Airtex Interior Refurbishment - Day 51
			 
			 
			
		
		
		
		
Day 51 (Diversions) 
 
As part of the wall panel installation, there were several small 
subprojects that needed to be done. Some things were necessary to "clean 
up" previous sloppy or failing installations. Others were needed because 
the new walls were not made exactly like the old ones. Still other 
projects were necessary to spruce up some elements not strictly covered 
by the Airtex materials. 
 
An example of clean up work is the wiring added when the rear seat 
intercoms were installed and radios were installed and removed over the 
years. Rather than using the established wiring channels on the left 
side of the cockpit, someone simply stuffed the wiring between the wall 
panels and the wall supports on the right side of the plane. With the 
old thin cardboard walls and dark blue carpet, this was O.K. because it 
was not noticeable. With the new stiff walls and light gray carpet, this 
stuff needed to be better secured and arranged so it would lay flatter. 
 
An example of new vs. old came when I saw that the new pockets on the 
new walls were placed right where the ELT remote switch and one metal 
placard were mounted on the old walls. Relocation of this stuff may not 
be simple.  For example, you need to have enough slack wire to move the 
switch somewhere else. Also, you need to be sure you don't relocate 
things so that the mounting hardware will pierce a wiring bundle. When 
you do buy new hardware to attach things to the wall panels, remember 
that the new walls are thicker than the old ones. So, you need much 
longer screws to make it all the way through. 
 
Lastly, things that will look very badly out of place like the armrests 
need to be handled. The armrests turned out to be deceptively complex. 
Yes, the good folks at Airtex send you 2 pieces of upholstery and 
padding (vinyl, velour, or whatever matches your walls), however the 
rest of the part may not work for your plane. For example, the basic 
Piper armrest is out of some 70's car.  So it is a cheesy chrome plated 
plastic affair with "style" lines in it. To add to the cheap Disco look, 
mine had chrome pieces peeling off. Finally,  the icing on the cake is 
that they both have cute little chrome ashtrays in them. My solution to 
these problems was to cover the chrome with upholstery, remove the 
ashtrays, and extend the top pad to cover the ashtray hole. This 
required making 2 new pieces of ¼ inch plywood long enough to cover the 
entire top of the armrest. I installed a couple of "t-nuts" in the wood 
pieces to hold 2 new machine screws I would use in the old hole 
locations of the base armrest unit. That is the easy part. One 
difficulty is in covering the chrome. There are many complex surfaces 
and curves requiring lots of little cuts and snips to get it to look 
right. If you try to use vinyl or the Airtex base materials, I wish you 
luck. I have silver gray velour on that part of the walls and I cannot 
think of any other material you could pull this off with. 
 
To do the job, I brushed on contact cement to the chrome surfaces, up 
around and into the top surfaces, and around the back of the units where 
they will be mounted to the walls. You can make all the seams on the 
bottom so nothing "rough" shows. Again, velour is pretty forgiving 
because the nap covers small imperfections. You have to get the contact 
cement at just the right point in its drying stage for it to hold 
together while you are assembling it and still allowing some 
repositioning. The top pad is a challenge because the radius of all the 
curves is so small. The original Piper vinyl was very thin and 
stretchable, while modern materials are quite a bit more robust. At 
first I thought I would be able to just have the contact cement hold the 
vinyl in place. I quickly discovered I needed much more holding power. 
So, the electric stapler loaded with ¼ inch staples was called upon. In 
the end, it came out great, but it took about 2 hours to do the whole 
armrest job. I repositioned the ELT remote switch using new hardware. 
The original installer used mismatched screws into the cardboard after 
piercing the switch backplate in mostly the wrong places. I redrilled 
new holes and used #1 screws with 80 threads per inch and matching nuts. 
This is SMALL stuff. Get extras because you will drop more than one nut 
and NEVER find them! I originally intended on replacing the "pin and 
push-on clip" hardware for the metal placard, but I saw that my local 
ACE hardware had these clips. So, I just bought new ones and tried to 
reuse the pins. Well, I did not notice how short the pins were (did not 
take my own advice above about the panel thickness requiring longer 
hardware). So, it is back to the hardware store for more tiny screws. 
 
End of Day 51. 
 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		 
			
 
			
			
			
				 
            
			
			
            
            
                
			
			
		 
		
	
	
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