Rust in tight places

[mhorowit]

I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.

Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
rust.
I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
the last 1/8".

There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
use
a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike

[stol]

On Feb 5, 5:39*am, mhorowit > wrote:
> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>
> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
> rust.
> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
> the last 1/8".
>
> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
> use
> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike

get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
any better results any other way.

Ben

[Charles Vincent]

stol wrote:
> On Feb 5, 5:39 am, mhorowit > wrote:
>> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>>
>> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
>> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
>> rust.
>> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
>> the last 1/8".
>>
>> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
>> use
>> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike
>
> get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
> any better results any other way.
>
> Ben


I think he meant that he was in a location i.e. hanger where
sandblasting was forbidden.

Charles

[stol]

On Feb 5, 4:48*pm, Charles Vincent > wrote:
> stol wrote:
> > On Feb 5, 5:39 am, mhorowit > wrote:
> >> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>
> >> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
> >> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
> >> rust.
> >> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
> >> the last 1/8".
>
> >> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
> >> use
> >> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike
>
> > get a finer grade of *blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
> > any better results any other way.
>
> > Ben
>
> I think he meant that he was in a location i.e. hanger where
> sandblasting was forbidden.
>
> Charles- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

That now does make sense but if the rust is slight there are small,
portable sandblasters that would work using the smallest compressors..

[Maxwell[_2_]]

"stol" > wrote in message
...
On Feb 5, 4:48 pm, Charles Vincent > wrote:
> stol wrote:
> > On Feb 5, 5:39 am, mhorowit > wrote:
> >> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>
> >> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
> >> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
> >> rust.
> >> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
> >> the last 1/8".
>
> >> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
> >> use
> >> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike
>
> > get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
> > any better results any other way.
>
> > Ben
>
> I think he meant that he was in a location i.e. hanger where
> sandblasting was forbidden.
>
> Charles- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

That now does make sense but if the rust is slight there are small,
portable sandblasters that would work using the smallest compressors..

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The question is rust converter chemicals in tight places.

[stol]

On Feb 5, 5:48*pm, "Maxwell" <#$$9#@%%%.^^^> wrote:
> "stol" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Feb 5, 4:48 pm, Charles Vincent > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > stol wrote:
> > > On Feb 5, 5:39 am, mhorowit > wrote:
> > >> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>
> > >> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
> > >> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
> > >> rust.
> > >> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
> > >> the last 1/8".
>
> > >> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
> > >> use
> > >> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike
>
> > > get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
> > > any better results any other way.
>
> > > Ben
>
> > I think he meant that he was in a location i.e. hanger where
> > sandblasting was forbidden.
>
> > Charles- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> That now does make sense but if the rust is slight there are small,
> portable sandblasters that would work using the smallest compressors..
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------*----------------
>
> The question is rust converter chemicals in tight places.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
assume that is a no brainer.

My bad.

over and out.

[Maxwell[_2_]]

"stol" > wrote in message
...

Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
assume that is a no brainer.

My bad.

over and out.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not all brands require a flush. Some convert surface rust to a hard dark
grey coating that seems to be an excellent sealer.

[Maxwell[_2_]]

"mhorowit" > wrote in message
...
> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>
> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
> rust.
> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
> the last 1/8".
>
> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
> use
> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike

Do you have a specific brand in mind?

I have never used one on 4130, and never heard of one used on aircraft, but
I have had good luck on automotive applications.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:43:08 -0800 (PST), stol >
wrote:

>On Feb 5, 5:39Â*am, mhorowit > wrote:
>> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>>
>> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
>> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
>> rust.
>> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
>> the last 1/8".
>>
>> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
>> use
>> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike
>
>get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
>any better results any other way.
>
>Ben
use a brass wire brush and Phosphoric acid - MetalPrep or Water
Softener Resin Cleaner - same stuff at about 1/4 the price.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:49:47 -0600, "Maxwell" <#$$9#@%%%.^^^> wrote:

>
>"stol" > wrote in message
...
>
>Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
>parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
>assume that is a no brainer.
>
>My bad.
>
>over and out.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Not all brands require a flush. Some convert surface rust to a hard dark
>grey coating that seems to be an excellent sealer.
>
>
Phosphoric Acid (Metal Prep) does just that - used as an "etch" in
auto-body work to give the primer some "tooth" as well as getting rid
of any minor surface "flask\h" rust. Makes Iron Phosphate.

[Maxwell[_2_]]

> wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:49:47 -0600, "Maxwell" <#$$9#@%%%.^^^> wrote:
>
>>
>>"stol" > wrote in message
...
>>
>>Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
>>parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
>>assume that is a no brainer.
>>
>>My bad.
>>
>>over and out.
>>
>>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>Not all brands require a flush. Some convert surface rust to a hard dark
>>grey coating that seems to be an excellent sealer.
>>
>>
> Phosphoric Acid (Metal Prep) does just that - used as an "etch" in
> auto-body work to give the primer some "tooth" as well as getting rid
> of any minor surface "flask\h" rust. Makes Iron Phosphate.

This is the product I used
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-47233/Detail
Treated some rust areas in a truck bed under a bed liner. When I sold the
truck ten years later, the treated areas were still free of corrosion.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 23:11:51 -0600, "Maxwell" <#$$9#@%%%.^^^> wrote:

>
> wrote in message
...
>> On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:49:47 -0600, "Maxwell" <#$$9#@%%%.^^^> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"stol" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>Rust converters not properly and completely flushed will corrode the
>>>parent metal.. I guess I should have mentioned that first but I did
>>>assume that is a no brainer.
>>>
>>>My bad.
>>>
>>>over and out.
>>>
>>>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>Not all brands require a flush. Some convert surface rust to a hard dark
>>>grey coating that seems to be an excellent sealer.
>>>
>>>
>> Phosphoric Acid (Metal Prep) does just that - used as an "etch" in
>> auto-body work to give the primer some "tooth" as well as getting rid
>> of any minor surface "flask\h" rust. Makes Iron Phosphate.
>
>This is the product I used
>http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-47233/Detail
>Treated some rust areas in a truck bed under a bed liner. When I sold the
>truck ten years later, the treated areas were still free of corrosion.
>
Not bad stuff but expensive (relatively) and not good for getting into
the real close stuff in welded clusters. Not sure which of it's
ingredients are the active rust converter.

[Michael Horowitz]

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 23:49:35 -0500, wrote:

>On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:43:08 -0800 (PST), stol >
>wrote:
>
>>On Feb 5, 5:39Â*am, mhorowit > wrote:
>>> I'm removing surface rust on a 4130 fuselage prior to priming.
>>>
>>> Assume I'm in a place where I can't use my sandblaster.
>>> I need to get into the tight places of a cluster to remove surface
>>> rust.
>>> I can get pretty deep in the cluster with emery cloth, but there is
>>> the last 1/8".
>>>
>>> There are rust converter chemicals on the market. Is it OK for me to
>>> use
>>> a rust converter prior to priming or am I fooling myself? - Mike
>>
>>get a finer grade of blasting media.. I can't see how you could get
>>any better results any other way.
>>
>>Ben
> use a brass wire brush and Phosphoric acid - MetalPrep or Water
>Softener Resin Cleaner - same stuff at about 1/4 the price.

Clare - I put a coating on part of my fuselage to get rid of rust
remaining after wirebrushing. How long should it take for this stuff
to dry? - MIke
\