Cory,

The ring gear was ruined because the starter gear stayed extended too
long after the engine started. Thus the starter gear broke off the ring
gear teeth.

This mod (bypass) is only for experimental aircraft usage only.
Basically the jumper wire retains residual power for a second or two
after the start switch is released, and cases the starter to stay
engaged. If the jumper wire is removed, then all power is removed
immediately from the starter when the ignition switch is released. I
don't remember the exact wiring mod, but it was easy to do. If you call
Skytec and tell them you have an experimental aircraft, they "might"
give you the diagram.

I learned of it when I took my Skytec to an automotive starter repair
shop, and they were dumbfounded that Skytec used the jumper wire the way
they do. They gave me the correct instructions on how it "should" be
wired. The Skytec is basically a Ford automotive starter, so any
automotive starter repair shop can probably help you. It's been several
years since I switched to the B&C, so I don't remember the details offhand.

VERY happy with the B&C!

BJ


wrote:

B. Jensen wrote:
: Cory,

: I have had 2 lightweight Skytec starters in the past. I had problems
: with both! (one completely ruined my ring gear $$$)
: I now use the B&C LW starter on my Lycoming IO-360, and it has been
: flawless. My opinion, get rid of the Skytec and get a B&C....from
: personal experience.

: BTW, if you want to get rid of the sticking shaft on the Skytec, you
: must get rid of the small jumper wire on the unit and rewire the ground.

: BJ

This information may have been nice to know when we decided to go with Skytec
last year when our old started broke. It's only a year old, so we'll stick with it
for awhile. It definately starts better and weighs less.

How did the starter hose your ring gear? Did it just never let go? I'm
interested in the "mod" (legal or otherwise... just info) for the sticking shaft. I
haven't looked at it recently to see how it's wired.

-Cory