to
> > waste)
> > replacement springs for the tow vehicle (they just broke hauling all
> > this junk)
> > spare glider
>
> > See ya, Dave
>
> This will show those motorglider critics that these things are good
> for something...
>
> You are hauling along that Antares 20E which is a great looking
> electric stove power system. Convenient since starting a fire to cook
> rabbits by the side of the road may be hazardous, especially in summer
> around the great basin. Lets see 74 SAFT VL41M batteries. Each around
> 40Ah each at 3.6 nominal. *All wired in series so you are in the ~250V
> ballpark and could just use the element from a 250V electric stove
> wired up to the Antares.
>
> Lets assume a 1.5KW 240V stove element since it needs to be a
> reasonable pot of stew as a nice glider pilot is going to cook some
> rabbits for his friends as well. A reasonable large electric stove
> element is 1.5kW, or for current 1.5kW/250V ~ 6 Amps @ 250V. Assume on
> average the element is running at 1/3 power that's 2A @ 250V and very
> low compared the 40Ah battery capacity so we'll ignore discharge rates
> on battery capacity (and it's a Lithium anyhow where this is less of a
> factor..) So our first guesstimate that an Antares 20E can make ~ 40Ah/
> 2A = 20 pots of rabbit strew before needing a recharge. Ha! Now I get
> the 20E name.
>
> Designing an efficient DC regulator for the stove may not be necessary
> if the power management of the Antares has enough fine control (low
> power settings) and could be used for this. You might want a control
> interlock and marks for things like simmer settings on the throttle
> lever. I hope amongst all that fancy Linux based control software we
> could find something to use as a basic cooking timer.
>
> For more accurate calculation of the battery capacity we would need to
> model a "mission profile" of diferent power consumption while cooking
> the rabbits. e.g. near full power for bronwning, then lower power
> while stewing. It would also facter in controller inefficiency. While
> it would be easy to add these to model I would not do so without the
> ability to conduct experimental testing to validate the model. So if
> you want to lend me an Antares 20E for a few months I *promise* all
> I'll use it for is cooking rabbits.
>
> Darryl

Oh sorry to mention the nieve assumption assumes cooking time is 1
hour. That will only work for young rabbits. For tough old rabbits the
glider might get derated to a 10E or so.

:-)

Darryl

Darryl

[DRN]

On Jan 27, 8:56*pm, Darryl Ramm > wrote:
> On Jan 27, 5:53*pm, Darryl Ramm > wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jan 27, 12:44*pm, DRN > wrote:
>
> > > On Jan 27, 2:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
>
> > > > All,
>
> > > > Great stuff. *Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
> > > > asked the original author Tuno if he was going
> > > > to create a document with all this content. *For the betterment of
> > > > mankind I decided to take the lists, clean them up, and post it to a
> > > > web site (with proper attributions of course). *I thought it would be
> > > > a simple task but it took some time and effort. *I hope you find it
> > > > useful. *Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
> > > > you think would be valuable.
>
> > > >http://aviation.derosaweb.net/maintenance
>
> > > > Enjoy,
> > > > John DeRosa
>
> > > John ! You forgot some stuff !
>
> > > tools and spices to clean and stew the rabbits (can't let them go to
> > > waste)
> > > replacement springs for the tow vehicle (they just broke hauling all
> > > this junk)
> > > spare glider
>
> > > See ya, Dave
>
> > This will show those motorglider critics that these things are good
> > for something...
>
> > You are hauling along that Antares 20E which is a great looking
> > electric stove power system. Convenient since starting a fire to cook
> > rabbits by the side of the road may be hazardous, especially in summer
> > around the great basin. Lets see 74 SAFT VL41M batteries. Each around
> > 40Ah each at 3.6 nominal. *All wired in series so you are in the ~250V
> > ballpark and could just use the element from a 250V electric stove
> > wired up to the Antares.
>
> > Lets assume a 1.5KW 240V stove element since it needs to be a
> > reasonable pot of stew as a nice glider pilot is going to cook some
> > rabbits for his friends as well. A reasonable large electric stove
> > element is 1.5kW, or for current 1.5kW/250V ~ 6 Amps @ 250V. Assume on
> > average the element is running at 1/3 power that's 2A @ 250V and very
> > low compared the 40Ah battery capacity so we'll ignore discharge rates
> > on battery capacity (and it's a Lithium anyhow where this is less of a
> > factor..) So our first guesstimate that an Antares 20E can make ~ 40Ah/
> > 2A = 20 pots of rabbit strew before needing a recharge. Ha! Now I get
> > the 20E name.
>
> > Designing an efficient DC regulator for the stove may not be necessary
> > if the power management of the Antares has enough fine control (low
> > power settings) and could be used for this. You might want a control
> > interlock and marks for things like simmer settings on the throttle
> > lever. I hope amongst all that fancy Linux based control software we
> > could find something to use as a basic cooking timer.
>
> > For more accurate calculation of the battery capacity we would need to
> > model a "mission profile" of diferent power consumption while cooking
> > the rabbits. e.g. near full power for bronwning, then lower power
> > while stewing. It would also facter in controller inefficiency. While
> > it would be easy to add these to model I would not do so without the
> > ability to conduct experimental testing to validate the model. So if
> > you want to lend me an Antares 20E for a few months I *promise* all
> > I'll use it for is cooking rabbits.
>
> > Darryl
>
> Oh sorry to mention the nieve assumption assumes cooking time is 1
> hour. That will only work for young rabbits. For tough old rabbits the
> glider might get derated to a 10E or so.
>
> :-)
>
> Darryl
>
> Darryl

Now that you mention it, I'll discuss an electric-stove option
with the factory. Its probably the only option not available
already...

See ya, Dave "YO electric"

[DRN]

On Jan 27, 6:30*pm, Andy > wrote:
> On Jan 27, 12:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
>
> > Enjoy,
> > John DeRosa
>
> If I need a tenth of that stuff I'll be going home in tears to file an
> insurance claim!
>
> That's from a person who managed to change the timing chain and
> sprockets of a dead tow vehicle *between landing one day and grid time
> the next day. *I didn't plan for it, but I still got it done thanks to
> the local Checker store, the use of a club hanger, and the loan of the
> few tools I didn't have with me. *I did miss the July 4th fireworks
> though.
>
> Andy

But why did you need a tow vehicle during the contest ?
Gotta be a story there...
See ya, Dave

PS: I did one national contest without crew, car, or trailer.
No motor either !
And certainly no toolbox ;-)

[Tuno]

John,

I was going to wait until the thread was quiet for a while and then
grind it through the SNR distillerator, but I see you already did
that. Thank you!

I figure I'll end up with maybe 20% of it in my kit at most!

Next up: the landout kit.^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^HI didn't say that

2NO

[Andy[_1_]]

On Jan 27, 7:28*pm, DRN > wrote:

> But why did you need a tow vehicle during the contest ?
> Gotta be a story there...
> See ya, Dave

The tow vehicle was my Chevy Malibu (old yellow) crew car. I needed
it to haul water, to get back to the motel, and to go looking for
beers. It actaully died at the water faucet leaving my crew puzzled
when it cranked for ever but didn't start. She walked back to the
glider and said it sounded funny. The Chevy 305 uses a composite
sprocket on the camshaft and the teeth had parted company with the
gums. It only had about 200,000 miles on it at that time. I got rid of
it at 248,000 miles when the rebuilt transmission died. The engine
was still going strong and I sold the car to the tow truck driver that
came to haul it away!

Andy

[ContestID67[_2_]]

2NO,

Did you say LAND OUT KIT???? Got 'ya covered. See http://derosaweb.com/survival

- John

[ContestID67[_2_]]

On Jan 28, 11:51*am, ContestID67 > wrote:
> 2NO,
>
> Did you say LAND OUT KIT???? *Got 'ya covered. *Seehttp://derosaweb.com/survival
>
> - John

Sorry - the landout kit is at http://aviation.derosaweb.net/survival -
got too excited to type right!!

Suggestions are most welcome. I'm currently preparing an article on
the subject for "Soaring".

[Tuno]

I tawt I taw a putty tat!

[Tuno]

I DID, I *DID* tawt I taw a putty tat!

Thanks for the link John. With some downwind dashes on the calendar
this year, my crew thinks I should assemble this before the
maintenance kit.

2NO

[rlovinggood]

If you have some type of food in the survival package, where do you
store it between flights? Things like "energy bars" or any food not
in "armoured wraps", i.e. metal cans of some sort, could invite little
critters into your glider and/or trailer. So, I would suggest keeping
the survival kit, at least the food in the kit, away from the glider
and trailer when not flying.

I made the mistake of leaving some granola bars and peanut butter
crackers in both my glider and trailer and the mice were VERY happy.
Cleaning up wasn't cheap. I had all the gel coat stripped and the
glider refinished, just to get their caca off of my glider :-)

Ray Lovinggood
Carrboro, North Carolina, USA

[TonyV[_2_]]

Tuno wrote:
> I tawt I taw a putty tat!

Who said that ATC has no sense if humor? Look at the intersection names:

http://bobtilden.com/12B001.jpg

Tony V.

[Nyal Williams[_2_]]

They are building a new runway there; the fixes will be Ican, Has, and
Chessburger.

At 00:46 30 January 2009, TonyV wrote:
>Tuno wrote:
>> I tawt I taw a putty tat!
>
>Who said that ATC has no sense if humor? Look at the intersection names:
>
>http://bobtilden.com/12B001.jpg
>
>Tony V.
>

[TonyV[_2_]]

Nyal Williams wrote:
> They are building a new runway there; the fixes will be Ican, Has, and
> Chessburger.


Needs work :-). All intersection names have 5 letters.

Tony V. LS6-b "6N"

[Andy[_1_]]

On Jan 30, 5:54*am, TonyV > wrote:
> Nyal Williams wrote:
> > They are building a new runway there; the fixes will be Ican, Has, and
> > Chessburger.
>
> Needs work :-). All intersection names have 5 letters.
>
> Tony V. LS6-b "6N"

The burger and fries related waypoints are already used in the Phoenix
area. Also several baseball references and some characters from Star
Wars have been used. Maybe after Sunday a new procedure with have
some football references.

Andy

[vontresc]

On Jan 30, 9:57*am, Andy > wrote:
> On Jan 30, 5:54*am, TonyV > wrote:
>
> > Nyal Williams wrote:
> > > They are building a new runway there; the fixes will be Ican, Has, and
> > > Chessburger.
>
> > Needs work :-). All intersection names have 5 letters.
>
> > Tony V. LS6-b "6N"
>
> The burger and fries related waypoints are already used in the Phoenix
> area. *Also several baseball references and some characters from Star
> Wars have been used. *Maybe after Sunday a new procedure with have
> some football references.
>
> Andy

There's also a LIMBO intersection just south of LAX I believe.

I can just imagine the following clearance:
Nxxxxx Hold South of LIMBO at 5000 feet. Expect further Clearance the
day after tomorrow :-)

Pete

[Andy[_1_]]

On Jan 27, 12:29*pm, ContestID67 > wrote:
>*Please me know about any comments, updates or changes that
> you think would be valuable.


I don't see brake fluid and an eydropper on the list. 2NO will need
milspec fluid for the 29, others may need DOTx. We do check the level
before we put the wings on don't we?

Andy

[TonyV[_2_]]

> I can just imagine the following clearance:
> Nxxxxx Hold South of LIMBO at 5000 feet. Expect further Clearance the
> day after tomorrow :-)

This is one of those "heard on the air" stories:

ATC: United 122, cross dresr at or above 10,000.
<unknown>: Yeah, we have one of those at our company too.

Tony