"Scott" wrote in message
...
If I cut Lexan on a bandsaw, what is the best way to sand out the cut
marks
along the cut line? Sand paper? File? I want to make a new windshield
and
the cut edge will be the top of the windshield (open cockpit).


--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die



Scott.

I manufacture lexan windshields and acrylic canopies.
If you want to work lexan, and I don't think you do, none of the methods
mentioned by other guys will work. Lexan will not flame polish with a
torch.
Sanding lexan after sawing will take an ENORMOUS amount of effort to
get back to clear, if you can. Using a router giives you a better edge if
you
are tooled to do it. Remember to tape the plastic so the router base
doesn't
mar the plastic. When we cut one-offs, we bandsaw and disc sand with 36
grit
discs and finish with a sheet metal deburring tool. Really does a nice job,
but
the edge will not be clear.

If on the other hand you are talking about ACRYLIC/PLEXIGLASS, then most
of what you have read is applicable. Flame polishing adds huge residual
stresses
to the sheet. Filing in many cases causes chipping when the teeth are too
large.
Sanding gets you real close, but SCRAPING is the best. We prefer to use
routers
on our acrylic parts, but when making one-offs, we bandsaw, disc sand 36
grit,
usa sanding boards at 80 grit and go straight to scraping with a $5 craftics
tool
or piece of tool steel. There isn't a better way to get the edge finished.
We
have to re-sand the scraped edges at 2000 grit but it doesn't buy you that
much.

Call me at the shop if you need to know more.

Scott

SPEKTR PRODUCTS

817-573-2972